Support points
Steve B
that looks like a combination of three trailers, plus some homemade welding
thrown in. In the back at the heaviest point are two planks that look like
they have rollers in them that support most of the boat's weight. There are
two side guides, and the receiver Y shaped rubber yoke in front. Should I
add a couple or three of spool rollers under the keel? I do need to add a
couple of little guides up front where it sometimes does not come straight
into the Y if I am too deep with the trailer. Or should I watch the loading
more closely, and try to power on? Still, powering on, with the flat
planks, the boat may tend to miss the front Y. If I can get it centered on
the keel rollers, it should be kept straight by the two side plank guides
that are just under the gunnels when the whole rig is out of the water.
Just how much support should one put under a boat on a trailer?
Steve
Scott Dickson
I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer. Get rollers.
Steve B
"Scott Dickson" <slamm...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cf18fd99-401a-41af...@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
Thank you for the help.
Jim
is just for balance.
Scott Dickson
> "Scott Dickson" <slammer...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Well, you didnt include any type of picture....so......
Steve B
"Jim" <??@**.com> wrote
> pretty near all boats can be supported by their keel. Any other support is
> just for balance.
Thank you for your short informative answer. This tells me a lot about what
to do next. My main concern was about supporting the boat, and your info
answered that question exactly.
Steve
H the K
Rob
That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on
both of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level
and in very good condition. Then there is the saltwater problem with
rollers...
Rob
Steve B
"Rob" <R...@getgmail08.com> wrote
>
> That would depend on the ramps in your area. I have bunk trailers on both
> of my boats and would never have rollers. The ramps here are level and in
> very good condition. Then there is the saltwater problem with rollers...
>
> Rob
I can see where that is a difference. In the south, we had tilt trailers,
as the ramps went down, and then the concrete or asphalt ended, and there
was usually a dropoff. And salt water does make a difference in everything
it touches. Our ramps here are gradual on the small lakes we have here in
Utah. I'm looking at a protractor, and I'd say 30 degrees plus or minus.
Hardly enough that I have seen anyone spin the tires on launching, or really
have a hard time pulling out.
My main thing is that I bought this used, and I really just don't like the
looks of it. The other advice that the keel can support almost all the
weight helped head me in one direction.
FWIW, I don't like to pull in very deep to launch or recover. So, I have
the taillights on top the gunnell guides. I like to back up until the motor
is in the water, and the rear end floats a bit. What I do next depends on
whether I launch by myself, or another person is in the truck. When I have
an assistant, I disconnect the winch, take the bowline, and walk along the
dock, have them back up until the boat fully floats, and pull the boat back
clear of the trailer.
My problem seems to be on retrieval, as it is hard to estimate how deep to
pull in the trailer so that it isn't floating too freely and I have a hard
time hooking up the bow eye because it is floating too high. I need to have
it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers,
then power the boat up a little. Then hook the winch snap on the eye, and
continue to pull out. (I have seen two boats dropped on ramps with the
strap disconnected from the bow eye, one launching, one retrieving.)
Hope that this description helps to explain what I'm trying to do.
Currently, the trailer only has two long skids under the rear, a couple of
12"misaligned rollers towards the front that just touch at the end of the
rollers, and the Y that receives the bow keel. Looks narly just looking at
it, and I don't know that much about trailers, other than it doesn't look
too good to me.
I'm a welder, so have no problem cutting out the old and fitting new rollers
or hardware. And I have enough rigging experience to jack the boat up a
little to cut out the old and fit the new so it is a glove fit. Just not
sure what types or how many.
It's a Lund 16' Aluminum with 40 Merc, but it has flooring and console and
bench which adds just a few pounds more than a bare aluminum boat of the
same length.
Steve
I am Tosk
says...
I am sure my 16 foot Brockway is heavier than your boat and I am able to
winch it up the last couple of feet. I just center it and put it on
about half way first... Put some bunk carpet down on the bunks and when
it's wet, it should slide on nicely.
Don White
"Steve B" <desert...@dishmail.net> wrote in message
news:m2rrt6-...@news.infowest.com...
The conventional wisdom...
bunks if you store your boat on the trailer for long periods
rollers if you launch and recover a lot
Bill McKee
Bunks work very well. Especially on light aluminum boats. My heavy duty
aluminum boat sets on bunks faced with UHMW plastic. Boat slides real easy.
Rollers on thin guage aluminum will bend the aluminum in the contact area.
But my Valco 14' had the front keel roller support fail. And the boat
rested on the front of the bunk, and cracked the bottom at the contact
point. So after welding the bottom, I extended the bunks far enough forward
that the boat could not rest on the end of the bunk. Plus there is a less
problem with a bunk that rollers. And do not use treated lumber for bunks
on an aluminum boat. The copper will react with the aluminum.
I am Tosk
bmckee...@ix.netcom.com says...
Pffftttt. Short fat Dickster tried to be an ass, and succeded... Now
that's funny... Guess we know better than to listen to him.
Scott Dickson
> In article <JJmdnSzjjq5JEJbWnZ2dnUVZ_qCdn...@earthlink.com>,
> bmckeespam...@ix.netcom.com says...
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Steve B" <deserttra...@dishmail.net> wrote in message
> >news:mbpqt6-...@news.infowest.com...
>
> > > "Scott Dickson" <slammer...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Oh LOOK.... It's the Oompaloompa, Snotty Ingersoll. We ALL know better
than to listen to you, stumpy.
Vic Smith
<desert...@dishmail.net> wrote:
> I need to have
>it so I can come in to something that centers the boat on the keel rollers,
>then power the boat up a little.
Can't remember ever having a problem lining up my friends 18' but he
ran that show.
I have seen that Carolina Skiff owners put PCV pipes sticking up on
the trailer sides to act as guides to center the boat.
--Vic
Don White
"Vic Smith" <thismaila...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:72png55cdj937l7qm...@4ax.com...
Guides help with retrieving if you boat in a windy area...such as here most
of the time.
Don White
***************************************
~~ Snerk ~~. The Freak calling someone else "short"??
LMAO
Rob
>
> ~~ Snerk ~~. The Freak calling someone else "short"??
> LMAO
>
>
Once again you are jumping into a post that had NOTHING to do with you
with this crap. Is this how your mission to improve this group works?
You better get a new plan, dummy.
Rob
Rob
You have a damn rowboat with a tiny OB on back and you need guides?
Real men winch it up and, if it's not perfectly straight, pick up the
ass end and make it straight.
Rob
Rob
Total bullshit. The two types of trailers have nothing to do with
storage time and everything to do with launching and ramp conditions, SFB.
Rob
Steve B
"Rob" <R...@getgmail00.com> wrote
> Total bullshit. The two types of trailers have nothing to do with storage
> time and everything to do with launching and ramp conditions, SFB.
>
> Rob
Logic would agree with that.
Wayne.B
<desert...@dishmail.net> wrote:
>I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer.
Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples".
Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long time.
Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no
ramp at all.
I am Tosk
R...@getgmail00.com says...
Forget him, he is just trying to get sober and climbing off the baby
rat...
I am Tosk
R...@getgmail00.com says...
Bonnie talking about "conventional wisdom", now that's funny...
Bill McKee
My trailers have side guides. Helps in wind and current and ocean swells.
Bill McKee
"Wayne.B" <waynebatr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:n79pg55rcscp2tqn0...@4ax.com...
The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots of
support.
John H
Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special plastic.
What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks?
--
John H
Bill McKee
"John H" <salmo...@gmail.dotcom> wrote in message
news:2laqg5lm6jdjtr3gp...@4ax.com...
UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but you can
also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good plastics
supplier.
http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm
They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks slide out
easier.
Rob
Of course. But not according to "conventional wisdom" as the group
dumbass stated.
Rob
John H
<bmckee...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How
thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the
strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts?
I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a
picture by any chance?
--
John H
Don White
"John H" <salmo...@gmail.dotcom> wrote in message
Good Lord.
A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'.
Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves'
Bill McKee
"Don White" <whi...@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4b0f5f33$0$5325$9a56...@news.aliant.net...
So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter than
you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the material. Mine
is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the cost is probably
close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads.
Bill McKee
"John H" <salmo...@gmail.dotcom> wrote in message
http://www.roguejet.com/aluminum_trailers.asp
will show you a trailer like mine.
Don White
"Bill McKee" <bmckee...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:-audnV2F_v8d_5LW...@earthlink.com...
Well...here's something to ponder genius...
I was told that if grit gets between the plastic and a gelcoat surface, it's
more likely to scratch than if the grit gets caught up in a carpeted bunk.
I was told to apply 'Joy' or 'New Dawn' liquid dish soap on the bunks. When
they get wet, they'll be slippery enough and when dry..hold the boat in
place a bit better.
H the K
Another problem reported with the plastic sliders...the screws that
fasten them to the wood bunks sometimes come loose, leaving a screwhead
exposed to grind its way through the gelcoat on the bottom of your boat
as you launch and retrieve it.
The liquid soap works. I use a silicon spray, forgot the trade name,
that is sold to lube trailer bunks. We're also "blessed" with some
decent ramps around here, well-paved, and steep enough to make launching
and retrieval fairly easy.
--
If you are flajim, herring, loogy, GC boater, johnson, topbassdog, rob,
achmed the sock puppet, or one of a half dozen others, you're wasting
your time by trying to *communicate* with me through rec.boats, because,
well, you are among the permanent members of my dumbfoch dumpster, and I
don't read the vomit you post, except by accident on occasion. As
always, have a nice, simple-minded day.
I am Tosk
salmo...@gmail.dotcom says...
You can get sheets at Home Depot iirc. It came in 3/4 inch thick strips
when I saw it..
John H
<bmckee...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
Gotcha, thanks!
--
John H
Bill McKee
"H the K" <naled...@mypacks.net> wrote in message
news:7na7m8F...@mid.individual.net...
I run a 3/16"thick aluminum boat. Run the flat head screws through the wood
bunk and use a lock nut. A little grit will just polish the bottom. There
are also Glide strips, check West Marine, or Cabela's etc. May be better on
a glass boat.
John H
<bmckee...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
I suppose a real dumb ass would allow the screws to come loose and
scratch up the bottom of the boat.
My trailer manufacturer, Venture, sells them as an accessory. I'll
check them out once the holidays are over.
Thanks for the info, by the way.
--
John H
John H
<gene.b...@tranquilrefuge.net> wrote:
>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 09:57:11 -0500, H the K <naled...@mypacks.net>
>wrote:
>
>>We're also "blessed" with some
>>decent ramps around here, well-paved, and steep enough to make launching
>>and retrieval fairly easy
>
>A point to be made is that this plastic is SO slick you'll winch your
>boat on and off of them.... assuming the ramps are as steep as ours.
>
>Another Catch-22 is that if you are considering bunks for an aluminum
>boat, don't use treated lumber. The new stuff is VERY corrosive....
>especially to aluminum.....
Thanks Gene. I winch mine for both launching and retrieval so they'll
be a help.
--
John H
Rob
Who told you that?
Rob