fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
Jeff Jones
is?
please reply to post or e-mail at rive...@mindspring.com
thanks,
Jeff
WRH
That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good
oil and high test gas.
--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va
"Jeff Jones" <rive...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94CA5BA1BC6Cri...@207.69.154.205...
trainfan1
> 50:1
> That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good
> oil and high test gas.
Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting &
idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that
just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973
Evinrudes is 80.
Rob
trainfan1
Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting &
idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that
just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973
Evinrudes is 80.
The required oil is mixed 1 part in 50 to the gas (1 pint to a 6.25
gallon outboard tank - yes there is a little extra room intentionally in
OMC tanks) and the engine requires TCW-2 or better oil. The oil cost is
such a small percentage of the operating costs with a boat, so don't be
unnecessarily cheap... get the good stuff (name brand, eg., TCW-3) by
the gallon for economy (will serve 8 full tanks)
A little extra oil is OK (my portable cans are 5.7 gallons, so I put a
pint in to mix up boat gas) but don't run it any leaner.
Rob
WRH
leaded. I've found the old engines I've had ran much better on high test.
--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va
"trainfan1" <lmse...@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
news:3audnf5i755...@usadatanet.net...
Joe
Plus, unlike a 4 stroke, a two stroke will begin to lose power as the octane
is increased above the detonation point.
basskisser
At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using
high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference.
I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt
the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my
idle problem, and ran great at wot.
John Smith
gas does not improve performance and will actually hurt performance. While
there are some people who swear the engine runs better using premium, the
experts say they must have smoked too much pot and have fried their brain
cells.
Why use premium gas when regular will do?
By James R. Healey, USA TODAY
Marti Mayne once fueled her low-octane Subaru with high-octane gas. Not now.
Premium-gas prices "went sky high, and now I just use low grade" to motor
around Yarmouth, Maine, where she runs a marketing business.
Cost differences between regular and premium is as plain as, well,
the sign at the station, like this one in Chicago.
By Scott Olson, Getty Images
When prices dropped earlier this year, she stuck with cheaper fuel because
"I don't think that my car runs any differently on high, medium or lower
grade."
She's right. Engines designed for regular fuel don't improve on premium and
sometimes run worse. And today's engines designed for premium run fine on
regular, too, their makers say, though power declines slightly. (Background:
About Octane ratings)
But premium lovers are passionate. "I would simply curtail driving rather
than switch grades," says Bill Teater of Mount Vernon, Ohio, who puts
high-test in both his Cadillacs, though only one recommends it. He's sure
both the DeVille and the Escalade run rough and lack pep on regular.
Prejudice and preference aside, engineers, scientists and the federal
government say there's little need for premium.
When fuel's cheap, motorists are willing to pay 20 cents or so more for
premium. But as gas prices sneak back up, the mental wrangle begins anew
over whether it's OK to burn cheaper, regular-grade gas.
AS PRICES RISE, CONSUMERS
SHUN PREMIUM GAS
Average price of a gallon of premium gasoline:
1993 $1.30
1999 $1.36
2002 $1.58
20031 $1.80
Premium gas share of all gas sold:
1993 19.9%
1999 16.8%
2002 13.5%
2003 12.1%
Sources: Energy Information Administration,
American Petroleum Institute
The answer almost always is yes.
"I personally use regular even though my owner's manual says you'll get
better performance with premium," says Lewis Gibbs, consulting engineer and
45-year veteran at Chevron oil company. He's chairman of Technical Committee
7 on Fuels, part of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Fuels &
Lubricants Council. Gibbs knows gas.
"My wife runs midgrade (89 octane) in her car, and it's a turbocharged
engine" meant for 91-octane premium, he says.
Premium - gasoline having an octane rating 91 or higher - is just 12.1% of
sales this year, down from 13.5% in 2002, when it was 22 cents a gallon
cheaper, and well below the modern high of 20.3% in 1994, when it was 49
cents cheaper, according to industry and government data. Despite the allure
of premium, once they abandon it, most motorists don't come back, the data
suggest.
For every dime increase in the price, sales of premium gas drop 1%, Bob
Johnson, general manager of gasoline and environmental services for the
7-Eleven chain, figures, based on data back to 1998.
The main advantage of premium-grade gas is that it allows automakers to
advertise a few more horsepower by designing and tuning engines to take
advantage of premium's anti-knock properties. But auto engineers generally
agree that if you use regular in a premium engine, the power loss is so
slight, most drivers can't tell.
"I go back and forth, and I'm hard-pressed to notice" whether there's
regular or premium in the tank, says Jeff Jetter, principal chemist at Honda
Research and Development Americas. He drives an Acura designed for premium.
Import brands, especially, use premium fuel to distinguish their upmarket
models. Most Toyotas, for instance, are designed to run on regular or
midgrade, while the automaker's Lexus luxury brand prefers premium. Same
with Honda and its Acura luxury line.
"Generally, the more expensive the vehicle, the higher the expectation for
performance and the more the customer is willing to pay for fuel," says Pete
Haidos, head of product planning for Nissan in the USA.
Actually, the price debate is nearly worthless. At 20 cents more for
premium, pumping 20 gallons of it instead of regular would cost $4 more.
Annually, that's a difference of $171 for a vehicle that averages 14 miles
per gallon - as some big sport-utility vehicles do - and is driven 12,000
miles a year.
Gasoline retailers and refiners like high-test because it's more profitable
than regular-grade gas is. The retailer paid about 8 cents more for the
premium you pay 20 cents more for - though that margin can swing wildly.
Refiners make a few cents a gallon more on premium than on regular when they
sell to wholesale distributors.
As long as it's clean
Profit is meaningless to the modern engine, which, regardless of what's
specified in the owner's manual, hardly cares what you use - as long as it's
clean.
Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock
sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. And more engine
control computers have adequate memory to allow separate sets of
instructions for various octanes. The engine control computers keep pushing
to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used.
Extreme pressure inside the cylinders causes knock, which is the sound of
the pistons literally rattling inside the cylinders. Too much too long can
damage the engine. A little now and then won't.
The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with
superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving
along and just tramp the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock
fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so
fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors.
Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the
warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say.
"You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer
wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey.
Automakers say they don't test premium engines on regular to check the
difference, but some auto engineers estimate that power declines roughly 5%.
"We can't guarantee the vehicle will perform as specified if other than
premium fuel is used," says Mercedes-Benz spokeswoman Michelle Murad. All
U.S. Mercedes engines specify premium.
All Porsche engines are designed for premium, too, but it's not available
everywhere. "Our cars must be able to drive all over the world, and so we
are able to run on regular," says Jakob Neusser, director of powertrain
development at Porsche's research and development center in Weissach,
Germany. "You don't have to feel that a mechanical problem or anything else
will happen" using regular gas, even in the highest-performance,
regular-production Porsches.
Premium, in fact, sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock
because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. As a result, some
engines won't start as quickly or run as smoothly on premium, notes Gibbs,
the SAE fuel expert.
High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser
than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But
the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same
density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the
engine.
No data show that engines designed strictly for regular run better or longer
on premium.
The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "(I)n most
cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends
offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go
faster, get better mileage or run cleaner."
There is "no way of taking advantage of premium in a regular-grade car,"
says Furey.
"There is no gain. You're wasting money," insists Jim Blenkarn, in charge of
powertrains at Nissan in the USA.
"No customer should ever be deluded into thinking there's any value in
buying a higher grade of octane than we specify," says Toyota's Paul
Williamsen, technical expert and trainer.
But premium retains a mystique.
Even Mayne, the sensible Subaru owner who has switched to regular, says
she'll buy premium when her neighborhood station has a special price. "It's
my perception that I might get better gas mileage or that it might be better
for my engine," she says.
"I would stop driving rather than use a lower grade of gasoline," says
Andrew Martschenko of Boston, who drives a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Nissan says
premium is "recommended" for that engine - automaker code for regular is OK,
but you'll only get the advertised power on premium.
If the price difference between regular and premium grew to $1, Martschenko
says, "Then I might consider trading down" to regular.
Guilt plays a part
Some people feel almost guilty, as if they are abusing their cars, when they
don't burn premium, says gasoline retailer Jay Ricker, president of Ricker
Oil of Anderson, Ind., which operates 28 stations. "They go all the way down
to 87 (octane), but maybe every fourth tank they put in the good stuff."
Sam Turner has seen the appeal, too. He's president of Favorite Markets of
Dalton, Ga., which operates 139 outlets in three states.
He recalls visiting one of his stations during a price war with a nearby
station, which had cut the price of premium to just 4 cents more than
regular, instead of the usual 20-cent difference.
"A customer was waiting and asked me if I was going to match the guy across
the street. I said, 'Yeah,' and he said, 'Good. For 4 cents, I'm gonna buy
super.' "
Basskisser wrote> At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I
Laurie Sokol
cheap. Top end jobs are not. OMC motors come with cranks mated to a block.
Blow it up and it's an anchor. Today's synthetic lubes can be run as lean as
100:1. I prefer regular oil at 50:1. I also add one mothball to 20 gallons
of 90 octane. Don't do it to a catalytic convertor on your chevy...but they
used to make 110 plus octane in 1973. You'll feel the difference. Most OMC's
(johnson evinrude ford;industrial) will provide a port in the water jacket
allowing for an external water temp guage...stay below 185 degrees F. Maybe
go 1 step colder on plugs. If you're nervous go 32:1 on oil, but carry a
spare set of plugs.
peace out
G
"John Smith" <som...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:y4bfc.142795$JO3.84436@attbi_s04...
Joe
"basskisser" <atl_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3c74f111.04041...@posting.google.com...
If true, (coming for you unlikely) the higher octane is most likely helping
to overcome another problem you have with your motor.
Boosting octane above the minimum required in a stock outboard *is* a waste
of money *and* will hurt performance.
John Smith
but it was a different method of rating octane than what is used today. It
is comparing apples and oranges to compare today's octane rating to the ones
used in the past. The ratings at the pumps today use the average between
the two methods (motor protocol and research protocol).
As far as adding mothballs to gasoline, I recommend you read the attached
cut from the Landfield Group, it can be extremely dangerous and expensive to
add mothballs to your gas.
Can mothballs increase octane?
The legend of mothballs as an octane enhancer arose well before WWII when
naphthalene was used as the active ingredient. Today, the majority of
mothballs use para-dichlorobenzene in place of naphthalene, so choose
carefully if you wish to experiment :-). There have been some concerns about
the toxicity of para-dichlorobenzene, and naphthalene mothballs have again
become popular. In the 1920s, typical gasoline octane ratings were 40-60
[11], and during the 1930s and 40s, the ratings increased by approximately
20
units as alkyl leads and improved refining processes became widespread [12].
Naphthalene has a blending motor octane number of 90 [52], so the addition
of
a significant amount of mothballs could increase the octane, and they were
soluble in gasoline. The amount usually required to appreciably increase the
octane also had some adverse effects. The most obvious was due to the high
melting point ( 80C ), when the fuel evaporated the naphthalene would
precipitate out, blocking jets and filters. With modern gasolines,
naphthalene is more likely to reduce the octane rating, and the amount
required for low octane fuels will also create operational and emissions
problems.
If you are interested in reading more about gas and octane visit:
http://www.r-t-o-l.com/laboratory/learning/faq1.htm#q20
"Laurie Sokol" <l.s...@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:erlfc.40886$rg5.70428@attbi_s52...
basskisser
Admixtures aren't the same now, as they were in 1973. Engine has good
compression, has been pressure tested (w/leakdown test) with good
results. Rebuilt carbs, link/sync. OMC technician knew of the problem,
said it was very common in those motors, suggested using high test. It
will idle all day in gear now. Last year, out of curiousity, I went
back to regular unleaded, and when I tried it several times, it acted
like it did prior to high test. So, there you go. Now, of course,
seeing how you think so highly of yourself, you'll disagree, but, the
motor is on the back of MY boat, and high test is the way to go.
Again, it was an OMC tech who gave me the idea.
Joe
> > > At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using
> > > high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference.
> > > I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt
> > > the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my
> > > idle problem, and ran great at wot.
Were you lying then, or lying now?
A quote from you to jog your memory:
"Thanks, Dave, it's a 1973 135hp. You may remember me. The thing
STILL won't idle in gear correctly. The plug wires seem to be a
little brittle, and cracked. Did the decarbonizing, works a
little better, running 93 octane, etc."http://tinyurl.com/ytq4t
Joe
Poor ol' (b)asskisser, caught in another lie.
basskisser
2 cycle motor, that was designed to run on leaded fuel?
"John Smith" <som...@microsoft.com> wrote in message news:<y4bfc.142795$JO3.84436@attbi_s04>...
Joe
> What does ANY of this long winded crap have to do with a 1973 Evinrude
> 2 cycle motor, that was designed to run on leaded fuel?
>
>
Funny how you reply to a 10 day old post yet ignore a post from yesterday
that proves *you* a *liar* on this subject.
basskisser
it did seem as though it didn't work. But, after a couple of outings,
things looked up. It now runs fine, to this day. Now, what happened, I
thought you had blocked my posts? Liar?
Joe
More lies.
First you state that "high test *instantly* cured my problem", now it's
"after a couple of outings"
Now lets blow this one out of the water.
On 4-15-2000 you say you have an idle problem.
http://tinyurl.com/2n822
On 4-25-2000 you say you used decarbonizer and it "worked quite well" in
clearing up your rough idle problem.
http://tinyurl.com/ypdl9
On 5-18-2000 you say on the advise of Dave Brown you changed the plugs,
decarbonized and running high test and it has solved your idle problem.
http://tinyurl.com/2r224
Two weeks later on 5-31-2000 your boat "still won't idle correctly"
http://tinyurl.com/2f6th
On 8-8-2000 you are still having problems with your idle.
http://tinyurl.com/2hy2f
On 8-11-200 you are now going to rebuild your carbs to cure the idle
problem.
http://tinyurl.com/35f68
On 4-26-2002 you advise someone who's motor is stalling in gear to rebuild
the carbs because it "made a world of difference" on yours.
http://tinyurl.com/3brry
8-13-2002 you say your still having idle problems.
http://tinyurl.com/2xrw8
The next time we here from you on this subject is in this thread, where you
state that high test "instantly cured my problem"
Then when confronted with proof of your lie, you change your story to "after
a couple of outings". Your own posting history proves this also a lie.
Are we supposed to believe you have used your boat only a couple of times
over the past 4 years?
Calif Bill
used as a cushion for soft valves as well as an octane booster. Stellite
valves eliminated that requirement.
Bill
"basskisser" <atl_...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3c74f111.0404...@posting.google.com...
Joe
Poor ol' (b)asskisser, caught in three lies in just one thread.
bob
I have been around outboards for over 35 years. Old units like a 1973 135
hp Rude were first year designed with to small bearings on the crank. It
was fixed in 1974 to large bearings. Don't believe me check the crank part
numbers for the years and you will see. More oil in the 73 135 HP is my
advice and also to run Premium gas. No matter what anyone says premium fuel
has more cleaners in it to prevent the dreaded ring sticking in 2 strokes.
ALSO use only synthetic oil and the best you can get is Red Line . Why you
ask? It is simple.Synthetic does not leave deposits in the engine to start
with.
rne...@gmail.com
Thanks
True North
I had one when l was using my 1954 British Seagull 3 hp outboard that needed 10:1 gas/oil mix.
Don't even ask about the crazy 140 weight lower end oil.
gfre...@aol.com
>OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing?
>Thanks
pint of oil so that is 48:1 (or 49:1 in the final volume) but in
either case, close enough for a mixture that was arbitrarily chosen in
the first place.
Tim
gfre...@aol.com
wrote:
in. I think a full bottle is 32:1 and they short fill them for leaner
mixes.
I have some of those bottles with a little compartment at the top. You
squeeze the oil up into the top compartment and dump it in. It is the
right amount of oil for a gallon of gas.
One is 32:1, the other 50:1. That takes care of all of the yard tools
I have.
It has been a real long time since I used premix in an outboard, my
Merc 75 had injection but when I had the 1974 era 40 I used the pint
cans. I bought them by the case.
Tim
However in my 2 cycle boat motors in the past, I did used the squeeze bottle with the top cup. I'd go 40:1 or just a bit thicker. Evinrude had that. Not sure if they still do or not for the old water cooled 2 strokes...
Its Me
I did buy a six pack of Stihl oil when I bought my articulating head pruner. In exchange they doubled the warranty.
Tim
Sounds good to me if it works for you. I've seen those but never have used one...
gfre...@aol.com
about a pint of gas (~500 cc) 10cc of oil is perfect for that.
Things like that are good if you do not think you will use a gallon of
gas before it goes bad. I end up using yard tools often enough in the
summer that the gas does not usually go bad.
I still try to run them dry if I can.
Tim
10:41 AMgfre...@aol.com
about a pint of gas (~500 cc) 10cc of oil is perfect for that.
Things like that are good if you do not think you will use a gallon of
gas before it goes bad. I end up using yard tools often enough in the
summer that the gas does not usually go bad.
I still try to run them dry if I can.
When my 2 gal of pre-mix gets old it goes in my old 8-N ford tractor. It eats it with no problem. Lol!
Poquito Loco
in .454 liters of oil.
Amen.
True North
Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on.
Poquito Loco
>Thank the Lord..
>Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on.
Alex
> Thank the Lord..
> Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on.
True North
Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to.
Alex
lazy or just dumb?
Poquito Loco
Still seem to have the same problem with reading skills, eh?
True North
- hide quoted text -
Poquito Loco
Alex
forget that most people here have real computers that can see that.
It's time for you to STFU.
Justan Olphart
Justan Olphart
> True North wrote:
>> Poquito Loco
>> - hide quoted text -
>> On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 19:29:14 -0700 (PDT), True North
>> <prince...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Friday, 14 October 2016 22:41:51 UTC-3, Alex wrote:
>>>> True North wrote:
>>>>> Thank the Lord..
>>>>> Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can
>>>>> move on.
>>>> Still can't quote a thread? Try harder.
>>>
>>> Not everyone is as ditzy as you, Ditzy.
>>> Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to.
>> "Most know you couldn't follow the oil thread way back when!
>>
>> Still seem to have the same problem with reading skills, eh?"
>>
>>
>>
>> Nice to see you coming to the aid of your turds, Johnny. Wonder if
>> you did the same for the rank and file in your army days.
>
> Really? You support/respond to Harry's BS minutes after he posts. Don't
> forget that most people here have real computers that can see that.
> It's time for you to STFU.
of entertainment.
Keyser Soze
True North
Califbill
Justan Olphart
True North
"The less people that read Donnie snot, the better."
Justan Olphart
cjcas...@gmail.com
Tim
> Is there oil port and if so where and it says use premium gas with 50:1
gfre...@aol.com
wrote:
>On Sunday, June 11, 2017 at 1:34:18 PM UTC-5, cjcas...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Is there oil port and if so where and it says use premium gas with 50:1
>
>Not on a '73 anything two-stroke that Ive ever seen You're better mixing 30 or 40:1 with an old outboard and use premium fuel. I've seen too many scored chainsaws and weed eaters because someone tried to stretch the limits on 50:1/ even with the finest synthetic lubricants, there's no room for error at that rate. Best to mix thicker to the engines specs, than to read some wild claim of an oil manufacturer.
70s.
Tim
Jun 11gfre...@aol.com
May be a difference with water cooled engines like an outboard compared to an air oiled like a chainsaw. Beats me but I'd think that 50:1 is pushing it on any engine.
30:1 for me...
Keyser Soze
of oil per gallon of gasolines.
gfre...@aol.com
landscapers around here run all of them at 50:1. These are not
consumer grade machines tho.
Every outboard I have had since the 70s has run 50:1. (the OMC, a 7.5
merc and a 40 merc from 1974)
gfre...@aol.com
wrote:
>The Evinrudes I remember from the 1950s and 1960s called for a half-pint
>of oil per gallon of gasolines.
Keyser Söze
tcw3,ouls. :)
--
Posted with my iPhone 7+.
Mr. Luddite
vintage 5hp Johnson and watch the oil spill form as the un-burned oil in
the exhaust hits the water.