Tricks for stretching hose ends?
Ryan H Neve
200 PSI) over a barb fitting one size to large.
I've tried shaving the hose's entry then heating with a small propane
torch which almost works. Does anyone have any better ideas (lubricant,
stretching?). I hate to put a 5/8 to 3/4" adapter in line.
Peggie Hall/The Hall Group
size--3/4" barbed by 1/2" threaded. But that would be TOO simple. :-)
Warm the hose with blow dryer...it'll take a while to soften it enough
to do any good--in fact, you'll have to over-soften it a little, so be
patient...you don't want to melt it! Then smear the inside of the hose
and the outside of the barb with dish soap. It should slide on with some
effort.
Why did you buy hose a size too small?
> I hate to put a 5/8 to 3/4" adapter in line.
Why? Freshwater systems--and since you bought hot water hose, I assume
that's where it's going--are all spec'd to use 3/4" ID hose. All the
connections in the whole system are 3/4", which means that unless you're
adding something and spec'd a 5/8" ID hose for it, you're gonna have t
he same problem connecting the other end that you're having connecting
this end.
Peggie
Ryan H Neve
The hose is actually from a 3/4" vented loop to the 5/8" fitting on the heat
exchanger portion of a new Isotherm water heater. The vented loop was
between the engine thermostat and the exhaust elbow (raw water cooled
engine). The water heater had 1/2" threads into which I screwed barbs for
5/8" ID hose. Most of the cooling system is 5/8" ID, but on either side of
the vented loop, it was 3/4" ID. I could get a new 5/8" vented loop, but
that, as you said, would be too simple.
Can this hose really melt at blow dryer temperatures. A propane torch (on
very low) didn't do much but make it hot after about 20 seconds.
On the hot water side I used 1/2" OD copper tube which will probably be a
PITA
PS: after all this, the effects of hot raw water on the tank's contents will
probably be minimal.
Alisdair Gurney
"Peggie Hall/The Hall Group" <peg...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:3A284B66...@bellsouth.net...
> The simplest thing to do would be to replace the fitting with the right
> size--3/4" barbed by 1/2" threaded. But that would be TOO simple. :-)
>
> Warm the hose with blow dryer...it'll take a while to soften it enough
> to do any good--in fact, you'll have to over-soften it a little, so be
> patient...you don't want to melt it! Then smear the inside of the hose
> and the outside of the barb with dish soap. It should slide on with some
> effort.
>
I've also successfully softened the end of plastic hose in
boiling water. For rubber hose, in extremis I've used a screwdriver
heated over the cooker (alcohol stove, but that's another thread ;-)
and used it internally to flare the top 3 inches or so. The hoses
need to be clamped with jubilee clips or they are likely to pop
off, and they are also prone to failing where they are under most stress.
Alisdair
Peggie Hall/The Hall Group
>
> The hose is actually from a 3/4" vented loop to the 5/8" fitting on the heat
> exchanger portion of a new Isotherm water heater.
Ok...now it makes sense. I'd go with the inline reducer, if I were you.
there's no reason not to, and it will be a much more reliable connection
than doing whatever it takes to "shoehorn a size 8 foot into a size 6
shoe."
> I could get a new 5/8" vented loop, but
> that, as you said, would be too simple.
Maybe not...I've never seen a 5/8" vented loop...only 3/4", 1.5", and
larger.
>
> Can this hose really melt at blow dryer temperatures. A propane torch (on
> very low) didn't do much but make it hot after about 20 seconds.
I prob'ly should have said "burn" instead of melt. Unlike flexible
PVC--which softens up nicely, rubber hose doesn't stretch much...but if
you can succeed in getting it hot enough without scorching it (which is
why I recommend a blow dryer over a heat gun or propane torch), you
should be able to make it go onto the barb.
However, IMHO, you'll save yourself a lot of aggrevation if you just go
with the inline reducer!
Peggie
> On the hot water side I used 1/2" OD copper tube which will probably be a
> PITA
>
> PS: after all this, the effects of hot raw water on the tank's contents will
> probably be minimal.
>
> Peggie Hall/The Hall Group wrote:
>
> > The simplest thing to do would be to replace the fitting with the right
> > size--3/4" barbed by 1/2" threaded. But that would be TOO simple. :-)
> >
> > Warm the hose with blow dryer...it'll take a while to soften it enough
> > to do any good--in fact, you'll have to over-soften it a little, so be
> > patient...you don't want to melt it! Then smear the inside of the hose
> > and the outside of the barb with dish soap. It should slide on with some
> > effort.
> >
Peggie Hall/The Hall Group
Peggie
paul1martin
Ryan H Neve <ryan...@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> The hose is actually from a 3/4" vented loop to the 5/8" fitting on
the heat
> between the engine thermostat and the exhaust elbow (raw water cooled
> engine). The water heater had 1/2" threads into which I screwed barbs
for
> 5/8" ID hose. Most of the cooling system is 5/8" ID, but on either
side of
but
> that, as you said, would be too simple.
>
(on
> very low) didn't do much but make it hot after about 20 seconds.
>
be a
> PITA
>
> PS: after all this, the effects of hot raw water on the tank's
contents will
> probably be minimal.
>
> Peggie Hall/The Hall Group wrote:
>
> > The simplest thing to do would be to replace the fitting with the
right
> > size--3/4" barbed by 1/2" threaded. But that would be TOO simple.
Hmmm...Maybe you'd be better off using 3/4" hose and either clamping it
down hard on the 5/8 fitting or put a short piece of 5/8 hose(about 1")
over the 5/8 barb and then the 3/4 over the built up result. In any
case I hope the failure of the hose connection isn't 'real'
important....like maybe pumping the engine exhaust cooling water into
the bilge while the exhaust runs dry.
warm seas and dry decks to ya,
pm
From Mark Twain:
"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed
by the things you did not do than by the things you did do.
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Ryan H Neve
it's made of gray plastic. Do you know to what temperature this stuff is rated to?
Do I need to buy a brass reducer?
I don't think that the raw water coming off of the engine will be too hot.
-Ryan
Peggie Hall/The Hall Group wrote:
Peggie Hall/The Hall Group
>
> I looked through the spare parts and just happen to have the correct reducer, only
> it's made of gray plastic.
It's fine...it's PVC, and can stand up to hot water just fine. Use it.
Peggie
GTrip
"Ryan H Neve" <ryan...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:3A281A6B...@mindspring.com...
> I need to get a piece of 5/8" ID black hot water hose (Goodyear horizon
> 200 PSI) over a barb fitting one size to large.
> I've tried shaving the hose's entry then heating with a small propane
> torch which almost works. Does anyone have any better ideas (lubricant,
>
I worked in an industrial hardware store many (many) years ago. Assembling
hoses was part of the job. We used to keep a bucket of anti-freeze on the
woodstove in the winter and would dip the hose end in this for about five
minutes then hammer the fitting in place.The very high temperature and
natural slickness of the antifreeze usually did the trick. Mostly dealt
with hoses three inch diameter and up, but this may help.
gtrip1
P.C.
Hope this can be rewarded as "tip of the
day".
There are a mixture of acetone and some
poison stuff with cloride in, that if you
place soft plastic in it for halve an hour,
will make the plastic "grow" while getting
soaked in the material itself ; if you wonder
how "this" plastic tube was placed all over a
handle, that's the way it was done. ------ I
newer had trouble attaching inch tube on
water pumps. Heat used in emergency as lot af
other mix with the acetone will work.
best regards
P.C.
GTrip skrev i meddelelsen
<90gtkf$pn1$1...@mlik.planetcomm.net>...
Keith
use it for pressure hose though... might chemically attack it and weaken
it.
--
__________________
Keith
One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor.
Peggie Hall/The Hall Group
holding tank or an underwater through-hull.
Peggie
RC SAILS
(with great guidance from Peggy, thank you very much!) was that hoses with
single direction spiral-wound reinforcement can by turned onto barb (or other)
fittings in one direction, but will tighten and become impossible in the other
direction. More importantly, removing these hoses is easy if you try rotating
the hose (or disconnected fitting) in the correct direction. Operates on the
Chinese Finger Puzzle principle...
I struggled with one hose for several minutes after test-fitting it, before
removing it prior to final installation. My natural inclination was to try and
remove the fitting by turning it in the same rotation as the reinforcing coil,
much like unscrewing any threaded object. This action succeeded in doing
nothing more than contracting the hose even more tightly onto the fitting.
Only by resisting my natural impulse and rotating the fitting off in the other
direction was I able to remove it. I tried this several times on other
sections of hose and matching barb fittings and found it worked well to help
expand the hose somewhat and eliminated the need for heating or lubricants,
which I had previously used.
Who'd a thunk it?