Safe to start motor out of water?
Kyle D. Ross
I have a Bayliner Jazz with Mercury SportJet engine. The last time I had it
in the water, it would not start. I took it to a local boat shop, and they
replaced some sort of ignition module, and said it is fixed.
I can't get it to a lake just yet to give it a test. Is it safe to start
the motor just for a few seconds without water? I just want to verify that
it does indeed start.
Your help is always appreciated.
-- Kyle D. Ross
Charles
seconds. I have a habit of doing just that before we leave the house. I'd
rather know it's not going to start here than there.
I'm sure SOMEONE will come along behind me and whine about the engine not
getting any cooling water and how that will destroy your checking account.
Ignore all that noise. Say you started it and it ran 5 seconds. I'll wager
that ANY boat started IN the water will take at least 5 seconds to pull
water up through the pump and around the head.
Charles
Kyle D. Ross <inv...@email.address> wrote in message
news:8dk52h$bjq$1...@ssauraab-i-1.production.compuserve.com...
Barry C
> Sure. You can really start any boat engine out of the water for a few
> seconds. I have a habit of doing just that before we leave the house.
I'd
> rather know it's not going to start here than there.
>
> I'm sure SOMEONE will come along behind me and whine about the engine not
> getting any cooling water and how that will destroy your checking account.
> Ignore all that noise. Say you started it and it ran 5 seconds. I'll
wager
> that ANY boat started IN the water will take at least 5 seconds to pull
> water up through the pump and around the head.
I'm no marine engine expert, but I play one on TV... Just kidding. ;-)
Anyway, I have been told by my boat dealer that starting the engine out of
water, even for a few seconds, is bad for the engine not because of the
cooling water not being there, but because of damage to the
impeller(spelling?). Of course, running it longer _would_ damage the engine
due to overheating. Better safe than sorry you know.
Barry
MPerlst216
advice from dave.
H82LUZ1
>advice from dave.
>
I'm not Dave, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night. = )
Running a marine motor for 5 seconds won't hurt it a bit.
BUT, it sure doesn't do the fresh water impeller any good.
Mike G. (well rested)
Stacy
matter how short. I don't relish the idea of melting my impeller!
Go to your marine dealer and pick up a garden hose adapter (they're cheap,
about $25 US or so). Then you can run water through the engine in your
driveway and run the engine to your hearts content.
HTH,
Stacy
Charles <char...@NOSPAM.bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:DoiL4.5782$O7.1...@typhoon.southeast.rr.com...
> Sure. You can really start any boat engine out of the water for a few
> seconds. I have a habit of doing just that before we leave the house.
I'd
> rather know it's not going to start here than there.
>
> I'm sure SOMEONE will come along behind me and whine about the engine not
> getting any cooling water and how that will destroy your checking account.
> Ignore all that noise. Say you started it and it ran 5 seconds. I'll
wager
> that ANY boat started IN the water will take at least 5 seconds to pull
> water up through the pump and around the head.
>
Larry W4CSC
through the flush hose attachment on top of the engine BEFORE starting
the engine because explosive fumes can and do get trapped in the
exhaust stack if water isn't running. I didn't write that, they did,
so no flames are necessary.
We Jetboaters don't have to worry about tearing up little rubber
impellers if they are dry and stuck to the inside of the water
pump....we don't HAVE a water pump....(c; Isn't that nice??
Larry....
Larry W4CSC
>Stacy <sod...@pobox.com> wrote:
>* I personally wouldn't run my engine out of water for ANY length of time, no
>* matter how short. I don't relish the idea of melting my impeller!
>*
>* Go to your marine dealer and pick up a garden hose adapter (they're cheap,
>* about $25 US or so). Then you can run water through the engine in your
>* driveway and run the engine to your hearts content.
>
>Stacy, a garden hose adaptor costs $5-6 at Boat US. Even less at walmart.
No, no, NO! You MUST use only an special, OEM garden hose adapter
with XF-1 additives. WalMart ear muffs will cause coking on rings and
scoring walls, not to mention huge reduction in profits!
Make SURE you buy the most expensive ear muffs you can find only from
the largest OEM dealer in town......
Huge grin...(c;
Larry....
The thread will now continue with a 2 month discussion of OEM ear
muffs vs. WalMart/Kmart ear muffs made in Taiwan.
default
from experience.
Do not, unless an absolute emergency start the motor dry. Can you do it?
Yes. Will you get away with it maybe. You can also start the engine without
oil and maybe get away with it.
The impellor is a set of six or eight blades protruding from a hub. Maybe 1
1/2 inches in diameter, stuffed into a *plastic* irregularly shaped housing.
When I say stuffed I mean you must turn the impellor (in the correct direction
;-)) to bend the blades to install it in the housing. To pump water these
blades flex through the oval as it spins.
Now, the reason for all the above. You *can* start the engine but since the
blades are sliding on a dry surface and thus no lubricant, they will generate
heat very quickly. Also, with no water there is no way to dissipate the heat
thus generated. The heat will alter the flexibility of the blades. Enough
heat and they will fail on the spot. In severe cases even melt the plastic of
the housing, seize the impellor shaft and do serious damage to the lower unit.
Almost any heat will shorten the useful life of the impellor.
Take your pick, fail now or when you're 30 miles downstream. :-)
My experience went thusly, uh, if you're interested. ;-)
I started my engine a couple of times for only a few seconds. Had a big
weekend planned and wanted to ensure no problems. Then I heard that I
shouldn't do that, from this group BTW. Contacted my local marina, they
recommended replacement but couldn't get to it and I needed the boat the next
day. They had me bring it (the boat) to their yard and actually coached me on
the R&R and the only thing they got out of it was the price of the parts. Nice
guys, The Boatyard, Milton Freewater, Ore. Oh, and my respect and continued
business. Anyway, when I replaced the impellor there was a noticeable
difference in the pliability of the blades between the old and new. How much
it shortened it's life I don't know, but it doesn't take a genious to see that
it wouldn't have had a normal, useful life. Was it that the impellor was a
high time unit? I don't think so. The Boatyard had just installed a new
engine for the previous owner and had gone though the outdrive as well. When I
bought the boat there was a total of 4 hours on the engine. :-)
So, yes you can start it up just keep in mind that you will be affecting the
useful life of the impellor. IMNSHO
Wes
In the Pacific Northwet
default
> Sure. You can really start any boat engine out of the water for a few
> seconds. I have a habit of doing just that before we leave the house. I'd
> rather know it's not going to start here than there.
>
Yup, and like I said you can start it up without oil too, but I wouldn't
recommend it.
>
> I'm sure SOMEONE will come along behind me and whine about the engine not
> getting any cooling water and how that will destroy your checking account.
> Ignore all that noise.
First, I don't whine. Second it is in fact not getting any cooling water.
Which means you just got the thing hot and now it's going to stay hot because
there is *still* no water on it.
> Say you started it and it ran 5 seconds. I'll wager
> that ANY boat started IN the water will take at least 5 seconds to pull
> water up through the pump and around the head.
>
It may take 5 seconds to get the water around the head, but the pump is below
the water line and should have water immediately. You are correct that it will
not hurt the power head to run for a few seconds without water, but I must
respectfully disagree in the case of the impellor.
Wes
In the Pacific Northwet
>
> Charles
>
hkr...@capu.net
>
> Of course, how could I forget. Buy the $50 earmuffs for "peace of mind".
>
> igor
>
> Larry W4CSC <W4...@lostonthe.net> wrote:
> * On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:32:59 -0500, ig...@Algebra.Com (Igor) wrote:
> *
> *
> * Larry....
> *
> * The thread will now continue with a 2 month discussion of OEM ear
> * muffs vs. WalMart/Kmart ear muffs made in Taiwan.
>
I'm sure it would be lost on both of you, but there are qualitative differences
between lower unit muffs, and there are reasons to pay a couple of dollars more
for a better pair.
--
Harry Krause
------------
BREAKFAST.COM halted -- cereal port not responding.
Michael J Porter
=>Igor wrote:
=>>
=>> Of course, how could I forget. Buy the $50 earmuffs for "peace of mind".
=>>
=>> igor
=>>
=>> Larry W4CSC <W4...@lostonthe.net> wrote:
=>> * On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:32:59 -0500, ig...@Algebra.Com (Igor) wrote:
=>> *
=>> *
=>> * Larry....
=>> *
=>> * The thread will now continue with a 2 month discussion of OEM ear
=>> * muffs vs. WalMart/Kmart ear muffs made in Taiwan.
=>>
=>
=>I'm sure it would be lost on both of you, but there are qualitative differences
=>between lower unit muffs, and there are reasons to pay a couple of dollars more
=>for a better pair.
Personally, I like the kind that feed the water to both sides of
the unit. The hose attaches at the rear of the muff, which also
seems to help it stay on the drive. This style costs about $5
more.
Mike
--
===
Mike Porter <mi...@udel.edu>
PGP Fingerprint: F4 AE E1 9F 67 F7 DA EA 2F D2 37 F3 99 ED D1 C2
hkr...@capu.net
There's also a hard materials style that is held on over the intake slots with a
stainless steel pin that goes all the way through the slots and is held on with
a steel spring. This one also costs a few bucks more, and it won't slip off.
--
Harry Krause
------------
I am not part of the problem. I am a Republican. - Dan Quayle
-- Mike --
>>how about some real
>>advice from dave.
>>
>
> I'm not Dave, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night. = )
Those commercials rule! Between those, the Budget Car Rentals, and
the VW one where the guy tackles the shopping cars... I'm starting to
prefer commercials to the actual shows. ;-)
Mike Seiler
-- Mike --
<char...@NOSPAM.bellsouth.net> wrote:
>Sure. You can really start any boat engine out of the water for a few
>seconds. I have a habit of doing just that before we leave the house. I'd
>rather know it's not going to start here than there.
How many extra fish do you catch in those extra few seconds that you
save by not hooking the hose up? ;-)
>
>I'm sure SOMEONE will come along behind me and whine about the engine not
>getting any cooling water and how that will destroy your checking account.
You can safely run a POWERHEAD without water, until it reaches
operating temperature. Of course you will have to drop the lower unit
and replace the water pump about 60 times, before you actually hit
that temperature. Water pumps with rubber impellers should never be
run dry. Period.
So, for those that want to do a no-water-test-run before heading down
to the ramp, it's simple--just remove the gearcase, fire up the motor,
turn it off again, then reinstall the gearcase. Wait....
nevermind.... I just had a better idea. Hook the water up.
>Ignore all that noise.
Why?
>Say you started it and it ran 5 seconds. I'll wager
>that ANY boat started IN the water will take at least 5 seconds to pull
>water up through the pump and around the head.
Not the point... and definitely not good advice.
Mike Seiler
Dave Brown
> some people here give the crappiest, uneducated advice. how about some real
> advice from dave.
My ears are burning, did someone call? :-)
The original poster has a jet boat. he could run for a full minute at idle if he
wanted (there is no rubber impeller).
For those of you with rubber impellers, a quick start won't hurt anything. Every
single one of our boats is started dry before heading to the ramp and none has
ever suffered failure. In fact, water pump impellers are probably the thing we
service the least around here. Then again, we're boating in God's country where
the glacier melt water is as pure as the driven snow. ;-)
--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina
http://www.brownsmarina.on.ca/
Kyle D. Ross
Does your JetBoat have a Mercury SportJet? I can't find any place that
looks like there is a water connection. I understand that jetboat engines
don't have a water pump impeller, as they derive the water from the actual
drive impeller. Is that true?
-- Kyle D. Ross
"nospam" <bobf...@media.com> wrote in message
news:38fe2f63....@news1.jacksonville.net...
> On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 07:25:05 -0400, "Kyle D. Ross"
> <inv...@email.address> wrote:
>
>
> >I can't get it to a lake just yet to give it a test. Is it safe to start
> >the motor just for a few seconds without water? I just want to verify
that
> >it does indeed start.
> >
> There should be a hose attachment in the engine compartment. You can
> hook up a water hose to that and run the engine with water. At lease
> I can with my Sugar Sand jet boat.
>
> Bob Frank
Ted G
I can't believe that after spending thousands of dollars on the plumbing in
your house and many more hundreds of dollars buying water over the years you
would deliver that water in a 5-6 dollar muff!!!! Wouldn't it be more
prudent to purchase an OE muff from the most expensive marina around and
only use Mercruiser Special Flushing Water (MSFH2O)???? Barring that a gold
funnel to pour Evian into the motor is the next best option.
Please don't risk the longevity of your motor by using regular old water and
a generic muff. (Heh,heh-he said muff!?!?!?)
Ted
> Stacy, a garden hose adaptor costs $5-6 at Boat US. Even less at walmart.
> ***********************************************************************
Jerry Hahn
send it to me.
Last year I used the type that clamp around the lower unit, and they slid
off. Didn't catch it until temp alarm went off. $100 bucks later for new
pump, I now use the type that has a rod that goes thru the outdrive pick up
holes.
Jerry
> For those of you with rubber impellers, a quick start won't hurt anything.
>
Larry W4CSC
>Igor wrote:
>>
>> Of course, how could I forget. Buy the $50 earmuffs for "peace of mind".
>>
>> igor
>>
>> Larry W4CSC <W4...@lostonthe.net> wrote:
>> * On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:32:59 -0500, ig...@Algebra.Com (Igor) wrote:
>> *
>> *
>> * Larry....
>> *
>> * The thread will now continue with a 2 month discussion of OEM ear
>> * muffs vs. WalMart/Kmart ear muffs made in Taiwan.
>>
>
>I'm sure it would be lost on both of you, but there are qualitative differences
>between lower unit muffs, and there are reasons to pay a couple of dollars more
>for a better pair.
>
>
>
>--
>Harry Krause
Absolutely! I would never dream of using any earmuffs not made by the
Hinckley Company in platinum and fine hardwoods. Anything less is
beneath me.
Larry....WalMart....hummph!
Larry W4CSC
<prof...@litenet.net> wrote:
>Oh, c'mon Larry!!1 Can't we just flame you for the fun of it!!!
>
>
>Why not just spend $20 on the ear muffs and not take a chance.
>
(Puffing up into my snob stance).......
We Mercury Sport Jet owners are blessed with INTEGRAL FLUSH HOSE
FITTINGS, only found on the finest watercraft. This device
BACKFLUSHES the salt from our trusty jetboats and backflushes the
cooling water intake inside the Sport Jet's main, 60 gallons per
second, pump......
There is no place to put "muffs". The cooling water intake tube is
INSIDE the main nozzle housing of the jet pump at the point of
greatest pressure. I sure hope it never comes off the powerhead
inside the boat!
Larry....deflating to normal. Where DID I leave that tire valve
wrench?
Butch Ammon
>Personally, I like the kind that feed the water to both sides of
>the unit. The hose attaches at the rear of the muff, which also
>seems to help it stay on the drive. This style costs about $5
>more.
>
>Mike
>--
That's the kind that I have too. It looks like a big hard plastic "capital Y".
I run my boat a few times with it, mostly tweaking and tuning up the engine.
In the dead of winter, I have only clicked the starter a few times, just to
move the pistons around. I wouldn't dream of running my boat without the motor
flusher. I remember all to well as a kid, seeing a neighbor/friend of my Dad's
running an old Chrysler outboard without any water at all. He sat there and
revved the engine a few times too. Pretty soon - you guessed it.... BAM! One
dead engine.
Butch Ammon
Larry W4CSC
<noth...@nothankyou.com> wrote:
>Bob,
>
> Does your JetBoat have a Mercury SportJet? I can't find any place that
>looks like there is a water connection. I understand that jetboat engines
>don't have a water pump impeller, as they derive the water from the actual
>drive impeller. Is that true?
>
>-- Kyle D. Ross
>
The flush hose fittiing on the 175 Sport Jet is CONVENIENTLY located
on top of the engine in a stainless steel clip right behind the
flywheel cover pointing to port. Unfortunately, the idiot who
designed it doesn't know that the FEMALE end of a hose fitting needs
to ROTATE around the male part, freely, so you can screw it on.
Tiring rapidly of twisting the hose up so it would spin on, I bought
some Genuine Kmart brass hose quick connectors that push-on. You
still must keep the plug in the hose on the engine for boating but
putting the quick connector on it is much easier after you remove the
plug. Then simply quick-connect the hose and you're in business.
I'm not sure the Force Sport Jets (90 and 120hp) have this
feature.....
Larry
Rich Poelstra
Delta.
Rich
http://community.webtv.net/RJgonfshin/WELCOMETOMYHOMEPAGE
mike goldstein
pump impeller ('76 Johnson 40hp) every other year - this after
toasting one powerhead and narrowly saving another. Those
pump impellers didn't wear out, they just failed - the glue that
held the impeller to the metal sleeve let go, suddenly. The parts
guy at my OMC dealer said that this was a common failure mode and
recommended I change impellers on schedule. And I have ever
since. have the Impellers improved now so that this PM is
no longer necessary?????
thanks-
"Dave Brown" <da...@brownsmarina.on.ca> wrote in message
news:38FE6ACF...@brownsmarina.on.ca...
> MPerlst216 wrote:
>
> In fact, water pump impellers are probably the thing we
> service the least around here. Then again, we're boating in God's country
where
> the glacier melt water is as pure as the driven snow. ;-)
>
Dave Brown
> Really???? In the late 70s I got in the habit of replacing my water
> pump impeller ('76 Johnson 40hp) every other year - this after
> toasting one powerhead and narrowly saving another. Those
> pump impellers didn't wear out, they just failed - the glue that
> held the impeller to the metal sleeve let go, suddenly. The parts
> guy at my OMC dealer said that this was a common failure mode and
> recommended I change impellers on schedule. And I have ever
> since. have the Impellers improved now so that this PM is
> no longer necessary?????
Yes sir, they do indeed make impellers that bond the their hubs now. :-)
We launched a boat last week that has been in our care since new. It's a 1979
Johnson 85hp. He's owns a cottage on an island and leaves the entire care and
maintenance of his boat to us at our discretion. With all the talk about
impellers, I thought if *any* boat should get one as preventative maintenance,
this one should. We pulled the lower unit to find -- a perfectly good impeller.
That's 21 years, folks. We put a new one in as long as we were there.
Can anyone guess which oil this engine uses? ;-)
RBStern
>That's 21 years, folks. We put a new one in as long as we were there.
>
>Can anyone guess which oil this engine uses? ;-)
Uh, ok, so you put OMC brand oil in the water pump and it lasted for 21 years?
That IS good stuff! :)
-- Rich Stern
-- Mike --
<da...@brownsmarina.on.ca> wrote:
>mike goldstein wrote:
>
>> Really???? In the late 70s I got in the habit of replacing my water
>> pump impeller ('76 Johnson 40hp) every other year - this after
>> toasting one powerhead and narrowly saving another. Those
>> pump impellers didn't wear out, they just failed - the glue that
>> held the impeller to the metal sleeve let go, suddenly. The parts
>> guy at my OMC dealer said that this was a common failure mode and
>> recommended I change impellers on schedule. And I have ever
>> since. have the Impellers improved now so that this PM is
>> no longer necessary?????
>
>Yes sir, they do indeed make impellers that bond the their hubs now. :-)
>
>We launched a boat last week that has been in our care since new. It's a 1979
>Johnson 85hp. He's owns a cottage on an island and leaves the entire care and
>maintenance of his boat to us at our discretion. With all the talk about
>impellers, I thought if *any* boat should get one as preventative maintenance,
>this one should. We pulled the lower unit to find -- a perfectly good impeller.
>That's 21 years, folks. We put a new one in as long as we were there.
>
>Can anyone guess which oil this engine uses? ;-)
It's okay to spend a little more on OEM oil when you're saving that
much money by not replacing water pumps on a regular basis. ;-)
21 years isn't too bad... Was that impeller an Aqua-Power or a
Sierra? HA HA ;-)
You got me beat by a year. I changed a '76 OMC 25HP's original
impeller in 96. It was far from new condition, though. It was in for
ignition problems and I happened to ask when it was last changed. He
replied, "Those things wear out?" hehe
The guy leaves it in fresh water, which would seem to prevent dry-rot
and says he never even hits 1/2 throttle... just puts around the lake
fishing. I'm sure that the vanes were weak/cracked/bent enough that
there would have been a heat problem at higher RPM use, though.
I think we got a new category for Guiness here. I wonder what the
world record for impeller life is.
Mike Seiler
Kyle D. Ross
hose that goes nowhere... Perhaps I'll look for that, also. Unfortunately,
I bought the boat used, and don't have a user's manual. Maybe I'll order
one.
Thanks again, Bob, for your help.
-- Kyle D. Ross
"Bob Frank" <bobf...@media.com> wrote in message
news:3900b1d3...@news1.jacksonville.net...
> On Wed, 19 Apr 2000 23:14:21 -0400, "Kyle D. Ross"
> <noth...@nothankyou.com> wrote:
>
> >Bob,
> >
> > Does your JetBoat have a Mercury SportJet? I can't find any place
that
> >looks like there is a water connection. I understand that jetboat
engines
> >don't have a water pump impeller, as they derive the water from the
actual
> >drive impeller. Is that true?
> >
>
> Yes I've got a SportJet 90. Look in your owner's manual under a
> heading such as "Flushing the cooling system."
>
> Look for a hose with one end that goes nowhere. There should be a
> plug and/or cap on it to keep water from spewing out when the motor is
> running. I guess it's possible that your boat doesn't have the hose
> attached. My owners manual does say "We recommend using Quicksilver
> Flushing Kit ..." Maybe you just need to get the flushing kit and
> install it. My boat came with one installed and I couldn't tell you
> how or where to connect the hose on yours. But it shouldn't be
> difficult.
>
> As far as I know there is no separate water pump or impeller for
> cooling. But then I know very little about the mechanical side of
> things.
>
> Bob Frank
Dave Brown
> It's okay to spend a little more on OEM oil when you're saving that
> much money by not replacing water pumps on a regular basis. ;-)
Ot any other catastrophic failures. :-)
> I think we got a new category for Guiness here. I wonder what the
> world record for impeller life is.
This isn't unique here. Most of my boats are long term customers and impeller
replacement is not a regular service item. Bellows, on the other hand, we try
and stay on top of.....
Larry W4CSC
<inv...@email.address> wrote:
>Thank you, Bob. I do have SportJet 90 in my boat. I wasn't looking for a
>hose that goes nowhere... Perhaps I'll look for that, also. Unfortunately,
>I bought the boat used, and don't have a user's manual. Maybe I'll order
>one.
>
>Thanks again, Bob, for your help.
>
>-- Kyle D. Ross
>
You can buy the owner's and service manuals direct from Merc.....
Larry
Larry W4CSC
wrote:
>Yes, I've got the SportJet 90 in my SS Mirage and it does have a nice
>convenient hose attached for flushing.
>
>With any luck by early next week I will have moved up to the Merc
>SportJet 175 and a SS Tango, if I'm as successful negotiating with the
>current boat owner as I've been with my wife this week. ;-) Wish me
>luck.
>
>Bob Frank
Congrats, Bob. You'll LOVE the 175 over the 90. Wait until you
notice how easy it starts and smooth it runs on a dead cold
morning....a VAST improvement over electric chokes. I sure love mine.
It doesn't even foul the plugs, even when I still run 60:1 gas with
the oil injection which seems to be working out great for the first
500 hours! We boresighted the cylinders through the plug holes and
you can still see the hone marks!
Change out the BU8H straight plugs for BUZ8H resistor plugs (awfully
expense - $11+ at Pep Boys Auto). The straight plugs eat every piece
of electronics in the boat. The resistor plugs are DEAD QUIET. I
think the awful price is why Merc doesn't use them.
Race ya to the sea bouy....(c;
Larry aboard "Linux". Call us on 16, we'll do lunch.
Keith Beckmann
> This isn't unique here. Most of my boats are long term customers and
impeller
> replacement is not a regular service item. Bellows, on the other hand, we
try
> and stay on top of.....
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Dave Brown
> Brown's Marina
> http://www.brownsmarina.on.ca/
How often do you replace bellows?
Dave Brown
> How often do you replace bellows?
We try and maintain a five year plan. Sinking a boat for the sake of a $50 part
seem entirely wasteful to me.
Kyle D. Ross
"Bob Frank" <bobf...@media.com> wrote in message
news:39007182...@news1.jacksonville.net...
> On Fri, 21 Apr 2000 07:54:40 -0400, "Kyle D. Ross"
> <inv...@email.address> wrote:
>
> >Thank you, Bob. I do have SportJet 90 in my boat. I wasn't looking for
a
> >hose that goes nowhere... Perhaps I'll look for that, also.
Unfortunately,
> >I bought the boat used, and don't have a user's manual. Maybe I'll order
> >one.
> >
> >Thanks again, Bob, for your help.
> >
>
> WARNING!!!
>
> I just re-read the "Flushing the cooling system" section of my owner's
> manual. I was looking to see if I could give you more information
> about where to look for the place to hook up the Flushing Kit if you
> don't have one already.
>
> I just noticed this warning in the owner's manual:
>
> "DO NOT run engine on flushing kit. Lack of sufficient water intake
> could cause overheating and damage to engine."
>
> I guess this answers your original question.
>
> Bob FRank
jimh
bobf...@media.com (Bob Frank) wrote:
> On Fri, 21 Apr 2000 13:41:37 GMT, W4...@lostonthe.net (Larry W4CSC)
> wrote:
> >Change out the BU8H straight plugs for BUZ8H resistor plugs (awfully
> >expense - $11+ at Pep Boys Auto). The straight plugs eat every piece
> >of electronics in the boat.
>
> The plugs damage other electronics in the boat? Or do you mean
> something else. Tell me more.
>
> > The resistor plugs are DEAD QUIET. I
> >think the awful price is why Merc doesn't use them.
>
> Please explain what you mean by "dead quiet." It doesn't take much of
> a benefit to justify $66, but I would like to know more about what
> you're talking about. Tell me more, please.
Larry was speaking idiomatically. He meant to say:
Non-resistor plugs generate and radiate broadband electrical noise
("ignition noise") over a spectrum of radio frequencies that interferes
with the operation of other radio frequency receiving devices.
Common radio frequency receiving devices on board a small vessel include
the VHF Marina Band Radiotelephone, the depth-sounder/Fish-finder sonar,
the Global Positioning Satellite receiver, the LORAN receiver, a
cellular telephone, and (you dont't have one of these, do you?) an AM-FM
Broadcast Band receiver.
All of these are susceptible to radiated interference from ignition
noise.
In additional, the noise may also propagate along your 12 Vdc
distribution, causing interference in other electronic devices, such as
an audio amplifier, which lack proper decoupling from their operating
voltage input sources. Or, the noise may enter as radiated noise and be
amplified as a result of poor design on the part of the audio amplifying
device.
Common audio amplifier devices aboard a small vesel include a VHF Marina
Band Radiotelephone, a AM-FM Broadcast Band receiver, a cassette player,
a CD player, and a hailer.
Really, _all_ the electronics on the boat that are hooked to the same
battery as the engine are susceptible to powerline carried noise
interference.
--
------------------------------------------------------------
James W. Hebert, K8SS | Classic Whaler Owners
Beverly Hills, Michigan| see
ji...@continuouswave.com| <http://continuouswave.com/whaler>
Bob Frank
wrote:
>> >Change out the BU8H straight plugs for BUZ8H resistor plugs (awfully
>> >expense - $11+ at Pep Boys Auto). The straight plugs eat every piece
>> >of electronics in the boat.
>>
>> The plugs damage other electronics in the boat? Or do you mean
>> something else. Tell me more.
>>
>
>Larry was speaking idiomatically. He meant to say:
I was speaking idiot-matically when I asked the question. ;-)
>
>Non-resistor plugs generate and radiate broadband electrical noise
>("ignition noise") over a spectrum of radio frequencies that interferes
>with the operation of other radio frequency receiving devices.
Well I did say I don't know mechanics. I guess that includes
electronics.
[much detail snipped]
>Really, _all_ the electronics on the boat that are hooked to the same
>battery as the engine are susceptible to powerline carried noise
>interference.
Thanks for the info.
All I have of that equipment is a cell phone and a AM/FM radio
receiver. Neither of them is usually in use when the engine is
running. If I get the new (to me) boat I'll see how bad the
interference is.
Bob Frank
Larry W4CSC
wrote:
>
>Common audio amplifier devices aboard a small vesel include a VHF Marina
>Band Radiotelephone,
>James W. Hebert, K8SS | Classic Whaler Owners
>Beverly Hills, Michigan| see
>ji...@continuouswave.com| <http://continuouswave.com/whaler>
Marina Band, eh.....
Freudian Slip......
Our marinas in Charleston THINK it's their band.....
Larry...W4CSC and other fine callsigns found only on the finest
frequencies.
marie...@gmail.com
> Hello, folks.
>
> I have a Bayliner Jazz with Mercury SportJet engine. The last time I had it
> in the water, it would not start. I took it to a local boat shop, and they
> replaced some sort of ignition module, and said it is fixed.
> I can't get it to a lake just yet to give it a test. Is it safe to start
> the motor just for a few seconds without water? I just want to verify that
> it does indeed start.
>
>
> -- Kyle D. Ross
First off, no it isnt okay to run ANY out of the water even for a few seconds. There maybe a few that can stand it, but what Can and MAY happen is; For those with an outboard type unit, the water pump, which is rubber, being turned inside of the metal housing with no water for lubrication has its "ears" torn off. Now it wont pump water for squat. It wont hurt the engine to not have water cooling it for a few seconds.
Next would be the "jets". If they are using any type of Cutlass bearings, which are rubber sleeves inside a bronze tube, the same thing happens. Try getting your skin super clean with alcohol, then taking a metal rod and twisting it against your skin. Watch it grab your skin and try to lift it around the rod.
I have been working on jets since they first came to America (which was the Buhler) and outboards for almost as long.
Mr. Luddite
Tim
4:32 PMMr. Luddite
- show quoted text -
Yes it does make one a bit curious. Or it does me at least