1 7/8" and 2" trailer balls
pbo
hitch on a 1 7/8" ball? any problems? Thanks
Kevin in San Diego
The 2" trailer will fall off, you just can't tighten it.
--
Kevin in San Diego
88 190D
88 XJ
You know the drill to mail me, take out the *remove*
hedstrom@*remove*connectnet.com
SUPRDAVE wrote in message
<199809020124...@ladder03.news.aol.com>...
>>I know it shouldn"t be done, but, has anyone ever hauled a trailer with
2"
>>hitch on a 1 7/8" ball? any problems? Thanks
>
>i did that once accidently with a camper i had. i only took it a short
>distance, but one part was a steep hill which i stopped on and then started
>again. once i thought about it, that scared me. had it not been for the
extreme
>tongue weight of the trailer, it could had gotten away from me. unless
you're
>just moving it around the yard, i wouldnt even think of doing something so
>foolish.
>
>
>D.B. Young. Team OS/2!
>-->this message printed on recycled disk space<--
>/members.aol.com/suprdave/index.htm Best view with ANY browser!
> all opinions expressed are patent pending
>
>
Bob James
>
> I know it shouldn"t be done, but, has anyone ever hauled a trailer with 2"
> hitch on a 1 7/8" ball? any problems? Thanks
As a matter of fact, a friend of mine told me a story about one guy that
pulled a boat (2" coupler) with a 1 7/8" ball. He didn't get very far
before the trailer and tow vehicle were parted. Bottom line: DON'T DO
IT!!!
Vaughn Buck
SUPRDAVE
>hitch on a 1 7/8" ball? any problems? Thanks
i did that once accidently with a camper i had. i only took it a short
Lyle Rooff
safety chains are strong enough. I watched one fellow who hadn't bothered
with the chains trying to launch a couple years ago, using the hitch/ball
combination you described. While the truck stopped at the top of the ramp,
the boat and trailer continued down into the water, bouncing the prop every
foot or so, until the whole thing was in the water and drifting freely.
A 2 inch ball will only set you back five or ten bucks. An unexpected
trailer separation could cost you the entire value of the boat, along with
any damage to property and other people. IOW, don't even think about it for
anything except possibly moving the boat within your driveway or yard.
Eliyahu (Lyle) Rooff
lro...@bmi.net
Visit my website, "Cats, cars, ships, space and Synagogue" at
http://www.bmi.net/lrooff/Home%20Page.htm
pbo wrote in message <6si5on$ee8$1...@news3.mr.net>...
Dave Witte
behind his mini-pickup (a bad idea already) and as he was heading south
through Galt, he looked up in the mirror to see the trailer come off and
careen down the shoulder of the elevated highway. From there the boat flew
off and ended up in the driveway of a neighboring house. It actually didn't
do a terrible amount of damage, but all in all, I think a $20 investment in
the proper size ball would have been a better alternative.
Blue Skies,
Dave
JC
like all hell was breaking loose...Now, I'm so paranoid I keep a cover
on my ball when not in use...(heh, no pun intended)
JC
On Tue, 1 Sep 1998 20:06:52 -0500, "pbo" <p...@sherbtel.net> wrote:
>I know it shouldn"t be done, but, has anyone ever hauled a trailer with 2"
>hitch on a 1 7/8" ball? any problems? Thanks
>
>
Don't forget the rec.boats map project address:
http://www.undertech.com/boaters
All are welcome to join in and find a friend
or at least someone to mooch boat rides off of
while on vacation ;)
No cost, no ads...No crap!
Martin Mikelsons
person would assume the person asking the question knew it was
a bad idea. The question was about ways to avoid the worst
problems.
There are many legitimate scenarios where one could be faced with
the problem of towing a 2" coupler with a 1 7/8" ball. What are the
limitations, and what steps could be taken to overcome them?
For example, moving a trailer around a yard or parking lot seems pretty
safe, especially if the trailer has a heavy tongue. I have done that myself
and I am still around to tell about it.
I admit, I have never tried it over any distance. But if I find somone
giving away a 18' Hobie cat in a yardsale, but I must take it away immediately,
and it is late on Sunday, and the nearest hitch store is 40 miles away. If
the trailer had a 2" hitch and I only had my 1 7/8" ball with me, I would
try it
- probably shift the weight as much forward as possible
- snug up the safety chains nice and short
- tighten up the hitch as much as possible
(maybe wrap something around the ball)
- go real slow and keep looking back
Now these are just off the top of my head. Is there somone with real
experience who can give some useful advice?
Martin Mikelsons
Island Trader 37 "Wildwood Flower"
http://www.eskimo.com/~martinm/
Leno and Pam
wrong ball..!!
2" ball about 7 bucks at Wallmart....Leno
John Liska
>
> What a bunch of uninformative paranoid ninnies. A rational
> person would assume the person asking the question knew it was
> a bad idea. The question was about ways to avoid the worst
> problems.
>
> There are many legitimate scenarios where one could be faced with
> the problem of towing a 2" coupler with a 1 7/8" ball. What are the
> limitations, and what steps could be taken to overcome them?
>
I have what is called a Versa Ball. I think thats the brand name. Any
way it is a post type thing that accepts any size ball. I have two boats
one uses 17/8" and the other 2". Just change balls for what ever I need
at the time. Got mine at a trailer supply place for about $25.00 if I
remember right.
John Liska
Portland Oregon
Vogt Family
>
> What a bunch of uninformative paranoid ninnies. A rational
> person would assume the person asking the question knew it was
> a bad idea. The question was about ways to avoid the worst
> problems.
Yes! Thank you. There seem to be an abundance of people that like to
say "no" as their default answer. I seem to encounter this in life
quite often and it bugs me.
Birken
Dudley Cornman
> I know it shouldn"t be done, but, has anyone ever hauled a trailer with 2"
> hitch on a 1 7/8" ball? any problems? Thanks
>
>
Yes... short distance with safety chains attached... no problems.
But if you are planning a head buy/get the right ball. If you get caught
unexpectedly with a small ball when you need a large one... you have to
decide if it's worth it.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Dudley Cornman
> - probably shift the weight as much forward as possible
> - snug up the safety chains nice and short
> - tighten up the hitch as much as possible
> (maybe wrap something around the ball)
> - go real slow and keep looking back
A 1 7/8" ball is strong enough to haul most loads that a 2" ball can
haul. So it's a matter of keeping it from bouncing off. The only
possible way I can think of doing that (if you haven't planned to do it)
is to wrap the coupler and drawbar (if so equipped) with a short chain or
cable.
If for some reason you want to do this all the time, maybe you could get
one of those combination pintle/ball drawbars and latch the pintle
part down on top of the coupler...
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
ALFENEW
>There are many legitimate scenarios where one could be faced with
>the problem of towing a 2" coupler with a 1 7/8" ball. What are the
>limitations, and what steps could be taken to overcome them?
Randy sez:
Martin, there never has been or ever will be a legitimate reason for towing
with a mismatched ball and coupler. This is why they make two different
sizes
get it? "different"! The wide tolerance range on pressed and expanded metal
couplers is scary enough, even with the proper size ball. Not to mention the
purpose of different size's being load rating. You and anyone else out there
that would even consider doing this scares me. Hell, why don't you just take
a piece of clothes line and tie the trailer to the vehicle?!!!! What scares
me
even more is you probably have. Thus the expression: "If Moron's could fly,
the sky would be Black"
Martin sez:
>For example, moving a trailer around a yard or parking lot seems pretty
>safe, especially if the trailer has a heavy tongue. I have done that
myself
>and I am still around to tell about it.
Randy sez:
Many things seem pretty safe, right up to the point that an accident
happens.
Unfortunately, you are still around. It is people like you that would get
away with
out an injury, but, hurt someone else in the process.
Martin sez:
>I admit, I have never tried it over any distance. But if I find somone
>giving away a 18' Hobie cat in a yardsale, but I must take it away
immediately,
>and it is late on Sunday, and the nearest hitch store is 40 miles away. If
>the trailer had a 2" hitch and I only had my 1 7/8" ball with me, I would
>try it
Randy sez:
You are an Idiot, period. What the hell does a ball cost? $8 max? Why don't
you
have one of each handy? I know that for you it would make too much sense,
and
realize, that is the problem, you have no sense. Please purchase the size
ball that
you do not have, and use it!!! The world will be a safer place with one less
Moron
out there towing a trailer improperly.
Martin sez:
>Now these are just off the top of my head. Is there somone with real
>experience who can give some useful advice?
Randy sez:
Yes Martin, we can tell this is off the top of your head, which is the
whole problem.
You are supposed to use what is in your head, like, your brain, but, at this
point
I doubt you even have one!!!
My advice - Go skydiving without a parachute.
Randy
Rolavine
ball. I have one, and the designers of it should be lined up against the wall
and shot for potential murder! I had the thing welded on, so I am stuck doing
the did it grab yet dance! I can't remember who made this thing. but it is the
company that seemed to make most of the couplers, at the NAPA store where I got
it.
Alaska Bill
>
> Also, don't under any circumstances get a coupler that is made for either size
> ball. I have one, and the designers of it should be lined up against the wall
> and shot for potential murder!
What problems have you had with this coupler?
I've been using such couplers for about 5 years and they work fine on
1-7/8 balls. It is really difficult to couple to a 2-inch ball. On my
1-7/8 balls (this could get ugly....), it fits well and will not release
with the latch locked....I have the same coupler on 2 trailers and tow
with 2 trucks...no problems...
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
I built a cabin in remote ALASKA
BACKCOUNTRY area with no roads
We lived in a CAMP while we worked
Had to BUILD A BOAT or two to get there
Stop by and have a look at the photos...
http://www.alaska.net/~bwalker/sadie/schome.htm
ALFENEW
instead of putting yourself and everyone else around you at risk from
your stupidity. It's amazing the rigging you people come up with
to circumvent the whole design and safety issue of proper equipment.
Thus the saying: You can not make anything Idiot proof, as, Idiot's are
so ingenious.
Dudley Cornman wrote in message ...
ALFENEW
Martin Mikelsons wrote in message <35ED77E8...@eskimo.com>...
>What a bunch of uninformative paranoid ninnies. A rational
>person would assume the person asking the question knew it was
>a bad idea. The question was about ways to avoid the worst
>problems.
<Snip<>
A rational person, assume? No Martin, a rational person would not use
unsafe practices in towing an 3,000 lb. wrecking ball, should it disconnect
from the vehicle. If you choose to kill yourself, fine, no great loss, but,
to
put someone else at risk? Not good.
The only way to avoid the worst problems is to use the proper size ball,
you Idiot!
Randy
George F. Pinson
<mar...@eskimo.com> wrote:
>What a bunch of uninformative paranoid ninnies. A rational
>person would assume the person asking the question knew it was
>a bad idea. The question was about ways to avoid the worst
>problems.
>
>There are many legitimate scenarios where one could be faced with
>the problem of towing a 2" coupler with a 1 7/8" ball. What are the
>limitations, and what steps could be taken to overcome them?
>
>For example, moving a trailer around a yard or parking lot seems pretty
>safe, especially if the trailer has a heavy tongue. I have done that myself
>and I am still around to tell about it.
>
>I admit, I have never tried it over any distance. But if I find somone
>giving away a 18' Hobie cat in a yardsale, but I must take it away immediately,
>and it is late on Sunday, and the nearest hitch store is 40 miles away. If
>the trailer had a 2" hitch and I only had my 1 7/8" ball with me, I would
>try it
>
> - probably shift the weight as much forward as possible
> - snug up the safety chains nice and short
> - tighten up the hitch as much as possible
> (maybe wrap something around the ball)
> - go real slow and keep looking back
>
>Now these are just off the top of my head. Is there somone with real
>experience who can give some useful advice?
>
>Martin Mikelsons
>Island Trader 37 "Wildwood Flower"
>http://www.eskimo.com/~martinm/
Well I guess I am going to be the only one to admit that I HAVE done
this.
I bought a small boat (1,200 lbs) and because of it's size, thought
the hitch on the trailer to be 1 7/8. Toung weight was probably 200
lbs.
I towed this boat for 3 1/2 years, and never had a problem. I always
had the safty chains on, and I had the hitch adjusted tight on the
ball. May have been the heavy tounge weight, may have been angels
looking after a fool, may have been one of the luckiest people towing
a boat, may be all of the above, but why does it not rub off on my
lottery tickets!!!!
Just glad I was standing up when I finally read the stamp on the
hitch. Had I been sitting down, I might have had trouble getting up
as a certain part of my anatomy sucked on the seat.
George
------------------------------------------------------------------
Just because you are paranoid does not mean people are not out to get
you.
Marcus G Bell
> What a bunch of uninformative paranoid ninnies. A rational person
> would assume the person asking the question knew it was a bad idea.
I dunno. It was tough to read his mind :-) He only said "it shouldn't
be done" which in some parts of the world carries about the same force
as "don't run with a lollipop in your mouth." You need some cautionary
tale to really know how bad it is.
If somebody has time to ask a question on this group, they probably
have time to find and purchase the proper equipment before they have
to use it in a situation where it really matters. So the emergency
scenario described below is not the likely thrust of the original
question.
> There are many legitimate scenarios where one could be faced with
> the problem of towing a 2" coupler with a 1 7/8" ball.
[snip]
> I admit, I have never tried it over any distance. But if I find
> somone giving away a 18' Hobie cat in a yardsale, but I must take it
> away immediately, and it is late on Sunday, and the nearest hitch
> store is 40 miles away. If the trailer had a 2" hitch and I only
> had my 1 7/8" ball with me, I would try it
First, I'd try to imagine how many ways my wife would kill me for
bringing home a boat that we have no place to store, even if it didn't
cost a thing, without asking her first. Getting the right hitch ball
would be the least of my worries. Been there, done that.
I used to keep the receiver with ball attached in the garage with the
boat and trailer, not wanting to leave it sticking beyond the bumper.
I'll admit to recently keeping the receiver/ball in the spare tire
compartment Just In Case I run into that great deal and need to haul
it away pronto. After this discusion here I'm now thinking it a good
idea to have another ball in the trunk, Just In Case I need a 2" and
I've been running with a 1-7/8", or vice-versa.
Did I ever tell you about the time I used a 2" ball to haul out a
friend's sailboat, but his trailer was 1-7/8" ? We had no time to
drive 20 miles to town on a Sunday evening to try and find a proper
ball. He needed to get his boat stowed and get the heck out of Dodge.
The 1-7/8" coupler just sat on top of the 2" ball without slipping
down over it. My friend stood on the trailer tongue with one hand on
the tailgate, the other on the boat, to retain balance. We decided to
forego the safety chains, thinking that if it popped off, the tongue
would dig in and slow the trailer while he jumped the heck out of the
way. Anyway, we were on a gravel driveway, not a highway. I pulled up
the ramp by revving the engine in first (automatic tranny) and
modulating brake pressure, idled along in first with no brake once on
level ground, till we reached the destination 1/4 mile away from the
ramp. It looked like my friend was skateboarding between the truck and
boat as we went along. No problems.
--
--
Marcus. ( be...@mail.med.upenn.edu )
Martin Mikelsons
> ...
> you Idiot!
Thanks, Randy, for setting me straight. We should just drop dead if
we dont have all the exact tools and equipment for a perfect job.
Next time I run out of toilet paper, I will be sure to get your
permission to make do with a Kleenex.
In all serousness, there are always circumstances where taking any
risk is justifiable. To all who say "Never do that" I pity your lack
of imagination, and I hope I never have to depend on you in a real
emergency.
Fortunately, several informative replies did creep into this thread
so I am ready to sign off...
Martin Mikelsons
Island Trader 37 "Wildwood Flower" 47 58' 18" N 122 44' 20" W
http://www.eskimo.com/~martinm/
Del Cecchi
>
> The chances of having the trailor come loose of the ball are there, but the
> bigger concern is the size of the bolt/stud holding the ball. A 1-7/8 ball (
> the one I have ) has a small bolt while a 2" ball has a much thicker stud.
Mine are both the same. (could really make some bad jokes about that).
How else would I be able to swap them on my non-receiver style hitch.?
del cecchi
Makowicki
Makowicki
put washers on your stud than on your balls.
With my balls they have different size studs, I guess you balls have the same
size stud. this does sound a bit like i am in the wrong news group.
Marcus G Bell
The hole in my receiver drawbar is 3/4". I can use a 1-7/8" ball with
5/8" shank, along with a 50-cent 5/8 ID, 3/4 OD bushing sold by the
maker of the ball, to fit the ball to hole in my drawbar. Or, for
another dollar, I can buy a 1-7/8" ball with a 3/4" shank, which is
what I did. The 2" ball comes with a 3/4" shank as well.
There are about 12 different balls available at Pep Boys, with
different diameters, and with different shank lengths and
diameters. It isn't difficult to get several balls that fit your
drawbar or non-receiver hitch, without resorting to spacers.
Pay attention to the weight ratings of your hitch.
Alaska Bill
> There are about 12 different balls available at Pep Boys, with
> different diameters, and with different shank lengths and
> diameters. It isn't difficult to get several balls that fit your
> drawbar or non-receiver hitch, without resorting to spacers.
I can just see you in Pep Boys...
M: "How many balls are available here?"
Poor Kid working at Pep Boys: "I'm sorry sir, what was your question?"
M: "What size balls do you have?"
PK: "Sir, we're no longer affiliated with Evalyn's Escorts"
M: "No, no, no!! What I mean is: what length and diameter are your
shafts?"
PK: "Sir, I will ask my supervisor to assist you."
M: "Don't btother!! All I want to know is: what size balls come attached
to what diameter and length shafts around here??? You see, if I can find
the right combination to fit up my receiver, I'll be satisfied!!! Hell,
I'll even insert spacers!!"
bmc...@ti.com
supply store.
Bill
Makowicki wrote in message
<199809040229...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
Rolavine
>
>I've been using such couplers for about 5 years and they work fine on
>1-7/8 balls. It is really difficult to couple to a 2-inch ball. On my
Yes, 2 inch balls, have to massage the coupler on to the ball, have to rock the
trailer back and forth while moving the shoe all the way back. All this is a
pain, and everytime I curse the bastards who made this thing. If you don't do
this massage then the coupler won't go all the way down, and it is possible to
think you have it on when you don't. I thried it once with 1 7/8 inch and was
too afraid to run the trailer because of the way it felt, loose with the shoe
doing all the work!
LeeTWash
enough to tow my boat, I have to rent something when its time to move it.
The boat was in the shop and ready to be picked up and I rented a 1 ton
pickup from a small rental outift that said it was okay to tow with with it.
The truck was equipped with both a bumper hitch and a receiver hitch. Being
pressed for time, I went and picked it up during lunch and went and picked
up the boat and dragged it home using the bumper hitch. Backed the boat into
the driveway, unhitched the rental truck and looked real close at the ball
..... and almost messed up my underwear.
Dragging 4300 # of boat and trailer on a 1 7/8" can be done, when you get
lucky. Promptly went back out and bought a 2" ball drawbar to fit the
receiver. Lesson learned - Don't assume a rental tow vehicle is set up the
way you think it is. And related point - 15' Ryder and U-haul trucks are set
up for towing. The 10' Ryders would be logical alternative for boat towing
but they apparently don't put hitches on them.
pbo wrote in message <6si5on$ee8$1...@news3.mr.net>...
Leno and Pam
The stud size goes along with the load rating..
Leno
Unknown
underestimated the stupidity of some people. They should have made
the sizes different enough so no one would consider coupling a trailer
to an undersized hitch ball.
Rick Marinelli
RickLisa"deletethistoemail"@tidalwave.net
Rick and Lisa Marinelli
wrote:
>Makowicki (mako...@aol.com) wrote:
>
>> The chances of having the trailor come loose of the ball are there,
>> but the bigger concern is the size of the bolt/stud holding the
>> ball. A 1-7/8 ball ( the one I have ) has a small bolt while a 2"
>> ball has a much thicker stud.
>
>The hole in my receiver drawbar is 3/4". I can use a 1-7/8" ball with
>5/8" shank, along with a 50-cent 5/8 ID, 3/4 OD bushing sold by the
>maker of the ball, to fit the ball to hole in my drawbar. Or, for
>another dollar, I can buy a 1-7/8" ball with a 3/4" shank, which is
>what I did. The 2" ball comes with a 3/4" shank as well.
>
My hitch drops have 1" holes in them. I have both 1-7/8" and 2" balls,
both with 1" shanks. They are available if you look for them. Why
use a bushing when you have the capacity to use a larger shank ball?
Go for all the strength you can get.
Rick Marinelli
ricklisaremo...@tidalwave.net
SolarFry
1 7/8" balls with 3/4" shanks are used up to 3500#
2" balls with 1" shank are used for 3500# and up to 5000# Larger balls are
used above 5000#
Makowicki
What size balls does Clinton have?
PInc972390
Big enough to get his ass in a sling.
PInc972390
From what the reports say, Monica could suck the chrome off of either size.
-moz...@whereever.net
>
>What size balls does Clinton have?
I thought the saying was, "... she could suck the chrome off of a trailer
hitch..."
Marcus G Bell
> >The hole in my receiver drawbar is 3/4". I can use a 1-7/8" ball with
> >5/8" shank, along with a 50-cent 5/8 ID, 3/4 OD bushing sold by the
> >maker of the ball, to fit the ball to hole in my drawbar. Or, for
> >another dollar, I can buy a 1-7/8" ball with a 3/4" shank, which is
> >what I did. The 2" ball comes with a 3/4" shank as well.
Rick and Lisa Marinelli (ricklisaremo...@tidalwave.net) wrote:
> My hitch drops have 1" holes in them. I have both 1-7/8" and 2"
> balls, both with 1" shanks. They are available if you look for
> them. Why use a bushing when you have the capacity to use a larger
> shank ball? Go for all the strength you can get.
Thank's for the lecture, but like I said, that's just what I did. You
might note my slight jab aimed at the idea of using a bushing when the
"proper" ball and shank was pennies more. I didn't have to look
far. The store display had about a dozen types of balls there, and I
could pick what I needed.
Like you say, no sense messing with bushings when the proper size
shank can be easily had. We're talking a few dollars to buy the right
ball. It isn't worth the effort or time to do otherwise.
Richard Eriksson
2 - 11/16", (I think). Same size ball with 1" shaft is
available in at least two load ratings - 5000lbs and 8000 lbs.
Not sure what the difference is - maybe different alloys?
Also, if your tow vehicle is equipped with a package that includes
a receiver and pin (Drawtite type) you have to watch load ratings
of the ball mount that slides into the receiver. I use two setups,
a 2" ball and mount rated at 5000 lbs for my 17' boat and a 2 - 11/16"
ball and mount each rated at 8000 lbs for my 27 footer.
DE
Rick and Lisa Marinelli
Gotta have talk with whoever stamped 6000# on my 2" ball...
Rick Marinelli
ricklisaremo...@tidalwave.net
doug
Rick and Lisa Marinelli wrote in message
<3605445d....@newsdesk.tidalwave.net>...
Old Crow
>
> On 19 Sep 1998 23:50:46 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>
> >
> >1 7/8" balls with 3/4" shanks are used up to 3500#
> >
> >2" balls with 1" shank are used for 3500# and up to 5000# Larger balls are
> >used above 5000#
>
> Gotta have talk with whoever stamped 6000# on my 2" ball...
Just looked at my 2" and its only rated for 2000# MAX and I've
been towing at least double that for years !!! Think I'll
replace it just to be safe.
SolarFry
><HTML><PRE>Subject: Re: 1 7/8" and 2" trailer balls
>From: Old Crow <old...@south.net>
>Date: Sun, Sep 20, 1998 21:02 EDT
>Message-id: <3605A5...@south.net>
>
>Rick and Lisa Marinelli wrote:
>>
>> On 19 Sep 1998 23:50:46 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >1 7/8" balls with 3/4" shanks are used up to 3500#
>> >
>> >2" balls with 1" shank are used for 3500# and up to 5000# Larger balls
>are
>> >used above 5000#
>>
>> Gotta have talk with whoever stamped 6000# on my 2" ball...
>
ball...
Sven
A 1 7/8" ball could be rated 2,000-6,000 lbs, a 2" is 3,500-10,000 lbs,
2 5/16" is 6,000-40,000, and 3" is 30,000-40,000.
--
Sven Magnuson
The Expediter
1-800-330-1800 / fax 1-888-330-1888
Please visit our web site http://www.expediter.com
Dudley Cornman
Dudley Cornman
I think that is 2 & 5/16...
I have two convertaballs (duck incomming puns). Anyway one is a 1" shank
with 8000 pound rating on the shank, the other is a 3/4" shank with less
than 8000 pounds rating (I don't remember or care, 5000 I think).
Anyway, I have 1 7/8", 2" and 2 5/16"s balls. The 1 7/8" and 2" balls fit
either shaft, the 2 5/16" only fits the 1" shank... These two shanks and
ball combinations suit my needs very well.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Rick and Lisa Marinelli
Actually, the entire system determines how much you can tow. Steel is
made in many strengths. Stainless is not inherently stronger than any
other steel.
Rick Marinelli
ricklisaremo...@tidalwave.net
JJames915
>Actually, the entire system determines how much you can tow. Steel is
>made in many strengths. Stainless is not inherently stronger than any
>other steel.
>
In fact stainless ain't all that strong at all. Lots of other steels are
stronger than stainless.
SolarFry
><HTML><PRE>Subject: Re: 1 7/8" and 2" trailer balls
>Date: Thu, Sep 24, 1998 17:39 EDT
>Message-id: <360abb9b....@newsdesk.tidalwave.net>
>
>On 22 Sep 1998 01:19:02 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>
>>
>>>Subject: Re: 1 7/8" and 2" trailer balls
>>>From: Old Crow <old...@south.net>
>>>Date: Sun, Sep 20, 1998 21:02 EDT
>>>Message-id: <3605A5...@south.net>
>>>
>>>Rick and Lisa Marinelli wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 19 Sep 1998 23:50:46 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>> >1 7/8" balls with 3/4" shanks are used up to 3500#
>>>> >
>>>> >2" balls with 1" shank are used for 3500# and up to 5000# Larger balls
>>>are
>>>> >used above 5000#
>>>>
>>>> Gotta have talk with whoever stamped 6000# on my 2" ball...
>>>
>the
>>ball...
>>
>
>Actually, the entire system determines how much you can tow. Steel is
>made in many strengths. Stainless is not inherently stronger than any
>other steel.
>
wears out and they rust...
Steve Zinski
used to tow my 21' run-about. One is a smaller trailer used to tow my 14'
skiff, and the other is a double-wide PWC trailer. I had 2" ball tongues
installed on all of the trailers so that I did not have to switch balls
on my truck (the tandem-axle trailer came from the factory with a 2" ball
tongue, the smaller trailers came with 1-7/8" tongues and I had the
dealer replace them with 2" tongues when I purchased them.) It sure makes
life easier this way.
--Steve
--
===========================================================
To reply via email, remove one 'r' from my address:
szi...@rrichmond.edu
Dudley Cornman
> On 22 Sep 1998 01:19:02 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>
>>
>>><HTML><PRE>Subject: Re: 1 7/8" and 2" trailer balls
>>>Date: Sun, Sep 20, 1998 21:02 EDT
>>>Message-id: <3605A5...@south.net>
>>>
>>>Rick and Lisa Marinelli wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 19 Sep 1998 23:50:46 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >
>>>> >1 7/8" balls with 3/4" shanks are used up to 3500#
>>>> >
>>>> >2" balls with 1" shank are used for 3500# and up to 5000# Larger balls
>>>are
>>>> >used above 5000#
>>>>
>>>> Gotta have talk with whoever stamped 6000# on my 2" ball...
>>>
>>6000# is a tempered ss bal... The shaft determines how much you can tow not the
>>ball...
>>
>
> Actually, the entire system determines how much you can tow. Steel is
> made in many strengths. Stainless is not inherently stronger than any
> other steel.
In fact aren't certain stainless steels much softer than many other
steels...
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Marcus G Bell
> Yup! My balls are chromed tempered steel... After a while of use
> the chrome wears out and they rust...
Then you might try slathering some grease on your balls before
clamping the hitch on them. This keeps the chafing to a minimum.
Richard C. Eriksson
>
> >
> > Actually, the entire system determines how much you can tow. Steel is
> > made in many strengths. Stainless is not inherently stronger than any
> > other steel.
>
> In fact aren't certain stainless steels much softer than many other
> steels...
>
> dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
The common 300 series of stainless steel (304, etc.) are not
hardenable through heat treatment. They may be annealed to
reduce residual stresses. Stainless steels are basically alloys
of chromium and iron which produces resistance to corrosion and
heat. Regular steel (non-stainless) can be much stronger in
terms of tension loads.
DE
Lyle Rooff
Richard C. Eriksson wrote in message <360FD4...@vptec.com>...
reduce corrosion and to stay looking good on a nice rig) with a high-tensile
or chromoly steel shaft for strength. Does anyone make such an item?
Eliyahu (Lyle) Rooff
lro...@bmi.net
Visit my website, "Cats, cars, ships, space and Synagogue" at
http://www.bmi.net/lrooff/Home%20Page.htm
Unknown
wrote:
>In article <360abb9b....@newsdesk.tidalwave.net>, ricklisaremo...@tidalwave.net (Rick and Lisa Marinelli) writes:
>> On 22 Sep 1998 01:19:02 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>><HTML><PRE>Subject: Re: 1 7/8" and 2" trailer balls
>>>>From: Old Crow <old...@south.net>
>>>>Date: Sun, Sep 20, 1998 21:02 EDT
>>>>Message-id: <3605A5...@south.net>
>>>>
>>>>Rick and Lisa Marinelli wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> On 19 Sep 1998 23:50:46 GMT, sola...@aol.com (SolarFry) wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> >
>>>>> >1 7/8" balls with 3/4" shanks are used up to 3500#
>>>>> >
>>>>> >2" balls with 1" shank are used for 3500# and up to 5000# Larger balls
>>>>are
>>>>> >used above 5000#
>>>>>
>>>>> Gotta have talk with whoever stamped 6000# on my 2" ball...
>>>>
>>>6000# is a tempered ss bal... The shaft determines how much you can tow not the
>>>ball...
>>>
>>
>> Actually, the entire system determines how much you can tow. Steel is
>> made in many strengths. Stainless is not inherently stronger than any
>> other steel.
>
>
>In fact aren't certain stainless steels much softer than many other
>steels...
>
I don't believe there is a direct relationship, really. Stainless is
generally harder (judging by knives), but this does not translate into
stronger (or weaker for that matter).
Skip Gundlach
ricklisadele...@tidalwave.net wrote in message >>>>6000# is a
tempered ss bal... The shaft determines how much you can tow not the
>>>>ball...
>>>>
>>>
>>> Actually, the entire system determines how much you can tow. Steel is
>>> made in many strengths. Stainless is not inherently stronger than any
>>> other steel.
>>
>>
>>In fact aren't certain stainless steels much softer than many other
>>steels...
>>
>
>I don't believe there is a direct relationship, really. Stainless is
>generally harder (judging by knives), but this does not translate into
>stronger (or weaker for that matter).
Harder vs brittle is a tradeoff in knives. The best edges are on the carbon
steel ones, but they look pretty grody unless you take rigorous care of
them. Stainless steel is pretty, but doesn't hold an edge very well. Some
mix of that usually is the compromise made...
L8R
Skip
LeeTWash
general varieties. 300 series e.g. 304 / 316 do not corrode under most
common environments that allows them to build their protective oxide finish.
They are in the 80,000 psi ultimate strength range and reasonably ductile.
The 400 series such as 440 will corrode but are heat treatable. 440C as an
example runs 110,000 psi ultimate annealed up to 285,000 tempered. They can
get quit brittle.
Plus there are variations such as 17-4PH which tries to do both jobs.
Sometimes they get misused. Example 1 - US DOE had Boeing build 3 big
windmills in eastern Washington state. Somebody picked 17-4PH apparently for
the main drive shaft - They broke either 1 or 2 in service and all 3 were
finally sold for scrap a couple years ago. Example 2 - Washington State
ferry system ended up with stainless steel piping in there sea water
sprinkler system on a number of vessels. It started failing from corrosion
and they are having to replace it. I would assume they used 304 series pipe.
Unknown
endorsing Draw-Tite?
"Even I can't suck the chrome off these trailer hitches.... "
Jim Swist
explorer, could someone clarify something,,,
The built in hitch (basically a reinforced rear bumper) claims to
be able to handle 3500 lbs? So why would I want to install an
(ugly) aftermarket class II hitch (3500 lbs, right?).
Yet I see this done on explorers...
MarkypieP
One great thing about frame mounted hitches over bumper mounted is that you can
make a sharp turn without crinkling up your bumper.
Mark Lenox
Jim Swist wrote:
So you can use different receivers to adjust the ball height.
Mark Lenox
Dudley Cornman
> Speaking of trailer balls, and the previous thread on towing with an
> explorer, could someone clarify something,,,
>
> The built in hitch (basically a reinforced rear bumper) claims to
> be able to handle 3500 lbs? So why would I want to install an
> (ugly) aftermarket class II hitch (3500 lbs, right?).
>
> Yet I see this done on explorers...
One reason is that the receiver allows you a greater turning angle. It
often doesn't take much jack knife when backing up to "adjust" your
coupler and bumper.
Another reason is hitch height adjustabiliity. It's hard to adjust a
bumper hitch.
While todays step bumpers are better than in years past (especially on
mini trucks), they still are no substitute for a good receiver hitch...
IMO. AFAIC it's the only way to tow.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Sven
bike racks and cargo carriers that slide into the hitch.
Sven
it is $2 more, trying to convince him to part with an extra $15-20 for
something he is convinced he doesn't need can be a chore. Also, if they
have moved up from say a Taurus to an Explorer, they may want to use the
old mount on the new hitch.
hkrause
I have a '97 F150 with the big V-8. It has a bumper with a hitchball hole in it.
Even so, I ordered the factory towing kit, which comes with a frame mounted
receiver. That truck bumper is expensive...and if you are constantly mounting
and demounting a trailer hit to it, sooner or later you are going to prang the
bumper. Or the tailgate.
--
Harry Krause
EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address
- - - - - - - - - -
"Discipline is organization, chain of command and logistics."
hidda
hkrause wrote in message <361A1665...@erols.com>...
There are other reasons for ordering a truck/vehicle with a towing package.
At least with Ford, it includes the wiring harness and socket, an adapter
plug, the receiver, high capacity battery, high capacity alternator, and
tranny and engine oil coolers for less than what it probably would cost to
have it all added later on.
Dennis
Remove HORMEL from hi...@yaHORMELhoo.com to email