Best Anti-fouling Marine Paint for Aluminum Outdrives (Pigmented)?

frank1492

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Jun 17, 2002, 11:27:48 PM6/17/02

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Have tried several for use on Cape Cod and at the end of the season,
the drive is a real mess.
Does anyone have suggestions? I would prefer something that can
be applied with a brush.
Thanks very much for your help!
Frank

MadCow57

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Jun 18, 2002, 5:43:28 AM6/18/02

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>>Have tried several for use on Cape Cod and at the end of the season,

the drive is a real mess.<< -- Frank1492

Would that be a Bravo III outdrive by any chance?

frank1492

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Jun 18, 2002, 8:38:29 AM6/18/02

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Actually it's an OMC...

K. Smith

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Jun 20, 2002, 7:55:30 PM6/20/02

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frank1492 wrote:

Any of the recommended for aluminium are OK but when you say a "mess"
you mean it's got growth not corrosion??

You need to use the correct anti foul & in general terms they doesn't
last as well as the copper ones. Don't fall for the copper on the hull
then proper aluminium just on the drive, because the drives get their real
electrolysis damage inside, where the hot salt water laden exhaust
travels, the gearbox roof etc & if you have ablative copper on the hull it
will allow enough washed off copper into the leg to do damage.

We're all watching for the outcome of MadCow's corrosion case, but she
describes the corrosion as being on the outside of the leg, which tends to
indicate a power source in the marina or nearby boat type problem
particularly if the internal areas of the leg, (exhaust track etc. etc.)
are not similarly corroded, after all they have virtually no protection at
all.

K

Ev Collier

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Jun 27, 2002, 3:44:38 PM6/27/02

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Michael Kasten (Metal boat designer) says that the best he's seen
recently is NO-Foul ZDF made by the E-Paint Company. Practical Sailor
did a controlled study over several years and this stuff outperformed
all others.

Worth a try.

Ev

Charley

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Jun 30, 2002, 1:11:02 PM6/30/02

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Frank,

When you paint your outdrive, are you also painting the zinc anodes? This is
a real No-No.

Make sure the anodes are exposed so the salt has them to eat or it will eat
everything else. My 21' 1985 Sea Ray SRV210 with OMC drive has seen mostly
fresh water since we bought it 5 years ago. I'm not sure where it spent it's
former life, but it's former owner had painted the anodes on the outdrive
and some pretty significant corrosion had resulted. We cleaned all of the
paint off of the anodes and then cleaned up and re-painted the drive. It's
been doing real well ever since. The anodes are going to need to be replaced
in another year or two though.

Since we're fresh water based, most any bottom paint seems to work OK for
us. Hopefully someone else will have a good suggestion for you on that.
--
Charley

"frank1492" <fran...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
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alex

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Jun 30, 2002, 1:56:38 PM6/30/02

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Have used trilux from international on my volvo outdrive for the first
season now. Sofar good results. Only a thin layer of slime develops
which can be wiped off easy.
It's an non eroding teflon based antifouling which contains some kind
of biocide. Best of all, it's alloy-compatible. (doesn't eat away the
aluminium of your outdrive).

I keep the boat mainly in fresh water.