Any thoughts about how other people solve this?
Thanks !
Brian
I have found helpful information available from mail order optics
companies and birding references on the web.
You wrote:
>
> I am looking for advice concerning the best size, features, make and model
> of binoculars for sea kayaking. Also, people's ideas on how to store 'em.
> I am looking for advice concerning the best size, features, make and model
> of binoculars for sea kayaking. Also, people's ideas on how to store 'em.
> Most "nautical" binoculars seem too large to wear around your neck all the
> time, although I can see how you might store them in a deck mounted pack.
>
> Any thoughts about how other people solve this?
Like any gear item, the best set of features in binoculars depends on
what you expect to do with them. I'll guess that you have no other
plans for them except sea kayaking and that you will use them for
checking out the shoreline from 1/4 mile away, mostly for places to
put in.
Waterproofness is, of course, a requirement, so that narrows the
gazillion choices quite a bit. To narrow them quite a bit more, you
must decide on [1] magification and [2] compact vs traditional.
The meaning of magnification, for example, 7 power (written 7x), is
pretty self explanatory. More magnification generally costs more, but
isn't neccessarily a good thng. While it does let you see more detail,
it also narrows your field of view, other things equal. Lower
magnification allows more context in one view (less sweeping back and
forth over a beach), more unsteadiness of tired arms, more bobbing by
your yak, and allows you to follow moving birds and deer more easily.
In addition to how much the binoculars magnify the image,
magnification is the ratio of the front lenses' diameter to the rear
lenses' diameter. Compact 7-powers, for example, have that 7-to-1
ratio between a pair of smaller lenses, and traditional 7-powers have
it between a pair of bigger lenses, often a 35 mm front lense and a 5
mm rear lense.
So, why do they make both types? Wouldn't everyone prefer the smaller,
cheaper compacts? Informed buyers get traditionals, and deal with the
extra bulk, weight, and cost, because of the larger rear lenses (5 mm
in the example above). While compacts' rear lenses are a big as your
pupil can use in full daylight (maybe 2.5 or 3 mm), around dusk and
dawn your pupil gets bigger to allow in more light. A compact's rear
lense can't deliver anymore light, but a traditional's larger rear
lense can. This is sometimes called "light gathering," but would be
better termed "light delivery."
Another feature, independent of magnifcation and compact vs
traditional, is angle of view. My compacts have a 7.5-degree angle. I
seem to recall that other models may go as low a 6-degrees. A wider
angle of view offsets the shortcomings of high magnification mentioed
above. It is a good thing and worth a few extra bucks to me.
When the opportunity presents itself, have a look through other
people's binoc in the setting you will use yours. Doing so will bring
some of the ideas above down to earth.
My choice? Compact, 8x (24 mm front, 3 mm rear), 7.5 degree angle.
YMMV.
-- Jeff
ORBS - Outdoor Recreation Buyers and Sellers
http://home.pacbell.net/orbs
The Web's biggest, busiest collection of free outdoor classifieds
You shouldn't go for bigger than 7-8x. More magnification will
exaggeratly amplify the boat movement and blurr the image. Look for
something light enough that you can handle easily, otherwise, you'll add
vibrations on top of the boat movement.
I am personnaly very happy with a pair of Bushnell Trophy 8x32 (don't be
abused by the inferior (and cheaper) 7x21, they're a whole different
construction). They're reasonably light, have excellent optical quality
and are waterproof (I accidentally swam with them). I keep them under
the deck bungies. I added a layer of Ensolite (blue) foam about 40 cm x
4 cm on each side of the carrying strap and wrapped this in a light
nylon fabric to make them float (it's also more comfortable on my neck)
- such carrying straps are also readily available from West Marine and
other outdoors store.
--
Luc Le Blanc
Montreal
> I am looking for advice concerning the best size, features, make and model
> of binoculars for sea kayaking. Also, people's ideas on how to store 'em.
> Most "nautical" binoculars seem too large to wear around your neck all the
> time, although I can see how you might store them in a deck mounted pack.
>
> Any thoughts about how other people solve this?
If you get any good suggestions via email please forward them my way. I
have a couple of pairs of 'nocs, but none are sea worthy. I hesitate to
spend the big bucks on a "waterproof" pair since I've heard they aren't
always as waterproof as the name suggests.
Thanks for your time,
--
Chip G. (N1MIE)
- Technical Advisor to TRAUG
- Co-Chairman Technical Committee for NIDCS
<mailto:_ch...@ct2.nai.net> (remove "_" from urls)
<http://nw3.nai.net/~_chip_/>
Try the marine stores or catalogs. There's lots of stuff advertised there.
I personally think it's too tuff to really see anything while bobbing up
and down. My arms usually get tired after 30 seconds or so. I would think
you're more likely to find something water resistant, rather than water
proof at a reasonable price. Ya don't plan on diving with them do ya?
Price ranges can be from $100 to $3500.
> > > I am looking for advice concerning the best size, features, make and
> model
> > > of binoculars for sea kayaking. Also, people's ideas on how to store
> 'em.
> > > Most "nautical" binoculars seem too large to wear around your neck all
> the
> > > time, although I can see how you might store them in a deck mounted
> pack.
I have a pair of the big Tasco 7x50s which I keep in a deck bag- no need to
wear 'em around your neck. I also keep them lashed to the boat ;-) They're
around $135, and can be had with built in compass for a few bucks more. They're
very sharp and contrasty for the $$$. These are the black ones, BTW, not the
yellow "armored" ones which are cheaper and not nearly as waterproof.
Mini binos have one big problem- they're not terribly good in dim light. Not
enough light gathering aperature. You want at least a 6mm effective pupil, and
perhaps 7mm. (Effective pupil = aperture/magnification) I wouldn't go smaller
than 7x35 or 6x30. The 6x30 Steiners are very nice, especially the ones with
the compass.
--
Michael Edelman http://www.mich.com/~mje
Telescope guide: http://www.mich.com/~mje/scope.html
Folding Kayaks: http://www.mich.com/~mje/kayak.html
Airguns: http://www.mich.com/~mje/airguns.html