Help - repairing drilled holes in transom
Steve Breland
stern-heavy 19 ft I/O runabout. This boat has a pronounced rocker in the hull
and has needed help for years. Anyway, the tabs are great, well worth the
price, but.... I have installed them too low. I need to move them and of
course fill in the 10 mounting holes I drilled in the transom. A couple of the
holes go all the way through the transom to an inaccesable area of the bilge.
I mean an area that is unreachable without cutting from the inside. Can
anyone tell me a reliable way to seal these holes from water intrusion on both
sides without having access to the inside? The tabs are mounted with 3/8 in
lag bolts so the 10 holes are drilled 9/32 inch.
Steve Breland
s...@cae1.rmh.edu
E:WINSOCKKA9QSPOOLMAIL
threaded** stainles grub screws ( the type with an internal hex drive )
longer than the transom thickness. Tapped the offending holes, dried
everthing out, coated the screws with epoxy & screwed them just further
than flush & used a skim of gelcoat repair to finish it of neatly. For
blind holes just use shorter screws.-- Safe Sailing,
Dave+------
-------------------------------------------------------------------+|
EMail da...@dynaman.demon.co.uk
clay weekley
>I recently purchased and installed SmarTrim fixed trim tabs on my (very)
>stern-heavy 19 ft I/O runabout. This boat has a pronounced rocker in the hull
>and has needed help for years. Anyway, the tabs are great, well worth the
>price, but.... I have installed them too low. I need to move them and of
store. Mix this powder with water until it is the consistency you want.
push this stuff into the holes in the transom and let it dry. It becomes
just like wook. It can then be drilled, sanded painted or whatever. It is
hatrd as a rock after it dries. Hoope this helps
Adam D. Meyerson
wrote
> Can
> anyone tell me a reliable way to seal these holes from water intrusion on both
> sides without having access to the inside? The tabs are mounted with 3/8 in
> lag bolts so the 10 holes are drilled 9/32 inch.
Drill the holes to 3/8" Get some doweling and cut it to the length of the
hole minus 1/4" Smoosh (technical term) some Marine Tex or epoxy and cab
-o- sil into the holes. Drive the dowels into the transom 1/8" beyond flush
and fill the gap with Marine Tex or epoxy cab -o- sil mix. Sand smooth when
dry and paint to match boat if needed. Marine Tex is available in grey or
white and matches - fairly closely - most white boats gelcoat so is easier
than the epoxy method. If, on the other hand, you always have some West
System epoxy on hand (like me!) than that would work! Have fun and measure
twice, cut once...
Aloha,
--
Adam D. Meyerson
ak...@aloha.net
Fabbian Dufoe
: price, but.... I have installed them too low. I need to move them and of
: course fill in the 10 mounting holes I drilled in the transom. A couple of the
: holes go all the way through the transom to an inaccesable area of the bilge.
: sides without having access to the inside?
I'd try injecting some epoxy thickened to a paste into those
holes which are inaccessible from inside the boat. Use a tube that will
fit inside the hole so you can start the epoxy at the "bottom" of the
hole and withdraw the tube as you inject the epoxy. You'll wind up with
a solid plug of epoxy in the hole.
--Fabbian G. Dufoe, III
350 Ling-A-Mor Terrace South | email:
St. Petersburg, Florida 33705 | sf6l...@ns1.thpl.lib.fl.us
813-823-2350 | fg...@aol.com
Jefferson Marine
Jefferson Marine
"Boating should be pleasurable not a pain where your wallet was."
On Thu, 25 May 1995, Steve Breland wrote:
> I mean an area that is unreachable without cutting from the inside. Can
> anyone tell me a reliable way to seal these holes from water intrusion on both
> sides without having access to the inside? The tabs are mounted with 3/8 in
> lag bolts so the 10 holes are drilled 9/32 inch.
>
> Steve Breland
> s...@cae1.rmh.edu
>
>
I would get a tube of 3-M 5200 Marine sealer and squirt it into
the holes until it comes out the other end of the hole. It is a very long
if not eternal lasting sealant. Also use it on the new mounting screws.
Butt-head
>Steve Breland <s...@cae1.rmh.edu> writes:
>
>>I recently purchased and installed SmarTrim fixed trim tabs on my (very)
>>stern-heavy 19 ft I/O runabout. This boat has a pronounced rocker in the hull
>>and has needed help for years. Anyway, the tabs are great, well worth the
>>price, but.... I have installed them too low. I need to move them and of
>
>you can obtain a product called Durham wood putty at any building supply
>store. Mix this powder with water until it is the consistency you want.
>push this stuff into the holes in the transom and let it dry. It becomes
>just like wook. It can then be drilled, sanded painted or whatever. It is
>hatrd as a rock after it dries. Hoope this helps
I would recommend Marine Tex. It will work like the the wood putty
described above, but it's designed to be submerged indefinately. Since
the wood putty isn't, I'd have some reservations about using that.
-geo
--
____________________________
butt...@mars.superlink.net
"It's been lovely but I have to scream now."
Greg Page
I just patched two holes in my transom, using solid fiberglass dowel
rods and epoxy adhesive. You can get the dowel rods from McMaster-Carr
(industrial supply in NJ, mailorder with same-day shipping most times).
3/8 round 6-ft length #8543k65 $4.85 908-329-3200.
Tom Neely
(available at most hardware stores). Then coat the dowel and inside the holes
with epoxy. Next, tap the dowel in to just a little past the gelcoat. Then finish
up the patch with gelcoat. Hope this helps.
--
******************
Tom J. Neely
ht...@chevron.com
*****************
Steve Weingart
never ;-) I found a two-part 5-minute epoxy-putty that made the job a 10
minute snap.
I put masking tape over the hole on both sides, then cut out the circle of
tape covering the hole on one of the sides. I squished up enough putty to
fill the hole and packed it in. Then I waited about 5 min till the epoxy
kicked and shaved it off flush with a knife, then pulled the tape off on
both sides. Wallah, an almost perfectly flush epoxy fill plug. (if you
can't find the 5 min stuff, the 24 hr stuff that you can get at the swimming
pool store works just as well, just more slowly)
If you touch up the gel coat with Match N' Patch, etc. Make sure that you
don't keep adding more and more pigment to get the color right ( i.e. a
little more blue, no, a little more yellow, now just a dash of white and the
green will be perfect.....) you can thin out the resin until it won't harden
(the example was real ;-)
Sorry, I missed the original post, so I don't know the hole size. The
technique described would be fine for holes up to an inch or so, that are at
least as deep as the diameter. Much larger and I think that you would need
to chamfer the hole and use some cloth and resin to achieve real strength.
Have fun,
Steve
acss...@acs.eku.edu
> I recently purchased and installed SmarTrim fixed trim tabs on my (very)
> stern-heavy 19 ft I/O runabout. This boat has a pronounced rocker in the hull
> and has needed help for years. Anyway, the tabs are great, well worth the
> price, but.... I have installed them too low. I need to move them and of
> holes go all the way through the transom to an inaccesable area of the bilge.
> anyone tell me a reliable way to seal these holes from water intrusion on both
> sides without having access to the inside? The tabs are mounted with 3/8 in
> lag bolts so the 10 holes are drilled 9/32 inch.
>
> Steve Breland
> s...@cae1.rmh.edu
You could get some "threaded" collapseable anchors. These fold up to go
through the hole and then spring out. Put the anchor on a bolt with a
large phillips head and put it through the hole, add lots of sealer and
then tighten it down. This is close to how I sealed a hole that the
manufacturer mis-drilled for my ski eye (I had access for a nut). Of
course it's above the water line, but I'm confident it would say sealed
even below the waterline.
dsc
Dudley Cornman
Systems Programmer
Academic Computing Services - EKU
ACSS...@ACS.EKU.EDU
Chuck Kornutiak
>
>In article <seb.1.0...@cae1.rmh.edu>, s...@cae1.rmh.edu (Steve
Breland) writes:
>> I recently purchased and installed SmarTrim fixed trim tabs on my
(very)
>> stern-heavy 19 ft I/O runabout. This boat has a pronounced rocker in
the hull
>> and has needed help for years. Anyway, the tabs are great, well
worth the
>> price, but.... I have installed them too low. I need to move them
and of
>> course fill in the 10 mounting holes I drilled in the transom. A
couple of the
>> holes go all the way through the transom to an inaccesable area of
the bilge.
>> I mean an area that is unreachable without cutting from the inside.
Can
>> anyone tell me a reliable way to seal these holes from water
intrusion on both
>> sides without having access to the inside? The tabs are mounted
with 3/8 in
>> lag bolts so the 10 holes are drilled 9/32 inch.
>>
I've had good luck filling transom holes from assorted Jack plates by
using wooden dowels. Get a dowell rod the same size or just a little
bigger than the hole you need to fill, cover it in gasket sealer and
hammer it into the transom hole. It helps if you round down the edges
(like a nail) a little. Cover the outside of the hole with fiberglass
resin or more gasket sealer.
It's a good H20 tight fix.
Best o luck,
Chuck
>
>
Timothy Hollingsworth
: In article <seb.1.0...@cae1.rmh.edu>, s...@cae1.rmh.edu (Steve Breland) writes:
<snip>
: You could get some "threaded" collapseable anchors. These fold up to go
Bad idea.
Get some marine epoxy (West, System 3) and thickener (micro balloons, or
other.) Get some dowel rods small than the holes. Mix up some resin and
before adding thickener "paint the inside of the holes with a Q-tip or
something. Test first, epoxy will eat some things. Mix in thickener
until you have someting like toothpaste. Put some in each hole. Coat
the dowel rod. Put the dowel rod in the holes. Fill the outside with
paste and leave a little proud. Let harden, sand and finish.
The reason is that many transomes are of sandwich construction -
glass-wood-glass. You do not want to let water get to the inner wood.