Is problem with O-Ring Seal or Valve Body
JTC
up position. Although annoying I lived with it for about a year. Last week
the problem got worse. Now the motor will not tilt up unless I assist it by
lifting the lower unit while using the trim button to tilt the motor up. I
have examined the o-ring in the tilt cylinder and it looks fine. I bought a
replacement O-Ring anyway but it is the wrong size so I have to get another
one. However, I cant help but suspect the valve body on the pump. Does
anyone know what symptoms would indicate a problem with the valve body
verses the O-Rings in the tilt cylinder? And for those who have replaced
the O-Rings before, do they usually look damaged and mangled or what?
Any advise is greatly appreciated.
JeffC
Rural Knight
"JTC" <luas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vir37qd...@corp.supernews.com...
The loss of pressure could be caused by any number of things,
but the piston/cylinder seal is probably the most likely cause of the
problem. Other causes could be fluid reserve, value body,
pump impeller, etc.
There isn't any real way to tell if an O ring is bad, but a reasonable
test is how hard it was to get the piston out of the cylinder. If it
produced a reasonable vacuum when it came out, then it most
likely was good. The cylinder seal would show signs of leaking.
Other than that, it is an internal leak in the pump (more O rings),
fluid level or a combination of same.
I would suspect internal leak though because you didn't say
anything about oil leaks.
Later,
Tom
JTC
cylinder. If that doesn't work I'm going to take apart the pump to see what
can be replace in it.
Thanks for responding.
"Rural Knight" <tomf12...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:8khXa.6013$WM4....@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
JTC
have to move on to the pump.
"JTC" <luas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:viu4m7f...@corp.supernews.com...
JTC
sludge. Didn't find any O'Rings in the valve body but I wasn't able too
take it completely apart. I did take it apart far enough to check the bb's
and springs and gear inside. everything looked ok except for the sludge
that I removed. I think maybe on of the springs was not in it correct place
though. After I cleaned up everything and put it back together I didn't
have enough trim fluid to refill the pump reservoir. I was only able to put
a little bit of fluid in. I attempted to tilt the motor and it did go up
farther than it has been going but only about 4 inches. Then pump was
catching air since the fluid was low. Maybe I got it fixed. ??? The only
other thing I am willing to change myself will be the o-ring in the trim
cylinder. I don't know if losing pressure in the trim cylinder will effect
the tilt cylinder and vice versa. I'll find out later today when I work on
it some more I guess.
JeffC
"JTC" <luas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vj1mtkc...@corp.supernews.com...
JTC
problem. The motor will tilt down until it reaches the trim cylinder piston
and stops. The trim goes down reeeaaaalllllyy slow. I don't understand
why. I am wondering if there were supposed to be three springs in the valve
body instead of only two,,, or maybe I placed the spring over the wrong ball
bearing. If anyone knows what I did wrong I would sure appreciate some
advise. I have read that the main things that go wrong the Force trim units
are the o-rings in the trim and tilt cylinders and the "Point Check Valve"
in the valve body. The point check valve is very difficult to get to and
I'd prefer not to screw with it as long as the motor will tilt even if it
bleeds down from the up position. I don't know how long the pump motor will
list letting it wind the trim cylinder down taking about 2 minutes.
Well, if anyone has any advise I'd be very grateful.
JeffC
"JTC" <luas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vj4bckg...@corp.supernews.com...
noah
Jeff- is it possible that the "down" problem is in the pivot points
on the motor (lacking grease), or that the trim piston is "dry" or a
little corroded? The problem may not be in the pump.
Make sure all zirc's are greased, and check out the trim piston. A
little hydraulic fluid on a rag will help lubricate it, or you can use
a little light teflon grease. Even minor corrosion can cause it to
"hang".
noah
Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats
JTC
"noah" <OMIT-rec....@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:8ma8jv89tfip1r77e...@4ax.com...
Thanks for the response noah. I will lubricate the pivot joint on the motor
as you suggest. However, I am sure that the problem is hydraulic. I
replaced the seals on the Point Check Valves in the valve body today. This
was supposed to stop leak down of the motor from the tilted up position.
When I first put the pump back on the motor it tilted up and down twice as I
was cycling the air out of the system then the motor quit tilting down.
(before it only the trim would not go down) now the trim wont go down
either, and the motor is still leaking down only allot slower now. I don't
know what to do at this point. Guess I'll be trying to find a rebuilt one
somewhere. I have seen a few places online to purchase a rebuilt one with
trade in of the old. approx $150 to $175 to do this if you can find
somebody who has one in stock.
JTC
The location of one bearing in particular is very important to making the
motor trim down after you rebuilt the valve body. (if you only change the
seals in the check valves in the bottom of the valve assembly you are ok) If
you take apart the top of the valve body you'll need this info.
The bearing that controls the flow of fluid to tilt the motor down does not
rest in the valve body (where you will find it after taking off the gear
cover). In order to reinstall all the bearings and springs correctly you
have to put it together upside down.
First turn the gear cover upside down and drop all springs in their
appropriate places. Then drop all BB's in appropriate places. The large BB
should be resting on the large spring and a small BB should be resting on
the small spring.
Lower the valve body on to the gear cover and squeeze tight and at the same
time screw in one of the bolts to hold it together. Once you get one bolt in
you can flip it right side up and install the rest of the bolts. (3 Hex & 2
Regular bolts)
I drew some diagrams for this;
Looking at valve body:
http://www.cox-internet.com/072070/Gear-bearing-springassembly.JPG
Looking at gear cover:
http://www.cox-internet.com/072070/Cover-placementofbearings.JPG
I hope this helps someone.
"JTC" <luas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:vj8opv6...@corp.supernews.com...
noah
JTC
gary...@gmail.com
where they go. Your diagrams have been a great help and do look like
the inside of my valve body but I do not see any washers. Were there
any washers in your valve body pump? Does anybody know where I might
get a diagram showing where these washers go? My OEM manual for the
engine does not show the washers but mentions that they are there. This
is for a Prestolite pump off a 1983 Chrysler 90hp.