drilling fiberglass
Gary W. Sanders
How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass? I a rather large (1")
hole for a cigerette lighter plug. I have looked at a 1" auger style bit but
they are VERY expensive. Can you use a wood (flat bit) and get good results?
would it be better to saw a hold that size?
--
Gary W. Sanders g...@n8emr.nitetech.com
packet: N8EMR @ W8CQK Voice: 614-895-2552 (eves/weekends)
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege."
This address may *not* be used for unsolicited mailings.
Fun@Fishing
A hole saw is best. The help keep the gel coat from crazing you can
put masking tape across the area you are cutting.
Capt. Bill
Gary W. Sanders wrote:
> How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass? I a rather
> large (1")
> hole for a cigerette lighter plug. I have looked at a 1" auger style
> bit but
> they are VERY expensive. Can you use a wood (flat bit) and get good
> results?
> would it be better to saw a hold that size?
>
> --
> Gary W. Sanders g...@n8emr.nitetech.com
> packet: N8EMR @ W8CQK Voice: 614-895-2552 (eves/weekends)
> Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege."
> This address may *not* be used for unsolicited mailings.
A flat bit or a hole saw will work fine, just go slow and let the drill
do the work.
Allen Majorovic
Fun@Fishing wrote:
>
> Gary W. Sanders wrote:
> >
> > How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass? I a rather large (1")
> > hole for a cigerette lighter plug. I have looked at a 1" auger style bit but
> > they are VERY expensive. Can you use a wood (flat bit) and get good results?
> > would it be better to saw a hold that size?
> >
> > --
> > Gary W. Sanders g...@n8emr.nitetech.com
> > packet: N8EMR @ W8CQK Voice: 614-895-2552 (eves/weekends)
> > Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege."
> > This address may *not* be used for unsolicited mailings.
>
> put masking tape across the area you are cutting.
I used a cordless screwdriver to cut some 3 3/4 inch holes using a
holesaw. The low speed made the cutter very controllable but of course
it was pretty tedious.
--
*************************************************************************************
Allen Majorovic
amaj...@mail.id.net
*************************************************************************************
"Minutus cantorum, minutus balorum, minutus carborata descendum
pantorum."
-- (A little song, a little dance, a little seltzer down your
pants.)
David Hearn
The answer is: it depends. On if 1) the fibreglass is only fibreglass OR
2) the fibregalss is back by a "sandwich" of layers of wood and more
fibreglass.
In either case DON'T USE AN AUGER BIT. A 1" hole in fibreglass only
could be drilled with a "fly cutrer" bit. But a better plan in either
case is a "hole saw" because it uses less power - get one at any
hardware store. In fibreglass only you should be able to power it with a
3/8" electric drill. If there's wood and fibreglass you'll need a
larger drill like maybe 1/2".
Remember measure twice - drill once.
PS: I hope that cigarette lighter isn't exposed to moisture - if it is
get a proper marine grade plug.
A.J. Cohen
Gary W. Sanders wrote:
>
> How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass? I a rather large (1")
> hole for a cigerette lighter plug. I have looked at a 1" auger style bit but
> they are VERY expensive. Can you use a wood (flat bit) and get good results?
> would it be better to saw a hold that size?
>
> --
> Gary W. Sanders g...@n8emr.nitetech.com
> packet: N8EMR @ W8CQK Voice: 614-895-2552 (eves/weekends)
> Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege."
> This address may *not* be used for unsolicited mailings.
You can use a hole saw, just make sure it's a good quality if you
care about your boat. If you use a wood bit it will splinter the
glass. Put some tape across the area to be drilled as an added
precaution. Depending on the application (assuming you don't need
a cigarette lighter, only the plug), you might want to consider a
polarized (and smaller, less obtrusive) marine or aircraft socket
and plug.
Jim and Dee Woodward
Use a hole saw. For any round hole 5/8" or bigger, you will get the
cleanest, easiest, most accurate hole in wood, fiberglass, aluminum
(even steel if you buy a good one) with a hole saw.
For the purists, I agree I've overstated a little. You'll probably get
a slightly cleaner hole in most good wood with a sharp auger bit.
Jim
--
In New Zealand, having fun and waiting
for the end of the cyclone season.
Then sailing west, home to Boston.
Louise
>How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass?
We have good luck on larger holes with a hole saw on a slow speed and
consistent light pressure to cut the hole.
Good luck,
Louise
--
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Jim Conlin
Gary W. Sanders wrote:
>
> How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass? I a rather large (1")
> hole for a cigerette lighter plug. I have looked at a 1" auger style bit but
> they are VERY expensive. Can you use a wood (flat bit) and get good results?
> would it be better to saw a hold that size?
>
> --
> Gary W. Sanders g...@n8emr.nitetech.com
> packet: N8EMR @ W8CQK Voice: 614-895-2552 (eves/weekends)
> Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege."
> This address may *not* be used for unsolicited mailings.
or more. Not terribly expensive. They do a good job.
Prince Myshkin
A hole saw is clearly best and sets of nested hole saws up to about 2.5 inches
are relatively inexpensive. But large saws for holes 4 and 5 inches in diameter
cost close to $50 and you will probably use it only once. This is the size hole
you need for ventilators, smoke stacks and the like.
If you can rent a saw, fine. If not, for a hole that size, use a saber saw.
Measure and mark it out very carefully, drill a half inch hole at the center,
then go in with the saw and carefully cut around your mark. The saw will want
to bend if you are going through laminated deck, in our case more than an inch
of gelgoat, laminate, balsa, more laminate and more gelcoat. (The cutout makes
a great coaster.) Go slowly and back off when the blade bends. The walls of
your cut may not be perfectly vertical but if you have measured properly and
cut carefully, the Marine Tex and trim rinmgs will cover the imperfections.
wsp
Gary W. Sanders wrote:
>
> How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass? I a rather large (1")
> hole for a cigerette lighter plug. I have looked at a 1" auger style bit but
> they are VERY expensive. Can you use a wood (flat bit) and get good results?
> would it be better to saw a hold that size?
If you don't want to spend the $ on a hole saw you can draw your 1 inch
circle drill inside it with a 1/8 of slightly larger bit all around the
circle. Make sure you try to get those holes as close as possible!!!
Then kinda chisel the plug out and then file with a rat tail file till
smooth.
Hole saw will cost you 25 bucks for the saw AND the mandrel.
BTW: Make sure you are very not-in-a-hurry!!!!!!!!!!
wsp
OOPS!!! I say "kinda chisel" the plug out, sorry, better to use a saber
saw blade or other small saw blade and *saw* the plug out!! Do it by
hand, or use the electric saber saw if you are confident and calm!
N. Gietz
Gary W. Sanders wrote:
>
> How does one go about drilling a rather large (1")hole...
Gary:
I'd suggest a hole saw, with the finest teeth you can get.
e.g. hacksaw type teeth.
Nelson
Paul and Cindy Kruse
g...@n8emr.nitetech.com (Gary W. Sanders) wrote:
>How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass? I a rather large (1")
>hole for a cigerette lighter plug. I have looked at a 1" auger style bit but
>they are VERY expensive. Can you use a wood (flat bit) and get good results?
>would it be better to saw a hold that size?
A spade bit will work, but will not make a very clean hole. They tend to work a
little better if you drill a pilot hole.
An auger bit will work a little better, but you will tear up the auger bit if
you make very many holes with it. On the other hand, they are not very
difficult to re-sharpen. Once again, a pilot hole will make it work better.
A properly sharpened twist drill will work fairly well, if you drill a fairly
large pilot hole.
I have gotten the best results with a hole saw for holes this size.
One way or another, you will get a cleaner hole if you tape over the area first,
and drill through the tape, for any drill other than a hole saw.
Have a great day,
plk...@iu.net (Paul Kruse)
Stephen Carstensen
Louise wrote:
>
> >How does one go about drilling a hole in fiberglass?
>
> consistent light pressure to cut the hole.
>
> Good luck,
> Louise
> --
> ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
> <http://www.sspboatsite.com>
> Trivia Contest for Captain Ron buffs - coming soon
> Boat Stuff Virtual Boat Show Boat Quiz
> Boat Trivia Navigation Seminar Boat Survey
> ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
then using wood screws works but the pilot hole has to be larger then it
would be for wood otherwise you'll twist the screw off.
If, is onn my Hansa 33, the glass is very thick, 3/8 cabin in my case,
then drilling and tapping as for metal works best.
If hole sawing, say for a charlie noble or windlass, then a hole saw
slowly works fine.
Steve
COUGER GORDON
A spade bit will work better if you start it from one side and flip
the work over and finish if from the other side.
Gordon
In article <5kj2fg$c...@news.atlantic.net>,
Gordon Couger W5RED
624 Cheyenne
Stillwater, OK 74075
405.624.2855 home
Marc Auslander
I've had good results with a hole saw and, for larger holes, with a
device which has a small pilot drill and an arm which carries a
carbide tool bit - the kind you use on a lath. You adjust the length
of the arm to the hole radius.
I think for 1 inch, I'd use a hole saw.
--
Marc Auslander <ma...@watson.ibm.com> 914 945-4346 (Tieline 862 Fax x4426)
Chuck Rose
Interesting, isn't it? How so many of us have so much experience
drilling holes in our fiberglass boats. d;^)
Chuck Rose
S.V. Lealea
Honolulu
"Ignorance is the Mother of Adventure." - Hagar the Horrible
KPerkins
I did this one about a month ago. I used a 1" wood drill bit (point, then
flat).
It worked, but it made a mess, and I was picking fiberglass shards out of
my hands for two days. Next time I'll remember the gloves...
--Karen
Klaus Sussenbach
COUGER GORDON wrote:
>
> A spade bit will work better if you start it from one side and flip
> the work over and finish if from the other side.
>
> Gordon
>
be a boat!
Also, keep in mind that a spade bit relays on the centre point for
guidance. Once you are through the material this guide disappears
and the bit rattles in the hole, ruining the smooth sides before you
can let go of the drill trigger. You need to clamp/wedge a piece of
timber where the bit comes through to guide the spade bit during
breakthrough.
I would not recommend to use a spade bit with a *handheld* power
drill, use a hole saw and you have no problems.
Good luck,
Klaus
Scott Truesdell
Any cutting tools will dull quickly in fiberglass. Whatever combination of
saws and files you end up using, for the cleanest hole, save the sharpest
cutters for the very first cuts and the very last. Use light pressure on
the tool and let the cutter do the work. As you approach break-though, use
the lightest pressure possible.
It is VERY helpful to have a second person with a shop vac constantly
sucking up the chips. The fiberglass dust is annoying to get on you and
its abrasive nature wrecks tools, finishes, &c.
_____
Anecdote:
Over twenty years ago I worked for a rigging company that did everything
from complete boat restorations to installing through-hulls in cheap
production boats. One of our "claims to fame" was that we could install
through-hulls with the boat IN THE WATER. It seems like it was always the
el-cheapos that overlooked such essentials as knotmeters and depth
sounders until after the boat was commissioned and they jumped at the
prospect of saving hundreds of dollars by not having the boat hauled. Our
company charged quite a lot per hole and it was a great profit center.
This took three people: 1 to use the huge drill motor with hole saws; 1 to
slap on a temporary patch until the fitting was installed; and 1 to stand
by to yank the electrical plug out of the socket as soon as the saw broke
through.
No matter how well we grounded everything, the person doing the drilling
and usually the person pulling the plug got a healthy wallop of 112VAC.
This, of course, really ticked us grunts off. We complained to the owner
of the company that this wasn't a "good thing" to do, but he kept
insisting that we were just whining and that if we did it right we
wouldn't get shocked. One day we insisted that he show us the "right" way.
After checking out the ground, Pat started drilling. Sure enough, as soon
as he broke through, his hair curled as 112VAC arced through his body.
From then on, drilling through-hulls in the water was on a strictly
volunteer basis, rewarded by two hours off with pay.
--scott
No unsolicited commercial email!
A.J. Cohen
Klaus,
Experience is a darn good teacher. I gues Gordon is where you and I
used to be.
-Andy
sco...@ix.netcom.com
KEY WEST WE ALWAYS TRID TO USE DIAMOND COATED DRILLS AND SAW BLADES IF
THE HOLE YOU NEED TO CUT IS LARGE ENOUGH YOU CAN USE A GRINDER WIT
HEAVEY DUTY DISCS OR DIAMOND EDGED BLADES ON YOUR JIG SAW
MIKE
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <piyb9tw...@marc.watson.ibm.com>, Marc Auslander <ma...@marc.watson.ibm.com> writes:
> I've had good results with a hole saw and, for larger holes, with a
> device which has a small pilot drill and an arm which carries a
> carbide tool bit - the kind you use on a lath. You adjust the length
> of the arm to the hole radius.
I think that is called a boring bar...
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Captsea243
A regular twist drill bit will work fine but your best bet for fit and
finish is a holesaw and a gentle touch.
Sixdrive
buy the proper tool for the right job youll save yourself headaches in the
long run i know because ive been doing this for a long time you shouldnt
skimp when it comes to your boat and besides youll always have a tool to
install the lighters in other boats that you my buy in the future,a
holesaw is what you need thanks for listening.