disable annoying features 99 silverado

[Trace]

can anyone tell me how to do these two things on my truck? it's a 99 chevy
silverado (new body style) z71 with LS trim.

- disable the auto door locks at >15 mph. i think this is programmable on
some models, but i see nothing in my owners manual addressing.

- i need the ability to turn off my headlights at night. i don't mind the
auto-on and DRL features, but i would like to be able to turn them off at
night on boat ramps. leaving your headlights on while loading a boat makes
it very difficult for others to back down the ramp.

on the headlights, if possible, i would really prefer not to cut the wires
to the headlights & put in relays with a separate switch.

please reply-all (so i get a copy) if you will, as i am posting to several
groups. remove the _'s from my address to reply.

thanks in adv,
trace

[Daniel Stern Lighting]

On Thu, 26 Jul 2001, Trace wrote:

> can anyone tell me how to do these two things on my truck? it's a 99 chevy
> silverado (new body style) z71 with LS trim.

I *know* what one of your "annoying features" is gonna be...

> - i need the ability to turn off my headlights at night. i don't mind the
> auto-on and DRL features, but i would like to be able to turn them off at
> night on boat ramps. leaving your headlights on while loading a boat makes
> it very difficult for others to back down the ramp.
> on the headlights, if possible, i would really prefer not to cut the wires
> to the headlights & put in relays with a separate switch.

HAH! I knew it...General Motors is just bound and determined to take
control of the lighting system AWAY from owners. It's irritating as all
hell.

The automatic headlamp system is known as "Twilight Sentinel". On most
vehicles, Twilight Sentinel has been easy to override with a switch on the
dashboard. This option is not provided, however, on the new trucks,
because GM decided to have one program control the Twilight Sentinel AND
the DRLs, and it is GM's paternalistic little policy that they will not
tell you how to defeat the DRLs, which in the US are *NOT* required
equipment. This is pretty dumb, considering these trucks have DRLs
completely separate from the headlamps and they can be defeated by
removing the DRL bulbs...anyhow, I had a very interesting conversation
with an individual in the service procedures department. The pertinent
part went like this:

"Officially, GM will not discuss how to disable the automatic
headlamps. I'd like to discuss how the system works for a moment: There
is an ambient-light sensor on the top of the dashboard. Depending on the
model, these sensors are often in a speaker grille or defroster grille or
may have their own little "eye hole" panel in the top of the dash. Look
carefully and you'll find it. The way it works is that if that sensor
sees daylight, it leaves the headlamps off and turns on the DRLs. If the
light level it sees drops below a certain level, it turns off the DRLs and
turns on the headlamps. Of course, GM builds reliable systems. But in
the event the ambient light sensor fails, the system reverts to manual
operation and the driver will have to switch the headlamps manually. If
the sensor did fail, you'd certainly want to replace it. You would do
that by following the sensor replacement procedure in the factory service
manual. If you have a desire to view the manual-operation mode the system
goes into if the ambient-light sensor fails, just unplug the ambient-light
sensor. Of course, you'll want to plug it back in to restore automatic
operation."

Go find that sensor.

--Daniel

TO WRITE TO ME: Remove the headlamp from my return address.

.______DANIEL STERN LIGHTING______.
| http://lighting.mbz.org |
---
dastern "at" vrx "dot" net
Automotive Lighting and Signalling Services
NBCS b6f+wg++rp

[Ken Ross]

The DRL feature can be gotten around very easily by depressing the parking
brake one notch. This will kill the DRLs and one notch of emergency brake will
not be enough to drag the rear brakes. You could always pull the fuse for DRLs
but then they wouldn't work ever (or at least until you replaced the fuse).

[Calif Bill]

My 96 Blazer DRL's are turned off if the parking brake is engaged. Just
touch the parking brake pedal and press it one notch. My Ford Expedtion has
a dial switch next to the head light controls to turn on or off the
automatic headlighes at dark feature.
Bill

Trace <_ttrimble@_vvm._com> wrote in message
<9sX77.33418$sE4.5...@news6.giganews.com>...

[jaso...@m1ndspr1ng.nospam.com]

In rec.autos.driving Daniel Stern Lighting <das...@vrx.headlamp.net> wrote:
> manual. If you have a desire to view the manual-operation mode the system
> goes into if the ambient-light sensor fails, just unplug the ambient-light
> sensor. Of course, you'll want to plug it back in to restore automatic
> operation."
>
> Go find that sensor.

It's dead center in the dashboard, just underneath the windshield glass.
There is, as I've discussed with Daniel, an easier but repetitive way to
deal with the DRLs and automatic headlights. The Silverado should be
equiped with a "Dome Override" button to the immediate right of the
headlight switch. Push this button 4 times in succession. You'll hear a
second-long tone, and voila, your automatic lights and DRLs are now disabled
for that ignition cycle.

jas
--
Jason Van Patten
99 Corvette: MN6/Z51/JL4 with mods.
00 Silverado

[hkr...@capu.net]

Calif Bill wrote:
>
> My 96 Blazer DRL's are turned off if the parking brake is engaged. Just
> touch the parking brake pedal and press it one notch. My Ford Expedtion has
> a dial switch next to the head light controls to turn on or off the
> automatic headlighes at dark feature.
> Bill
>

Toyota Tundras also have this option. There's a Tundra user group that has
directions on how to disable it. It doesn't annoy me, so its still
operational.

--
Harry Krause
------------

PMS is a vicious cycle!

[Nathan Nagel]

I am not sure that this will work on newer vehicles. I've driven some
'03 MY prototypes that this did not kill the headlights on (really
annoying when you have it up on a lift in the garage and the shop guys
keep yelling at you "turn your lights off! you're gonna run down the
battery!) Not sure if this is the way they are going to go into
production or not.

nate

[Trace]

ok, thanks for feedback. i know where the sensor is, does it just snap out
the top of the dash? (my truck is at home or i'd go look at it)

because the DRL/auto-on features don't *generally* annoy me, i'd still like
to hear some options for temporarily overriding them. (on boat ramps, and
other times when needing to remain covert)

any ideas on the auto door locks @ >15mph? that one does annoy the hell
outta me, and just adds wear & tear to the lock mechanisms.

thx
trace

<jaso...@m1ndspr1ng.NOSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:9jpjuj$9...@dispatch.concentric.net...

[Curtis CCR]

"Trace" <_ttrimble@_vvm._com> wrote in message news:<X3Z77.33622$sE4.5...@news6.giganews.com>...

> ok, thanks for feedback. i know where the sensor is, does it just snap out
> the top of the dash? (my truck is at home or i'd go look at it)
>
> because the DRL/auto-on features don't *generally* annoy me, i'd still like
> to hear some options for temporarily overriding them. (on boat ramps, and
> other times when needing to remain covert)

If you just want to turn off the headlights on the ramp to avoid
glaring others, etc., can you just turn on the parking lights? I
haven't owned a GM car with DRLs, but I think I recall in rentals that
the DRLs go out when the parking lights are on.

If you want the car to be "dark", then I guess just partially engaging
the parking brake would work as a temporary overide.

> any ideas on the auto door locks @ >15mph? that one does annoy the hell
> outta me, and just adds wear & tear to the lock mechanisms.

I have those on my Explorer but I don't mind it. I don't know how to
overide it (never checked the book) - on my T-bird, you enter a code
on the keyless entry system to disable it, IIRC.

While it doesn't help you... the locks on my Explorer don't work
based on speed, they work with the brakes. Once I put the car in gear
(forward or reverse) the doors will lock when I take my foot OFF the
brake pedal. The only annoying part of this for me is ... sometimes
(usually when I leave a rest stop on a freeway) I may put the car in
gear and start moving without touching the brakes. There has been
than one time that the doors did not lock until I got to a freeway off
ramp over 100 miles later. They do a lotta good then... I guess.

[shiden]

"Trace" wrote

> can anyone tell me how to do these two things on my truck? it's a 99
chevy
> silverado (new body style) z71 with LS trim.
>
> - disable the auto door locks at >15 mph. i think this is programmable on
> some models, but i see nothing in my owners manual addressing.

I think you got some good suggestions for your lighting problem. The
automatic (rolling) door locks have to be disabled through the use
of the GM scan tool (Tech 2). Here is the procedure, but you have to
have the scan tool. It appears that the procedure is covered under
your warranty, if you are still under factory warranty.

Ian

*********************************************************

Info - Disabling Automatic (Rolling) Door Lock Featur #99-08-64-003
Disabling Automatic (Rolling) Door Lock Feature (Service Procedure to
Recalibrate Body Control Module)
1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra)

Some owners of the above vehicles may request to have the Automatic
(Rolling) Door Lock feature disabled (turned off).

You can disable the Automatic (Rolling) Door Lock feature by recalibrating
the Body Control Module (BCM). Use the following procedure:

Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle.
Select Service Programming from the Tech 2 main menu screen.
Identify the vehicle (year, type, fuel system).
Select Request Information (left soft key).
Select Reprogram Existing Module. Verify the Vehicle Identification Number
(VIN).
Disconnect the Tech 2 from the vehicle.
Connect the Tech 2 to the Techline Terminal. Follow the terminal
instructions.
Select Service Programming System from the main menu.
Select Terminal to Tech 2 as the programming method.
Select Program Truck Body Controller.
Select Calibration with Automatic Door Lock Functionality Disabled.
When the action is complete, disconnect the Tech 2 from the terminal.
Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle again.
Select Service Programming from the Tech 2. Complete the vehicle ID.
Select the Program soft key (second from the left). When the Programming
Successful screen appears, press the Exit key.
Disconnect the Tech 2.
Road test the vehicle in order to confirm that the recalibration was
successful.

[slug bug]

On my 2001 z71, there's a button i have to push 2 times and it shuts off the
twilight sentinel (the thing that makes the lights come on when dark)

to shut off the door lock thingie, check again in the owners manual. you
have to turn the key on and off a couple times and then flick the turn
signal stalk a couple times to change that programming.

good luck.

"Trace" <_ttrimble@_vvm._com> wrote in message

news:9sX77.33418$sE4.5...@news6.giganews.com...

[Ripper]

That parking brake trick does not work on all GM vehicles. It was great
while it lasted, but I think they figured it out. I install alarms in new
vehicles and on some of them the lights do not go out when you hit the
parking brake. I have not seen a pattern yet, it seems to be random, but
I'll keep watching which vehicles do it.

--
Ripper
http://www.ripper1.com/
Graphics and murals by Ripper
Harley page http://www.ripper1.com/harley.htm
Camaro Page http://www.ripper1.com/f-body.htm
Picture page http://www.ripper1.com/pictures.htm
"Curtis CCR" <curt...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:3c876a96.01072...@posting.google.com...

[Ripper]

Ok,
when you get to that sensor, cut one of the wires and install a toggle
switch in series in the one wire (1 end to the sensor, the other to the car,
not across the 2 wires). You can use a tiny switch like the valet switch on
an alarm, mounted under the dash or somewhere easy to get to. This way you
can disable the sensor without having to unplug it all the time, and you can
turn it back on if and when you want to.

--
Ripper
http://www.ripper1.com/
Graphics and murals by Ripper
Harley page http://www.ripper1.com/harley.htm
Camaro Page http://www.ripper1.com/f-body.htm
Picture page http://www.ripper1.com/pictures.htm

"Trace" <_ttrimble@_vvm._com> wrote in message
news:X3Z77.33622$sE4.5...@news6.giganews.com...

[Nathan Nagel]

Do *not* do the parking brake trick unless you want to disable the ABS
as well!

nate

[Chris Phillipo]

Nathan Nagel wrote:

> Do *not* do the parking brake trick unless you want to disable the ABS
> as well!
>
> nate

Sounds like a plan.

--
_______________________________
Remove "X" from email to reply.

[Ripper]

I think the only invention worse than ABS is airbags. Both were a good idea
on paper, neither works in the real world.

--
Ripper
http://www.ripper1.com/
Graphics and murals by Ripper
Harley page http://www.ripper1.com/harley.htm
Camaro Page http://www.ripper1.com/f-body.htm
Picture page http://www.ripper1.com/pictures.htm

"Chris Phillipo" <Xcphi...@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3B637835...@ns.sympatico.ca...

[Brent Peterson]

In article <2SB87.2713$K25...@newsfeed.slurp.net>, Ripper wrote:
> I think the only invention worse than ABS is airbags. Both were a good idea
> on paper, neither works in the real world.

I would say that ABS can be bad, but doesn't have to be.

The problem is with various poor implementations of ABS for the sake
of selling ABS. I don't think ABS is really a bad thing, or a great thing,
just different with its own set of drawbacks and advantages. I have
found the advantages (for my driving) to be greater than the disadvantages
but for someone else I am sure that could be entirely the other way around.

As far as airbags go, the idea of explosive charges in the dash bothers
me. I would prefer racing developed safety measures refined for ease of
use over airbags.

[Stephan Rothstein]

Ripper wrote:
>
> I think the only invention worse than ABS is airbags. Both were a good idea
> on paper, neither works in the real world.
>

Bull. Having tested both (crash tested the air bags once), I can
honestly say that both work and work well. They should be optional
instead of mandatory equipment, but both of these inventions work.

Steve Rothstein

[Trace]

Ripper <ripper...@softhome.net> wrote in message
news:NZn87.29605$Fj3....@newsfeed.slurp.net...

> Ok,
> when you get to that sensor, cut one of the wires and install a toggle
> switch in series in the one wire (1 end to the sensor, the other to the
car,
> not across the 2 wires). You can use a tiny switch like the valet switch
on
> an alarm, mounted under the dash or somewhere easy to get to. This way you
> can disable the sensor without having to unplug it all the time, and you
can
> turn it back on if and when you want to.
>
>

why would you do that instead of putting a relay in series on the power wire
to the lights themselves?

in general i don't like fooling with wires that may be hooked directly to
the computer. also, that may tell the DRLs to come back on. IMO it seems
to make more sense to let the sensor stay engaged, (think it's dark outside)
and kill the circuit downstream.

trace

[C.R. Krieger]

"Ripper" <ripper...@softhome.net> wrote in message

news:2SB87.2713$K25...@newsfeed.slurp.net...

> I think the only invention worse than ABS is airbags. Both were a good
idea
> on paper, neither works in the real world.

Oh. So EVERYONE you know can threshold brake? In the rain?

Yeah; right.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Yes, I can.)
"Don't argue with 'em, dear; they're beneath our dignity." - W.C. Fields

[nmoberg]

On Mon, 30 Jul 2001 11:01:20 -0500, "C.R. Krieger"
<war...@lakefieldDOT.net> wrote:

>"Ripper" <ripper...@softhome.net> wrote in message
>news:2SB87.2713$K25...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
>> I think the only invention worse than ABS is airbags. Both were a good
>idea
>> on paper, neither works in the real world.
>
>Oh. So EVERYONE you know can threshold brake? In the rain?
>
>Yeah; right.

Other than greedy insurance companies I have never known anybody that
actually has any real driving experience attack ABS brakes. Of course
that excludes the GM $10.00 version and some the really old low cycle
types.

[kasey...@gmail.com]

The head lights can be turned off by clicking the dome override 2 or 3 times fast

[John H.]

On Tue, 29 May 2018 09:39:10 -0700 (PDT), kasey...@gmail.com wrote:

>The head lights can be turned off by clicking the dome override 2 or 3 times fast

That right there is good to know.

[Bill]

My 2004, just Tuen the headlight switch to the extreme left and the
headlights will go off until you repeat. Or restart the truck.

[John H.]

That's the way my 2009 is.

[Mr. Luddite]

Same on mine (2017). Turns the "automatic headlights" function off.

BTW .. don't know if you guys looked at the header on that post.
It's responding to something posted in 2002.

[Mr. Luddite]

Also disables the daytime running lights. Those things drive me
nuts. For some reason half the GM trucks I see on the road during
the daytime have them on but one of them is obviously burned out.

[True North]

16:28Mr. Luddite
- show quoted text -

"Also disables the daytime running lights. Those things drive me
nuts. For some reason half the GM trucks I see on the road during
the daytime have them on but one of them is obviously burned out."

Daytime running light are a safety requirement up here.
You turn them off at your own peril. In fact, Im surprised you can.

[John H.]

We figured it wasn't too new!

[John H.]

USAA gives a discount for automatic daytime running lights. I leave my switch on automatic unless
there's some reason I don't want the lights on.

[Mr. Luddite]

They are not required to be on in the USA. By default they turn
on when you start the truck but I can shut them off by twisting
the spring loaded headlight knob briefly to the left.

On other types of vehicles it isn't so easy to do.

Why is it a "peril" to drive in broad daylight without them on?

The whole thing about daytime running lights started up your way.

[Mr. Luddite]

I turn mine off because I don't feel like replacing a burned out bulb
every six months. As I mentioned before, for some reason I see many
GM trucks driving around with one of the daylight running lights out.

How does USAA know if you use them or disable them? Or is it an
automatic discount just because you have them?

I think virtually all new vehicles have them now.

[John H.]

It's an automatic discount if the vehicle is equipped with them. I could shut them off. But, I've
had the truck for nine years now and haven't burned out a bulb yet.

[True North]

17:01Mr. Luddite

- show quoted text -

"They are not required to be on in the USA. By default they turn
on when you start the truck but I can shut them off by twisting
the spring loaded headlight knob briefly to the left.

On other types of vehicles it isn't so easy to do.

Why is it a "peril" to drive in broad daylight without them on?

The whole thing about daytime running lights started up your way."

The peril since 2009 would be a fine in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Fine for first offence was $164.50 in NS. Not sure what it is now.
2nd and 3rd offences are around $330.00
Makes it much easier to see other vehicles approaching on the highway.

[Keyser Soze]

I always thought it was a way for the manufacturers of car headlight
bulbs to sell more bulbs, as leaving them on all the time will shorten
their lives. :)

[gfre...@aol.com]

I wondered about that myself. I thought I was the only one with a 20th
century vehicle ;-)

[gfre...@aol.com]

It also might mean the difference between making it home or to a
service station with a bad alternator or being stranded on the side of
the road.

[Its Me]

They don't used the same bulb as the headlight, dimwit.

[Mr. Luddite]

Are you sure? I thought some worked by putting a ballast resistor in
series with the regular headlight. The voltage drop across the resistor
causes the headlight to burn more dimly.

[Its Me]

None of the modern ones I've noticed lately do that. Some older ones may, I suppose. The GM truck lights that you mentioned don't use the headlight bulbs. It seems that anything made in the last few years uses LEDs in some bar or pattern, like the Audi's and Mercs have done for a while. Everyone has seemingly adopted that style, including the Japanese and Korean makers.

[Mr. Luddite]

I just check on this. Turns out the GMC lighting system (at least on
the Canyon SLT and Denali) was changed at some point. I have LED lights
in bars above and below the actual headlight (which GMC calls a
"projector"). The projector is also a high output LED within a lens
assembly and is switched for high beams/low beams.
No mention of "aiming" or alignment like in the old days of high and
low beams. Maybe it's done by selectively turning on and off the
small individual LED's that make up the LED bulb relative to the
reflector behind it.

The daytime running lights is called "DRL" but my
truck doesn't have a separate bulb for it. It's a "system" according to
GMC, not a specific bulb.

Anyway, when I let the DRL system run the "projector" LED is on as well
as the LED bars above and below the projector.

Then I checked the cost of a new complete "system". Over two grand!

I think I'll turn them off in the daytime.

[Alex]

More and more are LED. Mine are rings around the headlights.

[gfre...@aol.com]

If these bulbs are running at reduced voltage they should last a lot
longer.

[gfre...@aol.com]

What ever happened to the good old sealed beam? They were $5 at the
drug store. You replaced them with 3 screws. No alignment necessary. I
guess nobody could make money with that stuff.
The ironic thing is they got rid of them just about the time that high
output quartz halogen ones were coming on line.

[Its Me]

The good news is, you can burn out one, two or maybe a dozen individual LEDs and the light output reduction will be minimal. Depending on where they burn out, it will only be noticeable if you're "anal".

But yeah, the new high-tech comes at a high price. Hell, have you priced a headlight *lense* on a less than 10 year old car with HID XEONs? Hold on to your ass...

[Mr. Luddite]

Yes, and I think that was the idea originally.

Turns out mine are 100 percent LED. Last longer than filaments but
expensive to replace when they eventually go out.

[John H.]

Mine must just be too damn old. But, I figure it'll last 'til I die.

[Mr. Luddite]

We've apparently gone through the quartz halogen phase and are now
big time into LED lights. I remember many years ago I designed
control consoles using bi and tri colored LED's as indicators instead
of little incandescent bulbs or neon. I was asked at the time if
LED's would ever be used for lighting. I said, "Nah, they will never
be powerful enough". Boy, was I wrong.

One thing I've noticed with the LED headlights on my truck. I often get
on coming cars flashing their high beams at night at me, thinking I have
my high beams on. I don't. I rarely use the high beams.

[Its Me]

You completely skipped over Xenon. HID light ruled for a number of years between halogen and LED.

[Bill]

John H. <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 29 May 2018 15:28:06 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" <nowa...@nowhere.net> wrote:
>
>> On 5/29/2018 3:06 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
>>> On 5/29/2018 2:24 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>> John H. <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> On Tue, 29 May 2018 09:39:10 -0700 (PDT), kasey...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> The head lights can be turned off by clicking the dome override 2 or
>>>>>> 3 times fast
>>>>>
>>>>> That right there is good to know.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My 2004, just Tuen the headlight switch to the extreme left and the
>>>> headlights will go off until you repeat.  Or restart the truck.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Same on mine (2017).  Turns the "automatic headlights" function off.
>>>
>>> BTW .. don't know if you guys looked at the header on that post.
>>> It's responding to something posted in 2002.
>>>
>>
>> Also disables the daytime running lights. Those things drive me
>> nuts. For some reason half the GM trucks I see on the road during
>> the daytime have them on but one of them is obviously burned out.
>>
>>
>
> USAA gives a discount for automatic daytime running lights. I leave my
> switch on automatic unless
> there's some reason I don't want the lights on.
>

I have to use the off feature when on a launch ramp at night. Do not want
to blind other ramp users. Depress the parking break a little bit and the
DRL’s turn off.

[Bill]

I had to replace one since 2004. I like them. We get for and dust storms
here. And twilight helps warn other drivers.

[Bill]

My wife’s Venza in for new wheel bearings and they said they are replacing
the halon lights with LEDs.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Tue, 29 May 2018 17:27:53 -0700 (PDT), Its Me <345...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>The good news is, you can burn out one, two or maybe a dozen individual LEDs and the light output reduction will be minimal. Depending on where they burn out, it will only be noticeable if you're "anal".
>

I bet you find out pretty quickly, they are in series and when one
goes, that whole string goes. The only question is how many LEDs are
in a string.

>But yeah, the new high-tech comes at a high price. Hell, have you priced a headlight *lense* on a less than 10 year old car with HID XEONs? Hold on to your ass...

The parking light lens on my old Sport Trak was over $50 and that is
just a little plastic box with one light bulb in it. (bulb and holder
not included)

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Tue, 29 May 2018 20:50:23 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"

They were waiting for blue so they could get white. The one we were
really waiting for was the System 360 console bulb and red yellow or
green was not going to get it. that console bulb was a pretty good
design and they came in 4.5, 6, 10 and 24 volts with a different color
base so you could tell them apart. The only one that ever made it to
LED was the 24v in red because those burned out the fastest.
On those old 360 consoles with hundreds of lights we were replacing
them by the box tho.

[Its Me]

On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 10:28:43 PM UTC-4, gfre...@aol.com wrote:
> On Tue, 29 May 2018 17:27:53 -0700 (PDT), Its Me <345...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >The good news is, you can burn out one, two or maybe a dozen individual LEDs and the light output reduction will be minimal. Depending on where they burn out, it will only be noticeable if you're "anal".
> >
>
> I bet you find out pretty quickly, they are in series and when one
> goes, that whole string goes. The only question is how many LEDs are
> in a string.

Early ones, yes. Technology has moved one. ;-)

[Mr. Luddite]

I was looking at some retrofit LED bulbs for my truck last night. You
can buy replacements that will display many colors with different light
patterns from flashing to alternating back and forth in white, blue,
red, green, etc. They operate from an app you install in your phone.
Illegal, I am sure.

[Mr. Luddite]

On 5/29/2018 10:49 PM, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

> On Tue, 29 May 2018 20:50:23 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"

>>

>> We've apparently gone through the quartz halogen phase and are now
>> big time into LED lights. I remember many years ago I designed
>> control consoles using bi and tri colored LED's as indicators instead
>> of little incandescent bulbs or neon. I was asked at the time if
>> LED's would ever be used for lighting. I said, "Nah, they will never
>> be powerful enough". Boy, was I wrong.
>>
> They were waiting for blue so they could get white. The one we were
> really waiting for was the System 360 console bulb and red yellow or
> green was not going to get it. that console bulb was a pretty good
> design and they came in 4.5, 6, 10 and 24 volts with a different color
> base so you could tell them apart. The only one that ever made it to
> LED was the 24v in red because those burned out the fastest.
> On those old 360 consoles with hundreds of lights we were replacing
> them by the box tho.
>

When I decided I wanted to use LEDs in control consoles I did so because
I wanted to indicate the condition of a valve or pump in terms of on or
off. At the time (back in the late 80's) tradition was a bulb was
illuminated if the component was "on" and not illuminated when "off".

Using bi-colored LEDs I could have green if on and red if off by
simply reversing the applied DC voltage to the LED. If you applied
AC they would be yellow in color.

After a while I figured out a way of changing the colors without having
to use any switching network by establishing a fake "ground" potential
that was actually at about 12 volts. The 24 volt DC output modules on
the Programmable Controllers could then control the LED color directly.
Just had to use a voltage dropping and current limiting resistor for
each LED.

[gfre...@aol.com]

I do a similar thing with the gauge monitor on my boat. I am using a
voltage divider to establish one end of the LED at ~6-8v so if the
output of the monitor is OK the LED is green and it turns red of the
monitor flips state (just an Op amp acting as a comparator looking at
the voltage going to the gauges)

[Its Me]

Probably only if someone is dumb enough to drive down the road with them flashing like that! The ones I don't like is the high color temp purple lights. Fortunately, the kids around here seem to have either grown out of that or finally figured out they suck at being headlights.

Speaking of that, one thing you can say about Xenon and now LED headlight is that they are usually damn good headlights if designed properly. The Audi had the best headlights I've ever experienced. They projected a long way even on low beam, and had a sharp cutoff at the top to prevent blinding the oncoming traffic. They are also steerable, so they move side-to-side when cornering to light up the curve in the road. The Cayenne has cornering lights that light up when you turn the wheel a certain amount. It lights up the curb. They've come a long way from the old yellow sealed beams.

[Mr. Luddite]

I agree. The Canyon doesn't have "steerable" lights but other vehicles
I have owned did. One thing I've noticed is that even on dark nights on
back roads, I rarely need high beams. The low beams are plenty bright
even though they "aim" a bit over to the right to avoid blinding on
coming traffic.

[John H.]

I use the high beams on the back roads as much as possible just to get an early glimpse of any deer
wanting to get run over.

[John H.]

I've put a string 5 meters long on my 5th wheel right under the awning. That was a few years back.
So far so good. But, I've seen strings on other rigs that have lost an LED here and there, but the
rest of the string stays lit. Not like Christmas tree strings!

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Wed, 30 May 2018 11:15:49 -0400, John H. <salmo...@gmail.com>

LED rope light comes in strings around 18-20" and if you cut it there
or just lose one LED you lose that whole section. Incandescent is the
same way. I have a bunch of it around here.

[John H.]

Maybe we're talking different things. I'm talking about LED strips, and I've seen strips with one or
more LEDs out, but the rest of the strip is working fine.

[Its Me]

Yes, you guys are talking about two different products. Greg's rope lighting is inside a plastic tube, and you can only cut it at specific places (i.e. every 18") or you will lose that whole section.

The LED strip lighting you are talking about can usually be cut every three LED's (at least the ones I'm familiar with) which is only a couple of inches. You can lose a single LED and the rest continue to work.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Wed, 30 May 2018 09:34:24 -0700 (PDT), Its Me <345...@gmail.com>

Yup different stuff. The rope is a whole lot cheaper tho and pretty
tough.

[John H.]

Thanks.

[Alex]

Those bulbs made everyone go out and buy Torx drivers!

[Alex]

Under warranty or a recall?

[Bill]

Just to get better light. I replaced the wife’s Venza headlights and
still not as bright as I think they should be.

[gfre...@aol.com]

I already had them. IBM was using a 6 flute Bristol that is basically
Torx but we were also early adopters of the actual Torx. I had Torx
bits in my bag during the Carter administration.

[Alex]

I had to buy one for my late 80's Honda CRX.

I see them called "six-lobe" sometimes. Maybe Torx is trademarked?

[gfre...@aol.com]

There are several proprietary 6 flute screw heads, Bristol and Torx
being 2 but I have some roof tile screws that talk about another
"drive" and they include the bit in the box. It is a little different
than the other 2.
Everyone seems to have a better idea. ;-)