Meeting John Yablonski (long, retro)
Karl Baba
In the early 1980šs my best compromise between living and climbing in
Yosemite while avoiding poverty and parental heartbreak was to work for
Curry Company. For three years, I was the Night Housing Supervisor, in
charge of all the Curry employee housing areas between the hours of 5pm
and 1am.
In some ways, it was a dream job for a climber. I had a private tiny
cabin in Yosemite and was free to climb until 5pm every day. There was
a downside though. I was in charge of enforcing a plethora of rules and
keeping the company facilities free of exploitation by unauthorized
persons, particularly climbers.
I was a climber. Curry Company hated climbers. Resolving the dissonance
between these realities nurtured diplomacy in Karl and, eventually,
fostered tolerance within Curry Company.
Curry Companyšs strict grooming code made it easy to divine the
difference between the dorm residents and the Camp 4 residents. I
remember a funny cartoon on the wall of an employee bathroom. It showed
a guy with long hair and a crazy and confused look on his face. The
caption read "Before" Next to it was a drawing of the same crazy and
confused face but this time with short, clean cut hair. The caption
read "After" (employment) Years of the clean-cut company culture
inbreeding made it easy for long-term employees to adopt the attitude
that long hair or a beard were marks of dereliction.
The ex-marine president of the Company was chief among the those who
were pissed at climbers. After some random act of vandalism attributed
to climbers, he took a tour through Camp 4 to the boos and jeers of the
campers.
The behavior of the climbers sometimes didnšt help matters. Besides
snaking showers and drunken deli rudeness, some climbers would camp out
in the cafeteria and scarf leftover food, or shoplift from Curry
Stores.
Worst of all, climbers seeking comfort and love as part of the same
deal would seek out girlfriends among the Curry Employees. Many a young
damsel would be seduced into supporting the lifestyle of a "Park Bum"
or PB as it was abreviated. Now it wasnšt as if there were enough of
these beauties to go around. These were OUR women! Just like in
Alaska, in Yosemite, if youšre a women, the odds are good, but the
goods are odd!
As for me, I definitely had friends on both sides of the fence. I lived
across from Camp 4 and climber friends would come hang out with me. I
tried to encourage a bit of harmony by taking different managers
climbing. I started taking the Manager of Employee Housing climbing and
he got pretty good. We even climbed the grade 5 North Buttress of
Middle Cathedral in a day. One time I had numerous managers and
supervisors camped out on Yosemite Point and dragged them across the
Tyrolean Traverse to Lost Arrow. I hope I played some role in teaching
the Company that climbing wasnšt intimately linked with acts of
vandalism and dereliction.
At night, I tried to strike a reasonable balance between protecting the
companyšs facilities and allowing people to live their lives with
minimum harassment. I wouldnšt bug John Bachar about his Saxophone
playing or hanging out with his girlfriend in the dorms, but when a
world famous cranker emptied a fire extinguisher in the hallways, we
ran him off.
One night I got a call on the radio that there was a violent
disturbance at the Womenšs dorm. I headed my company truck straight
over there with a mix of excitement and trepidation. Responding to
unknown chaos revs the adrenaline, but also the humbling anticipation
that some drunk idiot might be inspired to break beer bottles over my
head. As a standard precaution in potentially violent situation, I
radioed the NPS to send a ranger to the scene as well.
When I arrived, I met a muscular guy of medium height at the foot of
the steps of the dorm. He looked battered. Next to him was a high-end
road bike that looked battered as well. He was reasonably calm. I
asked him what happened. He said his name was John Yablonski and that
he BEAT HIMSELF UP! Naturally, I wanted a further explanation. Yabo
said that his girlfriend lived in the dorm, she dumped him and was with
another guy at the moment. He was so upset that he kicked his own ass!
I thought he was pretty lucid for a guy who just whuuped himself, but
Yabo said he was a non-violent kind of guy who wouldnšt hurt anybody
but himself. He really did an impressive job of hitting himself. You
could tell he was headed for black and blue.
I quickly confirmed the story with Yabošs girlfriend (and her male
companion) and, since no more conflict seemed eminent, called off the
rangers before they arrived. It seemed like the last thing the
heartbroken Yabo needed was an encounter with the law.
I went back and met with Yabo again. He also managed to totally destroy
his $1000+ (1981 dollars!) road bike that he won in the "Survival of
the Fittest" TV contest. I told him to throw his bike in my truck and I
would give him a ride back to Camp 4. We talked about life, climbing,
and women. Before he got out of the truck he asked for $1 for a pack of
cigarettes. I gave it to him even though I am a cheap bastard and hate
smoking to boot. Somehow, my heart just told me it was the right thing
to do.
The next time I patrolled the womenšs dorm, I was surprised to find a
$1 bill lying on the ground at the very spot that I first met Yabo. It
stuck me at the time that I was being repaid by the Spirit of All
Things for my gift to Yabo.
In the course of years since then, I heard a number of amazing stories
of Yabošs larger than life existence. Apparently, he would go
free-soloing in fits of despair over relationships. He wouldnšt always
make it. He would always miraculously survive. One time he was caught
in the branches of a tree after falling off an 11c crack! Werner Braun
said "The Angels were watching over Yabo."
Sadly, tragically, Yabo eventually took his own life. He said if
natural forces wouldnšt take him, he would have do it himself. The
incident involved a woman and a relationship, but ultimately, it was
just Yabošs inner demons. I thought he was a great guy in many ways.
Unfortunately, we are all a bit nuts and those of us with an extra dose
of energy and passion can sometimes be even more nuts. May his Spirit
reach the Summit after a dramatic climb.
Bill Zaumen
<gu...@NOSPAMnewsguy.com> wrote:
> Meeting Yabo
<long story deleted>
The first time I talked to Yabo, he asked me what I was famous for.
I said, "well, I'm the guy, who once he gets up something, it becomes
a trade route." Everyone laughed and Yabo said, "sometimes I feel
that way too."
Once we were in a restaurant at Yosemite Lodge and Yabo walked by.
I asked him if he wanted some rolls that we had left over. There
was a flurry of motion and the rolls were suddenly nowhere in sight,
although Yabo was obviously chewing on something. A waitress
walked by and said, "It's the invasion of Yabo."
I'm sure lots of people have Yabo stories. He was such a unique
character that it would be worth recording them.
Bill
--
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Scott Grimes
"Karl Baba" <gu...@NOSPAMnewsguy.com> wrote in message
news:100420011912394631%gu...@NOSPAMnewsguy.com...
> Meeting Yabo
Collectively we were asked a couple of weeks ago why we read rec.climbing
and I gave some un-inspired answer about addiction.
Karl, thank you for sharing with us this moment in your life. I've come to
appreciate your contributions to this NG over the years and your latest is
one worth saving. Thank you.
Cheers,
SMG
Kelly Rich
> .. .. ..
> I'm sure lots of people have Yabo stories. He was such a unique
> character that it would be worth recording them.
Is it true that Yabo once tried to solo the Great Book, armed with
only 2 9 mils to rap? I heard the attempt ended when he flew out of
the book and landed on the ledge 2 pitches up.
And like many, I have a few Yabo stories. Some involve soloing
while stoned out of his mind, others involve acts of inhuman strength.
While we hung out on several occasions, he'd always call me "Hey you."
Like in "Hey you, got any more weed?"
I remember lynn hill in 1980, scolding Yabo for not having his shit
together. "Yabo, you can't bum chalk forever..." Then I remember
walking out of the showers at City Rock, Yabo sitting there with his
last girlfriend. "Dude, you look too clean to be a climber..." Fuck she
was pretty. Fuck, he was destroyed.
:- k
Inez Drixelius
<ke...@NoSpam.com> wrote:
Then I remember
> walking out of the showers at City Rock, Yabo sitting there with his
> last girlfriend. "Dude, you look too clean to be a climber..." Fuck she
> was pretty. Fuck, he was destroyed.
I remember that era too. City Rock: Yabo, fists in air, wild-eyed,
screaming "I sent it!!"
Pretty (young) girl telling me about the end afterwards. Horrid story!
I'll always take her word for it and I won't ever repeat what she told
me. May he rest in peace, that crazy demented guy.
I have seen some wild eyes in my day, but none as wild as his.
Inez
Lord Slime
"Inez Drixelius" <inez...@uclink4.berkeley.edu> wrote in message
news:inezdrex-170...@goodman5.lsa.berkeley.edu...
> In article <3ADCBCCA...@NoSPAMkarumba.com>, Kelly Rich
> <ke...@NoSpam.com> wrote:
>
> I have seen some wild eyes in my day, but none as wild as his.
I don't know about that. Condor's eyes are right up there. Coomer's
in the running too.
- Lord Slime
Justin Shields
server. Thanks.
--Justin
Bill Zaumen
<ke...@NoSpam.com> wrote:
> Bill Zaumen wrote:
>
> > .. .. ..
> > I'm sure lots of people have Yabo stories. He was such a unique
> > character that it would be worth recording them.
>
> Is it true that Yabo once tried to solo the Great Book, armed with
> only 2 9 mils to rap? I heard the attempt ended when he flew out of
> the book and landed on the ledge 2 pitches up.
I've heard stories of him popping out of a crack and putting his hands
back in while soloing hundreds of feet off the deck. He once fell
off short circuit, with about a 30 foot fall to the ground, and his
arm caught over a thin tree that bent and broke, lowering him gently
to the ground.
Once he tried to do the Triple Direct on El Cap in a day (or something
like that), and
was doing a 5.9 or easy 5.10 pitch just above Mammoth Terraces, still
in his sneakers, carrying a full rack and an extra rope. With
the added wieght, he got in a bit of trouble and his hands started
sliding out leading to a long fall with no protection in place,
where he was tracking in a a sharp flake in more or less of a swan
dive. It wasn't still pretty dark too---early start and all.
His belayer covered his eyes, as there was no possible way of catching
him before hitting the large ledge they were on, and by some miracle,
a loop of rope caught over a small flake, wedged, and stopped him.
This tale sounded way exaggerated, as I first heard it from other
climbers, but Yabo told me it was all true.
Karl Baba
<jshi...@NOSPAMjshields.cncdsl.com> wrote:
Here you go. it's not as fun as the Yabo solo stories, but what the hay!
Meeting Yabo
--
Guide Guy
http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/
Rex Pieper
>His belayer covered his eyes, as there was no possible way of catching
>him before hitting the large ledge they were on, and by some miracle,
>a loop of rope caught over a small flake, wedged, and stopped him.
>This tale sounded way exaggerated, as I first heard it from other
>climbers, but Yabo told me it was all true.
Didn't you know? Yabo could FLY! Seriously. The guy was fricken Peter
Pan. Funny though, I can't recall ever seeing him fall...even bouldering
at Stoney Point or Josh.
-Rex Pieper
remove ".XSPAM" from signature to reply
Inez Drixelius
<jbyr...@SPAMfriiPLEASE.com> wrote:
> "Inez Drixelius" <inez...@uclink4.berkeley.edu> wrote in message
> > I have seen some wild eyes in my day, but none as wild as his.
> I don't know about that. Condor's eyes are right up there. Coomer's
> in the running too.
Oh no you don't! Condor and Coomer's wild eyes sit in sockets of sanity.
There's a difference.
Inez
Justin Shields
<gu...@NOSPAMnewsguy.com> wrote:
>In article <jocqdts3mnvmakj2c...@4ax.com>, Justin Shields
><jshi...@NOSPAMjshields.cncdsl.com> wrote:
>
>> Can someone repost the original story? It didn't make it to my
>> server. Thanks.
>>
>> --Justin
>
>Here you go. it's not as fun as the Yabo solo stories, but what the hay!
>
Wow, great story Karl. Sounds like Yabo was a wild character. It's
always funner to hear about legends who were a bit rough around the
edges.
--Justin
Karl Baba
Peace
Karl
> Wow, great story Karl. Sounds like Yabo was a wild character. It's
> always funner to hear about legends who were a bit rough around the
> edges.
>
> --Justin
--
Guide Guy
http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/
Paul Davidson
another How do I Mark the Middle of the Rope
and Longest Thread stuff but a few threads above...
I'll take issue w/ but one point:
>The behavior of the climbers sometimes didnšt help matters. Besides
>snaking showers and drunken deli rudeness, some climbers would camp out
>in the cafeteria and scarf leftover food, or shoplift from Curry Stores.
Shoplifting, big no no, but food scarfing ? While it certainly disgusts the
touri, in the grand scheme of things does it harm anything ? Does it not
lead to a conservation ethic. It's the climber who's taking the risk but
sharing
saliva...
I've seen a number of homeless/travellers doing similar in restaurants
lately.
When we consider that in our land of the free we probably throw away more
food in a day than .... (?) It's a bunch at any rate.
So, Live on Yabo, I wouldn't be surprised if he weren't the original
scarfer.
- pkd
Chris Wegener
"Paul Davidson" <em...@sprintmail.com> wrote in message
news:aotD6.2982$042.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
><snip of a defense of scarfing>
> So, Live on Yabo, I wouldn't be surprised if he weren't the original
> scarfer.
>
Scarfing was going on in the Valley long before Yabo showed up. The one who
did the most to push the envelope and eventually force the Curry company to
do something about scarfing was Dale Bard. He pushed the envelope in terms
of what and where in the cafeteria he scarfed.
Dale's most outlandish antic was once when a touron put down his tray with
his breakfast and went to the washroom. Dale sat down and started eating.
Needless to say the touron was displeased when he returned to find Dale
happily wolfing down the touron's breakfast. After this and other similar
incidents the cafeteria staff was forced to crack down on the habit.
Chris
Rob Williams
Where I went to college (Reed College) scarfing (or scrounging) has a
long and hallowed tradition. In fact, chairs are arranged next to the
place where you dump off your trays for scroungers to sit and relax as
they ask:
"you gonna eat that?"
Rob
Tom Murphy
> Where I went to college (Reed College) scarfing (or scrounging) has a
> long and hallowed tradition. In fact, chairs are arranged next to the
> place where you dump off your trays for scroungers to sit and relax as
> they ask:
>
Some of my British friends call it "sweeping" as in mine sweeping, I
believe. They believe that an Statesian Denny's on a road trip is an
all-you-can-eat buffet. Certainly better than Little Chef.
Tom
Karl Baba
is no way to get in good with the restaraunt owners!
In article <aotD6.2982$042.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net>,
Paul Davidson <em...@sprintmail.com> wrote:
--
Guide Guy
http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/