2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
John
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?
Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.
I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.
Help?
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"
John
Boater
> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>> impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
>> it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
>> seconds by runniing without water.
>>
>> Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
>> Not all muffs do that.
>>
>> With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
>> the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
>
> Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
> through the flushing port.
>
> I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
> perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
> getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
> plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
> have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
> essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
> it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
> seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.
>
> Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
> muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.
>
> A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......
I would call the nearest competent servicing dealer, make an
appointment, bring the boat to the shop, and *watch* a qualified
mechanic winterize the engine.
Wait...I did that with my Yamaha F150.
John
wrote:
>On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
>>impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
>>it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
>>seconds by runniing without water.
>>
>>Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
>>Not all muffs do that.
>>
>>With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
>>the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
>
>Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
>through the flushing port.
>
>I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
>perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
>getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
>plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
>have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
>essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
>it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
>seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.
>
>Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
>muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.
>
>A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......
Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does*
come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose
adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again
today.
To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the
fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it.
John
I'm sure you would. But we're not alike.
>
>Wait...I did that with my Yamaha F150.
Good. I hope they did a good job.
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
John,
The first year had my new engine, I paid the dealer to winterize it. I
watched them and made notes. It is very easy, but you still want to
do it yourself, Dave Brown has an easy to understand web page.
http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-outboard.html
John
I've done everything Dave mentions in his guide, except the fogging part.
That is where I need some help. Dave's guide is good, but not specific
enough for my engine.
Today I'll try the muffs again.
Taking it to a dealer is an option. But, I'd rather learn to do it myself.
Besides, the dealer is closed until after New Years day.
Jim
If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you
can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the
water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent
premature stalling from the fogging operation.
John
Thanks Jim. I may try jacking the rpm up a bit. There is good pressure
coming out of each muff.
loogy...@gmail.com
> impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
> it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
> seconds by runniing without water.
>
> Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
> Not all muffs do that.
>
> With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
>
> - Show quoted text -
In a minute, there is probably enough residual water in the pump so
that it would be fine. I've started my Evinrude many, many times
without any water running to it. just wanted to test the battery, make
sure it fired, then off. After probably a hundred times of doing this,
plus running for many hours fishing, etc. I changed impellers. It was
very hard to tell the 3 year old one from the new.
loogy...@gmail.com
> Gene wrote:
> > On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, if it wasn't for google and your dealer, you wouldn't know
anything. They probably laugh..." Here comes that fat guy, probably
doesn't know how to get the sparkplug wire off."
loogy...@gmail.com
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yep, that's true!
Boater
> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
> <gene.b...@tranquilrefuge.net> wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>>
>>> impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
>>> it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
>>> seconds by runniing without water.
>>>
>>> Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
>>> Not all muffs do that.
>>>
>>> With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
>>> the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
>> Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
>> through the flushing port.
>
> think that what goes for one goes for both. I'm not even going to wear
> that all models of Yamaha cannont be run while on the hose attachment.
> My Yamaha absolutely can NOT be run like that without quickly trashing
> the water pump.
>
>> I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
>> perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
>> getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
>> plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
>> have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
>> essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
>> it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
>> seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.
>>
>> Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
>> muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.
>>
>
> needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem.
>
>> A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......
>
> be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has
> been damaged and will fail without further warning.
>
Hey! It's only about $11,000 to replace the engine. What the hell.
Boater
> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:10:55 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
>> <gene.b...@tranquilrefuge.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
> users manual and the dealer's manual.....
I would call a competent dealer's competent service department.
John
wrote:
>On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:10:55 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
>><gene.b...@tranquilrefuge.net> wrote:
>>
>>>On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
Which is what I'm trying to do. The user's manual leaves some questions.
loogy...@gmail.com
> Gene wrote:
> > On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:10:55 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
> >> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
> >> <gene.boat...@tranquilrefuge.net> wrote:
>
> >>> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
Are they thoroughly vetted to make sure they meet your strict
standards? Besides, I know that because you aren't capable that you
don't think anybody should, but some people actually enjoy working on
their own things, and enjoy learning how to do it properly.
Billgran
"John" <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:53gnk4904hh7124be...@4ax.com...
> >
>
> I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
> attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed.
>
>
If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's
powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners
manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run
the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers
around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs.
Bill Grannis
service manager
sa...@dog.com
wrote:
When some people say they "talked to the dealer", they mean they
talked to someone at the dealership. That could be a sales person,
yard boy, receptionist, retired father of the owner with a lot of free
time now that he's not allowed to drive any more, etc. It doesn't
mean he talked to anyone who REALLY knows what he's talking about.
John
Thanks Bill. That's what the dealer said, as long as I didn't go above idle
it was ok. I think I need to find me a new dealer.
--
Salmonbait
Richard Casady
wrote:
>> If you only feed the water from one side, it will not get where it
>> needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem.
>>
>>> A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......
>>
>> Amen. If you have run one dry for more than a few seconds, it needs to
>> be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has
>> been damaged and will fail without further warning.
>>
>
>
>Hey! It's only about $11,000 to replace the engine. What the hell.
I just replaced the engine on a Lincoln Navigator for half that. Four
cams, 32 valve 330 CID, 300 horse. Same specific output as a 57 chevy.
Casady
Eisboch
"Richard Casady" <richar...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:49643d7f....@news.east.earthlink.net...
>
> I just replaced the engine on a Lincoln Navigator for half that. Four
> cams, 32 valve 330 CID, 300 horse. Same specific output as a 57 chevy.
>
> Casady
Speaking of Navigators, my son-in-law's just died. It used to be my wife's
and she gave it to him when she bought a new one.
Only 75k miles and the head gasket let go on one side of the engine, causing
some other damage in three cylinders. That's not a lot of miles to have
that kind of a failure.
He was quoted a minimum of $3k to fix it. Traded it instead for a PU
truck.
Eisboch
Dave Brown
> If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's
> powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners
> manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run
> the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers
> around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs.
Bill! How the hell are ya?
--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/
D K
I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut
it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones.
Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen saltwater yet.
D K
> (admittedly, old tech) the intake was just an open galley... if there
> was enough supply volume to prevent cavitation... it seemed no foul.
>
> I have to believe that flushing scheme worked, since they served me
> for 18 years and went North of the border to a new owner to do a
> second tour of duty......
You would think so but it just doesn't work as well. My smaller
outboards and I/O had no trouble with the single sided muff.
Salmonbait
wrote:
I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with
water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to
put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the
engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know
something's dicked up with the enging.
--
Salmonbait
Jim
Salmonbait
That's what I thought, but if I hook the hose up to the hose attachment on
the engine, water then comes out of the pee hole.
It's very confusing.
--
Salmonbait
Boater
Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can.
I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought
that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given
you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that
Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly
fog the engine.
Jim
This might be a stupid question but I gotta ask. When you have the muffs
on and you are looking for water from the pee hole, is the engine running?
Salmonbait
You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The
dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of
Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him.
The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the
name from Yamaha.
Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a
deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the
engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I
could take some pictures if you desire.
Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's
time to quit?
--
Salmonbait
Boater
Oh...I thought maybe you were going to lift the engine off the boat and
mount it so its lower unit went into a garbage can, like I used to do
back in the 50's with my 1-1/2 hp Eninrude outboard and later with my
Ducktwin.
I'm "conservative" when it comes to expensive toys. I wouldn't mess
around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched
one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150.
The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of
the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too.
"First...do no harm."
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
>
> Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can.
>
> I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought
> that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given
> you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that
> Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly
> fog the engine.
Here really should have purchased a Parker from Tri-State, now that is a
real boat.
Salmonbait
Nothing stupid about that, given my overall lack of outboard maintenance
skills as demonstrated hereon!
Yes.
That's what got me worried. Earlier someone said to get the rpm up a
little. Yesterday I tried it at about 1500 rpm for a few seconds, still
nothing from the pee hole.
--
Salmonbait
Salmonbait
Don't know what gave you that idea. I had mentioned an engine hoist.
>I'm "conservative" when it comes to expensive toys. I wouldn't mess
>around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched
>one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150.
>The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of
>the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too.
>
>"First...do no harm."
When I got an MGB GT back in 1976, I had a choice - be conservative, or
learn. I've always figured that if I break something trying to fix it, then
I'll have a mechanic fix it. Who knows, I may end up taking it to
Tri-State, but not until I've tried.
BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
How did this conversation degrade from discussing a Yamaha F150 to
suddenly a conversation on Kidney Stones? Damn those things hurt.
Salmonbait
If Tri-State had sold Key Wests, then they'd be my dealer. I don't have the
urge for a Parker any more. At one time I thought the 25'er that Harry had
would be a great boat to own. Now I'm much happier with a smaller boat that
I can take anywhere easily.
--
Salmonbait
Salmonbait
The Yamaha book calls said hole the 'pilot hole'. Why? I don't know.
Yesterday Gene, Bill, or someone called it the 'pee hole'. You're right,
mine must have a gall stone.
--
Salmonbait
Boater
The problem with these damned modern outboards is that the "breakage"
can be very, very expensive to fix.
Salmonbait
True, but it's only money. I'd rather be giving it to someone who's working
than someone who's not. So far I've been lucky. I never took the MG to the
shop for something I screwed up. My Moto Guzzi has been in the shop only
one time in the eighteen years I've owned it. And that was 'cause I was too
lazy to change a seal.
I may go up to Tri-State today, if they're open. I think I'll buy a service
manual. This operator's manual sucks.
--
Salmonbait
Boater
Call first. The service department is closed on Sundays, but the parts
department is open. They might have to order the shop manual for you; it
is unlikely they or any other dealer stocks all the various shop
manuals. They'll need your motor serial number to order the right manual.
Salmonbait
loogy...@gmail.com
And there is no other boat worth owning.
Boater
You think it was accidental? I ask because you are repeating yourself.
What conclusions might you draw from this?
loogy...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
> >> Billgran wrote:
> >>> "John" <salmonb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Of course! If the dealer isn't one that you use, they have no
experience, give bad advice, and are idiots. The only dealers worth
going to are the ones that you use.
Salmonbait
I wouldn't mention my conclusions, because I think you'd find them
personally insulting. I'm hoping you'll be man enough to prove my
conclusions wrong.
--
Salmonbait
Boater
> On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 09:26:59 -0500, Boater <dontb...@mypacks.net> wrote:
>
>> Salmonbait wrote:
>>> On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 09:19:46 -0500, Boater <dontb...@mypacks.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal
>>>>> insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit?
>>> --
>>>
>>> Salmonbait
>>
>> You think it was accidental? I ask because you are repeating yourself.
>> What conclusions might you draw from this?
>
> I wouldn't mention my conclusions, because I think you'd find them
> personally insulting. I'm hoping you'll be man enough to prove my
> conclusions wrong.
> --
>
> Salmonbait
I'll be delighted to watch your progress in bringing the group around to
your way of thinking. If I notice any *positive* changes of significance
in the behaviors of those I haven't bozo-binned, I will gladly extend
them the same courtesy. This, of course, is precisely the "deal" I
offered previously.
No offense, but I have the feeling *you* think you have an ability to
cajole or negotiate me over to your position. I've told you many times I
will treat others exactly as they treat me, no more, no less.
Now, perhaps you want to work on the others for a few weeks.
Salmonbait
Harry, have you forgotten already the post you made not two hours ago?
*******************************
38 ¶ Ye have heard that it hath been said, An eye for an eye, and a
tooth for a tooth: Ex. 21.24 · Lev. 24.20 · Deut. 19.21
39 but I say unto you, That ye resist not evil: but whosoever shall
smite thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.
**************************************
You hold this up as a standard, yet make a statement like, "I
will treat others exactly as they treat me, no more, no less."
No offense, but don't you see just a little hypocrisy in that?
--
Salmonbait
Boater
Jesus is your saviour, not mine.
BAR
It depends upon who you ask.
Boater
Whatever that means.
Salmonbait
Which means what? Does your comment mean that you disagree with your quote?
If so, then why post it?
--
Salmonbait
sa...@dog.com
wrote:
>On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K <inter...@gmailremove.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Billgran wrote:
>>> "John" <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:53gnk4904hh7124be...@4ax.com...
>>>
>>>> I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
>>>> attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's
>>> powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners
>>> manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run
>>> the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers
>>> around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs.
>>>
>>> Bill Grannis
>>> service manager
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut
>>it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones.
>> Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen saltwater yet.
>
>I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with
>water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to
>put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the
>engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know
>something's dicked up with the enging.
If you aren't getting any water out of the pee hole with waterUNDER
PRESSURE from the muffs, there is no need to try a garbage can. You
already have the answer.
BAR
Have you talked with a Jehovah's Witness lately?
Boater
I wonder if customer abuse is covered under the Yamaha warranty? :>)
sa...@dog.com
wrote:
>On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:13:45 -0500, Jim <mo...@rella.com> wrote:
>
>>Salmonbait wrote:
>>> On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K <inter...@gmailremove.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Billgran wrote:
>>>>> "John" <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:53gnk4904hh7124be...@4ax.com...
>>>>>
>>>>>> I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
>>>>>> attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's
>>>>> powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners
>>>>> manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run
>>>>> the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers
>>>>> around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Grannis
>>>>> service manager
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut
>>>> it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones.
>>>> Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen saltwater yet.
>>>
>>> I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with
>>> water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to
>>> put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the
>>> engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know
>>> something's dicked up with the enging.
>>> --
>>>
>>> Salmonbait
>>There might be something in the pee hole obstructing the flow.
>
>That's what I thought, but if I hook the hose up to the hose attachment on
>the engine, water then comes out of the pee hole.
>
>It's very confusing.
No it's not. If you get water from the pee hole when using the hose
attachment and not when supplying water UNDER PRESSURE from the mufs,
its because the hose attachment forces water into everything ABOVE the
bad water pump.
It's really hard to troubleshoot anything if you don't understand the
basics of how to troubleshoot a problem. You need a method. Then you
won't be confused or trying random things that just lead to more
confusion.
Boater
Only the occasional ones that show up at my front door, and only briefly.
Salmonbait
Highly doubtful. Nor would I expect it to be.
--
Salmonbait
Billgran
"Salmonbait" <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:h9fsk49kre6bvvr60...@4ax.com...
>
> I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with
> water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to
> put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the
> engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know
> something's dicked up with the enging.
Be sure that the water level in the bucket is at least 1" above the split
where the gearcase is bolted to the exhaust section.
Bill Grannis
service manager
D K
> Salmonbait wrote:
>> On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater <dontb...@mypacks.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Salmonbait wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K <inter...@gmailremove.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Billgran wrote:
>>>>>> "John" <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:53gnk4904hh7124be...@4ax.com...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
>>>>>>> attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the
>>>>>> motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person.
>>>>>> The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars
>>>>>> state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the
>>>>>> motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase,
>>>>>> preferably the dual hose feed style muffs.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill Grannis
>>>>>> service manager
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single
>>>>> doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better
>>>>> than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen
>>>>> saltwater yet.
>>>> water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm
>>>> going to
>>>> put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and
>>>> start the
>>>> engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know
>>>> something's dicked up with the enging.
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>
>>> Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big
>>> gargage can.
>>>
>>> I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you
>>> bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he
>>> has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have
>>> bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know
>>
>> You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The
>> dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of
>> Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him.
>>
>> The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got
>> the
>> name from Yamaha.
>> Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a
>> deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower
>> the
>> engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I
>> could take some pictures if you desire.
>>
>> time to quit?
>> --
>>
>> Salmonbait
>
>
> mount it so its lower unit went into a garbage can, like I used to do
> back in the 50's with my 1-1/2 hp Eninrude outboard and later with my
> Ducktwin.
>
> around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched
> one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150.
> The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of
> the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too.
>
> "First...do no harm."
>
WAFA defines himself - again.
Salmonbait
It came almost to the bottom of the anti-cavitation plate, above the
cooling water inlets. If I were on the muffs, it would only come as high as
the inlet. I don't understand why an increase over that is necessary.
--
Salmonbait
Jim
The water level must be above the impeller. When you are on muffs the
water is pushed up to the impeller. When you are in the tank the
inpeller must be submurged in water.
Salmonbait
Well, shit. Learn something new every day.
The water was almost up to the bottom of the anti-cavitation plate. A good,
healthy stream was coming out the pee hole. The engine ran normally, with
no overheating warnings or anything for about twenty minutes, to insure the
gas with the stabilizer got into the engine.
I guess we'll see in the spring. I went to the Yamaha site to buy a manual.
Couldn't find one for my year. They show only 2005 and earlier.
Bill, Dave, you guys sell service manuals for 2008 Yamaha F150's?
--
Salmonbait
Dave Brown
> I guess we'll see in the spring. I went to the Yamaha site to buy a manual.
> Couldn't find one for my year. They show only 2005 and earlier.
> Bill, Dave, you guys sell service manuals for 2008 Yamaha F150's?
That would be Bill - I have enough on my plate keeping up with
Johnson/Evinrude/Mercury.
Please do NOT buy a Clymer or similar after market manual.
--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd
http://brownsmarina.com/
Salmonbait
wrote:
>Salmonbait wrote:
>
>> I guess we'll see in the spring. I went to the Yamaha site to buy a manual.
>> Couldn't find one for my year. They show only 2005 and earlier.
>> Bill, Dave, you guys sell service manuals for 2008 Yamaha F150's?
>
>That would be Bill - I have enough on my plate keeping up with
>Johnson/Evinrude/Mercury.
>
>Please do NOT buy a Clymer or similar after market manual.
OK. Thanks for the come back.
--
Salmonbait
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
SB,
If water was coming from the pilot hole (I refuse to call it a pee
hole), it was above the impeller.
loogy...@gmail.com
<lant...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Salmonbait wrote:
> > On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 21:48:53 -0500, Jim <mo...@rella.com> wrote:
>
> >> Salmonbait wrote:
>
> >>>> "Salmonbait" <salmonb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Oh, come on! Now you're just making perfect sense. You need to
interject a bunch of third grade like insults and vulgarities. Some
think that it makes you believable even if you don't know anything.
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
Let me try to do better. mmmmmm let's see...... OK :
"JohnH you idiot, you are an embarrassment to pee holes around the
world..... " ;)
Hows that?
hk
Pilot hole? What's the etymology?
-----------------
www.Newsgroup-Binaries.com - *Completion*Retention*Speed*
Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
-----------------
loogy...@gmail.com
> Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq. wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Salmonbait wrote:
> >> On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 21:48:53 -0500, Jim <mo...@rella.com> wrote:
>
> >>> Salmonbait wrote:
> >>>> wrote:
>
> >>>>> "Salmonbait" <salmonb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
>
> - Show quoted text -
It's what it's called. The pilot can tell if the water pump is
working, hence pilot hole.
http://yamahaoutboardparts.com/showthread.php?t=4656
Shop manual calls it such:
http://books.google.com/books?id=wkEZPF3wCC8C&pg=PA412&lpg=PA412&dq=Yamaha+pilot+hole&source=bl&ots=Ic5BiLe-ns&sig=A2uAcDpRzYhyrGJL96RnzAodg4w
It's actually a technical term, so I'm sure you've never heard it
called such.
Salmonbait
Thanks!
--
We say, "THANK YOU, REGGIE"
Salmonbait
Salmonbait
My Yamaha F150 owner's manual calls the hole a 'pilot hole'.
Here's their address in case you need it:
Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA
1270 Chastain Road
Kennesaw, GA 30144
Salmonbait
Better. At least you didn't make me an embarrassment to 'jackals' around
the world.
hk
>
Well, that explains it.
hk
I asked for the etymology.
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
If you want to know the etymology, look it up.
Dave Brown
>> If water was coming from the pilot hole (I refuse to call it a pee
>> hole), it was above the impeller.
> Pilot hole? What's the etymology?
We've always called it a 'pisser' in the shop, and the "tell-tale" in
front of customers. :-)
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
> hk wrote:
>
>>> If water was coming from the pilot hole (I refuse to call it a pee
>>> hole), it was above the impeller.
>
>> Pilot hole? What's the etymology?
>
> We've always called it a 'pisser' in the shop, and the "tell-tale" in
> front of customers. :-)
>
>
>
Well, I can use "Pisser" and "Tell-Tale" and "Pilot Hole", but I am not
going to call it a pee hole. I have my limits you know. ;)
Boater
>> Salmonbait wrote:
>
>>
>> I asked for the etymology.
>>
>> -----------------
>> www.Newsgroup-Binaries.com - *Completion*Retention*Speed*
>> Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
>> -----------------
>
> If you want to know the etymology, look it up.
Bite me.
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
What is the etymology of "Bite me"?
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
Salmonbait
And they'll be happy to give it to you.
Salmonbait
Harry, for Mose's sakes!
What kind of way is that to talk to someone who gave you a good idea. Did
you ever read the book, 'Cujo'? Well, sometimes I'm reminded of that nice
St. Bernard when I read your posts.
Salmonbait
wrote:
>hk wrote:
>
>>> If water was coming from the pilot hole (I refuse to call it a pee
>>> hole), it was above the impeller.
>
>> Pilot hole? What's the etymology?
>
>We've always called it a 'pisser' in the shop, and the "tell-tale" in
>front of customers. :-)
If I wanted to pretend I knew a lot about outboards, what would I call it?
loogy...@gmail.com
>
> >> Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq. wrote:
> >>> Salmonbait wrote:
> >>>> On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 21:48:53 -0500, Jim <mo...@rella.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>> Salmonbait wrote:
> >>>>>> wrote:
>
> >>>>>>> "Salmonbait" <salmonb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >> Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
> >> -----------------
>
> > My Yamaha F150 owner's manual calls the hole a 'pilot hole'.
>
> > Here's their address in case you need it:
>
> > Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA
> > 1270 Chastain Road
> > Kennesaw, GA 30144
>
> > --
> > We say, "THANK YOU, REGGIE"
>
> > Salmonbait
>
> I asked for the etymology.
>
> Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
>
> - Show quoted text -
Googling hand sore from playing with slammer?
pilot (n.)
1512, "one who steers a ship," from M.Fr. pillot, from It. piloto,
O.It. pedoto, usually said to be from Medieval Gk. *pedotes "rudder,
helmsman," from Gk. pedon "steering oar," related to pous (gen. podos)
"foot" (see foot). Change of -d- to -l- in L. parallels that in odor/
olfactory. Sense extended 1848 to "one who controls a balloon," and
1907 to "one who flies an airplane." The verb is first recorded 1693.
hole
O.E. hol "orifice, hollow place," from P.Gmc. *khulaz (cf. O.Fris.,
O.H.G. hol, M.Du. hool, O.N. holr, Ger. hohl "hollow," Goth. us-hulon
"to hollow out"), from PIE base *kel- (see cell). As a contemptuous
word for "small dingy lodging or abode" it is attested from 1616.
Meaning "a fix, scrape, mess" is from 1760. Obscene slang use for
"vulva" is implied from 1340. Hole in the wall "small and
unpretentious place" is from 1822; to hole up first recorded 1875. To
need (something) like a hole in the head, applied to something
useless, first recorded 1951, probably a transl. of a Yiddish
expression, cf. ich darf es vi a loch in kop.
Dave Brown
>> We've always called it a 'pisser' in the shop, and the "tell-tale" in
>> front of customers. :-)
> If I wanted to pretend I knew a lot about outboards, what would I call it?
Overboard water indicator :-)
Tom Francis - SWSports
Not sure, but from a philology standpoint, it's clearly negative in
tone.
Tom Francis - SWSports
<gene.b...@tranquilrefuge.net> wrote:
> I suspect they will self prime
~~ snerk ~~
Gene said self-prime.
Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq.
What is the etymology of "philoloogy". It sounds like a field of study
Bassy would have majored in.
Tom Francis - SWSports
<lan...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Tom Francis - SWSports wrote:
>> On Mon, 22 Dec 2008 12:18:20 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
>> <lan...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Boater wrote:
>>>> Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq. wrote:
>>>>> hk wrote:
>>>>>> Salmonbait wrote:
>>>>>> I asked for the etymology.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----------------
>>>>>> www.Newsgroup-Binaries.com - *Completion*Retention*Speed*
>>>>>> Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
>>>>>> -----------------
>>>>> If you want to know the etymology, look it up.
>>>>
>>>> Bite me.
>>> What is the etymology of "Bite me"?
>>
>> Not sure, but from a philology standpoint, it's clearly negative in
>> tone.
>
>What is the etymology of "philoloogy".
Philomathematic.