Yanmar hand cranking
jean somerhausen
>
> In article <01bee9ae$0e277200$16ed...@schwartz.clarityconnect.com>,
> "Steve Schwartz" <ssch...@clarityconnect.com> wrote:
> > Hand cranking
> >
> > We have a Hunter 30T '93 with a Yanmar 2GM20F engine. According to the
> > manual that came with the boat this engine can be hand cranked but I
> > haven't a clue about how to do it. Has anyone tried it? What do you
> do?
> > Seems like hand cranking would be a good backup in case the battery
> dies.
> >
> > Also I can't find any zincs on/in the engine yet the book says it has
> two.
> > Does anybody know about zincs on these engines?
> >
> I have never been able to hand crank mine. Two guys and 200 cranks
> later, no luck. I think for it to work, the cranking system would have
> to be in very goo and lubricated condition. Mine has a rusty chain drive
> and I did not have a grease gun to lube the grease fitting with.
>
> My neighbor has a 2cyl volvo about the same size and swears he has
> suceeded.
>
> The zincs should be pencil zincs and they attached to a bolt (the head
> is all you will see). I have one at the top of the freshwater cooling
> system to the right (facing motor) of the water fill cap.
>
> If you find a second one, let me know.
>
> mi...@usin.com
> >
>
> --
> Michael Lackey mi...@usin.com
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Yes, the old Volvo MD2B had two decompression levers, one on each
cylinder and it was quite easy to start it by hand as it had a very
heavy flywheel (lots of inertia), so you cranked to a good speed and
then threw back one of the levers and it would start on one cylinder, at
which point you threw back the second lever. Unfortunately, my MD7A has
got only one lever for the two cylinders, so it's more difficult and as
far as the Yanmar goes, I had the 2QM15 on one boat and never could
start it because the cranking was counterclockwise...
john
Steve Schwartz
mi...@usin.com
"Steve Schwartz" <ssch...@clarityconnect.com> wrote:
alan
In theory, you open the compression release on both cylinders, crank the
enginer using the hand crank in the tool kit (if you don't have it, you
can probably order one from http://bsd.torresen.com/yanmar/ ), then flip
one of the compression release levers back and the engine should start.
In practice, I've never been able to crank fast enough to make it work,
and closing the compression release stops the engine dead.
One zinc is on the side of the engine block (starbord, if memory serves
me correctly) and one on the side of the head.
Hope this helps,
Alan
Lauri Tarkkonen
>Hand cranking
>We have a Hunter 30T '93 with a Yanmar 2GM20F engine. According to the
>manual that came with the boat this engine can be hand cranked but I
>haven't a clue about how to do it. Has anyone tried it? What do you do?
>Seems like hand cranking would be a good backup in case the battery dies.
>Also I can't find any zincs on/in the engine yet the book says it has two.
>Does anybody know about zincs on these engines?
I believe that the Yanmar 2GM20 can be handcranked and has two zincs,
at least my old engine could be handcranked and I changed some zincs
in it during the years, but the one with F in freshwatercooled and
the belt for the alternator and waterpump obstruct the handcranking
head and I do not believe you need zincs in the system circulating
only glygol.
- Lauri Tarkkonen
Timbs
Yanmar 2 GM. The compression ratios on modern diesels is so high and the
flywheel is relatively so light, that when even one of the compression
levers is closed, the engine stops dead. I have tried many times, as have
friends and colleagues, but no one has succeeded. However, I am told that
if the battery is very low, it is possible to help the engine with the
cranking handle but I have not tried it.
There are two anodes in the engine, one for the block and one for the head.
You might have difficulty recognising them as such, as the anodes are
screwed into the face of large "bolts" which are then screwed into the
engine. A 24mm spanner (I think)is what I use to shift these fairly big
bolts. The block one is on the starboard side near the centre of the block.
The head one is on the aft end of the head.
Hope this helps
Joe
Steve Schwartz wrote in message
<01bee9ae$0e277200$16ed...@schwartz.clarityconnect.com>...
Anders Svensson
first and foremost. Then, it is a question of turning the engine as rapidly as
possible and letting go of the compression lever at the right time. Usually, the
inertia from the rotating engine parts is waht turns the engine over the
compression point, not the turning of the handle, however snappy. This is quite
different from the way one starts a gasoline engine.
Another trick is to use the decompression levers in conjunction with a weak
battery. By releasing one of them, it is often possible to start the engine with
very little juice left in the battery.
Anders
alan skrev:
> Hi Steve,
>
> In theory, you open the compression release on both cylinders, crank the
> enginer using the hand crank in the tool kit (if you don't have it, you
> can probably order one from http://bsd.torresen.com/yanmar/ ), then flip
> one of the compression release levers back and the engine should start.
> In practice, I've never been able to crank fast enough to make it work,
> and closing the compression release stops the engine dead.
>
> One zinc is on the side of the engine block (starbord, if memory serves
> me correctly) and one on the side of the head.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Alan
>
> Steve Schwartz wrote:
> >
> > Hand cranking
> >
> > We have a Hunter 30T '93 with a Yanmar 2GM20F engine. According to the
> > manual that came with the boat this engine can be hand cranked but I
> > haven't a clue about how to do it. Has anyone tried it? What do you do?
> > Seems like hand cranking would be a good backup in case the battery dies.
> >
> > Also I can't find any zincs on/in the engine yet the book says it has two.
> > Does anybody know about zincs on these engines?
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
Anders Svensson
Anders.-.Ei...@swipnet.se
-----------------------------------------------------------
OptoEngr
with the propellor engaged. The torque from the prop provided enough
assistance to make it possible.
I once met a fellow who had fashioned a special long starting crank who said
he could hand start his Yanmar with it. The crank handle was big enough for
both hands, and the shank extended out to where he had room to swing the
handle without breaking his back. I did not witness his reported success.
Apart from these instances, every other attempt I know of was an abject
failure. For our voyages, I always maintain one battery at full charge for
engine starting alone. It doesn't have to be a very big battery.
Paul Mathews
Anders Svensson wrote in message <37BB19FB...@swipnet.se>...
Lauri Tarkkonen
>To be able to hand start aany engine, there has to be room to swing the handle,
>first and foremost. Then, it is a question of turning the engine as rapidly as
>possible and letting go of the compression lever at the right time. Usually, the
>inertia from the rotating engine parts is waht turns the engine over the
>compression point, not the turning of the handle, however snappy. This is quite
>different from the way one starts a gasoline engine.
There must be a provision to attach the handle to the axis to rotate the
engine. The freswater cooled two cylinder Yanmar does not have it. The
seawater cooled has.
- Lauri Tarkkonen
Tony Persson
>
> Hand cranking
>
> We have a Hunter 30T '93 with a Yanmar 2GM20F engine. According to the
> manual that came with the boat this engine can be hand cranked but I
> haven't a clue about how to do it. Has anyone tried it? What do you do?
> Seems like hand cranking would be a good backup in case the battery dies.
>
> Also I can't find any zincs on/in the engine yet the book says it has two.
> Does anybody know about zincs on these engines?
the engine block. It is a 24mm bolt so it should be very easy to locate.
The second one is on the "back" of the engine above the transmission
into the "heat exchangeer". Same size of the bolt. The zinc is then
attached to the interio of the bolt. My problem was to get the bolt of.
Good luck
Rgds Tony
À
occasions. Release the compression levers on each cylinder ( they are linked
on my engine) crank like mad and then re-engage the compression. The engine
should fire if you have developed enough momentum. If you re-compress only
one cylinder , it may be easier. The method mentioned in several posts about
releasing compression to use a low battery works also.
Harrison
Steve Schwartz <ssch...@clarityconnect.com> wrote in message
news:01bee9ae$0e277200$16ed...@schwartz.clarityconnect.com...
Thomas Hood
real b*tch! Knuckle buster for sure, and requires a lot of brute
strength. It's a 2 person job on the J though. One to hold the
compression release and one to crank.
Thomas "Not so fond memories" Hood
th...@ifn.com
Keith
loaded device to hand crank an engine. Don't know much about it, but you
could probably find it in deja news archives. Supposedly it attached to
the engine and you cranked the big spring up, then released it and it
spun the engine enough to start it.
WBussey
it will crank a six-cyjinder, six-liter diesel engine. See "Upgrading the
Cruising Sailboat" buy Daniel Spurr for a picture of the unit.
WCB
Anders Svensson
fire pumps and emergency generators.
The one backside with them is that they crank very vigorously, but only for a
short period. If the engine is in good shape and the preheat plugs works, fine.
In cold weather, when you have to "churn" the engine (shudder...) to make it hot
enough to start (or - shudder even more - use ether...) they are less useful.
They also need the engine to have a a second starter mount flange if they are to
be a backup to a ordinary electrical starter. Rather few engines have two starter
mounts so it might be one or the other, not both.
WBussey skrev:
--
Lauri Tarkkonen
>Wonderful devices these, used for such diverse applications as life boat engines,
>fire pumps and emergency generators.
>The one backside with them is that they crank very vigorously, but only for a
>short period. If the engine is in good shape and the preheat plugs works, fine.
>In cold weather, when you have to "churn" the engine (shudder...) to make it hot
>enough to start (or - shudder even more - use ether...) they are less useful.
>They also need the engine to have a a second starter mount flange if they are to
>be a backup to a ordinary electrical starter. Rather few engines have two starter
>mounts so it might be one or the other, not both.
AS the original question was about the fresh water cooled two cylinder
Yanrmar it will propably have more trouble as the generator belt is
in a way and the end of the shaft for the crank is covered. In the
seawater cooled one it might work after you fix it somehow to the
engine.
- Lauri Tarkkonen
Anders Svensson
***
But your comment makes me visualise a "electric winder" a la Formula One engine starters, but in a
marine environment. The DIY application would be a startermotor, a long and wide T-bar handle and
a crank sprocket... Whether it will rotate the handler or the engine is a open question... Perhaps
a planetary gearbox ned to be added.
This gadget would have several uses aside from a "diesel cranker" - they could also be used for
winching, anchor hauling and other chores.
Not completely serious, but for the first part : -)
Anders
Lauri Tarkkonen skrev:
--
debett...@home.com
necessary, and I had to take off the compression. I have also replaced
the zincs in the front and rear (2). I have a manual for all this which
is available from Yanmar.
Geoff Blake
: Somebody mentioned here awhile back that there was some sort of spring
: loaded device to hand crank an engine. Don't know much about it, but you
: could probably find it in deja news archives. Supposedly it attached to
: the engine and you cranked the big spring up, then released it and it
: spun the engine enough to start it.
Yep that's it. Made (in the UK) by part of the Lucas group, they are hand
wound and are triggered by a hand trip. They will start diesels up to
something like 200hp and at very low temperatures (I have seen a Perkins V8
started first go at -40 deg). It fits in place of a standard starter but you
need access to the side of the engine to crank the starter.
Geoff
--
Geoff Blake geoff(at)palaemon.demon.co.uk linux 2.0.36
Chelmsford g8...@g8gnz.ampr.org sparc - i586
Please, only use the .ampr.org address if you know what you are doing
Intel create faster processors - Microsoft create slower processes
gpo...@my-deja.com
cranked and it does not have zincs because it metals in contact with
salt water are nickle chrome plated. Is he right?
Jerry Poore
S/V Pelleas