stuck outboard flywheel removal info sought!!!!!!!

[tom...@westelcom.com]

?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

[Lawrence]

In article <5klvgc$4...@news.emi.com>, tom...@westelcom.com says...

Does it have threaded holes for a puller?

[JBerger521]

I work as an automobile mechanic and motorcycle mechanic. Heat should work
well on this flywheel problem ... just keep a couple of things in mind.
1. use acetylene. It is much hotter than butane or natural gas.
2. heat flywheel quickly so heat does not flow to shaft and other parts.
3. move flame in a circle around the shaft but don't heat the shaft.
4. the heat will either expand the hole or expand the flywheel to break
the bond between flywheel and shaft.
5. If flywheel is magnetized (as some old models utilizing a magneto
system were) the magnetism may be reduced or nullified. As Most engines
use electronic ignition, you should be okay.
6. Use proper gloves so you don't burn your fingers!
7. If heat does not seem to work at first, let flywheel cool off for a
couple of hours and see if heat/cooling cycle worked before applying more
heat and possibly causing unecessary damage to other parts.
Good luck

[cscu...@erols.com]

On 14 May 1997 00:28:50 GMT, jberg...@aol.com (JBerger521) wrote:

>I work as an automobile mechanic and motorcycle mechanic. Heat should work
>well on this flywheel problem ... just keep a couple of things in mind.
>1. use a

>2. heat
>3. move fla
>4. the he

>
>5. If flywheel is magnetized (as some old models utilizing a magneto
>system were) the magnetism may be reduced or nullified. As Most engines
>use electronic ignition, you should be okay.
>6. Use proper gloves so you don't burn your fingers!
>7. If heat does not seem to work at first, let
>

>Good luck
The above is NOT the correct procedure for removing a flywheel from
an outboard motor nor any other TAPERED SHAFT fit. If you are not
properly trained and equipped with proper tools you are a safety
hazard to yourself and bystanders. Almost all outboards DO use
magnets in their flywheels for battery charging and or ignition
timing. DON'T heat it, you do not need to. You need to :(A) loosen
flywheel nut....or reinstall to almost touching if you have it off,
(B) use a puller tool or find two bars two to three feet long (C)
wind up the puller bolt to a few pounds of tension (not too much) or
hold each bar under the flywheel about 180 degrees apart, exert a few
pounds of pressure on each tward removing the flywheel,(D) with a
hammer of softer material than the flywheel nut, strike the puller
bolt end (they are made for this) or the flywheel NUT (or end of the
crankshaft if many threads rise above the nut___but protect the
threads from damage) fewer than six stout blows from a solid but
maleable hammer should release the TAPERED fit. When the flywheel
releases from the shaft you will probably hear it POP off. If the
threads have become slightly damaged when you remove the nut it will
restore the threads, replace the nut with a brand new one regardless.

[Tom Jefferson]

Your method seems to be the correct way to remove a flywheel under
normal circumstances, however many outboards are not normal and have
corroded in onto the shaft, but if they all came off as easy as you
describe we probably wouldn't be having this dicussion...
Good Luck For maintainence Tips...Click Here
http://fdt.gnv.net/~tomjefsn/maintips.htm
Tom

[77neil...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, May 6, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, tom...@westelcom.com wrote:
> ?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
> oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
> on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
> Thanks in advance

> tom.

Let this be my legacy. I have been having this problem too. If you heat the flywheel it must cool down first because the hole in the center is actually getting smaller and the shaft it sits on is getting larger. If it isn't releasing after heating it and using a proper threaded on puller. I am going to see if I can try doing this because heating it will wreck everything underneath like the electronics and crankshaft sensor stuff. I am going to try using liquid nitrogen from a compressed can. Not sure where someone can purchase this. Freezing the flywheel and shaft while freezing the flywheel will actually make the shaft smaller in diameter. The hole in the flywheel will actually get larger rather than smaller because the size of the surrounding metal will "pull" the hole outward because of the mass of metal. Just as it actually makes the hole smaller when it is heated and what I believe this is why we can't get our flywheels off is because they are so bonded already, that heating is actually making them stay more bonded. Heck, if I had the resources and a big enough necessity, I would purchase a large deep freezer and put the whole power head in it for a couple days and then take it out and quickly use a flywheel puller. Freezing seems the safest proper way. Wether or not it can be achieved is the question.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 28 Aug 2016 21:38:48 -0700 (PDT), 77neil...@gmail.com
wrote:

Heating the flywheel will help in getting it off and you can usually
shrink the shaft with a little chunk of dry ice but be careful with
the heat. If you get it too hot you will lose the magnets that make
the stator work
What kind of puller are you using?
On my Mercs I have had luck just cranking down on the puller as tight
as I can get it (leave the nut on a few threads so the flywheel won't
"fly") and go to bed. The next morning it will usually be free. It is
something about the cooling off at night or maybe the flywheel fairy
just comes by and hits it with her wand.

[Wayne.B]

On Sun, 28 Aug 2016 21:38:48 -0700 (PDT), 77neil...@gmail.com
wrote:

> I am going to try using liquid nitrogen from a compressed can. Not sure where someone can purchase this.

===

Liquid nitrogen is dangerous to handle and requires vacuum insulated
storage containers to keep it from boiling off. You're probably
better off to use a can of R134a refrigerant along with a can tap,
valve and hose - all available at your local auto parts store. Be
aware that cooling metal rapidly creates internal stresses that can
make it brittle and subject to breakage.

[tm3...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, tom...@westelcom.com wrote:
> ?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
> oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
> on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
> Thanks in advance
> tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

[John H]

You'd think that after 20 years the WD40 may have loosened it up. Personally, I'd go for PB B'laster
instead of WD40.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), tm3...@gmail.com wrote:

I have had a lot of luck by putting the puller on cranking it down as
tight as you can get it and walk away. Sometime over night they
usually pop off. Be sure to leave the nut on loosely so when the
flywheel pops loose, it won't fall to the ground. If it is not loose
by morning use a heat gun to warm up the flywheel and put ice on the
shaft. (circuit cooler, dry ice or whatever)
If you get it too hot you will destroy the magnets.

[Keyser Soze]

I'd guess that Force 85 now resides in the Outboard Happy Hunting Ground
at the bottom of a bay somewhere...

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H <salmo...@gmail.com>
wrote:

WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)

[John H]

I've always had pretty good luck with PB Blaster, but agree that a bit of heat has it's uses.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 12:56:41 -0500, Keyser Soze <no...@jose.com>
wrote:

The flywheel trick works the same way on a brand new Yamaha. You
actually have to do it more often because of the belt. On a 2 stroke
you usually only pull the flywheel to replace the stator.
I actually had mine off within a month on my F70, to drill and tap the
water manifold for a temp sensor.
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/water%20temp%20sensor.jpg

I also had to trick up an oil pressure sensor because Yamaha thought
oil pressure was not important for any more than a switch.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 14:16:55 -0500, John H <salmo...@gmail.com>

Blaster works on threads because they are not really that a tight a
fit and it penetrates the corrosion in the gap. The flywheel is a
tapered surface matching another tapered surface. A gas valve works
the same way and it is gas tight even under moderate spring pressure.
When you put a nut on that and torque it down they are almost friction
welded together.
Most of the help I see with blaster is really after it starts to move
anyway. It keeps you from galling up your new found freedom and allows
you to keep going.

[Tim]

Dec 10gfre...@aol.com

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H <salmo...@gmail.com>
wrote:

- show quoted text -

WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)

.....

I’ve found that tapping (with reasonable force) around the hub of the flywheel with a hammer helps to unstick the wheel from the tapered shaft. It’s always rusty in and especially around the key....

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 07:48:57 -0800 (PST), Tim <tsch...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Yup, anything to break that seal. You just need to be careful not to
hit things too hard. The puller is still the main thing tho. Once you
get that force on the joint, the shock (thermal or mechanical) is far
more effective. I haven't tried it but I hear that dry ice works
great. Heat up the flywheel with a heat gun and put a chunk of dry ice
on the end of the shaft. (Never had easy access to dry ice)
I have used freon based circuit cooler back when that was a thing.

[Bill]

You can buy dry ice at our local grocery store.

[John H]

Our local Safeway carried it for a while, maybe a whole summer, but then stopped. Don't know why.

[Tim]

John H

- show quoted text -

Our local Safeway carried it for a while, maybe a whole summer, but then stopped. Don't know why.

....
None of our local stores carry it.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 19:01:48 -0000 (UTC), Bill
<califbill9...@gmail.com> wrote:

They had it at publix for a while but I have not seen it lately. I
guess they couldn't sell it before it just went away.