need help with winterizing diesel
CHERYLDC
I've had marina winterize my diesel (yanmar 10hp 1cyl) for last 4 years.
Am going to do it myself this year in order to save a buck as well as
learn to handle my own serviceing this engine. Will this be as simple as:
1. disconnect hose from intake thru-hull
2. immerse this hose in environmentally safe anti-freeze
3. start engine
4. engine will pull liquid in through the system of
engine and mufflers
and out the back of the boat.
Are there any little tricks or ideas to make this happen more efficiently?
The boat will be sitting on its cradle when this process happens.
Any help from those who have experience with this?
Thanks,
Larry C.
Bryon Kass
I assume the engine is a 1GM10 Yanmar. I have one in a launch (11') and
this is how it works. It is a seawater engine so I first add some diesel
stabilizer to the full tank and run the engine for a while with tap water
for a fresh water flush then drain the block and replace the zinc anode.
Fuel filters are changed as well.The lube oil should be changed with a new
filter.
After that I add the antifreeze sucking from a bucket into the seawater
system while running the engine. When it is coming out the exhaust
shut it down and replace the hose on the seacock. The exhaust if equipped
with a water lock should be drained. The engine can be sprayed with
an oil like LPS 2 for rust prevention. This should be sufficient for
a proper winterization of that engine. Oh, remove the batteries and
store them in a area above freezing.
Bryon Kass
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://www.ici.net/customers/cusdn
Kenneth Cooperstein
If you don't make sure that your thermostat is wide open when you suck
in the antifreeze, the block will remain bathed in fresh (or sea)
water, which will likely freeze and crack your block. Therefore, you
should thoroughly flush the engine with tap water until it has been at
operating temperature for a few minutes (or above by constricting the
inlet hose with a clamp), then run the 50-50 thru it. After that you
should open the draincocks and clean them with a wire (they always
clog in salt water). If the block won't drain because the drain is
too clogged ,then you will have to rely on the antifreeze flush
alone--so make sure you run at least 2 gallons of 50-50 thru a really
hot engine (say 20 degrees above normal operating temp).
Ken Cooperstein
1329C1000-Garry_Heon(MT4084)NOBIN
In article <53toq0$9...@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
This is what I had done in the past. This year I ran the engines to
temp (although I really didn't need to since I don't have t-stats) then
drained the block. I followed by running the antifreeze through the
engines. I figure I got all (most of) the water out by first draining the
block then by adding the anti freeze I'm sure that any water that may have
remained will not freeze. Also by leaving the antifreeze in the block
I'm getting the corrosion protection found in most modern anitfreezes.
I used notoxic automotive type anti freeze. Does this make sense?
Garry Heon
First Stepp
ga...@holly.mt.lucent.com
My Opinions....Lucent's Network.
Dwight Reese
Don't forget to clean the raw water strainer.
Also the raw water impeller should be changed periodically.
Many recommend removing the impeller every year so that it
does not bind to the housing and at a minimum replacing every 2
years. Very often you see impeller housings that do not appear to
have seen a tool anywhere near them...ever.