Hitch is class III.
Trailer does have brakes.
Here in indianapolis,ind the terrain is flat.
I do a lot of weekend puddel jumping,the boat will be sitting on the
trailer durring the week, so I just need to know if this is going to be
too taxing on the Sub.
Should I have any other concerns?
thank you !
matt.
> Hi all,
> I just purchased a Bayliner 2655 Ciara!
> ?--- Is my 95 Chevy suburban, 2WD, TBI,5.7, going to be able to pull
> this 5300 lb boat?
>
> Hitch is class III.
> Trailer does have brakes.
> Here in indianapolis,ind the terrain is flat.
>
No problem, the "burb" you have should be rated to 7000 lb. I pull a 6000
lb. rig with a '98 F150 with no problem and a friend pulls a 10000 lb rig
with a 2500 Suburban with no trouble. If you were closer to the max load
rating then I would recommend not loading the whole house into the suburban
since the towing rating is actually the total gross vehicle weight
(including trailer) minus the actual weight of the truck. You should see a
number between 10000 and 12000 either in your owners manual or on the door
jam. Subtract the actual weight of the truck (from the manual + your
passengers and luggage) from this max number and that's how big a load you
can tow.
--
Mark Whatman
mailto:mwha...@worldnet.att.net
http://home.att.net/~mwhatman
> If you were closer to the max load
>rating then I would recommend not loading the whole house into the suburban
>since the towing rating is actually the total gross vehicle weight
>(including trailer) minus the actual weight of the truck. You should see a
>number between 10000 and 12000 either in your owners manual or on the door
>jam. Subtract the actual weight of the truck (from the manual + your
>passengers and luggage) from this max number and that's how big a load you
>can tow.
>
>--
>Mark Whatman
>mailto:mwha...@worldnet.att.net
>http://home.att.net/~mwhatman
Good advice about taking the weight of passengers and luggage into
account.But.. If
one uses the gross vehicle weight however as the standard from which to deduct
the vehicle's curb weight and payload and try to arrive at a trailer capacity,
one would arrive at an erroneous number.
The math in the formula works if the curb weight and payload of the tow vehicle
are deducted from the Gross Combination Weight rating, rather than the gross
vehicle weight rating. The GCWR is available from the manufacturer, but is not
typically printed on the doorjamb like GVW is.
By way of example: A light duty half ton vehicle might have a GVW of around
5000 pounds, with a curb weight of about 3200 and an 1800 pound allowance for
passengers and cago. Such a vehicle can tow a trailer far heavier than 1800
pounds, since part of the work (supporting the weight of the load) is done by
the axles under the trailer.
That Suburban was born to pull your boat. You still need to
take it easy, though and anticipate every move. You might want
to consider installing an aux. transmission cooler if you don't
already have one.
Eisboch
Bob Lange
Albuquerque, New Mexico
blan...@aol.com
If you were pulling with a Dodge with a 440 cubic inch engine, then
it must have been an older truck with problems. A good running
440 would have enough torque to pull twice that weight at 60 mph up
and down hills. I pull an 8000 lb. boat/trailer (just for spring
launching and fall retrieval) with a '97 Dodge Ram with a 360 engine
and automatic. It knows it is pulling something, but does not
bog down on the highway like you described. I am not at 6000 ft
elevation, however, so that would make a difference. Anyway, if
you do a lot of miles towing, I'd go for a Dodge 3/4 ton with
Cummins diesel or a Ford 3/4 ton with the powerstroke. GM diesels
are not in the same league, unfortunately.
Eisboch (I didn't say GM's were bad! - just the diesels)
>
> The math in the formula works if the curb weight and payload of the tow vehicle
> are deducted from the Gross Combination Weight rating, rather than the gross
> vehicle weight rating. The GCWR is available from the manufacturer, but is not
> typically printed on the doorjamb like GVW is.
>
> By way of example: A light duty half ton vehicle might have a GVW of around
> 5000 pounds, with a curb weight of about 3200 and an 1800 pound allowance for
> passengers and cago. Such a vehicle can tow a trailer far heavier than 1800
> pounds, since part of the work (supporting the weight of the load) is done by
> the axles under the trailer.
Good catch, my formula was based on the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight. If you have
a vehicle with a GVW near 12000 then you could pull the marina to the boat.<g>
I've heard a lot of people say "sure, it will tow it" without ever really looking
at the vehicle so read the manual and talk to your dealer to make sure your truck
is correctly configured to tow your boat. Rear axle ratio, HD cooling (including
trans) and HD shocks make a HUGE difference in the capabilitys of your truck and
how enjoyable your towing experience will be.
The problem with weight distributing hitches are the surge breaks used on
boat trailers. There are adapters that can be put on the tongue of boat
trailers that attach the load springs to a moving assembly that drifts with
the surge break assembly.
I have spent some significant time researching this issue (I tow a
boat/trailer that weighs 10,000 lbs weight with a 3/4 ton suburban) because
I want to take my boat to Baja California from San Diego, CA. Summarized,
here is what I would recommend:
1. If you only tow short distances (max 30 miles each way) I would check how
much the rear "squats" when you hitch the boat trailer. If it's significant,
and the headlights point higher than normal while hitched, you SHOULD
correct this with spring helpers or some similar solution. Remember, that
you will be towing in a marginal situation with this setup.
2. In ALL OTHER CASES, get your trailer adapted to use a weight distributing
hitch properly. You will then have a safe setup that will allow you to tow
in safety.
Roberto Edwards
Mark Whatman wrote in message <36A20780...@worldnet.att.net>...
>Matt Eilenberg wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> I just purchased a Bayliner 2655 Ciara!
>> ?--- Is my 95 Chevy suburban, 2WD, TBI,5.7, going to be able to pull
>> this 5300 lb boat?
>>
>> Hitch is class III.
>> Trailer does have brakes.
>> Here in indianapolis,ind the terrain is flat.
>>
>
>No problem, the "burb" you have should be rated to 7000 lb. I pull a 6000
>lb. rig with a '98 F150 with no problem and a friend pulls a 10000 lb rig
>with a 2500 Suburban with no trouble. If you were closer to the max load
>rating then I would recommend not loading the whole house into the suburban
>since the towing rating is actually the total gross vehicle weight
>(including trailer) minus the actual weight of the truck. You should see a
>number between 10000 and 12000 either in your owners manual or on the door
>jam. Subtract the actual weight of the truck (from the manual + your
>passengers and luggage) from this max number and that's how big a load you
>can tow.
>
You don't mention what transmission you have. I used to tow a 2855 Ciera
Sunbridge with my '85 Ford F-150 4WD pickup with a 5.7 liter engine. The
engine and brakes worked fine but I toasted the C-6 automatic transmission
twice on some massive hills here in Washington State. No amount of
transmission coolers could keep the transmission from meltdown every summer.
With no hills to speak of you should probably be alright even with an
automatic.
Bill Landsborough
------------------
"Here I am! I stand at the door and knock. If anyone hears my voice and opens
the door, I will come in and eat with him, and he with me." Revelation 3:20
> Weeeeellll .... that's close. If that's a 1/2 ton suburban, you are rated
> from 6000-7000 lbs, depending on the axle ratio. BUT, that's a rating using
> a weight distributing hitch. A class III hitch is rated to 5000 (500 max
> tongue weight) in a weight carrying configuration.I don't know what the boat
> (wet weight) + trailer weighs, but you are certainly over the hitch rating
> and over the vehicle rating unless you use a weight distributing hitch.
<snip>
Boats don't use or need weight distributing hitches up to ~ 10,000 lb. You can
position the boat and axles to keep the tongue weight at or near 500 lb. abd
still have 5% or better tongue weight ratio. The surge brakes work fine on
these trailers. It's not the same as motor homes or travel trailers. As long
as you keep the tongue weight below rated and the total load at the rating of
the receiver you're fine. In fact, I haven't seen a weight distributing hitch
on any boat trailer, other than professional rigs that are used up to 15,000
lb. Above that we go to 5th wheel.
I tow a 26 Velocity (6000 lbs) behind an F150 with towing package and the 5.4
with no problems. We tow our race boat, a 41' Velocity (~10,000 lb.) behind an
F350 dualie with the powerstroke diesel. No weight distributing hitches and as
much as 10,000 miles a year.
That's the problem - there are very few receivers rated above 5000/500 in a
weight carrying configuration. Personally, I find that below about 7% of
total weight the tongue starts to get too light. Hitches are rated for a
reason, and I don't believe it makes sense to exceed those ratings. I
realize that much of the time you can exceed them and not have problems, but
I feel that caution is the way to proceed when towing upwards of 6000
pounds.
Sure, surge brakes work fine - they do cause problems when used improperly
with weight distributing hitches, and that was my point.
Auto or manual trans shouldn't make that much of a difference once rolling, so whichever you prefer.
If you're really wanting to tow up hills faster make sure you order the 4.10 or 4.11 gear ratio. If you buy
an older truck fitted with a 3.xx ratio, have it swapped with a 4.10
- Brian
A bayliner, chevy and webtv eeessshh :-)
SA
http://www.twow.com/bluefin/mothership.html
Help Find Rachel Newhouse Goto http://www.gracenote.com/rachel
More likely to be a 6,500 pound rig.
He says the boat weighs 5,300 pounds.
The trailer must weigh 750-1000 pounds.
Fuel...even his small 70-gallon tank weighs 500 pounds when full.
Plus all the other crapola one accumulates.
Betcha it tips the scale between 6,500 and 7,000 pounds.
--
Harry Krause
- - - - - - - - - - - -
I didn't believe in reincarnation the last time either.
>Betcha it tips the scale between 6,500 and 7,000 pounds.
Easily. I'd be thinking 3/4 ton big block myself. Even in flat Indiana.
The great myth about the Suburban is that they are ALL great tow rigs.
The fact is the 3/4 ton rig with a 454 is the tow monster. The 1500
models are limited by the frame and suspension. If you have ever been
under a TRUE 2500 you would see the difference.
Progress accordingly.
Glenn
Mark Whatman wrote:
>
> Roberto Edwards wrote:
>
> > Weeeeellll .... that's close. If that's a 1/2 ton suburban, you are rated
> > from 6000-7000 lbs, depending on the axle ratio. BUT, that's a rating using
> > a weight distributing hitch. A class III hitch is rated to 5000 (500 max
> > tongue weight) in a weight carrying configuration.I don't know what the boat
> > (wet weight) + trailer weighs, but you are certainly over the hitch rating
> > and over the vehicle rating unless you use a weight distributing hitch.
>
> <snip>
>
> Boats don't use or need weight distributing hitches up to ~ 10,000 lb. You can
> position the boat and axles to keep the tongue weight at or near 500 lb. abd
> still have 5% or better tongue weight ratio. The surge brakes work fine on
> these trailers. It's not the same as motor homes or travel trailers. As long
> as you keep the tongue weight below rated and the total load at the rating of
> the receiver you're fine. In fact, I haven't seen a weight distributing hitch
> on any boat trailer, other than professional rigs that are used up to 15,000
> lb. Above that we go to 5th wheel.
>
You're getting into a quagmire of things to consider. What you do with a F350
dualie may not be (is probably not) relavant to a ("1/2 ton") 1500 Suburban.
You're right that boats don't need distributing hitches... its the tow
vehicle that may need it, not the boat.
You need to consider the manufacturer's limits for the vehicle, the hitch
limits (not all receiver hitches are created equal), and even local law. You
may be able to exceed one or all of them, but then all bets are off as to how
safe it would be.
I drive a 2500 Suburban with a 454. It has the V5 receiver hitch that came
with the tow package. For the Sub, the V5 is rated up to 10,000 lb trailer
wt and 1,000 lb tongue (10000/1000). BUT - that's for a distributing hookup.
For towing dead weight (non-distributing) the same hitch is only rated for
4000/400. Makes no difference that the truck can pull 10,000 pounds dead
weight - the hitch rating becomes the limiting factor. The strongest truck
you can get is useless when your hitch fails.
Then you have local laws. What is the "unladen weight" of a "1/2 ton"
Suburban? If the unladen weight is less than 4,000 lbs then you are limited
by law in California to a trailer of no more than 6,000 lbs. A 10,000 lb
trailer hits the limit for a regular driver license in CA. Pulling anything
over 10,000 requires a class A driver license.
To the original question for towing 5300 lb behind a 1/2 ton... You can set
it up to be within specs and be legal. But it will require diligence in your
driving. I tow a 5000 lb trailer behind the 3/4 ton and its a substantial
load (especially since I don't take my own advice and use a distributing
hookup when the hitch limits say I should).
I would hope that the person setting his 1/2 ton up for a 5000+ trailer will
not be back in a year advising future inquiries with things like, "No
problem. I tow my 5,300 boat behind my 1/2 ton with no trouble. Rides fine,
even at 75 mph!". Which brings to mind another local law - brutally violated
on regular basis - the speed limit everywhere in CA for *ANY vehicle towing a
trailer* is *55 mph*.
Curtis
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
FWIW,
I tow my 21' Glassply which tips the scale at 6400 lbs. including
trailer, with my 95 Grand Cherokee V-8. It's rated from the factory to
tow 6500 lbs. with the class III hitch. I do realize I'm pushing the
envelope with this combo. I've also towed it with a 94 1/2 ton suburban
4X4, which was rated for 10,000lb capacity. It was a much more enjoyable
trip. I don't believe you need a 3/4 ton Suburban to do this tow. Just
my opinion and experience.
Alan
There is ONE (ok, maybe two) hitches that are rated at more than 5,000/500
lbs in a weight carrying configuration, and I can guarantee that your
Cherokee did not come out of the factory with either one.
Most people seem to think that the limiting factor in pulling a great deal
of dead weight is the engine. "Can I pull it up a hill?". That's actually
the least of all possible worries. Think if the weight behind you and what
it takes to control it once it has achieved momentum. Think of the strain on
the transmission (can you spell tranny cooler?). Think of having to make a
sudden stop, or emergency maneuver.
Towing any significant distance is serious business, not to be taken
lightly. Make sure that your vehicle, the receiver, the hitch, etc. are
rated for the load and set up to handle it. Not doing so could cost, you,
big time.
Alan wrote in message <36A4E615...@earthlink.net>...
You are 100% correct. 3/4 ton, 454 Vortec, 4.10 ratio is what I tow with,
and it is the only Suburban rated at 10,000 pounds. Flat gets down to
business. It'll pass everything but a Chevron.
RG
>
>If you're looking for power my choices are (in this order)
>1) 1999 Ford F-350 SRW with the powerstroke diesel
>2) Same in an F-250
>3) Older FORD Powerstroke turbo diesel
>4) Dodge with the cummings 24 valve Turbo diesel (95-up?)
>
<SNIP>
Don't forget the V-10 Triton for those of us that aren't hooked on
diesels. We got better than 10mpg on the last trip towing about
5000k. This in an extended conversion van that is no lightweight on
its own.
The van is a dailly driver on an 1 mile commute and the PowerStroke
was about 4K higher than the V10 in price. It's a good, strong option
for some.....
-Ed
I am interested in this question since I am considering the purchase
of a new tow vehicle. I have a 1996 SeaRay 290DA, wt of 10,500 when
loaded with gear and fuel. I kept it in the water all last summer,
but would like to trailer it some in 99. I have a Suburban K1500 5.7L
4x4. I am considering buying new Suburban 3500 7.4L with 10,000
towing capacity. The other option is Dodge pickup, some of which are
rated 13,500 to 14,000 lbs. It is interesting that the suburbans are
mentioned much more often than the Dodge pickups which are rated to
tow much more.
Mike Crowe
I suspect you are going to find out that the Dodge 3500 "Dually"
with the Cummins diesel or the V-10 Magnum is required to tow
14,000 lbs. Not too many Burbs around set up like that.
Eisboch
My boat, trailer, etc. weighs, wet (water and fuel) weighs right about
10,000 lbs. I have towed this for short distances in a weight carrying
configuration. I upgraded the receiver to a class V receiver (Reese Titan)
rated at 8,000/800 lbs weight carrying 14,000 lbs distributing as well as a
ball and hitch rated for the weight (most balls are not rated that high
either). We redistributed the weight on the trailer to lower the tongue
weight to ~ 700 lbs, since with a 1,000 lb tongue weight the "squat" on the
tow vehicle was WAY excessive. In this configuration, the Suburban does the
job, but I would NOT tow distances like this. Even on good highways. The
feeling is that the boat is much heavier than the tow vehicle, and that it
could take control of it if something goes wrong. For trips past the local
launch ramp, I am installing a weight distributing hitch so that I can
balance the tongue weight between front/rear wheels of the tow vehicle and
the wheels of the trailer. I feel strongly that it would be unsafe any other
way.
The 7.4L has no problem with this weight, by the way. It hums happily along,
under no strain whatsoever (though acceleration is somewhat worse than
without the boat behind me :-).). Gas mileage isn't really affected much
either (about 9.5-10 vs. 11 on the highway) the engine is AWESOME in the
amount of effortless torque it puts out.
To sum up, if I were you I would seriously consider getting the pickup.
Remember, however, that those ratings are not for a "dead weight"
configuration either. With a pickup, the optimal solution would be a custom
trailer that hitches like a fifth wheel in the truck bed over the rear axle.
I know that most people will read this and shake their head thinking I am
crazy and that this is all unnecessary overkill (can you say redundant?). I
think, however, that if you talk to any professional involved in the design
and fabrication of towing equipment you will hear a story very different
from what you hear at boat dealers and the vast majority of people.
Michael J. Crowe wrote in message <36ab9fb2...@news.mindspring.com>...
>"Russ Glindmeier, CFP" <ru...@goodnet.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>Roberto Edwards wrote in message ...
>>>NO WAY a 1/2 ton suburban is rated that high. The 3/4 ton is rated at
>>10,000
>>>lbs, BUT ONLY with the 4.10 axle and 454 big block engine.
>>
>>You are 100% correct. 3/4 ton, 454 Vortec, 4.10 ratio is what I tow with,
>>and it is the only Suburban rated at 10,000 pounds. Flat gets down to
>>business. It'll pass everything but a Chevron.
>>
>>RG
>>
>>
>>
RG
> I am interested in this question since I am considering the purchase
> of a new tow vehicle. I have a 1996 SeaRay 290DA, wt of 10,500 when
> loaded with gear and fuel. I kept it in the water all last summer,
> but would like to trailer it some in 99.
When you checking into vehicles, check your local (state) laws as well. You
need a "class A" driver license to tow anything over 10,000 lbs. in CA.
What's the beam on a Sea Ray 290? If your load is going be over 8-1/2 feet
you will probably need a wide-load permit to tow it.
That is only partially true - I was going by memory back to my commercial
driver training - and my memory didn't cover certain excpetions to the rules.
I looked it up.
There is an exception for boaters. With a class C license, you can tow pretty
much any weight boat for recreational purposes or repairs IF;
1) The combined vehicle weight is less than 26,000 lbs., AND;
2) The towing is not being done under contract as a carrier, business, or
otherwise for hire, AND;
3) No oversize load permits are required. (Pretty much anything over 8-1/2
wide and/or 14 feet high needs a permit)
Otherwise - the trailer weight limits for a class C driver license in CA is
pretty much always 10,000 lbs. You can get a recreational trailer endorsement
on a class C for towing a *fifth wheel* trailer weighing over 10,000 lbs. but
less than 15,000 lbs.
-
ROBERT BOLICK AAH...@prodigy.com