fishfinders
Capt Skip
I am narrowed down to (3) color depthfinder. Furuno 667, SiTex CVS-106,
JRC FF30. I would appriciate any comments. Feel free to E-mail me at
capt...@erols.com
I am useing it in the Chesapeake Bay average depth of 30'. The JRC has
two transducers a 12 and 40 degree cone.
Norman Hirsch
On Tue, 03 Feb 1998 22:19:06 -0800, Capt Skip <capt...@erols.com>
wrote:
I went with the new Sitex Profish II. If you have an open boat or
any sun glare, you might want to look at the Profish II.
--
Best regards,
Norman Hirsch Phone: 212-304-9660
NH&A Fax: 212-304-9759
577 Isham St. # 2-B BBS: 212-304-9759,,,,,,,3
New York, NY 10034 E-mail: NOSPAM...@swfishing.com
USA URL: http://www.swfishing.com
hidda
Capt Skip wrote:
>
> I am narrowed down to (3) color depthfinder. Furuno 667, SiTex CVS-106,
> JRC FF30. I would appriciate any comments. Feel free to E-mail me at
> capt...@erols.com
>
> I am useing it in the Chesapeake Bay average depth of 30'. The JRC has
> two transducers a 12 and 40 degree cone.
Furuno and Sitex are the two top brands in my book. Personally, I go
with Sitex. But, 30 feet? Geeze. Almost any brand will do. Why waste
your money when a Hummingbird will do?
My Sitex is used to find fish at 100 to 200 fathoms and the bottom down
to 500 fathoms. You only want to go down 5 fathoms.
Dennis
Capt. Charlie Walker
I recommended the Sitex 106 to as friend and he his very happy with
it. The Furuno is the top of the line, however. Try to get a machine
that is 200 Khz for the shallow water , not 128Khz, that's a mistake a
lot of people make because the depth finder companies don't tell you
what the difference is, and unless you are buying from a full line
marine electronics store, the sales people probably won't even know
what you are talking about if you tell tyhem you want a 200 Khz
machine.
On Wed, 04 Feb 1998 20:31:44 -1000, hidda <hi...@mauigateway.com>
wrote:
Capt. Charlie Walker Southern Charm Charters
813-546-7257 http://www.flfish.com/fl
Ed Gaito
>I recommended the Sitex 106 to as friend and he his very happy with
>it. The Furuno is the top of the line, however. Try to get a machine
>that is 200 Khz for the shallow water , not 128Khz, that's a mistake a
>lot of people make because the depth finder companies don't tell you
>what the difference is, and unless you are buying from a full line
>marine electronics store, the sales people probably won't even know
>what you are talking about if you tell tyhem you want a 200 Khz
>machine.
What is the difference between 128 and 200khz? I'm looking for a
finder that works well in shallow (5-10ft) to a couple hundred feet of
depth. The khz question is one I have and the other is how much
sensativity one will lose using a shoot-through-the-hull transducer
instead of a transom or cut-a-hole-in-your-brand-new-hull xducer.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
-Ed
Capt. Charlie Walker
On Sun, 08 Feb 1998 01:54:51 GMT, ed_g...@webtrix.com (Ed Gaito)
wrote:
Shallow water in our area is usually considered under 100 to 150 feet.
The best transducer is 200 Khz for this application. Over that depth,
the transducer should be 200 Khz for better discrimination. Some
manufacturers are trying to be all things to all people and have come
out with a 128 Khz transducer, but it does not do the job of a dual
transducer machine. For a better explanation, you really need to
speak to your marine electronics expert(not the discount store clerk).
As for shooting through the hull, if you are going to stay shallow,
it's probably no problem, but in deeper water, you may lose too much
to even tell if tghere are fish on the bottom. There's just no way to
tell except trial and error. Personally, I would opt for a transom
mount before I shot one through the hull, unless you are buying a
machine with high enough power(500 watts or more) and a transducer
that can function out of the water(in the bilge of the boat.) Again,
check with you marine electronics expert. If you would like a tel.
number of one in Tarpon Springs, let me know and I'll give it to you.
Good Luck,
Capt. Charlie
>What is the difference between 128 and 200khz? I'm looking for a
>finder that works well in shallow (5-10ft) to a couple hundred feet of
>depth. The khz question is one I have and the other is how much
>sensativity one will lose using a shoot-through-the-hull transducer
>instead of a transom or cut-a-hole-in-your-brand-new-hull xducer.
>
>Can anyone help?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Ed
Capt. Charlie Walker Southern Charm Charters
813-546-7257 http://www.flfish.com/fl
Bob Hesse
hidda wrote:
>
> Capt Skip wrote:
> >
> > I am narrowed down to (3) color depthfinder. Furuno 667, SiTex CVS-106,
> > JRC FF30. I would appriciate any comments. Feel free to E-mail me at
> > capt...@erols.com
> >
> > I am useing it in the Chesapeake Bay average depth of 30'. The JRC has
> > two transducers a 12 and 40 degree cone.
>
> Furuno and Sitex are the two top brands in my book. Personally, I go
> with Sitex. But, 30 feet? Geeze. Almost any brand will do. Why waste
> your money when a Hummingbird will do?
>
> My Sitex is used to find fish at 100 to 200 fathoms and the bottom down
> to 500 fathoms. You only want to go down 5 fathoms.
>
> Dennis
It is certainky not true that any fishfinder will work just because the
water is only 30 feet deep. I use a Sitex 106 in Lake Erie and is
consistently shows bottom hugging walleyes that are not shown on
friends' uits - Lowrence and Hummingbird. A quality fishfinder works
well in 30 or 300 feet.
hidda
My unit will work in shallow water too, but I have to turn the gain all
the way down. My only point in my post was to indicate that getting a
super duper unit is a waste of money if all you want to do is find fish
at 30 feet. Sorry, it's just that I don't like to waste money and
paying a couple of grand for a top line color recorder is a waste of
money for most people.
If I only fished in 30' of water, I'd buy a $200 or $300 Hummingbird
instead of over $2,000 for what I have.
Kevin Kirkendall
I have the new Hummingbird Wide eye 100 model, and it works great. 3 beams built
in one, all on different frequencies, and shows you the size and location of the
fish, port, starboard, or inline with the boat (whichever way the fish is pointed,
thats where it is). I've picked up walleye at lake erie sitting on the bottom,
and after using it one season, I can accurately put my bait where I saw the fish.
I mounted my transducer at the transom for better accuracy, although it can also
be thru hull with epoxy. My friend has a Loranz, and the Hummingbird picks up
more bottom detail than his, but to be fair, his is also about 4 years old, so it
may be due to changing technology.
BTW, some fishfinders even have games built in, so you can pass the time when
they're not biting.
Kevin
Ed Gaito
>Shallow water in our area is usually considered under 100 to 150 feet.
>The best transducer is 200 Khz for this application.
Finally, a number! Thanks, this is definately a starting point. I
will be fishing Lake Lanier in Georgia mostly and the intercoastal in
Florida once or twice a year. I may try some "off beach" stuff, but
doubt I'll do much offshore until I'm a better boat handler. I'll
have to find some charts of the lake and ICW to see what the depths
are.
Snip:
> For a better explanation, you really need to speak to your marine electronics expert
> (not the discount store clerk).
Ha! That's a tough thing to find in this area. The discount store
clerks ARE the defacto marine electronics experts around here! I am
the type that would spend 10-20% more to buy from an exptert, but
unfortunately I haven't been able to locate one here.
>As for shooting through the hull, if you are going to stay shallow,
>it's probably no problem, but in deeper water, you may lose too much
>to even tell if tghere are fish on the bottom. There's just no way to
>tell except trial and error. Personally, I would opt for a transom
>mount before I shot one through the hull, unless you are buying a
>machine with high enough power(500 watts or more) and a transducer
>that can function out of the water(in the bilge of the boat.)
Is a finder typically fixed on a particular frequency or is that a
function of the xducer? My thought is that maybe I could mount both
and switch out a cable depending on what I'm doing?
>Again,
>check with you marine electronics expert. If you would like a tel.
>number of one in Tarpon Springs, let me know and I'll give it to you.
Thanks for the help.
Tommy Silver
> . Personally, I would opt for a transom
> >mount before I shot one through the hull, unless you are buying a
> >machine with high enough power(500 watts or more) and a transducer
> >that can function out of the water(in the bilge of the boat.)
I have mounted transducers inside the hull of my boat. I have an 18' C/C that I use
inshore and offshore. I shoot through the hull on it and I get very good reception in
depths from 1' to 150' (never been deeper in this boat). I suggest that you try inside
the hull first since you have nothing to loose and no holes to drill. You can simply
place the transducer in the sump well and let enough water in the boat to cover it. The
sump is usually only a single hull thickness and happens to be directly over the "pad"
that stays in the water at high speed. I have had more trouble with transom mounting than
shoot-through.
If you decide to mount it inside and it would be in the way in the sump (where all the
trash collects), if there is another space that is not double hulled, you can mount it in
its own little reservoir. Just cut a piece of 4" PVC pipe at the dead rise angle of the
spot where you want to mount it so it stands vertically when placed on end. With
silicone RTV, glue the pipe to the hull and hang the transducer in it so it points
straight down. Fill the pipe with water to cover the transducer and cap it with a rubber
PVC pipe cap and hose clamp. I cut a hole in the cap so I can easily add water when it
evaporates (about twice a year).
BTW, my depth finder is an off-the-shelf, cheapy-to-midrange variety. It is single
frequency. I have seen dual frequency models advertised.
Tommy
allen r. perrins
water. Make the baggie lie as flat as possible against the hull, pour a
little water under the baggie to drive any trapped air out. Remember,
the transducer must not look at a stream of bubbles under any
circumstances. Many hulls have only a single skin.
Al
Capt. Charlie Walker
On Wed, 11 Feb 1998 20:25:58 -0800, "allen r. perrins"
<bar...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
I've been out of town for the last week and it seems you have gotten
some very good ideas re: mounting inside the hull. I've heard of them
all and like the one respose said, you have nothing to lose if you try
it before you drill holes, just make sure you keep the transducer
covered with water.
Good luck,
Capt. Charlie