Oarlock questions
BetaB4
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).
My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.
The kinds of oarlocks that I see are: 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.
Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?
(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)
HK
I always preferred the "horn" (U-shaped oarlocks) without the retainer,
and oars with the "sleeve," as you call it. The round oarlocks were my
second choice.
Here's a nice supplier:
http://www.shawandtenney.com/marine-hardware.htm
I'll bet if you called the store, someone there would help you out with
the right stuff.
--
The modern GOP is little more than an army of moral absolutists led by a
gang of moral nihilists.
mmc
"BetaB4" <Bet...@ferbnm.jfs> wrote in message
news:h1asdv$n7b$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
wouldn't have spent the extra 50+ bucks on the longer oars either.
I'd do the sleeves, not just for prtecting the oars but also to quiet them
in the locks if you use the oars when fishing. I like the round locks,
pinned in, to avoid having the oar pop out of the lock and the lock lift out
of the socket.
Jim Willemin
news:h1asdv$n7b$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
<snip>
First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get
chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap
way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat
collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go).
Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup,
I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do
not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any
kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the
added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the
time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by
sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage
(and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a
technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for
round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock
becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about
losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks.
Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no
motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This
one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind,
and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like
riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back
after all that time like I had never stopped rowing.
Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you
happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple
of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give
you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade
wood.
mmc
"Jim Willemin" <jim***willemin@hot***mail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9C2D927A7468Dj...@216.196.97.131...
I don't know about you BetaB4, but I'm going to listen to this guy.
JustWaitAFrekinMinute!
Well, those oars really won't move the boat in even the slightest wind
or weather so what I would do is paint them orange and you can at
least use them to flag down help... Really, get whatever locks you
want and sleeves and then go down and take your boat out in a 5-10 mph
breeze and try to row it with 6 foot oars, you will sell them and get
proper oars after the first attempt. We all told you what oars and how
long they should be when you first posted. Not trying to be an ass,
but 6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The
leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not
there...
John H
If they're nicely varnished and have something cute painted on the
blades, the look great over the fireplace in your beach house!
http://www.originaloystershellart.com/images/b-cart/029.jpg
So, if you own a beach house or two, then they *are* more useful than
a couple of spoons.
--
John H
I once shook hands with a pudgy guy who:
Sailed from San Francisco to Hawaii.
Rounded Cape Horn, twice.
Transited the Panama Canal.
Has owned more than 20 boats in his lifetime.
Sailed large boats competitively.
Has been hundreds of miles from land in a powerboat
under his command.
And who set a new record for the most distance covered
and most fish caught in the Chesapeake Bay in the shortest
time!
Wayne.B
<justwaitaf...@gmail.com> wrote:
>6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The
>leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not
>there...
That's all true unfortunately. A 13 ft boat needs bigger oars, no
question about it.
You've gotten some good advice on oar locks also. My personal
preference would be round ones with collars on the oars. On a safety
note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in
use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them.
Richard Casady
<waynebatr...@hothail.com> wrote:
> On a safety
>note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in
>use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them.
Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with
Davy Jones.
Casady
HK
The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had
keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the
oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on
the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks.
--
"John H" <salmo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:lbv1u4l09up3apq8e...@4ax.com...
Please note that Interstate 90 will be closed this weekend across
South Dakota. This closure will allow the Federal Government free
access to haul a 200 ton piece of coal to Mt. Rushmore so that
President Obama can be added to the Presidents on the monument.
--
John H
--
John Herring, rec.boat's resident racist.
HK
> Richard Casady wrote:
>> On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B
>> <waynebatr...@hothail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On a safety
>>> note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in
>>> use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them.
>>
>> Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with
>> Davy Jones.
>>
>> Casady
>
>
> The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had
> keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the
> oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on
> the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks.
>
>
>
Here's a photo of similar oarlocks with the small hole at the bottom of
the shaft.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=305
Richard Casady
>> Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with
>> Davy Jones.
>>
>> Casady
>
>
>The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had
>keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the
>oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on
>the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks.
The rule of boats is that if you handle small untethered objects you
will eventually drop some of them over the side. It is never stuff
that floats.
The oarlocks for the duckboat I had as a kid were horn type with a pin
through the oar. Nonetheless, there was a hole in the end of the
shaft, pointless as that was.
Casady
Wayne.B
<richar...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>The oarlocks for the duckboat I had as a kid were horn type with a pin
>through the oar. Nonetheless, there was a hole in the end of the
>shaft, pointless as that was.
A pin through the oar is undesirable for two reasons: One, it weakens
the oar; and two, it prevents feathering the oar which creates a lot
of extra wind resistance.
A removable oarlock, not pinned to the oar, should have a chain
attached to the bottom ending in a small bar which prevents accidental
loss.
BetaB4
Based on what everyone wrote, my plan is to get round oarlocks, sleeves, and
buttons. I'll probably just return the oars I bought (I still have the
receipt) and look for longer oars elsewhere or order longer oars from the
place where I bought the oars that I have.
"BetaB4" <Bet...@ferbnm.jfs> wrote in message
news:h1asdv$n7b$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Don White
"BetaB4" <Bet...@qwersdfg.mnb> wrote in message
news:h1k3ng$k7s$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
This place goes up to 16' length in oars.
http://www.fancyoars-paddles.com/
Loogypicker
> Richard Casady wrote:
> > On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B
> > <waynebatrecdotbo...@hothail.com> wrote:
>
> >> On a safety
> >> note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in
> >> use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them.
>
> > Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with
> > Davy Jones.
>
> > Casady
>
> The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had
> keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the
> oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on
> the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks.
>
Didn't you take a rowboat to the Bahamas and get a fireboat welcome in
Freeport when you were a kid?
BetaB4
news:4a3daf16$0$23765$9a56...@news.aliant.net...
Thanks. That's an interesting website with a lot of good information.
Their prices seem very good too. Their prices are in Canadian currency
which means that when buying with U.S. dollars the price would be even less
(1 U.S. dollar = about 1.12 Canadian dollars).
They show how they make the oars, sizing information, etc.
Don White
"BetaB4" <Bet...@whaterverabc.opm> wrote in message
news:h1llfj$64n$1...@aioe.org...
If you could time it when our dollar is low.(a couple years ago) those oars
would be almost half price to you. ;-)
DK
I'm sure he did - twice.
BetaB4
I seem to be making myself crazy over this whole oars thing.
I called http://www.fancyoars-paddles.com/ to find out about buying 9-foot
oars. They were very nice. I have to send them an email with exactly what
I am interested in (9ft, straight blade, No. 1 Grade wood, varnished or
unvarnished, etc.) plus give my shipping address so they can calculate the
cost including shipping and then tell me what it would cost in U.S. dollars.
One thing I noticed and asked about was that the 9ft oars have a diameter of
2" at the butt end near the handles, so does that mean that if I buy round
oarlocks, I have to buy oarlocks that are larger than 2" inside diameter?
The oar handles do taper down to 1 5/8" near the blade end. Also, if I add
leathers or sleeves, I guess that means larger round oarlocks to accomodate
that? They said to include that question in my email, so I'll do that.
I have to decide on whether to get them varnished or unvarnished --
varnished cost about $16 (U.S.) more.
Over the phone, they estimated that the price in U.S. dollars would come to
about $107 unvarnished, or $123 varnished (includes shipping).
And, finally, I have to ask if they know approximately when I can get them
since they apparently do not have any in stock now and are backed up on
orders.
I also chcecked ebay and saw these for $124.99 "Buy It Now" with free
shipping:
These say that they have a smaller 1 1/2" shaft, but they don't say what
type of wood they are made of. The FancyOars-Paddles oars are made from
white spruce.
Jim Willemin
news:h1trm6$cei$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
Frankly, I'd go with the Fancy oars. The ones on eBay look a little
unbalanced for that length, the handles are varnished (good for working
up nice blisters, getting sticky, and generally less desireable than
straight mineral oil), and I prefer tapered handles to the barrel
handles. Further, I'm not sure I'd trust 1 1/2 inch looms not to break
at an inconvenient time. The Fancy oars are tapered, which gives you
strength where you need it, near the oarlock, and helps the balance on
those long oars. You would have to get oarlocks to fit, but I bet the
folks at Fancy could advise you on that. As to varnishing: if you do
it yourself, figure four to six coats of a good spar varnish; each coat
will take a day or two to dry to the point where you can sand it and
apply the next coat. So to varnish them yourself, you'd need to get a
quart of good spar varnish (ten bucks?), some paint thinner or mineral
spirits (three bucks), and a good brush (ten bucks). Then there is your
time varnishing and sanding. Sounds to me like USD 16 is a good deal,
and I'm sure that if you asked them about varnishing the handles or not
you would get good advice.
JustWaitAFrekinMinute!
Yeah, but their oars look like they were not finished.. square edges,
ugly in my opinon...
Try these guys, they have been doing it by hand forever...
http://www.shawandtenney.com/index.php
I have ordered their oars in the past, beautiful..
Look at a nice pair of spruce oars and like you said, round oarlocks,
sleeves, buttons...
Scotty from SmallBoats.com
Jim Willemin
AND furthermore: at over 5 inches blade width, the Ebay oars will prove
very tiring for a long pull... just sayin, y'know.
BetaB4
news:Xns9C349AFF85F82j...@216.196.97.131...
>
> Frankly, I'd go with the Fancy oars. The ones on eBay look a little
> unbalanced for that length, the handles are varnished (good for working
> up nice blisters, getting sticky, and generally less desireable than
> straight mineral oil), and I prefer tapered handles to the barrel
> handles. Further, I'm not sure I'd trust 1 1/2 inch looms not to break
> at an inconvenient time. The Fancy oars are tapered, which gives you
> strength where you need it, near the oarlock, and helps the balance on
> those long oars. You would have to get oarlocks to fit, but I bet the
> folks at Fancy could advise you on that. As to varnishing: if you do
> it yourself, figure four to six coats of a good spar varnish; each coat
> will take a day or two to dry to the point where you can sand it and
> apply the next coat. So to varnish them yourself, you'd need to get a
> quart of good spar varnish (ten bucks?), some paint thinner or mineral
> spirits (three bucks), and a good brush (ten bucks). Then there is your
> time varnishing and sanding. Sounds to me like USD 16 is a good deal,
> and I'm sure that if you asked them about varnishing the handles or not
> you would get good advice.
Thanks again for your thoughts on all of this.
I just got an email back from Fancy oars. $100 (U.S.) for unvarnished, $l16
(U.S.) for varnished -- both prices include shipping. They said that if I
decide to use leathers or sleeves, I would definitely need to use #1 (2 1/4"
I.D.) round oarlocks -- makes sense to me.
They look like good oars to me, and definitely better than the ones on eBay.
But, the bad news is that they wrote that the estimated time for them to
complete making my oars would be 2 months from the date that they receive my
payment. So, I wouldn't get them until the end of this summer.
Earlier today, I returned the 6 1/2 foot oars that I bought 2 weeks ago.
Now I have no oars. So, waiting until the end of this summer to get oars
won't work for me. :-(
BetaB4
news:Xns9C34AE2AEC054j...@216.196.97.131...
>
> AND furthermore: at over 5 inches blade width, the Ebay oars will prove
> very tiring for a long pull... just sayin, y'know.
The Fancy oars have a 5 1/4 inch blade. The eBay oars have a 5 inch blade.
The http://ShawAndTenney.com website says,
"Our flat blade oars are available in lengths from 4'-6" to 21' in 6"
increments. The standard flat blade is 5-1/2" wide and the blade length
varies in proportion to the oar length."
"Our narrow blade measures 4-5/8" wide. We recommend this blade for oars
longer than 8' to reduce outboard weight. For those who prefer its classic
appearance, this blade style is also available on shorter oars."
Vic Smith
wrote:
>
>Earlier today, I returned the 6 1/2 foot oars that I bought 2 weeks ago.
>Now I have no oars. So, waiting until the end of this summer to get oars
>won't work for me. :-(
Not sure where you live, but if needed oars fast I'd go to place that
rents boats and get some oars there. They're always ordering oars.
As long as you can get oars long enough, and they're only for when the
motor konks outs, I wouldn't be particular, even if they're used.
They might have the oarlocks already attached. Always drilled through
the oar type where I've rented boats.
Then all you need is sockets. Might get them at the boat rental place
too.
Don't let getting "the right oar" keep you off the water.
--Vic
BetaB4
the web address). The oars they are selling are double the cost of oars a
marine supply stores and triple the cost of the oars I checked out at Fancy
Oars and on eBay. I only have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat, so it
wouldn't make sense for me to spend $330 on a set of oars.
"JustWaitAFrekinMinute!" <justwaitaf...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ee9d08c9-2845-4f8b...@f33g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
BetaB4
news:p1f5455oku5318ios...@4ax.com...
>
> Not sure where you live, but if needed oars fast I'd go to place that
> rents boats and get some oars there. They're always ordering oars.
> As long as you can get oars long enough, and they're only for when the
> motor konks outs, I wouldn't be particular, even if they're used.
> They might have the oarlocks already attached. Always drilled through
> the oar type where I've rented boats.
> Then all you need is sockets. Might get them at the boat rental place
> too.
> Don't let getting "the right oar" keep you off the water.
Good idea. I'll check that out. Maybe they'll either have used oars for
sale or they will know someone who does. I have also been checking out
Craig's List etc. Used oars, new oars, it doesn't matter to me.
JustWaitAFrekinMinute!
> Thanks. I checked out their website before (I think you may have given me
> the web address). The oars they are selling are double the cost of oars a
> marine supply stores and triple the cost of the oars I checked out at Fancy
> Oars and on eBay. I only have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat, so it
> wouldn't make sense for me to spend $330 on a set of oars.
>
>
> news:ee9d08c9-2845-4f8b...@f33g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
>
> Yeah, but their oars look like they were not finished.. square edges,
> ugly in my opinon...
>
> Try these guys, they have been doing it by hand forever...
>
> http://www.shawandtenney.com/index.php
>
> I have ordered their oars in the past, beautiful..
>
> Look at a nice pair of spruce oars and like you said, round oarlocks,
> sleeves, buttons...
Sounds good enough for me.. Yeah, S+T oars are expensive... Either
way, look for tapered oars and the hardware you seem to already be
sold on... You will do fine. How long are the oard you ordered?
BetaB4
>
> Sounds good enough for me.. Yeah, S+T oars are expensive... Either
> way, look for tapered oars and the hardware you seem to already be
> sold on... You will do fine. How long are the oard you ordered?
The oars that I originally bought by mistake were 6 1/2 feet long (Caviness
Basswood BW65). I bought them about two weeks ago, and returned them
yesterday. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a 60 inch span
between the oarlocks.
The oars that I have been checking out and pricing at S&T, Fancy Oars, eBay
etc. are 9 feet, but I didn't place any order yet.
Richard Casady
<jim***willemin@hot***mail.com> wrote:
>the handles are varnished (good for working
>up nice blisters, getting sticky, and generally less desireable than
>straight mineral oil),
Yes of course. Mineral oil never drys and destroys wood, but it is
just what you want. Don't even consider boiled linseed oil, as that
stuff will dry hard, and protect the wood.
Casady
JustWaitAFrekinMinute!
9 feet works out about right. You may actually enjoy rowing the boat,
a good setup can be very relaxing actually. If the entry edges are to
square or "hard" it can lead to shoulder fatugue or even injury. That
is what I noticed about the oars you linked to. Of course if you are
buying them unfinished you could always round the entry a bit before
you apply your finish. Just don't take too much away from the paddle
area. Even a small 1" to 1 1/2" radius will make a huge difference in
the "hit" when the oars enter the stroke.. Of course if you are only
using them in an emergency it shouldn't make much difference. Either
way, the right size oars may have you rowing more often than you
expected...
Good luck, Scotty
phili...@gmail.com
Poquito Loco
Is the question still pertinent?
phili...@gmail.com
phili...@gmail.com
> "Jim Willemin" <jim***willemin@hot***mail.com> wrote in message
> > "BetaB4" <Bet...@ferbnm.jfs> wrote in
> > news:h1asdv$n7b$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
> >
> > First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get
> > chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap
> > way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat
> > collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go).
> >
> > Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup,
> > I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do
> > not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any
> > kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the
> > added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the
> > time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by
> > sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage
> > (and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a
> > technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for
> > round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock
> > becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about
> > losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks.
> >
> > Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no
> > motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This
> > one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind,
> > and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like
> > riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back
> > after all that time like I had never stopped rowing.
> >
> > Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you
> > happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple
> > of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give
> > you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade
> > wood.
>
> I don't know about you BetaB4, but I'm going to listen to this guy.
Hi BetaB4, My name is Philip. It sounds to me like you are experienced @ rowing. I'm seeking advice on achieving the correct height of my oars above the gunwales.Currently they are to low between my legs to row.Any help will be appreciated.
Poquito Loco
in rec.boats within the past few years.
It sounds like you're trying to raise the oarlock mount on your jon boat. Perhaps a couple pictures
would help out. There are some folks here who can come up with some good fabricating ideas.
gfre...@aol.com
longer but I fear that would put a lot of extra stress on the socket.
If you could extend that longer rod through the bottom of the socket
and anchor it to the bottom of the boat somehow you would transfer
some of that load.
The other way would be to extend the socket up with an "A" frame that
supports it on the gunwale fore and aft. You still have the issue of
side to side stresses.
Califbill
Poquito Loco
an engine or the oars were his primary power source.
Justan Olphart
breaks.? Have you considered a backup sail rig?