Hobie 16 rigging question
Jonathan Frank
forward stay and the Jib. Once the jib is pulled up and tight, the
forward stay is now very loose. What does one do with the stay? Do we
leave it hooked up to the shackle in case the jib cable breaks or do we
disconnect the forward stay and lash it somewhere else? It we leave it
hooked up, is it just supposed to flap around in the wind? Any help
would be greatly appreciated...
Jim
brian whatcott
Frank,shre...@bellsouth.net says...
case: a jib halliard is meant for the up haul task not to carry mast loads - so if
there is an opportunity, haul up until the jib is flying, but not so the forward
stay goes very slack.
Brian Whatcott Altus OK
brian whatcott
Frank,shre...@bellsouth.net says...
>
>We just picked up a Hobie 16 (used) and have a question regarding the
>forward stay and the Jib. Once the jib is pulled up and tight, the
>forward stay is now very loose. What does one do with the stay? Do we
>leave it hooked up to the shackle in case the jib cable breaks or do we
>disconnect the forward stay and lash it somewhere else? It we leave it
>hooked up, is it just supposed to flap around in the wind? Any help
>would be greatly appreciated...
>
>Jim
>
Jim,
I received this helpful note from an anonymous contributor. I
expect it was intended for you.
Best regards
Brian Whatcott Altus OK
At 01:28 7/25/99 -0700, you wrote:
>It sounds like your jib halyard is longer than your forstay. Try moving the pin
in the adjuster up a hole. This will increase the distance from the mast to the
bridle tomake up the length of the jibs luff. you will have to adjust your
shrouds to make up the extra distance of the forestay. It will probably lean the
mast further to the stern, but it is supposed to some. I hope this helps.
Douglas Ward
Jonathan Frank <shre...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:379A357B...@bellsouth.net...
> We just picked up a Hobie 16 (used) and have a question regarding the
> forward stay and the Jib. Once the jib is pulled up and tight, the
> forward stay is now very loose. What does one do with the stay? Do we
> leave it hooked up to the shackle in case the jib cable breaks or do we
> disconnect the forward stay and lash it somewhere else? It we leave it
> hooked up, is it just supposed to flap around in the wind? Any help
> would be greatly appreciated...
>
> Jim
>
You might have better luck posting this ??? in the Open Forum of the
Catamaran Sailer web page at http://www.catsailor.com/
SoccerChSC
to far forwrd and from side to side. at the port and starboard the is the
shackle fitting that has three or four holes with a pin on each where the stays
and turnbuckle assembly clip into. Whe you shoulder up the mast with someone
pulling the forestay by a rope the two side stays should become taught and the
should be a rake in the mast at around 12 to 15 degrees aft. when you secure
the forestay into the bridle there is an extended turnbuckle with about eight
wholes shackle in it to alow you to tune the mast. if not purchse one. place
the pin in the lowest whole possible while apply pressure with your shoulder to
the mast. If you are getting to much slack in the forestay either you pinned
the port and starboard stays to high if it has been tuned before or you dont
have the forestay pinned low enough in the shackle Make sure you pin the mast
once set. The eyelet in the jib connects to the extended shackle just below the
forestay pin. When you hoist the jib the forestay should only have about an
inch of play in it. The adjustments of the turnbuckles on the three stays are
how you fine tune the mast. Iv'e seen racer rake the mast to around twenty odd
degrees aft. The forstay only holds the mast up when the jib is not used. The
jib halyard holds the weight of the mast under sail. It should be cleated to
the front of the mast and sinched up tight to allow no slack between the two
side stays. hope this helps
theron hicks
rigging advice.
1. I generally prefer to have the maximum mast rake. That is the mast
should be raked as far to the rear as possible. Note that I am generally a
very light crew. If you are a heavy crew then less rake is desireable. In
general rake back maximum for speed and less rake for power. In otherwords
mast rake is equivalent to trading off "torque" for "speed". Also the mast
rake will affect the steering of the boat. I can no longer remember the
exact relationship but the boat should have a slight tendancy to point into
the wind when you release the tiller. This can be effected by either
adjusting the mast rake (easy and no risk) or by modifying the rake of the
rudders (nost so easy and if you have to re-drill your rudders it may be
difficult to repair.) The newer boats all have rudder rake adjustment, but
my boat is a 1974 vintage so some of these rudder comments may not be of
value. The principle is still the same.
2. The forestay should be slack with respect to the stay inside the
leading edge of the jib. The way I configure mine is to let the forestay
have about 4 to 6 inches of slack (the belly between the the forestay and
the jib leading edge.) Yes, leave it all connected and flapping in the
breeze. You don't want to take a chance on the mast dropping if the stay
lets go. Also, don't forget to pull the pin to let the mast rotate and
don't forget to check the condition of both ends of all your stays and
trapeze lines. One of these braking can be embarasing at best or down right
dangerous at worst.
Now for a short object lesson. I am very light (about 135 lbs.) I took a
good (non-sailing) friend sailing on Lake Michigan. My friend weighs over
200 lbs. I get him out into the trapeze harness and convince him to trust
the harness. He does, but then the harness wire let go (i.e. broke). Check
the condition of your crimps on the stays and harness wires.
Lesson 2.
Another friend about 160 lbs. Hooked in the harness. I stuffed the lee
side bow under and the boat began a pitchpole. Friend swings out front
(Tarzan style) on the harness. Fortunately he managed to uncleat the jib
and we pulled out without completing the pitchpole. For the uninitiated
pitchpole means to roll the boat over its nose (or noses?) Lesson: A
Hobie is a high performance craft and can easily be rolled in any one of 360
different directions given the correct circumstances. I know, I've done
them all. By the way, more mast rake seems to stabilze the boat (especially
against pitchpole.)
Have Fun Sailing
Theron J. Hicks
Steven Shelikoff
[lot's of stuff I agree with, including the fact that the forward stay
should be slack, but left attached when the jib is raised]
> Now for a short object lesson. I am very light (about 135 lbs.) I took a
> good (non-sailing) friend sailing on Lake Michigan. My friend weighs over
> 200 lbs. I get him out into the trapeze harness and convince him to trust
> the harness. He does, but then the harness wire let go (i.e. broke). Check
> the condition of your crimps on the stays and harness wires.
I always check the condition of the shouds when stepping the mast. But
I took a trip on a friend's Prindle cat and was in the trapeze when a
shroud broke. We were flying a hull in strong air and I was jerked
violently up to about 20' above the boat, where I looked down and
wondered what the hell just happened. I landed on the sail and
amazingly didn't get hurt. We jury rigged the boom into a mast and got
back in under our own power. Lesson: Check the shrouds of other
peoples boats before going for a ride, especially if it's used in salt
water regularly.
Steve
--
/ / /
\ \ \ mailto:shel...@averstar.com
/ / /
SoccerChSC
is doing the job is if you are in heavy winds and the jib halyard gives way the
stress the fittings on the pontoons and forestay take is not a good thing. Most
trailer sailors don't tune the forestay once pinned. They let the jib do the
tuning. One thing you have to watch for is to much tension on the jib or
forestay. If you look at the shrouds they are connected lower the mast then the
forestay over tightening will produce a bow in your mast.
Maximillian Natzet
> should be slack, but left attached when the jib is raised]
I have a Prindle but I am familiar enough with the Hobie 16 to
whole heartedly agree - leave the forestay to flap in the wind.
> > Now for a short object lesson. ...
> > Check the condition of your crimps on the stays and harness wires.
>
Object lesson number 2 ...
> I took a trip on a friend's Prindle cat and ... was jerked violently up
> to about 20' above the boat,
> Lesson: Check the shrouds of other peoples boats before going for a ride
Object lesson number 3 ...
I was out with a friend on my well inspected P16 a few years ago.
We were screaming along at a pretty good clip, windward hull just
starting to inch up, when we ran in a submerged grassy hummock -
stopped the boat dead. crew mass * crew velocity = broken bungie
cords + high flying trapeeze acts. Lesson: Even on a well
inspected boat you may find yourself 'jerked up violently to about
20' above the boat.' :)
Steven Shelikoff
True enough. But I don't care how hard you stopped when hitting the
submerged grassy hummock, it wasn't as violent a jerk as being strapped
to a mast when the shroud breaks in heavy wind.
Thomas Hood
spinnaker on a 52 footer when the driver broached the boat. It wasn't
very much fun getting swung from 80 feet up down to the wavetops and
back. Broke 2 ribs and a finger that time. I didn't go back up that
stick for the rest of the race. I was just happy to be breathing
however much it hurt to do it!
Thomas Hood
th...@ifn.com
tho...@yachtrace.net
Steven Shelikoff
>
> It wasn't on a cat, but I was up the stick taking the strop off a
> spinnaker on a 52 footer when the driver broached the boat. It wasn't
> very much fun getting swung from 80 feet up down to the wavetops and
> back. Broke 2 ribs and a finger that time. I didn't go back up that
> stick for the rest of the race. I was just happy to be breathing
> however much it hurt to do it!
That actually sounds like it would be a lot of fun, except for the
injuries of course.
Thomas Hood
whip. I'm not an easily frightened guy by and large, but I can tell you
I was not real sure I'd live through it as the boat righted. Scared me
silly. The broken finger and ribs came from hitting the mast after the
boat righted itself, not from hitting the water. The arc the mast
carved on the way down was actually pretty controlled.
Thomas Hood
th...@ifn.com
tho...@yachtrace.net
Bart Eleveld
Holzworth) wrote:
(snip)
>I'm surprised that Hobies use the jib halyard for mast support. On Supers,
>the jibsail rides on the forestay, and is raised with a rope halyard. It
>is a rolling furling jib though.
It's really the combination of the jib halyard and the jib luff rope.
I suspect that on your "Supers" it's much the same, even though the
jib rides on the forstay. Unless the whole rig is as tight as a drum,
when you tension the jib, it will cause some slack to appear in the
forestay, meaning that now the mast support comes from the sail rather
than the stay.
bl...@nospam.com
When the jib/jib halyard are used to support the mast (forestay ends up
slack), it's usually a jib luff wire that is used. The jib floats on the
wire (adjustable at the tack or head) to provide correct luff tension, the
halyard/jib luff wire is used to adjust rake and rig tension.
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