removed distributor but forgot to mark the position of rotor
Han
the original position? or how can I properly re-install the
distributor? I have a 1978 mercruiser 260 (chevy 350 engine).
Thanks for your help.
Tan PS
wrench at the drive pulley nut, removing spark plugs helps, until both #1
cylinder vlaves are closed. This is TDC for #1, position rotor arm at #1
position and reinstall distributor. The timing mark should also line up.
You must sight the #1 valves for this, using the timing mark without the
valves can put you at #6 at TDC with the marks lined up.
Good luck.
"Han" <ti...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3a59f5f6.0407...@posting.google.com...
Han
I already took the heads off for a valve job. Is there a way to just
look at the piston?
Gregory McGuire
1. remove spark plug from #1 cylinder
2. crank motor with finger over the #1 cylinder plug hole
3. pressure pushing air out hole indicates piston coming to TDC (TOP DEAD
CENTER)
4. check timing mark on engine lines up with 0 (zero) on the timing mark on
vibration dampener.
5. insert distributor so that rotor points to #1 lead on distributor cap.
Gregory McGuire
remove the ignition wire from the coil to prevent the engine from starting
Tan PS
lifters. Both should be at the bottom of travel. If not at bottom of
travel, it the #6 TDC, turn engine over 1 more revolution.
No need to go out of our way to find the #1 TDC before the valve adjustment,
the reassembly process will bring you there.
As your heads are off, you'll need to adjust the valves after head
reassembly. That is done at 2 engine positions, #1 TDC and #6 TDC. Do that
with #6 first, then #1 and your engine is ready for the distributor.
Hope this helps.
"Han" <ti...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3a59f5f6.04070...@posting.google.com...
Derek
If your heads are still off, there isn't much point in trying to get
the timing set. I guess you could drop the 2 push-rods down the #1
sleeves and rotate the engine by hand. As the piston comes to it's
highest point (TDC) and both push-rods are at their lowest points,
this would indicate a good time for the #1 plug to fire, actually just
before this point, but the rotor should be lined up pretty close to
the #1 plug wire.
Once the heads are on, confirm your setting as indicated by previous
poster.
If I remember correctly, once it's all together and the timing is set,
the distribtor sits pretty square to the engine (???). By this I mean
that the 2 bolts/clips that hold the distributor cap on run along the
same axis as the crank, or is it perpendicular? I use this as a quick
check to see if a tooth has been skipped. Obviously this will change
slightly as the timing is adjusted, but if they sit 10 or more degrees
off.... This is just my observation from these motors and I could be
way off base here.
Good Luck
Steve Daniels, Seek of Spam
<j...@hotmail.com>, to say:
>On 2 Jul 2004 15:35:57 -0700, ti...@yahoo.com (Han) wrote:
>
>>Thanks for the info.
>>I already took the heads off for a valve job. Is there a way to just
>>look at the piston?
>
>If your heads are still off, there isn't much point in trying to get
>the timing set. I guess you could drop the 2 push-rods down the #1
>sleeves and rotate the engine by hand.
Yeah, you could, but you have to install the intake manifold
before you can install the distributor, and you have to install
the heads before you can install the intake manifold.
JAXAshby
over the engine until you feel compression coming up, then some more, then use
a small screwdriver stuck down the hole and turn the engine over very slowly
until the piston has stopped moving up.
Take cap off distributor, noting which plug wire the rotor is pointing at,
insert distributor in hole and tighten hold bolt enough to kept the distributor
from slopping around. The spark wire the rotor is pointing is the wire you run
to cyl #1. then run the rest of the plug wires to the prop plugs in the proper
order.
You engine will start (assuming all else is okay), and then time the engine.
Then go boating and enjoy.
JAXAshby
>remove the plug from cyl #1 (or any cyl)
>The spark wire the rotor is pointing is the wire you run
>to cyl #1.
(or the cyl you held your thumb over)
Esourcedesigns
marks on TDC. Locate #1 on the distributor cap and mark it on the base of the
distributor, the metal portion. >I screw up... didn't read the manual
Esourcedesigns
and mark it corresponding position on the distributor with a marker of some
sort. Allow enough room so that the distributor can be rotated around to get
proper timing drop the distriutor so that the ign rotor and the mark you made
are aligned. If it doesn't, pull it out and restab it. Install the cap and
crank it over. If the timing is 180 degrees out it should continuosly backfire
through the intake. If this is the case, pull the crank pully back around to
TDC, pull the distributor back out then turn the crank pully one complete turn.
Restab the distriutor again. Leave the distributor clamp loose so you can
play with the timing to get it started. Even timing off 10 degrees or so won't
prevent it from starting. The get your timing light out and finish the job.
You can pull the valve cover to be certain of TDC to begin with but you'll
spend more time doing this then you would restabing a 180 out distributor.
Another way is to simply remove number 1 plug and put your finger in the hole.
When you turn the crank pulley over to TDC you should feel pressure building.
This would indicate the cylinder is on its compression stroke. Either method
is a lot simplier than removing a valve cover not to mention running back to
the parts house for more parts and more money.
Dennis
ASE Certified Master Auto Technician and Marine Engineer in training
JAXAshby
>marks on TDC. Locate #1 on the distributor cap and mark it on the base of
>the
>distributor, the metal portion.
way to go "certified auto mechanic". you just gave yourself a 50-50 chance of
timing your distributor 180* out, so you get a nice, fat spark just as the
intake opens on each cylinder.
JAXAshby
Marine Engineer in training". THIS is what they are teaching you "in training"
these days? Install the distributor and check to see if it is backfiring, and
if so, reinstall 180* around?
Kriste Almighty, you are unable to tell when a cylinder is coming up on
compression, aren't you. You have two thumbs. Do you not know how to use
either one of them?
go back to driving the forklift and don't post anything ever again on anything
having to do with engines. Ever.
geesh, the dumb cluck can't tell when a cyl is coming up on compression. Say,
you don't suppose that maybe he doesn't know *why* a cyl comes up on
compression, do you?
JAXAshby
pulleys have no Top Dead Center (just in case, dennie, you don't have a clew
what TDC stands for, a likely case). Pulleys are round. Therefore a pulley
can not have a TDC.
pulleys mounted to the front of the crankshaft on engines where a belt power
takeoff is installed *usually* (but not always) have a mark to show ****when
cylinder # ------> 1 <-------- is at Top Dead Center****. This mark can be
used to show when #1 piston is at the top of its stroke but can NOT be used to
determine whether the piston (in a 4-cycle engine) is at the top of the
compression stroke (when you need spark) or at the top of its exhaust
stroke/the beginning of its intake stroke.
A mechanic who installs the distributor in the 50-50 hopes of having it timed
right, tries the engine to see if it backfires, if it does, takes out the
distributor and resets it 180* around is no mechanic at all. He is a fraud who
should be sent to jail for stealing money from customers.
by the frickin way dennie, "ASE Certified Master Auto Technician and Marine
Engineer in training", next time you are "installing" (I use the word loosely)
a distributor and find somehow once again yet another time you installed the
thing backwards, instead of removing the distributor and then turning over the
engine a full turn and reinstalling the distributor, just move the ignition
wires around the dist cap 180*. That would take maybe ten seconds for even a
"Marine Engineer in training" like you.
geesh, somebody hired this guy to fix what?
Esourcedesigns
your mouth and pulling the trigger. Just because the neighbors 9 year old
daughter cut you off is certainly no reason why the rest of the world has to
suffer and tolerate you adolescent behaviour. Maybe you should spend a few
more years in prison for molesting a minor. I would have thought the 6 years
you already spent in prison taught you something. I guess I was wrong. Maybe
it has something to do with the fact that you were someone's bitch and after
all the but fucking you got you were determined to fuck the rest of the world.
Go back to study hall you kiddy fucker.
Dennis
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech and Marine Engineer in training
>Re: removed distributor but forgot to mark the position of rotor
>From: jaxa...@aol.com (JAXAshby)
>Date: 7/4/04 8:07 AM Central Daylight Time
>Message-id: <20040704090750...@mb-m25.aol.com>
DDeanFountain
>Date: 7/3/04 8:13 AM Central Daylight Time
>Message-id: <20040703091348...@mb-m04.aol.com>
>
>remove the plug from cyl #1 (or any cyl), put your thumb over the hole, turn
>over the engine until you feel compression coming up, then some more, then
>use
>a small screwdriver stuck down the hole and turn the engine over very slowly
>until the piston has stopped moving up.
What shade tree do you work under? The screwdriver bit went out with Briggs
and Stratons 3.5 horse motors.
>
>Take cap off distributor, noting which plug wire the rotor is pointing at,
>insert distributor in hole and tighten hold bolt enough to kept the
>distributor
>from slopping around. The spark wire the rotor is pointing is the wire you
>run
>to cyl #1. then run the rest of the plug wires to the prop plugs in the
>proper
>order.
>
If the distributor is out of the motor you'd think that maybe, I said just
maybe that the distributor shaft would have been moved somewhere in the
process.
>You engine will start (assuming all else is okay), and then time the engine.
>Then go boating and enjoy.
>
Then following these directions you haul the boat down to a tech that really
knows what he's doing and ignore any post from this asshole JAXAshby.
After following the post made by JAX for the last several months, I quickly
came to realize that you'd have to be a fool to listen to anything this guy has
to say. While he claims to know just about everything, you should read some of
his post in the other groups where he asks questions that a first year high
school shop class student could answer.
Dean
>
>
>
>
JAXAshby
kid could do in twenty minutes. installing a distributor is EEEE fickin ZEE.
10,000 high school boys (and 1,000 high school girls) did it over last weekend.
Tan PS
weekend.
Must have been one hell of an orgy.
Sorry, couldn't resist. LOL
"JAXAshby" <jaxa...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040705235026...@mb-m14.aol.com...
JAXAshby
off girls left over. :-)
Gould 0738
Talk about leaving yourself wide open.......
DDeanFountain
better job explaingin how its done. Not to mention, could run rings around
anything you attempted to do. Have you ever seen the head removed from this
type engine? I doubt it! Or the pistons? The heads are small chambered heads
and half the surface area is within a millimeter or so of the piston at top
dead center. So shove a screw driver in there, run the engine over to TDC and
you'd be buying some poor fool a motor for scarring the piston or the cylinder
wall.
Obviously you have never turned a wrench in your life. Notice I said wrench
and NOT winch. Just because you are physically able but mentally limited to
turning the ignition switch on a boat doesn't mean you have any knowledge of
mechanics. You are so sincerely full of shit and your too ignorant to figure
this out for yourself. From what I can see you have plenty of people trying
desperatly to explain this to you but like an alcoholli, your in denial.
Reading some of your posts like the one about the preluber or the one about
never seeing a non geared oil pump, its obvious to any high school shop student
that the dope you smoke has fried your brain. Why not put your home page back
up so I can display a link to the world's largest brain dead asshole. I can't
tell you the number of hours of enjoyment I have had laughing so hard that I
pissed my pants looking at the picture of you in your underwear. With
everything that's going on in this world, we could use another good laugh!
Dean
JAXAshby
>
>Talk about leaving yourself wide open.......
high was a ways back, but I still remember it.
JAXAshby
the Lost Idiot from some distant village, but then again perhaps he really *IS*
lost to normality. Let's assume the later and address his issues one point at
a time.
DD ean Fountain writes:
>Following your instructions, you're certainly right, any 16 year old could do
>better job
well, timing a distributor certainly is purdy easy.
>explaingin how its done.
too many big words for a double D villiage idiot to comprehend?
>Not to mention, could run rings around
>anything you attempted to do.
now, *there* you have stepped beyond your knowledge base. *you* have no idea
what "anything" includes in my skill sets.
>Have you ever seen the head removed from this
>type engine?
of course.
>I doubt it!
well, you ARE the village idiot.
>Or the pistons?
huh?
>The heads are small chambered heads
huh? English is an unknown language for you?
>and half the surface area is within a millimeter or so of the piston at top
>dead center.
so? not accurate, but even if it were, so?
>So shove a screw driver in there,
shove?
>run the engine over to TDC
**run** the engine? *you* start the engine and _then_ push a screwdriver
through an open spark plug holes. Why?
Or maybe *you* use the starter motor to whirl the engine over -- spark plugs
removed -- at top speed before inserting the screwdriver? if so, just how do
you get the engine to stop for you right at tdc.
say double dee, ever consider turning the spark plugless engine over by hand
using the crankshaft pulley, or maybe a socket on the nut on the end of the
crank on a long arm to turn the engine? pretty steep concept for a village
idiot, but think about it next time.
>and
>you'd be buying some poor fool a motor for scarring (double dee, the English
word for what you are trying to say is "score", not "scar") the piston
how are *you* going to scar the piston, double dee? the screwdriver is resting
on the piston top and backs up slowly out of the spark plug hole as you slowly
rotate the crankshaft to get the piston to tdc. easy, double dee, even for the
village idiot.
>or the cylinder
>wall.
if *you* can't tell a piston crown (that's what the top of a piston is called,
double dee) from a cylinder wall ask someone to show the difference.
>Obviously you have never turned a wrench in your life.
obvious only to someone in a drug altered universe, double dee.
>Notice I said wrench
>and NOT winch.
yes, I noticed you used the word "wrench" which is the word I assumed at that
moment you intended to use, but why are you telling us that is the word you
intended to use. are you not certain which word you intended to use?
>Just because you are physically able
why are you worrying about me physically?
>but mentally limited to
>turning the ignition switch on a boat
you mean I don't know how to turn the ignition switch on a car, or motorcycle
or airplane? Gee, I have had licenses to operate those vehicles for decades.
>doesn't mean you have any knowledge of
>mechanics.
well, I know the author of "The Perfect Storm" put a gasoline engine in the
ill-fated fishing boat. Do *you* know how he did that? Do you understand
English well enough to read books without pictures?
>You are so sincerely full of shit
"sincerely full" as opposed to "insincerely full"?
>your too ignorant to figure
>this out for yourself.
I dunno. I have never "scared" a piston with a screwdriver in several decades.
>From what I can see you have plenty of people trying
>desperatly to explain this to you
lots of people "trying to desparatly (sic) trying to explain" astrology to me,
too, but that cut any weight in informed circles.
>but like an alcoholli, your in denial.
now double dee, are you REALLY saying that anyone who disagrees with your idiot
statements re pistons is an alcoholli (where the hell did you get that word?)
in denial? That is 98% of the world.
>the dope you smoke has fried your brain.
now double dee, you have slipped on the sidewalk of life and have broken your
ankle. spend a few months healing, visit with your spiritual adviser, get your
teeth fixed and get someone to explain to you the difference between 12-point
and 6-point sockets.
adriansa...@gmail.com
Tim
10:50 AMadriansa...@gmail.com
:::
If all you did is remove the cap then reinstall the cap. But if you disturbed the distributor then a Re-time would be required.
gfre...@aol.com
wrote:
>I pulled my chevy 350 out of my s10 had to remove cap for clearance took trans off rotate motor to take fly wheel off so I have to retime motor or can I just put cap back on
#1 in on a compression stroke (valves closed) and point the rotor to
the #1 on the cap. That should be close enough to start it. Get your
timing light out and finish it up.