Mercury 175 Sport Jet Oil Warnig
xx
monitors the drive shaft rotation, in which the plastic worm gear has
failed. (a mercury known problem, SVC. BLTN. 2000-10) I've got a
scheduled appointment at the dealer, but its not for another month away.
I was told by Merc that I could run the boat, if I premixed the gas and
oil. I was also told by merc that I could disable the warning buzzer but
clipping the wire atop the secondary oil tank on the motor. (not the 2
gallon reserve tank) I dont believe this, as all that sensor monitors is
oil level, and the secondary tank has oil in it. I believe there is a
secondary sensor that monitors the drive shaft rpm's, and thats what I
need to clip. Can anyone point me in the right direction here? Larry?
Mark Turner
Larry W4CSC
the oil pump drive shaft on the port side of the engine feeding the
computer mounted on the starboard side of the engine. It must be
looking for pulses coming from the sensor to hold off the alarm.
If this drive is not turning, the only thing that could cause it is if
the worm gear driving it....mounted on the crankshaft has stripped
out, or come loose. This would mean to me there are little pieces of
worm gear guts floating around inside one of the crankcases, the one
with the worm gear in it. I sure wouldn't run it like that until
someone pulled it apart for a look. Little pieces of wormgear getting
into little needle bearing races sounds REALLY expensive to me!
larry....
J. Hill
Jet and am currently having it repaired. They are going to have to tear
down the whole engine to check the internals.
I too called Mercury and they seemed awfully complacent about the whole
thing...strange when you think of what an oil shortage can do to a
2-cycle engine.
I ran it back to the dock while it was intermittently beeping (every 2
mins or so) so am concerned about engine damage.
The oil tank float sensor is a different device than the crank shaft
sensor, so how would cutting the float sensor elimate the beeping for
the crank shaft sensor? By the way, the oil tank sensor can be
unplugged (following the wires) which would do the same thing as cutting
it, wouldn't it? We tried that, and we got a constant beeping. What
you really want to do is to ground the blue wire (I think it is...I
can't check since my boat is in the shop). This will bypass the float
sensor but will do nothing for the crankshaft sensor. I'm not sure how
to get around the crank sensor. If I were you, I would take the painful
approach to the problem: park it until the shop checks it. Like Larry
said, there might be a piece of gear bouncing around in there. Plus, if
there's any engine damage, you might be partially responsible.
Jeff H.
P.S. If I were you, in the future I would strongly suggest premixing
some oil in the gas tank to give the engine some extra lubrication which
might help if you encounter another oil injection problem. I learned
that from this newsgroup and am hoping it has saved me a fried engine
(THANKS LARRY)
xx
> DO NOT RUN YOUR ENGINE. I just lost my oil injection on my Merc 175 HP
> Jet and am currently having it repaired. They are going to have to tear
> down the whole engine to check the internals.
> I too called Mercury and they seemed awfully complacent about the whole
> thing...strange when you think of what an oil shortage can do to a
> 2-cycle engine.
> I ran it back to the dock while it was intermittently beeping (every 2
> mins or so) so am concerned about engine damage.
> The oil tank float sensor is a different device than the crank shaft
> sensor, so how would cutting the float sensor elimate the beeping for
> the crank shaft sensor? By the way, the oil tank sensor can be
> unplugged (following the wires) which would do the same thing as cutting
> it, wouldn't it? We tried that, and we got a constant beeping. What
> you really want to do is to ground the blue wire (I think it is...I
> can't check since my boat is in the shop). This will bypass the float
> sensor but will do nothing for the crankshaft sensor. I'm not sure how
> to get around the crank sensor. If I were you, I would take the painful
> approach to the problem: park it until the shop checks it. Like Larry
> said, there might be a piece of gear bouncing around in there. Plus, if
> there's any engine damage, you might be partially responsible.
> Jeff H.
>
running the boat this weekend.... Im running premix... remember that
stuff, thats pre oil injection stuff! :) I've never had it over heat, and
thats what it would do if I didnt run any oil in it. Boat going in shop
at the end of the month. I was personally told by MERC that it would be
FINE to run the boat, if I just used premix. So, seeing as its the 4th,
thats whatI plan on doing! Anyway, If I could find the wire to the crank
sensor it would make my day! As for the plastic chunks of gear.. those
have been vaccumed out, by a *akk* non-merc service shop. Once again,
Help Please, LARRY! I wouldnt be concerned about 2 min. of running
without oil, as long as it wasent WOT!
Mark
Larry W4CSC
wrote:
>
>P.S. If I were you, in the future I would strongly suggest premixing
>some oil in the gas tank to give the engine some extra lubrication which
>might help if you encounter another oil injection problem. I learned
>that from this newsgroup and am hoping it has saved me a fried engine
>(THANKS LARRY)
>
Much to Harry's dismay, I continue to run 60:1 premix PLUS the oil
injection in my '97 175 Sport Jet. If you are doing the same thing,
you may have saved the engine. 60:1 if the injection completely stops
would probably be just fine to run in it. Variable oil injection runs
100:1 at idle down to 50:1 at WOT. Dammit, I wanna see a little SMOKE
from my 2-cycle engines! There's supposed to be OIL burning in there,
ya know! Hope your engine is ok. I think, with these revelations, I
might pull the oil pump off the drive and see if my drive at 600+
hours is still nice an tight on the worm gears. Couldn't hurt....(c;
If you guys want to do away with this problem, your Merc dealer has
LOTS of FREE oil pump blockoff plates! He gets them on every block he
orders from Mercury and throws them in a box. He can simply take the
drive gear and oil pump off the engine, pulling the worm drive gear
out of the crankcase, then put the blockoff plate over the hole so
that cylinder crankcase is resealed. I know of two running strictly
premix this way and it runs fine. The dealers know how to disable the
oil alarms.
For information, the wormgear in the crankcase isn't the only wormgear
you need to check. The oil pump, also, has a plastic worm gear in it!
The metering pump, itself, turns very slowly after these two big gear
reductions. I'm told if the oil pump's worm gears freeze, it will
damage the primary worm gears on the crankshaft. So, you need to make
sure the pump drive turns very smoothly before reassembling the pump
to the drive coupler. It's a simple Oldham coupler so it wouldn't
hurt to take the oil pump off and check both ends at that point from
time to time. What concerned me was that the rotation sensor is in
the block, watching the oil drive shaft turn. If the worm gears
inside the pump were to strip out or the pump, itself, stop
pumping....you never know it until the bearings or pistons seized.
The shaft under the sensor might still be turning when the pump wasn't
pumping. There's gotta be a better way, but it's a LOT better than a
jetski where you never know when it's out of oil or not pumping at
all.
Larry....600+ hours on light premix plus oil injection.....without a
single failure or even new spark plugs! I gotta be doin' something
right....(c;
Larry W4CSC
>Yeah, its the crank sensor that I need to disable... And I fully plan on
>running the boat this weekend.... Im running premix... remember that
>stuff, thats pre oil injection stuff! :) I've never had it over heat, and
>thats what it would do if I didnt run any oil in it. Boat going in shop
>at the end of the month. I was personally told by MERC that it would be
>FINE to run the boat, if I just used premix. So, seeing as its the 4th,
>thats whatI plan on doing! Anyway, If I could find the wire to the crank
>sensor it would make my day! As for the plastic chunks of gear.. those
>have been vaccumed out, by a *akk* non-merc service shop. Once again,
>Help Please, LARRY! I wouldnt be concerned about 2 min. of running
>without oil, as long as it wasent WOT!
>
>
>Mark
>
"Vacuumed out"?? How's he gonna do that?? We're talking about a worm
gear that's INSIDE the crankcase.....as in pull the powerhead off,
open the crankcase and check all the bearings inside the one crankcase
where the wormgear is. If there were any grindings off that wormgear,
which is metal by the way, those grindings would fall into the grooved
seal that separates the crankcase the worm gear is in from the
cylinder crankcase below it. It's a 2-stroke! Each crankcase is
separated from the ones next to it! If those grindings got in that
sealing groove and ate it out, your BLOCK IS TOAST. Of course, that
might be a good excuse to order the 260hp EFI power head SeaDoo is
running...(c; But, it would be EXPENSIVE!
Nope....I disagree with just going out and running the boat.
Something came apart inside that crankcase! That something is STILL
floating around in there or you would have seen it come through the
piston or head if it got sucked up into the transfer port and into the
combustion chamber. I'd hate to think there's a metal chunk still
sitting inside there that COULD bet blown up through the transfer port
into the squish clearance between the piston and
head.....Yecch.....BOOM! NO ENGINE!
Let's save us $4000 and NOT run the engine until someone OPENS THE
CRANKCASE and cleans out the little metal shavings, ok? It's gonna be
NO FUN to be stranded with a blown motor! Those little grindings
could ALREADY be wedged between the piston rings and the gouged up
cylinder walls! Yecch.....I'm gonna be sick!
larry.....More beer won't help it, either.....been there, done that.
J. Hill
side of mixing your pre-mix...like maybe 40:1. Can you tell me how the
shop vacuumed out your gear parts? Did they tear down the engine? By
the way, I would be wary of "Merc" advice- why would they put a plastic
gear on such an important part of a boat engine?
The wires going to the crankshaft sensor are on the port side of the
engine, leading out of a harness on the top of the engine down towards
the oil pump. I don't know if you would be better off without the
sensor, since I thought they were wired so that it would go off
continously if the wires were cut as a safeguard.
How did your oil pump failure incident start and how did you get it back
to the dock? Oh well, if you don't answer this, being the 4th of July
weekend that means you're out using it.
J. Hill
xx wrote:
>
> In article <395C1F...@now.com>, jhic...@cswnet.com says...
> > DO NOT RUN YOUR ENGINE. I just lost my oil injection on my Merc 175 HP
> > Jet and am currently having it repaired. They are going to have to tear
> > down the whole engine to check the internals.
> > I too called Mercury and they seemed awfully complacent about the whole
> > thing...strange when you think of what an oil shortage can do to a
> > 2-cycle engine.
> > I ran it back to the dock while it was intermittently beeping (every 2
> > mins or so) so am concerned about engine damage.
> > The oil tank float sensor is a different device than the crank shaft
> > sensor, so how would cutting the float sensor elimate the beeping for
> > the crank shaft sensor? By the way, the oil tank sensor can be
> > unplugged (following the wires) which would do the same thing as cutting
> > it, wouldn't it? We tried that, and we got a constant beeping. What
> > you really want to do is to ground the blue wire (I think it is...I
> > can't check since my boat is in the shop). This will bypass the float
> > sensor but will do nothing for the crankshaft sensor. I'm not sure how
> > to get around the crank sensor. If I were you, I would take the painful
> > approach to the problem: park it until the shop checks it. Like Larry
> > said, there might be a piece of gear bouncing around in there. Plus, if
> > there's any engine damage, you might be partially responsible.
> > Jeff H.
> >
hkr...@capu.net
> Much to Harry's dismay, I continue to run 60:1 premix PLUS the oil
> injection in my '97 175 Sport Jet.
No, Larry, I am not dismayed that you add to the pollution of the waters in your
area and leave a cloud of smoke behind you. After all, how else would the guys
in the black helicopters be able to follow you around?
In fact, the cloud probably makes you feel warm and fuzzy. Don't you leave a
cloud of smoke behind your 1873 Mercedes diesel when you clunk on down the road?
> Larry....600+ hours on light premix plus oil injection.....without a
> single failure or even new spark plugs! I gotta be doin' something
> right....
What might that be? It sure isn't recommending computer firewall software,
computers, operating systems, cars or boats.
--
Harry Krause
------------
If at first you don't succeed, call it Ver. 1
J. Hill
give the engine a little "extra" lubrication but not to completely
replace the oil from the oil injection. So, I only was pre-mixing about
1 ounce of oil to the gallon (about a 128:1 ratio). We just got the boat
used so I was just playing around with the pre-mix at the time to see if
I was smoking too much. That's why I went a little light on the mix.
On my old Force 120jet, I went a little heavier.
So THAT is what I am worried about...whether the 128:1 ratio was enough
to pick up the slack when the oil injection quit. It's getting torn down
to check everything.
Good idea to check your worm gears to see if they're doing ok. With your
slightly rich pre-mix, you should be in good shape if the injection
system lets go- except for the worm gear bouncing around in there that
is.
As far as the worm gears inside the pump, Merc is sending a new pump so
I "should" be ok. I also wish the oil injection system monitored the oil
OUTPUT instead of the power INPUT to the pump. Seems much more
practical.
Jeff H.
Larry W4CSC wrote:
>
> On Thu, 29 Jun 2000 23:16:08 -0500, "J. Hill" <jhic...@cswnet.com>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >P.S. If I were you, in the future I would strongly suggest premixing
> >some oil in the gas tank to give the engine some extra lubrication which
> >might help if you encounter another oil injection problem. I learned
> >that from this newsgroup and am hoping it has saved me a fried engine
> >(THANKS LARRY)
> >
> Much to Harry's dismay, I continue to run 60:1 premix PLUS the oil
> Larry....600+ hours on light premix plus oil injection.....without a
> single failure or even new spark plugs! I gotta be doin' something
> right....(c;
J. Hill
shavings....? :) Yikes. My mechanic told me he doesn't expect to find
anything abnormal when he opens mine up. I'm a little more pessimistic,
since I'm going to be the one paddling home if there is some small
undetected something inside there.
By the way, I'm already sick- get me a shrink! Better yet, a brand new
engine.
Jeff H.
Larry W4CSC wrote:
>
> On Fri, 30 Jun 2000 02:19:12 -0700, xx <ski...@excite.com> wrote:
>
> >Yeah, its the crank sensor that I need to disable... And I fully plan on
> >running the boat this weekend.... Im running premix... remember that
> >stuff, thats pre oil injection stuff! :) I've never had it over heat, and
> >thats what it would do if I didnt run any oil in it. Boat going in shop
> >at the end of the month. I was personally told by MERC that it would be
> >FINE to run the boat, if I just used premix. So, seeing as its the 4th,
> >thats whatI plan on doing! Anyway, If I could find the wire to the crank
> >sensor it would make my day! As for the plastic chunks of gear.. those
> >have been vaccumed out, by a *akk* non-merc service shop. Once again,
> >Help Please, LARRY! I wouldnt be concerned about 2 min. of running
> >without oil, as long as it wasent WOT!
> >
> >
> >Mark
> >
J. Hill
Just think: I got rid of my Force120SportJet that I thought might give
me reliability problems down the road but never did for a supposedly
bulletproof Merc175 Sportjet. The Force was the engine that was supposed
to act up, not the V-6. And yes I can imagine what one shaving will do
to a cylinder wall...SCREEEEEECH.
That is why the technician is going to look the engine over with a fine
tooth comb. The finest teeth you can get, I hope. He's waiting on the
parts right now but I should be back on the water next weekend..unless
he finds something bad in there.
Jeff H.
Larry W4CSC wrote:
>
> On Fri, 30 Jun 2000 14:16:18 -0500, "J. Hill" <n...@now.com> wrote:
> Are we, per chance, under warranty?....(c;
>
> Just askin'.......(sigh).....
>
> Can you imagine what ONE shaving can do to, say, crankcase bearings?
> cylinder walls scoring? Yecch....
>
> I need another beer.....
> larry
Larry W4CSC
>Man, did you have to put those gory details in there about those metal
>shavings....? :) Yikes. My mechanic told me he doesn't expect to find
>anything abnormal when he opens mine up. I'm a little more pessimistic,
>since I'm going to be the one paddling home if there is some small
>undetected something inside there.
>By the way, I'm already sick- get me a shrink! Better yet, a brand new
>engine.
>Jeff H.
>
Larry W4CSC
>No luck on the warranty-bought the Tango used about a month ago.
>Just think: I got rid of my Force120SportJet that I thought might give
>me reliability problems down the road but never did for a supposedly
>bulletproof Merc175 Sportjet. The Force was the engine that was supposed
>to act up, not the V-6. And yes I can imagine what one shaving will do
>to a cylinder wall...SCREEEEEECH.
>That is why the technician is going to look the engine over with a fine
>tooth comb. The finest teeth you can get, I hope. He's waiting on the
>parts right now but I should be back on the water next weekend..unless
>he finds something bad in there.
>Jeff H.
>
If I hear many more stories like this, I'm going to have him remove
the oil pump, oil pump drive, block off the hole and simply go to
premix which always works. I even get to control the lube on my
engine, which I think is a better way, anyways......
Sorry to hear you had trouble......
larry
While we're worrying, check to see if your big pump zinc between the
two lower bolts under the main nozzle has been changed out to one that
has stainless steel inserts in it. It's the only recall on the 175
sport jet. The original zinc didn't have inserts and when the zinc
got eaten away it let the pump bolts come loose, ruining the pump
bearings. Worth a check to unbolt the bolts and check. Locktite 'em
when you put 'em back. Book says 35 lb-ft torque if you got a wrench.
J. Hill
Besides the zincs recall on the 175 SportJet, there was another recent
"event" concerning the 175V-6. I'm not sure if it was a bonifide recall
or a "service bulletin" or what. It has to do with a possibly bad
"coupler" which is located on the infamous oil injection system. The
mechanic that worked on mine said he had to replace a "coupler or
bearing" between the crank and the oil injection. He speculated that the
magnet located on the coupler might not be permanentally attached...or
some such as that. The recall was only for a certain group of serial
numbers which I don't have handy right now. If Mercury doesn't notify
you, then your engine might not have the "problem coupler".
By the way, the guy I bought our boat from said he had the zinc inserts
changed but it didn't show up on the Merc computer as being done so I
guess I'll just check it myself and change it should it need it.
Jeff H.
Larry W4CSC
numbers in question and post them as soon as I get them......
Larry
Ran out $25 in gas yesterday at the beach. Some guy in a new Yamaha
SUV PWC said I was lucky...(c;
Larry W4CSC
wrote:
>Thanks for the info! I'll bump Merc Wednesday to check those serial
>numbers in question and post them as soon as I get them......
>
>Larry
>Ran out $25 in gas yesterday at the beach. Some guy in a new Yamaha
>SUV PWC said I was lucky...(c;
>
No need to call Merc. My recall notice was in my box at the post
office....dammit. Now I gotta find a dealer who can do it in less
than 10 months.
Time to say bye bye to oil injection and go back to premix which
always works! Then, I can run 40:1 all the time, even at idle, which
is better for the engine even if the oil injection is functioning
properly.
larry....KISS KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID!
DAMN AMERICANS AND THEIR PLASTIC GEARS!
xx
> the oil pump, oil pump drive, block off the hole and simply go to
> premix which always works. I even get to control the lube on my
> engine, which I think is a better way, anyways......
>
> Sorry to hear you had trouble......
>
> larry
>
As an update to my problems... I did, indeed go out this weekend (the
4th) and ran probably 75 gallons of gas through it on premix. (50:1)
No problems with it, other than that @#@$ continual beeping, which I
"fixed" (a band-aid fix) by wrapping a rag around the beeper under the
dash, and duct taping it! I didn't want to totally cut the wire, because
if it overheated, I wanted to know about it. It reduced the beeping to
about 1/2 or less the original level, and that was acceptable. I've got
an appointment with the shop at the end of this month. Last Friday, I
received my coupler bearing recall notice. Svc Bltn 2000-10.
it reads the following:
"we will reimburse the authorized dealer for the replacement of the
coupler/bearing in line with the service bulletin.
blah bhah blah... *snip*"
BUT! the question is, if the gear melted and ate up something else,
causing damage, that damage better be covered. the original shop owner
that I first took it to said he would have to pull the motor, and replace
the plastic gear, which would cost ME about $1500 because he had to pull
the motor, and about 12 hours of labor. BUT this recall sounds like its
a 1/2 hour job! Now, the shop owner spoke with merc, and indeed it is a
recall, so it will be free to me. But something still isn't making sense
here... I have an authorized shop appointment on the 29th. One more
question, is this Coupler/bearing recall a fix, or just a replacement of
the same broken part, with another not yet, but will be broken part in
the future?
Mark
"the light at the end of the tunnel is just a freight train coming your
way" -- Metallica
xx
WMPARKER
a rat-a-tat-tat sound. Has the 150hp had the same problem as the 175 V-6
problem in this thread? Do I have any recourse with Mercury? (Its not in an
extended warranty).
Larry W4CSC
> One more
>question, is this Coupler/bearing recall a fix, or just a replacement of
>the same broken part, with another not yet, but will be broken part in
>the future?
>
>Mark
I'm afraid of that to, given the track record of recalls on American
products. So, I'm going to have the oil injection removed and go to
running premix, exclusively, which will solve the problem. Dealers
have a block-off plate that comes with every new block from Merc that
will seal the hole left when the driveshaft and oil pump have been
removed. I have one on my desk.
A side benefit to this is YOU get to choose the oil lube ratio for the
engine. I've always run 60:1 premix in the boat since new because I
don't think 100:1 oil injection is enough lubrication when idling
around for hours in the no wakes zones that keep getting larger. So,
I suppose my motor has been run on 35:1 up to 50:1 since it was new.
Yep, it smokes just like a good 2-stroker should. We're burning
TC-W3, ya know!
larry....The bearing seems fine at 680 hours....
Larry W4CSC
Get the recall bulletin 2000-10 from the shop's service bulletin list
and let the mechanic take a look at it. I'd think ALL 2.5L, oil
injected, engines use the SAME oil pump as my sport jet. The
powerheads are all the same.....
larry
J. Hill
You sound like you have the same problem that I had. Beeping from the
oil injection. But, from what I understand, it "might" be caused by the
coupler being bad or it might be caused by the oil pump drive gear being
toasted. A bad oil pump drive gear can lead to engine damage- pistons,
rings, etc. A bad coupler can lead to very little problems other than a
nuisance beeping. I had the bad drive gear so the mechanic has to tear
my engine apart to check all the pistons, etc for any possible damage.
Merc is putting a new oil pump and gear and paying for half the labor.
Should there be any, there will be even more cost...
I'm not sure if they're replacing the coupler with a higher quality
part or not. They certainly should.
Glad you had good luck running your boat. Mine sat at the mechanics.
J. Hill
xx wrote:
Okay, Mark here, original poster.
> As an update to my problems... I did, indeed go out this weekend (the
> 4th) and ran probably 75 gallons of gas through it on premix. (50:1)
> No problems with it, other than that @#@$ continual beeping, which I
> "fixed" (a band-aid fix) by wrapping a rag around the beeper under the
> dash, and duct taping it! I didn't want to totally cut the wire, because
> if it overheated, I wanted to know about it. It reduced the beeping to
> about 1/2 or less the original level, and that was acceptable. I've got
> an appointment with the shop at the end of this month. Last Friday, I
> received my coupler bearing recall notice. Svc Bltn 2000-10.
> it reads the following:
>
> "we will reimburse the authorized dealer for the replacement of the
> coupler/bearing in line with the service bulletin.
>
> blah bhah blah... *snip*"
>
> BUT! the question is, if the gear melted and ate up something else,
> causing damage, that damage better be covered. the original shop owner
> that I first took it to said he would have to pull the motor, and replace
> the plastic gear, which would cost ME about $1500 because he had to pull
> the motor, and about 12 hours of labor. BUT this recall sounds like its
> a 1/2 hour job! Now, the shop owner spoke with merc, and indeed it is a
> recall, so it will be free to me. But something still isn't making sense
> here... I have an authorized shop appointment on the 29th. One more
> question, is this Coupler/bearing recall a fix, or just a replacement of
> the same broken part, with another not yet, but will be broken part in
> the future?
>
> Mark
>
J. Hill
beeper go off?
J.Hill
WMPARKER
the buzzer fail in the past and replaced it.
>Sorry to hear that, especially on that new of an engine. Did your oil
>beeper go off?
>> I just rolled my 1997 into the shop today. Engine seized up after
xx
> I'm afraid of that to, given the track record of recalls on American
> products. So, I'm going to have the oil injection removed and go to
> running premix, exclusively, which will solve the problem. Dealers
> have a block-off plate that comes with every new block from Merc that
> will seal the hole left when the driveshaft and oil pump have been
> removed. I have one on my desk.
>
> A side benefit to this is YOU get to choose the oil lube ratio for the
> engine. I've always run 60:1 premix in the boat since new because I
> don't think 100:1 oil injection is enough lubrication when idling
> around for hours in the no wakes zones that keep getting larger. So,
> I suppose my motor has been run on 35:1 up to 50:1 since it was new.
> Yep, it smokes just like a good 2-stroker should. We're burning
> TC-W3, ya know!
>
> larry....The bearing seems fine at 680 hours....
>
>
system... I think premix is a big pain in the ass (PITA) I used to do it
for the waveruners (I owned an original WR 500!!) and you use less oil
with the oil injection in place, because of the variable rate RPM oiling.
OTOH, premix ALWAYS works and there is a piece of mind that goes along
with that. BTW... never did disable the warning beep :( still don't know
how... unplugged wires from sensor to oil pump, (rear of flywheel)
connected them together, ect... no go... any clues here? And one minor
gripe, my speedo hasn't worked all summer... wire trick didn't work,
what's next?
Mark
Larry W4CSC
wrote:
>My service manual (buy one, $30) shows a magnetic sensor monitoring
>the oil pump drive shaft on the port side of the engine feeding the
>computer mounted on the starboard side of the engine. It must be
>looking for pulses coming from the sensor to hold off the alarm.
>
After receiving a VERY disturbing email from Jeff Hill about him
having to spend thousands to get his boat back because the dealer was
so incompetent he couldn't disconnect the oil warning, I called Merc
(920-929-5000) customer support this morning.
The oil injection removal instructions date WAY BACK to 1996, which
indicates to me Mercury KNEW back in '96 this PLASTIC piece of crap
had big problems. FOUR years later we get a recall on it? The
service bulletin, which I'm not allowed to have sent to me, it being a
big secret, is Service Bulletin 96-10, Oil Injection Removal. I was
told the secret to stopping the damned beeping, without losing
overheat and overrev limiter is to remove the Purple and Tan/Blue
wires from the oil warning module and tape them off. I have no idea
how this will work as the module is programmed to look for PULSES from
the oil pump shaft rotation sensor. I hope it does as I'm about to
find out.
My next Mercury will be a Yanmar. They just run when you ask them
to.....
PLASTIC GEARS INSIDE AN ENGINE? What's WRONG WITH US?!!!
Larry
hkr...@capu.net
> The
> service bulletin, which I'm not allowed to have sent to me, it being a
> big secret, is Service Bulletin 96-10, Oil Injection Removal. I was
> told the secret to stopping the damned beeping, without losing
> overheat and overrev limiter is to remove the Purple and Tan/Blue
> wires from the oil warning module and tape them off.
Any Mercury dealer will be glad to photocopy any service bulletin for you. I
have the handful of Merc service bulletins that pertain to my engine.
Oh...that's right...you've p.o'd all the Mercury dealers in Charleston...
Well...
--
Harry Krause
------------
I don't jog If I die I want to be sick
GBX
engine.
"Lee Lindquist" <nospam**cana...@hotmail.com> a écrit dans le message
news: XaOIOeFnXUdzAXwVJ+j5Czzu=X...@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:49:56 GMT, W4...@lostonthe.net (Larry W4CSC)
> wrote:
>
> >My next Mercury will be a Yanmar. They just run when you ask them
>
> I have a Yanmar. The only downside is the damage to
> your wallet. Particularly for parts.
>
> --
> - Lee
>
>
Jeff Hill
jetboats. The jetboat companies had little choice but to go with Merc, I
guess. But there sure is room for powerplant improvement... I hope
Brunswick does an "aquisition" of something really useful- Tums or
Rolaids. A few sample rolls could be thrown in with their other fine
products.
I saw another poor soul with an Optimax equipped bass boat making it
back to the dock under full power...the power of his trolling motor that
is: the Opti just "quit". Brand new.
Jeff Hill
Larry W4CSC wrote:
>
> On Thu, 29 Jun 2000 23:46:59 GMT, W4...@lostonthe.net (Larry W4CSC)
> wrote:
>
> >My service manual (buy one, $30) shows a magnetic sensor monitoring
> >the oil pump drive shaft on the port side of the engine feeding the
> >computer mounted on the starboard side of the engine. It must be
> >looking for pulses coming from the sensor to hold off the alarm.
> >
> After receiving a VERY disturbing email from Jeff Hill about him
> having to spend thousands to get his boat back because the dealer was
> so incompetent he couldn't disconnect the oil warning, I called Merc
> (920-929-5000) customer support this morning.
>
> The oil injection removal instructions date WAY BACK to 1996, which
> indicates to me Mercury KNEW back in '96 this PLASTIC piece of crap
> had big problems. FOUR years later we get a recall on it? The
> service bulletin, which I'm not allowed to have sent to me, it being a
> big secret, is Service Bulletin 96-10, Oil Injection Removal. I was
> told the secret to stopping the damned beeping, without losing
> overheat and overrev limiter is to remove the Purple and Tan/Blue
> wires from the oil warning module and tape them off. I have no idea
> how this will work as the module is programmed to look for PULSES from
> the oil pump shaft rotation sensor. I hope it does as I'm about to
> find out.
>
> My next Mercury will be a Yanmar. They just run when you ask them
Larry W4CSC
>There's nothing wrong with us, Larry. We liked the great features of
>jetboats. The jetboat companies had little choice but to go with Merc, I
>guess. But there sure is room for powerplant improvement... I hope
>Brunswick does an "aquisition" of something really useful- Tums or
>Rolaids. A few sample rolls could be thrown in with their other fine
>products.
>I saw another poor soul with an Optimax equipped bass boat making it
>back to the dock under full power...the power of his trolling motor that
>is: the Opti just "quit". Brand new.
>Jeff Hill
>
You couldn't sell me an Opti or Ficht 2-stroke patch. They're just
not "ready for primetime". I've seen many with similar problems......
larry
cartre...@gmail.com
> Im getting an oil warning horn, that is caused by the sensor that
> monitors the drive shaft rotation, in which the plastic worm gear has
> failed. (a mercury known problem, SVC. BLTN. 2000-10) I've got a
> scheduled appointment at the dealer, but its not for another month away.
> I was told by Merc that I could run the boat, if I premixed the gas and
> oil. I was also told by merc that I could disable the warning buzzer but
> clipping the wire atop the secondary oil tank on the motor. (not the 2
> gallon reserve tank) I dont believe this, as all that sensor monitors is
> oil level, and the secondary tank has oil in it. I believe there is a
> secondary sensor that monitors the drive shaft rpm's, and thats what I
> need to clip. Can anyone point me in the right direction here? Larry?
>
> Mark Turner
cc
gfre...@aol.com
wrote:
I agree if the computer is detecting this error from missing sensor
pulses, I am not sure cutting any wire will make it go away unless it
is just indicating low oil level in the tank. Those sensors used to go
bad a lot. Does this just sound the beeper or is it also degrading
performance? You may be able to unplug the beeper. The disable
function is harder to work around.