SeaDoo Speedster Jet Boats?
Bozo
Does anyone know any reliability issues with the Speedster Jet Boats,
especially
the 1995 year? I don't have a clue how to figure these things out. I
think the
powerplant (actually 2 engines) should be pretty reliable, rotax engines
that have
been around forever, but I think 1995 was early in the SeaDoo Jetboat
product
and generally everyone has issues the first year or two of a new
product.
Anyway any insight would be mucho appreciated and if you have any idea
how
to get good info off the net, that would be great too (I can do my own
homework,
but I don't know where to start.)
Thanks,
Jeff
Larry
Go to www.dejanews.com and search on rec.sport.jetski and SeaDoo.
They are the same engines and pumps. From that you'll get an idea of
SeaDoo's reliability issues from the owners who grieve over them.
Before you buy one, don't forget to take out a Mercury Sport Jet 175hp
V-6 powered boat. I don't care what manufacturer made the boat. Use
it for a comparison and keep in mind Mercury has made this powerhead
since 1983, it has fully automatic computerized starting, it
self-drains (unlike the jetski engine which must be blown out to keep
water in the pipe from going back through the exhaust port into the
engine), and NAPA has parts. Ask yourself, as reliability is an issue
with you...What will last longer a 5300 RPM engine or a 6900 RPM
engine? A 6900 RPM pump or a 4000 RPM pump? (Merc has a reduction
gear exactly like an outboard uses.)
Take a tape measure with you, also. Measure from the back of the back
seat to the bow on each boat. The Merc engine sits vertically OVER
the pump, not horizontally in FRONT of the pump sucking up your
cockpit space. The worst waste of deck space imaginable is DUAL
consoles with one that does nothing. Many Sea Doo owners who ride
with me always comment on how much ROOM my 15' 6" Sea Rayder F16XR2
has. Even in the engine compartment, it's mostly ski/wakeboard and
storage!
Larry...look AND RIDE them all before buying.
On Thu, 02 Jul 1998 10:04:07 -0500, Bozo <jcr...@aud.alcatel.com>
wrote:
MMXPRESS1
you want the best jet boat check sugar sand leisure industries or im me
mmxpress1@aol. com
Curtis Wheeler
95 Speedsters had 650 cc engines. I don't recall the horsepower but
they are a very reliable power plant. They went to the 720 in 96.
It has a single pump intake under the center of the boat that Y's to the
two pumps. In 96 each pump got its own intake. The change was a
tradeoff. The slightly larger single intake creates less drag allowing
the boat to go a touch faster. The drawback to the single intake was
acceleration because the pumps would not load up evenly when you wanted
a good hole shot. The handful of extra horses make up for the slightly
increased drag of two suck holes in the bottom of the 96.
I have heard stories about cracked hulls in the early Sea-Doos. 94 thru
96 they had three models that were on the same hull design (the 96
Speedster bottom is just a little different - the first set of strakes
above the keel don't go all the way to the transom - they end just ahead
of the pump intakes.) 94s and 95s are the only ones I saw complaints
about. So if you are looking at a 95 check the hull carefully for
abuse. People drive these things like jet skis but they are very heavy
- careless wake jumping or wave hopping can really beat these things
ups.
I know that Larry has told you all the terrible things about "PWC
powered" jet boats. And he has told you to look at a Sport Jet powered
boat. However if you are looking at a used 95 Speedster you'll probably
spend far less than on a newer Sea Rayder.
Although the two cylinder engines sit ahead of the pump thay are not
incredible space hogs. Their lower profile allows for a fair amount of
cargo space in the comparment above the engine (I ferried about 120 lbs
of ice to our raft out this weekend - all in the "trunk").
The "waste of deck space" by a port side console did not appear until
the longer Speedster. In 97 the short Speedster got a rear facing port
seat. I would actually like a port console (or the, seat and might have
held out for 97 if I had known it was coming) as I usually have only one
other person with me and she gets a full on wind with nothing in front
of her. I don't carry much cargo on my fairly open deck because Sea-Doo
did not provide any way to secure it. The bow seat is worthless for a
human, unless you are at low planing speeds and on smooth water. Anyone
sitting up there in moderate to rough water will be visiting a
chiropractor when they get to shore. However the seat's grab handles in
conjuction with the bow cleats make it a great place to strap down small
items that can stand getting a bit wet.
The shorter Sea-Doo jet boats (I am talking about their 14.5 footers)
are real nice compromise between a PWC and a boat. I belong to a yacht
club that loves it when I show up at raft outs. I provide some
entertainment when people want to go ride their pull toys, as well as
providing the taxi service. I replenish supplies (I mentioned ice, but
other stuff too), I get people to and from the marinas, I take the dogs
ashore once in a while for their "business trips", and I even keep the
trash level down by making garbage runs once a day. When I go out with
my jetskiing friends I can make just over 50 mph and keep up with just
about any of them. The short Doos are wicked manueverable - I
constantly impress my cruiser friends with tight full power U-turns on
the river as well as other little "tricks". They give out a good
"whooooooaaaaa!" as soon as they feel the Gs.
I would caution you that the manueverabilty can be too good in some
conditions. Be careful in choppy water. The boat will stick the water
better than a unprepared passenger will stick to his seat. In smooth
water I can't think of manuever that could flip this boat. Turn the
wheel at full throttle - it will turn like its glued to the water. Turn
too hard and you spin to a stop (with the pumps sucking up all the air
that gets blown under the hull in the process.)
If you are looking at a used one, you should be getting a lot of boat
for your money. Small jet boats depreciate faster than the slightly
larger "traditional" boats. Don' pay over $5K for a 95 Speedster unless
it has NEVER been used.
Good luck (no matter what kind of used machine you buy).
--
Curtis
"Fast Forward"
zigzag
Curtis's description is very accurate. I owned a 95 Speedster, but
traded it in for the 96 model because of the "blowout" problem created
by a single intake. The 96 is a very different boat, particularly in
terms of it's towing, out of the hole ability. I have towed 3 skiers (2
on two ski's / 1 on slalom) at the same time with the 96. The 95 had a
hard time pulling one slalom skier up.
I would really suggest you look for a 96 or new Speedster. They are
absolutely solid boats. I have live on the water and have probably put
10 hours a week on the boat, running like a madman. Only problem I ever
had was a blown out blower fuse, which was probably my fault for
forgetting to turn the switch off.
Rotax engine is the simplest design going. My neigbor has the same boat
and he hasn't had any problems with his Speedster either. '97 is
equally good boat, but I can't comment on '98.
Good luck with whichever you decide to go with.....
Zigzag (the Speedster)
Curtis Wheeler
I guess I could list some of the things I don't like about my 96
Speedster.
As I mentioned in a previous post, Sea-Doo did not provide anything for
fastening down cargo to the deck. The deck is pretty useless for
anything but looking at while underway. I am not talking about
transporting kitchen appliances, but I like the ice chest to stay put.
This year I have finally decided to do something, found the hardware I
want to install, and the appropriate places to mount it so I can keep my
cargo in one spot.
My dealer never did come up with the fix for the inaccurate fuel gauge.
I just gave up on getting that fixed. I am to the point now where I
don't even call it inaccurate. I know that it always read 1/4 lower
than what is actually in the tank. Even topped of to where fuel spews
from the vent, the gauge reads 3/4.
It needs a little port side ballast. When out solo, it rides heeled
quite a bit to starboard. Not really a problem at higher speeds as the
boats levels itself out reasonably. But at idle the port thru-hull
exhaust pipe is way above the waterline which makes it loud (it still
meet the specs - *I* just wish it weren't so noisy). When I am by
myself I usually sit in the center seat in no wake areas. I haven't
figured out how or where to put ballast in this thing. Any ideas out
there?
Storage - The 96 and earlier Speedster did not get all the storage
places that you found on Challenger of the same year. Not a big deal
but Sea-Doo really gaffed on the "trunk" lid. The Challengers came with
a small compartment in the trunk lid itself that was there for stowing a
tow rope. That compartment space is still in the lid of the Speedsters
and Sportster but they didn't put the damned door on it. It's only a
couple of inches deep and doesn't go all the way across the lid - but
when I get that last item I want to cram in that trunk and the lid won't
shut because of it, it makes me want to learn french swear words.
Electrical noise is bad when using radios. I have not gone in to see
where the trouble is, but you can hear the ignition on VHF and UHF two
ways...and analog cell phones. I use only handheld gear in the boat,
but want to address that problem before I install a VHF. This is not a
problem for most users as it's not really practical to use a radio when
underway. My cellphone is digital so I didn't notice that problem until
recently when I went into an area that had analog only coverage.
The only thing that I really consider a defect is the gas gauge. The
other things are just things I wish the boat had or were considered when
they designed it. The boat itself has been 100% reliable. The engines
always start and run flawlessly. The boat itself has shown no signs of
"falling apart" anywhere. Other than replacing a prop that got dinged
by a rock or something, and replacing the bulb in my all-around white
stern light, I have not had to fix anything on the boat. I go through
once in a while and make sure the bolts are tight and everything that
needs a bit of lube gets a bit of lube. Its going into its third season
and it still feels like it did when it was brand new.
--
Curtis
"Fast Forward"
Curtis Wheeler
Larry wrote:
>
> The little Igloo cooler they give you with the boat bungees into a
> corner of the engine/storage compartment. Thanks, SeaRay, but it's
> TOO SMALL to take anything with you over about 3 drinks. I've found a
> larger cooler that fits fine back there and changed to a better
> "mount" to hold it still. Now, everybody can have drinks, not just
> the driver..(c;
I was not really concerned about having refreshments handy while under
way as I usually have those in the trunk in my collapsable cooler.
On longer outings (camping trips, etc) I carry a 54 gallon chest that I
can keep forward with straps to the bow seat grab handles. But even if
the chest weighs 100 lbs, it doesn't take much vertical activity to get
that chest airborne and slamming down on the floor. I have some
stainless hardware in mind for anchoring such cargo TO the floor but I
want to make sure I can back up the attachments properly - I wouldn't
want to cinch my straps up and rip them out of the floor.
> I'm contemplating adding an electric-pump/water tank
> to port (ballast for riding alone mentioned below). They have a nice
> push-button switch and rotating faucet I'm going to mount so it hangs
> overboard to starboard. You'll be able to swing it inboard to fill
> your glass and overboard to wash your hands. A sink for it will be
> unnecessary...it's just water.
> >
> >My dealer never did come up with the fix for the inaccurate fuel gauge.
> >I just gave up on getting that fixed. I am to the point now where I
> >don't even call it inaccurate. I know that it always read 1/4 lower
> >than what is actually in the tank. Even topped of to where fuel spews
> >from the vent, the gauge reads 3/4.
>
> Sea Rayder guages read Full at full, 1/2 when you have 2/3 tank
> remaining, and E when you still have about 9.5 gallons left in the
> tank. You'll NEVER run out if you follow the guage! Sure glad I can
> see the level of the gas by looking at the back of the tank in the
> engine compartment. It used to spew gas up the tank vent when pumping
> gas because some idiot at the tank company decided the vent outlet
> should be right NEXT to the splashing gas coming into it. I solved
> the problem with a neat little device West Marine has that goes in the
> vent hose. It's a ball that floats and cuts off the vent when it
> starts backing up and has a little "bottle" around the floating ball
> to catch the spitting. UNFORTUNATELY, if you fill too fast, the gas
> will blast back at you as the ball seals the vent. The trick is to
> LISTEN to the filling gas hole. You can hear it when it starts to
> "burble". Slow the filling down and wait for the nozzle to click off
> and you're full...all the way. Knowing the gas guage leaves 9 gallons
> on E is kinda comforting. But, I wish it were more accurate.
I have heard of those vent blocks. Someone had mentioned them a while
back but there were concerns about safety. Is it a CG approved device.
I am taking a trip to WM at lunch tomorrow and will take a look at it.
I can usually keep the gas from coming through the vent if I run the
pump at a low setting - but even then if the boat is not sitting just
right it still pukes a little. This is particularly distressing when
the boat is in the water and why I don't try to fill it up completely
when buying gas at a marina. Lots of boats have this problem (belching
gas out the vent when filling the tank) and I am surprised that the EPA
has not mandated manufacturers to install a fix.
> >It needs a little port side ballast. When out solo, it rides heeled
> >quite a bit to starboard. Not really a problem at higher speeds as the
> >boats levels itself out reasonably. But at idle the port thru-hull
> >exhaust pipe is way above the waterline which makes it loud (it still
> >meet the specs - *I* just wish it weren't so noisy). When I am by
> >myself I usually sit in the center seat in no wake areas. I haven't
> >figured out how or where to put ballast in this thing. Any ideas out
> >there?
>
> The F16 Rayder heels a little at idle but the reverse chine "sponsons"
> down both sides won't let it go as far as the Speedster. The exhaust
> comes out on either side of the nozzle right on top of the rideplate.
> The Rayder, with just one in it even, rides with the entire pump
> submerged to the bottom of the swim platform at no-wake speeds so the
> exhaust is buried over 15", easy. It's VERY quiet idling around at
> 2000 RPM or less. It starts to heave up the bow around 2300 RPM
> towards going to plane. Riding between 2500 and 3200 RPM is
> impossible as the bow is very high lifted and you can't see the
> "floating mines" the crabbers drop wherever they damned well please
> with that ROPE ATTACHED to the toilet floats to get in the
> pump...yecch!
The Doos probably would have been better of with the smoke coming out
the pump or close by.
> I wanna ask you about a power-off descent...
> I thought the Rayder hull was "crooked" somehow when I first got it.
> If I'm riding alone, and drop power to idle while on the plane, the
> boat hangs and IMMEDIATE turn to PORT! I figured something was wrong
> until I got experimenting with ME! Somewhere in my mind, I had the
> idea that the boat should turn towards the side WITH THE MOST DRAG IN
> THE WATER...the side I was on. Not true. It turns the opposite
> way...to PORT. I'm still baffled as to why. If I have a passenger
> sitting in the port seat, aft, it will drop off plane as straight as
> if it had a rudder. If I sit, solo, in the middle seat and kill the
> power, it drops off plane dead ahead...perfectly. If I stand up with
> my legs apart, I can actually STEER it by simply shifting my weight to
> port to turn right, and to starboard to turn left. And it will turn
> pretty hard that way! Sit centered, it's fine. The only way to steer
> it coming down quickly off the plane is to keep the tach at 2000 RPM
> and give it 45 degrees to starboard wheel...then it stops straight.
> Does the Speedster, Challenger and Exciter perform similarly??
I have never paid attention to the circustances, but yes, the Speedster
will sometimes come down and not remain true. It was a little
un-nerving the first couple of times it happened. Small blasts of low
power as required are now just a reflex to keep it going where I want it
to go during its decent. But now you have made me curious and I will
probably start making some observations
> >Storage - The 96 and earlier Speedster did not get all the storage
> >places that you found on Challenger of the same year. Not a big deal
> >but Sea-Doo really gaffed on the "trunk" lid. The Challengers came with
> >a small compartment in the trunk lid itself that was there for stowing a
> >tow rope. That compartment space is still in the lid of the Speedsters
> >and Sportster but they didn't put the damned door on it. It's only a
> >couple of inches deep and doesn't go all the way across the lid - but
> >when I get that last item I want to cram in that trunk and the lid won't
> >shut because of it, it makes me want to learn french swear words.
>
> Hmm...lessee....3'long cooler, Danforth anchor with 100' line on
> spool, kneeboard in rack, manual bilge pump in case the gas lines come
> off again, 3 nice zipup PFDs, 3 cheap orange PFDs, long paddle with
> boathook on the end, SeaRay sidepocket full of
> flags/flares/maps/cellphone/6 plugs/wrench/socket/handle to remove
> DAMNED 6 coils in the way getting TO the plugs/suntan oil, towels,
> wiperags and misc small crap. That's what was in my "trunk" I had to
> hoe all out so the mechanic could sit IN it to get to the engine for
> maintenance. 2 storage compartments under the front seats (hinged).
> What I CAN'T figure out is WHY there is no DOOR into the BILGE in
> FRONT of the gas tank! There's a void in there that's 7' long and 2'
> DEEP! Sure would love to have access to that void to CLEAN it and use
> it to store non-water-destroying junk like fenders/anchors/ropes/etc.
> When it's "old", I might be tempted to have a boat shop MAKE a door
> into the deck. Saw the deck, add a coaming, hinges under it and a
> latch. I'd have another 7X2X4 feet of storage compartment! I'd
> probably pack some SANDBAGS in the front of it to HOLD THE BOW DOWN.
I keep the boat's cargo in the ski locker. That is where my anchor,
fenders, boat hook, oar, tow line, dock lines, type IV, etc. are at
home. However I guess I am going to be inconvienced when that ice chest
is straped down. The trunk and console compartment are for MY stuff.
It does sound like you have a bigger trunk than me.
> >
> >Electrical noise is bad when using radios. I have not gone in to see
> >where the trouble is, but you can hear the ignition on VHF and UHF two
> >ways...and analog cell phones. I use only handheld gear in the boat,
> >but want to address that problem before I install a VHF. This is not a
> >problem for most users as it's not really practical to use a radio when
> >underway. My cellphone is digital so I didn't notice that problem until
> >recently when I went into an area that had analog only coverage.
>
> Ahhh...got your wallet handy? I can help you here! The V-6 came with
> STRAIGHT PLUGS, BU8H surface gaps. Pep boys was the cheapest place,
> at $11.30 EACH, for BUZ8H RESISTOR plugs. OUch! I bit the bullet and
> bought 6. Radio noise, sonar noise, AM/FM noise...even an AM pocket
> radio....GONE! My VHF antenna is mounted to the starboard front
> grabhandle on the gunwale. It's as far from the engine as I can get
> it. It's a base coil, stainless whip 1/2 wave from Shakespeare. The
> whip has a quick disconnect built into it so I can get the cover on it
> easily. The antenna works GREAT! I can talk to CG group Savannah 100
> miles away! They have a tall antenna. The noise will cause your
> digital cellphone to crap out prematurely, but you won't hear any
> noise...it'll just go dead and beep at you. Resistor RF interference
> plugs are the answer. I thought all Doos already had them!
Is that antenna a 5241-R? Same one I have but have not installed. How
is it holding up to salt water?
The Rotax uses BR8ES plugs (extended reach - which does not seem common
to other PWC engines). Sea-Doo claims that non-resistor plug may cause
computer problems. But the computer must be deaf cuz those engines are
noisy.
> >The only thing that I really consider a defect is the gas gauge. The
> >other things are just things I wish the boat had or were considered when
> >they designed it. The boat itself has been 100% reliable. The engines
> >always start and run flawlessly. The boat itself has shown no signs of
> >"falling apart" anywhere. Other than replacing a prop that got dinged
> >by a rock or something, and replacing the bulb in my all-around white
> >stern light, I have not had to fix anything on the boat. I go through
> >once in a while and make sure the bolts are tight and everything that
> >needs a bit of lube gets a bit of lube. Its going into its third season
> >and it still feels like it did when it was brand new.
> >
> I'm curious. Does water back up through the deck drain when you have
> 3 aboard on your Speedster? I heard a scream at a boat landing and a
> lady in nice shoes had gotten into her son's Speedster and got her
> feet wet. All 3 of them were sitting across the back, driving the
> drain under the level of the water outside the boat. She thought they
> were SINKING...ha! Of course, it drains as soon as you take off.
> Mine has only backed up once when we were all leaning over to
> starboard to watch a sweet little thing in a THONG on the beach...
Yes, the water comes in through the scupper below my feet when the boat
isn't moving. That thing is right at the water line. Its not much but
I have to warn people about it so they aren't surpised. I attribute
that trait to the boats PWC lineage. I haven't had anyone panic and
claim the boat was sinking <g>.
> All bolts on the Rayder come loose, often! The trunk lid has 8 bolt
> holes. Too bad it was decided to use 4 bolts, with nuts and
> lockwashers and FOUR SHEET METAL SCREWS INTO THE PLASTIC. Stupid,
> stupid, stupid. The nuts came off 2 bolts into the bilge. I removed
> all that crap, the washers were rusting anyways. Now I have EIGHT
> (count 'em Sea Ray!) stainless bolts with washers and NYLOCK NUTS!
> Problem solved. It's a little aggrevation, but it's mine. Seats
> hinges up forward came loose, latches fell off. Now have cabinet
> magnet latches...6 on front seat, 4 on side seat...holding the cover
> down as we airborne off the wakes!
Had a bolt work out of the trunk latch. Found it in the trunk. "What
the hell does this go to?" Looked up on the hatch latch...."Oh" And a
couple of those attachments that hold the wire harnesses have broke
loose but the rest seem to be secure.
> >Curtis
> >
> >"Fast Forward"
>
> Thanks for the comparison, Curtis. Between you and I we'll patent our
> ideas and resell them to the boat companies. Maybe they'll hire us as
> QUALITY ASSURANCE CONSULTANTS. They both sure need them....(c;
>
> Larry...
The all new 1999 Doo-Rayder?
--
Curtis
Larry
>I guess I could list some of the things I don't like about my 96
>Speedster.
And I'd like to compare to the Sea Rayder's deficiencies...very
similar!
>
>As I mentioned in a previous post, Sea-Doo did not provide anything for
>fastening down cargo to the deck. The deck is pretty useless for
>anything but looking at while underway. I am not talking about
>transporting kitchen appliances, but I like the ice chest to stay put.
>This year I have finally decided to do something, found the hardware I
>want to install, and the appropriate places to mount it so I can keep my
>cargo in one spot.
The little Igloo cooler they give you with the boat bungees into a
corner of the engine/storage compartment. Thanks, SeaRay, but it's
TOO SMALL to take anything with you over about 3 drinks. I've found a
larger cooler that fits fine back there and changed to a better
"mount" to hold it still. Now, everybody can have drinks, not just
the driver..(c; I'm contemplating adding an electric-pump/water tank
>It needs a little port side ballast. When out solo, it rides heeled
>quite a bit to starboard. Not really a problem at higher speeds as the
>boats levels itself out reasonably. But at idle the port thru-hull
>exhaust pipe is way above the waterline which makes it loud (it still
>meet the specs - *I* just wish it weren't so noisy). When I am by
>myself I usually sit in the center seat in no wake areas. I haven't
>figured out how or where to put ballast in this thing. Any ideas out
>there?
The F16 Rayder heels a little at idle but the reverse chine "sponsons"
down both sides won't let it go as far as the Speedster. The exhaust
comes out on either side of the nozzle right on top of the rideplate.
The Rayder, with just one in it even, rides with the entire pump
submerged to the bottom of the swim platform at no-wake speeds so the
exhaust is buried over 15", easy. It's VERY quiet idling around at
2000 RPM or less. It starts to heave up the bow around 2300 RPM
towards going to plane. Riding between 2500 and 3200 RPM is
impossible as the bow is very high lifted and you can't see the
"floating mines" the crabbers drop wherever they damned well please
with that ROPE ATTACHED to the toilet floats to get in the
pump...yecch!
I wanna ask you about a power-off descent...
I thought the Rayder hull was "crooked" somehow when I first got it.
If I'm riding alone, and drop power to idle while on the plane, the
boat hangs and IMMEDIATE turn to PORT! I figured something was wrong
until I got experimenting with ME! Somewhere in my mind, I had the
idea that the boat should turn towards the side WITH THE MOST DRAG IN
THE WATER...the side I was on. Not true. It turns the opposite
way...to PORT. I'm still baffled as to why. If I have a passenger
sitting in the port seat, aft, it will drop off plane as straight as
if it had a rudder. If I sit, solo, in the middle seat and kill the
power, it drops off plane dead ahead...perfectly. If I stand up with
my legs apart, I can actually STEER it by simply shifting my weight to
port to turn right, and to starboard to turn left. And it will turn
pretty hard that way! Sit centered, it's fine. The only way to steer
it coming down quickly off the plane is to keep the tach at 2000 RPM
and give it 45 degrees to starboard wheel...then it stops straight.
Does the Speedster, Challenger and Exciter perform similarly??
>
>Electrical noise is bad when using radios. I have not gone in to see
>where the trouble is, but you can hear the ignition on VHF and UHF two
>ways...and analog cell phones. I use only handheld gear in the boat,
>but want to address that problem before I install a VHF. This is not a
>problem for most users as it's not really practical to use a radio when
>underway. My cellphone is digital so I didn't notice that problem until
>recently when I went into an area that had analog only coverage.
Ahhh...got your wallet handy? I can help you here! The V-6 came with
STRAIGHT PLUGS, BU8H surface gaps. Pep boys was the cheapest place,
at $11.30 EACH, for BUZ8H RESISTOR plugs. OUch! I bit the bullet and
bought 6. Radio noise, sonar noise, AM/FM noise...even an AM pocket
radio....GONE! My VHF antenna is mounted to the starboard front
grabhandle on the gunwale. It's as far from the engine as I can get
it. It's a base coil, stainless whip 1/2 wave from Shakespeare. The
whip has a quick disconnect built into it so I can get the cover on it
easily. The antenna works GREAT! I can talk to CG group Savannah 100
miles away! They have a tall antenna. The noise will cause your
digital cellphone to crap out prematurely, but you won't hear any
noise...it'll just go dead and beep at you. Resistor RF interference
plugs are the answer. I thought all Doos already had them!
>
>The only thing that I really consider a defect is the gas gauge. The
>other things are just things I wish the boat had or were considered when
>they designed it. The boat itself has been 100% reliable. The engines
>always start and run flawlessly. The boat itself has shown no signs of
>"falling apart" anywhere. Other than replacing a prop that got dinged
>by a rock or something, and replacing the bulb in my all-around white
>stern light, I have not had to fix anything on the boat. I go through
>once in a while and make sure the bolts are tight and everything that
>needs a bit of lube gets a bit of lube. Its going into its third season
>and it still feels like it did when it was brand new.
>
I'm curious. Does water back up through the deck drain when you have
3 aboard on your Speedster? I heard a scream at a boat landing and a
lady in nice shoes had gotten into her son's Speedster and got her
feet wet. All 3 of them were sitting across the back, driving the
drain under the level of the water outside the boat. She thought they
were SINKING...ha! Of course, it drains as soon as you take off.
Mine has only backed up once when we were all leaning over to
starboard to watch a sweet little thing in a THONG on the beach...
All bolts on the Rayder come loose, often! The trunk lid has 8 bolt
holes. Too bad it was decided to use 4 bolts, with nuts and
lockwashers and FOUR SHEET METAL SCREWS INTO THE PLASTIC. Stupid,
stupid, stupid. The nuts came off 2 bolts into the bilge. I removed
all that crap, the washers were rusting anyways. Now I have EIGHT
(count 'em Sea Ray!) stainless bolts with washers and NYLOCK NUTS!
Problem solved. It's a little aggrevation, but it's mine. Seats
hinges up forward came loose, latches fell off. Now have cabinet
magnet latches...6 on front seat, 4 on side seat...holding the cover
down as we airborne off the wakes!
>
>--
Larry
<cwhe...@ccnet.com> wrote:
>
>I have heard of those vent blocks. Someone had mentioned them a while
>back but there were concerns about safety. Is it a CG approved device.
>I am taking a trip to WM at lunch tomorrow and will take a look at it.
>I can usually keep the gas from coming through the vent if I run the
>pump at a low setting - but even then if the boat is not sitting just
>right it still pukes a little. This is particularly distressing when
>the boat is in the water and why I don't try to fill it up completely
>when buying gas at a marina. Lots of boats have this problem (belching
>gas out the vent when filling the tank) and I am surprised that the EPA
>has not mandated manufacturers to install a fix.
Yes, it's fully CG certified because it will keep gas out of the
water. Mine used to spit little spurts when the tank approached full.
The only problem with it is if it's closed, the tank full, the main
will spit back now if you try to fill it too fast. I wish Sea Ray had
used a standard gas fill fitting, instead of that one on the outside
of the gunwale. It makes it hard to get the hose in, being vertical,
when close to the gas dock if I have a long trip and need to fill on
the water. CG is the one to make them fix all this....if they did
their jobs.
>> I wanna ask you about a power-off descent...
>
>> I thought the Rayder hull was "crooked" somehow when I first got it.
>> If I'm riding alone, and drop power to idle while on the plane, the
>> boat hangs and IMMEDIATE turn to PORT! I figured something was wrong
>> until I got experimenting with ME! Somewhere in my mind, I had the
>> idea that the boat should turn towards the side WITH THE MOST DRAG IN
>> THE WATER...the side I was on. Not true. It turns the opposite
>> way...to PORT. I'm still baffled as to why. If I have a passenger
>> sitting in the port seat, aft, it will drop off plane as straight as
>> if it had a rudder. If I sit, solo, in the middle seat and kill the
>> power, it drops off plane dead ahead...perfectly. If I stand up with
>> my legs apart, I can actually STEER it by simply shifting my weight to
>> port to turn right, and to starboard to turn left. And it will turn
>> pretty hard that way! Sit centered, it's fine. The only way to steer
>> it coming down quickly off the plane is to keep the tach at 2000 RPM
>> and give it 45 degrees to starboard wheel...then it stops straight.
>> Does the Speedster, Challenger and Exciter perform similarly??
>
>I have never paid attention to the circustances, but yes, the Speedster
>will sometimes come down and not remain true. It was a little
>un-nerving the first couple of times it happened. Small blasts of low
>power as required are now just a reflex to keep it going where I want it
>to go during its decent. But now you have made me curious and I will
>probably start making some observations
>
Try leaving a little "steerage power" on it coming off the plane so
you'll have the force to make it run true with you in the far
starboard seat. The magic number on the Rayder is 1800-2000 RPM. I'd
figure the Doo around 2500 RPM would be about right. I wouldn't
operate the boat from the center seat. That emergency throttle is
just too far away from your hand over there.
>
>Is that antenna a 5241-R? Same one I have but have not installed. How
>is it holding up to salt water?
I think that's it. there's a 1/4 turn twist-off fitting on the bottom
of the whip. Salt hasn't bothered it at all....yet. It gets a pretty
good spraying underway in rough.
>
>The Rotax uses BR8ES plugs (extended reach - which does not seem common
>to other PWC engines). Sea-Doo claims that non-resistor plug may cause
>computer problems. But the computer must be deaf cuz those engines are
>noisy.
>
Hmm....The R is for resistor. That plug should be very quiet. As you
already have resistor plugs, I'd run the engines on a hose after dark,
in the dark, and look around for a blue arc outside the box. You may
have an ignition leak causing the noise. I know Doos have a history
of the plug cap, itself, arcing from the wire to the plug. That arc
would transmit like hell causing lots of radio noise. Maybe the caps
will show a little blue sparking. Merc just used straight plugs. The
price of NGK resistor plugs is probably the reason. I'm not going to
pay NGK's price again. I'll go to the QL77YC's my new Merc mechanic
says works fine at $4/pop.
>> I'm curious. Does water back up through the deck drain when you have
>> 3 aboard on your Speedster? I heard a scream at a boat landing and a
>> lady in nice shoes had gotten into her son's Speedster and got her
>> feet wet. All 3 of them were sitting across the back, driving the
>> drain under the level of the water outside the boat. She thought they
>> were SINKING...ha! Of course, it drains as soon as you take off.
>> Mine has only backed up once when we were all leaning over to
>> starboard to watch a sweet little thing in a THONG on the beach...
>
>Yes, the water comes in through the scupper below my feet when the boat
>isn't moving. That thing is right at the water line. Its not much but
>I have to warn people about it so they aren't surpised. I attribute
>that trait to the boats PWC lineage. I haven't had anyone panic and
>claim the boat was sinking <g>.
I wonder if a floating-ball one-way valve isn't in order under that
deck drain. Wonder if Perko or one of the marine manufacturers
doesn't make a drain fitting with the one-way valve already built into
it??? The ball would float up and seal the drain from the reverse
flow, falling when the water IN the boat overcome the water OUT of the
boat. That would stop the problem. SeaDoo needs to fix that. Boat
riders expect to be a lot dryer than PWC riders who think they are
SUPPOSED to have wet feet. GP1200 owners, of course, ALWAYS have wet
feet from the built-in footbaths in the sunken wells...idiots.
>
>
>Had a bolt work out of the trunk latch. Found it in the trunk. "What
>the hell does this go to?" Looked up on the hatch latch...."Oh" And a
>couple of those attachments that hold the wire harnesses have broke
>loose but the rest seem to be secure.
>
ABYC standards won't let Sea Ray use tiewrap stickies to hold up
wiring. All the wires go through nylon clamps that are screwed to the
fiberglass. I replaced all the gas hose clamps, after the gasline
fell off and flooded it. The clamps were the size for a head drain,
about 8 sizes too big, and allowed the gas line to slide down into the
bilge flooding it by siphon. There's an anti siphon gadget in the gas
tank, but there was so much suction from the vertical distance, I
guess it overcame the spring in the anti-siphon's ball valve.
>
>
>The all new 1999 Doo-Rayder?
>
>--
>Curtis
Would it have TWO of the new Merc 225 hp Sport Jets? That's gonna be
ONE helluva engine. I've considered, and am still dreaming about,
selling this powerhead and installing the 2.5L high-performance 260hp
powerhead. It's the same 2.5L block, but instead of being the VERY
mildly ported 175hp I have now, it has more jetski-like radical
porting, EFI throttle body fuel injection with another 85 horses at
7200 RPM. That would turn my (now 4000 rpm) impeller at 6000 rpm. I
wouldn't even need a change in prop. The prop in mine looks like a
Skat Swirl. 7.25", 18.5-38.5 pitch with large hub. No hint of
cavitation from stock still at WOT. The intake grate looks like the
drain in a shopping center parking lot. It's huge! It's also
recessed from the bottom of the hull and "tilted" to the bow to "catch
the wave". The whole intake is all part of the pump, not the hull, so
there's no sealing problems and air getting into ride shoes, pump
seals.
Well, we'll work on the DooRayder for '99. Will it have 2 consoles or
an open deck. I like the open floor space. I DO want a WINDSHIELD!
There's gotta be a way to keep that 60mph wind out of our faces. My
skin is burned...(c;
Larry
Carlos R. Robert
| [...] The bow seat is worthless for a
| human, unless you are at low planing speeds and on smooth water. Anyone
| sitting up there in moderate to rough water will be visiting a
| chiropractor when they get to shore. However the seat's grab handles in
| conjuction with the bow cleats make it a great place to strap down small
| items that can stand getting a bit wet.
Wacht out for waves! These boats are not self bailing and having
someone on the bow seat can push the boat into incoming waves. The boat
will not sink to the bottom but the engine will be soaked. The boat's
bilge pump will not be able to handle it, bring additional bailing
equipment, extra spark plugs and lots of WD-40.
Charles Ledbetter
leads out of the transom. The transom fitting has a "ping pong" ball in it
that keeps water from coming in the bailer pipe.
Charles
Carlos R. Robert wrote in message <6oolhf$l9b$2...@ocean.cup.hp.com>...
Carlos R. Robert
: Wrong. There is a bailer in the back right-hand corner of the cockpit that
: leads out of the transom. The transom fitting has a "ping pong" ball in it
: that keeps water from coming in the bailer pipe.
Oh well, I guess it was not very effective on the boat I helped bail out
last May. Bottom line is avoid sitting anyone on the bow seat with
waves ahead. This one went down in a couple of 2~4 ft. waves as it was
heading out of the beach. Engine sucked so much water that they spent
two hours drying it out. However, next Sunday, boat and owner were back
on the water, this time with a hand pump and a bucket.
Carlos.
Curtis Wheeler
>
> Curtis Wheeler (cwhe...@ccnet.com) wrote:
>
> | [...] The bow seat is worthless for a
> | human, unless you are at low planing speeds and on smooth water. Anyone
> | sitting up there in moderate to rough water will be visiting a
> | chiropractor when they get to shore. However the seat's grab handles in
> | conjuction with the bow cleats make it a great place to strap down small
> | items that can stand getting a bit wet.
>
> Wacht out for waves! These boats are not self bailing and having
> someone on the bow seat can push the boat into incoming waves. The boat
> will not sink to the bottom but the engine will be soaked. The boat's
> bilge pump will not be able to handle it, bring additional bailing
> equipment, extra spark plugs and lots of WD-40.
They are equiped with drains and drain pretty fast when under way. It
would take an enormaous amount of water over the bow (relatively
speaking) to flood the engine compartments.
I would question the wisdom of having the boat out on the water at all
in conditions conducive to swamping the boat that bad - someone in the
boaw seat, or not.
--
Curtis
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