Trailer surge brakes dragging, help??

[Margaret and Loren Block]

I assume you have hydraulic DISC surge brakes...

We have a '98 Performance trailer that had a similar problem with
brakes dragging. There were two problems...

1. The calipers were not well aligned with the rotors. This was
corrected by loosing the bolts holding the calipers to the flange and
repositioning. Then the bolts were tightened according to torquing
specs that came with the brakes. Too much torque cause skewing of the
calipers and binding on the rotor. Make sure the all nuts used are
the locking type.

2. There was insufficient hydraulic pressure release with the tongue
extended. Since both brakes (hubs) got hot, this is the more likely
scenario. Check for this condition by releasing the hydraulic
pressure (open bleed valves) and see if the wheel rotates somewhat
freely. (There will usually be more drag than on the wheels that
don't have brakes.) If the wheels rotate then hydraulic back pressure
was causing the problem. This may be caused by some crud (rust?)
that's plugging the outlet of the master cylinder and keeping the
hydraulic pressure from being released. Also, for disk brakes, this
outlet should be punctured when installing a new master cylinder. You
might try bleeding the brakes to provide a flushing action. The
backup solenoid should be checked also. Make sure it "clicks" when
the tow vehicle is placed in gear.

Given all the heat that has been generated during your last trip, the
best bet might be to replace the hubs, disks, and rotors. The system
has probably suffered considerable wear. These come as a package,
with the rotors already installed on the hubs. While you're at it,
swap out the master cylinder and backup solenoid too.

Let us know the solution that works for you...

Good luck,

LB

Margaret & Loren Block Georgetown, TX
C22 #14903 "Perfect Harmony"
Here's one way to do it...
http://www.angelfire.com/tx4/lorendi/bvi.htm

[Leggester]

I'd definitely pull a tire and check the brakes. Are the pads still good?
Also, up front where the surge brakes 'push' into the trailer - is it free
moving or did you maybe get some gravel/sand in there?

Sounds like the plunger is still pushed in at the surge housing. Had this
happen to an old trailer of mine. Opened the master cylinder, and pulled
it out wiht a come along.

[MPerlst216]

could also be bad wheel bearings

[Steve Barker]

Someone mentioned disc brakes. If they're drum however.(much more common)
I would suspect that maybe they are just adjusted up too tight. Just a
possibility.

s

Steve Holzworth <steve@ChromeEdge_eek_.com> wrote in message
news:steve-ya02358000...@news-server.nc.rr.com...
>
> A week or so ago, I went camping/boating at a lake about an hour from
> home. On the way there, I noticed that the truck (98 F150 5.4L) would
> sort of hesitate at times, almost like an ignition loss feels. I didn't
> think much of it at the time, and spent the weekend playing. On the way
> back, the same thing happened, but this time, i smelled something hot.
> I pulled over and checked the front hubs of the trailer. They were
> hot. This was interstate driving, so there was very little braking
involved.
> I assumed that the brakes were dragging, but was in the middle of podunk,
> so I proceeded to pull on home, with some dragging. Needless to say,
> things were hot when I finally got home, hot enough that the wheels
> were even hot, and I managed to boil some of the grease out of the hubs
> (oh joy!). Dragging a trailer also gives you interesting gas mileage...
>
> Here are the particulars:
>
> It's a 98 EZ-Loader tandem aluminum trailer carrying a 22' Stingray. Total
> package is probably about 4300#s. The trailer really doesn't have that
> much mileage on it (unfortunately). The dragging occurred while traveling
> at highway speed, and didn't appear to be related to up or downhill
travel.
> The actuator seemed to be fully extended. Both sides got hot, so it
> doesn't seem to be just a single side brake or hub causing the problem.
> The master cylinder is full. Only the front hubs (with brakes) got hot.
> The trailer has torsion axles, and a flow-through lubrication system, sort
> of like a fancy Bearing Buddy, except that you pump grease into the hub
> and the old grease is forced out through a valving system out the other
> side of the axle. The trailer has never been in salt water, but does get
> routinely dunked in fresh water. At the end of last season, I refilled
> the hubs as per manufacturer's instructions, via pumping a tube of marine
> grease through each hub. The wheels are equipped with a flushing system,
> but I've never flushed it, given the lack of saltwater use. These are
> drum brakes.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? Is this something a normal brake place can
> deal with? Anything I'm likely to be able to figure out myself? (I've
> worked on cars alot). Someone else mentioned the possibility of air in
> the lines, but I would think that that would reduce brake function, not
> lock them. Is there likely to be a proportioning valve somewhere that
> is restricting pressure release on the lines? (I've never had to work
> on surge brakes before.) Any help would be appreciated.
>
> --
> (remove "_eek_" from return address)
>
> Steve Holzworth "Do not attribute to poor spelling,
> steve@ChromeEdge_eek_.com "That which is actually poor typing..."
> RTP, NC - me

[Pat Oppenheimer]

You mentioned you had drum brakes... I had a similar problem with more time
on the master cylinder. The master cylinder needed rebuilding which
corrected the problem. I would ck for obstruction at the back of the master
cylinder or plunger binding first.

As you stated that both hubs were equally hot, I'd bet the problem is not in
either drum... But you'd better ck the bearings to see if they were
damaged...

[DaveO]

Steve, I've had the brake pads on drum type brakes swell and lock-up the wheel
on my trailer. I would suggest you pull the drum and get inside to check it out
soon.
If you have an electric lock-out device in line, (a 1 1/2 tube near the top of
the brake line) they can also cause problems by not allowing fluid to return to
the reservoir. If you have one try disconnecting it electrically and drive the
trailer a bit. Good Luck.

[CaptMP]

Had the same tbl last year-two of four wheel cylinders had rusted in the "sorta
on/sorta off position" And the next time I slowed the rig (OK perhaps not the
NEXT time but close..) the brake return springs didn't (couldn't) and the
brakes stayed partially engaged. My Dodge diesel didn't much notice but
everyone else on Interstate 8 did! Look fwd to rebuilding the brake system,
and if you don't already have disc brakes, concider it. I guess disc brakes
can corrode too, but may be easier to fix.
The ocean will win in the end, despite our best efforts.
Mike