Thinking seriously of reusing the exsisting shift cable and sheath cable
after washing out the sheath as the assembly is in good shape. Not sure
what is the proper lubricant as Seloc's manual only advises light weight
oil to lubricate the cable. Don't want to use anything that would get
gummy with moisture any recommendations? Boat is not used in salt water.
-Larry
ljo...@primenet.com
--
Jim Clark
Custom Yacht Services
Marshfield, Massachusetts
(EMAIL) custom-yac...@worldnet.att.net
(WEB PAGE) http://home.att.net/~custom-yacht-services
Larry G. Olsen wrote in message ...
...Lee
> Had trouble last season shifting without stalling the engine. Now with
> the boat in the garage I pulled the outdrive. Was surprised to see
> considerable outdrive oil draining from the bellows. The shift slide was
> totally covered with oily sludge and the attached cable felt like it was
> covered with molasses when I withdrew it from the sheath.
U-joint yoke has likely formed a groove where the seal rides (replace the
shaft and seal) . This is so common, in fact, that I stock this part and I'm
an OMC dealer. :-)
> Thinking seriously of reusing the exsisting shift cable and sheath cable
> after washing out the sheath as the assembly is in good shape.
Never! This cable is the cause of most shift related problems and it's cheap
enough that 'saving' it for future use is false economy. Merc also makes a
bushing and seal kit for the shoft arm (that retrofits to older units) to keep
the water out of the shift cable (the reason most go in the first place).
--
Regards,
Dave Brown
Brown's Marina
http://www.brownsmarina.on.ca/
--
Jim Clark
Custom Yacht Services
Marshfield, Massachusetts
(EMAIL) custom-yac...@worldnet.att.net
(WEB PAGE) http://home.att.net/~custom-yacht-services
Dave Brown wrote in message
<365C80FA...@brownsmarina.on.ca>...
> Your gearlube in the bellows is as a result of either overfilling the
> drive or a bad seal. As far as the shift cable goes, I'd replace it
> rather than go through the grief of re-lubricating. The replacement
> shift cable is slightly different in style as it threads from the back
> of the housing rather than from the front. As a part of the change you
> will need to tap the hole out all the way through. When tapping, be
> sure to start on the inside and work your way out.
This would normally be good advice except that it's a pipe thread, and in order
for it to work properly it must be tapped from the outside.
> I think I here an echo here, Dave. ;-)
That's erie, isn't it? It's like we're the same person......
I've been using a non tapered tap and, in order to get the threads to
line up, I go from the inside of the bell housing running the tap
through the old threads. I've seen other guys go from the back but they
always tear up the old threads when they are done. The cable will still
hold in place but there is only 3/8" or so of good thread for it to grab
ahold of.
...Lee