First, a lightbulb is not permanent. If your lightbulb is built by Murphy's Law
Light Co, count on it burning out the first really cold night.
Second, you've introduced a possible source of spark into your bilge on a
gasoline boat. If the lightbulb breaks when it blows you'd have a moment of
potential
ignition until the filament burns out.
A much better approach might involve rigging some blockheaters on your engines.
These will not only keep the engines warm, but the warm blocks could radiate
enough heat to keep the bilge from freezing in a moderate climate. Then, all
you need to worry about would be the interruption of AC power to the boat
during a severe freeze. If power goes out during a freeze, you'd probably have
to go and run the engines frequently enough to keep them warm until power came
back on again.
________
Chuck Gould
Float and let float.
"Rob and LeAnna Stephenson" <leb...@alaska.net> wrote in message
news:39D06591...@alaska.net...
Larry Weiss
"...Ever After!"
--
Peter Kennedy
Peter Kennedy Yacht Services
Marine Electrical Systems
http://www.pkys.com
Rob and LeAnna Stephenson wrote in message <39D06591...@alaska.net>...
Lloyd Sumpter
"Far Cove" Catalina 36
Larry Weiss wrote:
>
> I don't know about the downside to this; the idea just hit me. There are a
> variety of brands of pipe heaters on the market. You know, the wire you
> wrap around pipes in the house to keep them from freezing?. Would it not
> be possible to string some of that through the bilge?
>
> Larry Weiss
> "...Ever After!"
>
His engine room is about 80F all winter!.....cheep!
larry
man, if I had free electric like that I'd winterize the house
and sleep on the boat <g>
--
george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
to reply simply press "r"
-- I hate editing addresses more than I hate the spam!
There are a couple of CG approved electric bilge heaters...Check your
West Marine and BOAT/US catalogs....they're about $250.
I have one on my own boat. Thermostatically controlled...I've set the
thermostat to turn it on at 30F--below freezing, but not enough below it
to freeze hard enough to crack anything.
The main drawback to all the other suggestions you've gotten is lack of
spark protection from anything electrical that isn't CG approved.
Spark/ignition protection is a non-issue in diesel powered boats, but
very much of one where gas fumes are present.
And, of course, anything electrical depends on a reliable supply of
electricity...an electric bilge heater offers no protection during a
power outage.
Peggie
http://www.solitairef32.homestead.com/
It comes on at 40 F. and runs until the bilge temp is 50 F. I've noticed that
it adds about $20/month to our dock electricity bill in
December/January/February, in our mild N. Georgia winters.
-- Rich Stern
I leave the heat/ac on, set at the coldest temp--which in the summer, is
AC--to protect the plumbing...a heat pump will react in whichever
direction the temperature dictates, so if it gets colder in the cabin
than the coldest AC setting, the heat will come on.
Learned those little tricks after I got a $150 electric bill one
quarter.:-)
Peggie
>
>And, of course, anything electrical depends on a reliable supply of
>electricity...an electric bilge heater offers no protection during a
>power outage.
>
>Peggie
>http://www.solitairef32.homestead.com/
>
WAITAMINIT! Do you mean I can't run my 1500W bilge heater off my
4000W Heart Inverter all winter??!!
hee hee....just a little humor in a dry thread....
larry