Help/paint type for wood boat ???
Boogie
paintjob.
what kinda paint would you use on it ?
the sides and top paint is diff from the bottom paint right ?
someone tell me some brands or type of paint they like plz .
i can spray emerron on cars but dont have a clue as to what kinda
paint to use on a woodboat
thANKS
dale
Evan Gatehouse & Diane Selkirk
Boogie <bo...@dtgnet.com> wrote in message
news:3b3fd2c9...@news.dtgnet.com...
Assuming this ain't a troll:
Topsides (hull above waterline and deck)
If this is a old style traditional constructed boat (horizontal planks
attached to ribs), then your best bet is an oil based paint like Interlux
Brightsides or Petit Easypoxy. These are basically an oil paint with a lot
of additives to aid in brushing. They can also be sprayed. Gloss is good
for a few years before you would think about repainting. In Florida or
California, the 'gloss' life is perhaps 2 years; in Maine it's probably 5
years!
2 part paints like Imron or Awlgrip tend to crack because these old boats
swell and change shape all the time.
If the boat is a 'cold molded' or plywood covered with glass construction
you can use any type of paint you'd like, including Imron, because the
surface is stable and won't change shape.
For the hull under the waterline you need "bottom paint" - there are lots of
types of these. 2 basic types are modified epoxy and ablative. The epoxy
types need sanding every year before reapplying new paint. The ablative
paint just need a pressure wash and may last 2 or more years depending on
how many coats of paint you use.
Check out www.westmarine.com - they sell marine paints and they also have
lots of good advice - see their "West Advisor" pages
--
Evan Gatehouse
LaBomba182
>From: bo...@dtgnet.com (Boogie)
I know folks who have used both latex and oil based house paints with very good
results. It`s not like the paint knows whether it`s on a water front house or a
boat on the water.
Capt. Bill
Dante Hicks
"LaBomba182" <labom...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010702004504...@ng-cd1.aol.com...
Jeff
"Boogie" <bo...@dtgnet.com> wrote in message
> hello, i just bought a 30' WOOD cabincruiser and it needs a
> paintjob.
Not surprised. Most wooden boats sit around, neglected, before being
resurrected. Is the wood solid, ie--no rot anywhere? If there is rot,
you'll need to replace the wood before you paint. Painting over rot is no
solution to anything, and an invitation to disaster.
> what kinda paint would you use on it ?
> the sides and top paint is diff from the bottom paint right ?
Assuming you correctly understand the terminology you've used, YES, they are
radically different paints. Bottom paint is primarily an antifouling paint,
utilizing copper as a biocidal additive. There are many of these, but
wooden boats do well with ablative paints, such as Interlux Micron. Be sure
to scrape any old bottom paint off if it is not adhering well to the wood.
Also remember that when this boat goes into the water--I'm assuming it has a
planked hull, not a cold-molded, fiberglassed bottom--it will need some time
to swell and seal itself before it quits leaking and taking on water. So
don't attempt to paint over the seams between planks. Just paint the
planks.
Topside paints (for the hull sides) and paint for the superstructure (the
cabin sides, etc.) can be the same. For ease of application, I like simple
oil-based alkyd enamels, such as Interlux Premium Yacht Enamel or Epifanes
Yacht Enamel. They are easy to apply, self-level well, and give a great
gloss with minimal fuss. For a bit more lifespan, you can use one-part
urethane-based alkyd resin paints, such as Interlux Brightsides or Epifanes
Mono-urethane, for example. These are almost as easy to apply with good
results as the yacht enamels, but require more work if they need to be
touched up or removed. Two-part linear urethanes, such as U.S Paint's
Awlgrip, Dupont's Imron, Interlux's Interthane, or Epifanes Poly-urethane,
are the most difficult to apply, but give the best results in terms of
longevity if the substrate being painted is stable. Since wood is normally
not a stable substrate, I'd avoid these. They are difficult to touch up
and, as I'm sure you know, more difficult to apply, not to mention dangerous
if the fumes are inhaled. If I were doing a wooden boat, I'd probably use
the oil-based enamels or the one-part urethanes. I've had wonderful results
painting wood with oil-based enamels, specifically Interlux Premium Yacht
enamel. Great stuff. While I'm not familiar with Z-Spar's and Woolsey's
paint lines, they, too, make excellent paints in all the above
classifications. Do some reading in the West Marine catalog for information
on their paints.
> someone tell me some brands or type of paint they like plz .
See above.
> i can spray emerron on cars but dont have a clue as to what kinda
> paint to use on a woodboat
Hope the above has helped. Spraying any of the above paints is not a bad
idea, especially if you have some experience. HVLP spraying seems to be the
way to go, especially if you're spraying outside and have other boats
around, whose owners would rather you not get overspray on their precious
babies. If you choose to brush, avoid the two-part liner urethanes, such as
Imron. While they can be rolled and tipped out, they don't look anything
like a spray job.
One further point: some of the boat may have brightwork--exposed wood,
unpainted--and on these areas you will want to use an oil-based or urethane
resin varnish. Long oil marine varnishes are easiest to use and touch up,
but both work well. Interlux, Z-Spar, Epifanes all make great varnish
products.
Jeff
Boogie
THANK YOU JEFF,
the boat is wood planked and is at my house on a custom trl. so
overspray is not a prob.I will spray the sides and deck,, (( looks
alot better that rolled or brush))
you like Interlux Premium Yacht enamel. how much is a gallon
of
that roughly ????? can you spray it ?
i have done cars with dupont's emeron its flexable but i dont know
how
it would hold up getting walked on .....and it is a bit spendy
also...
what kinda bottom anti fouling paint would you get ? a roll or brush
on paint for the bottom ...not real costly but effective .
thanks again and email me direct at bo...@dtgnet.com if you like
send a picture of your boat and places you like to boat at .......
regards
dale
Rosalie B.
bo...@dtgnet.com (Boogie) wrote:
grandma Rosalie
Boogie
thanks ROSALIE B> On Mon, 02 Jul 2001 15:25:48 -0400, Rosalie B.
Doug Dotson
much THE preferred topside paint up until Awl-Grip appeared
on the scene. At least this was my inpression from a guy I know
that runs a boat maintenance business.
Doug
Jeff
"Boogie" <bo...@dtgnet.com> wrote in message
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2001 01:53:46 GMT, bo...@dtgnet.com (Boogie) wrote:
> THANK YOU JEFF,
> the boat is wood planked and is at my house on a custom trl. so
> overspray is not a prob.I will spray the sides and deck,, (( looks
> alot better that rolled or brush))
> you like Interlux Premium Yacht enamel. how much is a gallon
> of
> that roughly ?????
West Marine has it for $55 to $60 per gallon, depending upon color and
gloss. Shop around, tho--better prices can be had.
>can you spray it ?
Absolutely. It sprays easily and with great results. Be sure to use the
thinner the paint company recommends for spraying.
> i have done cars with dupont's emeron its flexable but i dont know
> how
> it would hold up getting walked on .....and it is a bit spendy
> also...
Dupont's Imron is costly, and I would be worried about using it over wood.
I know that people have used Awlgrip (US Paint) over wood with great
results, but I just don't know that much about Imron.
> what kinda bottom anti fouling paint would you get ? a roll or brush
> on paint for the bottom ...not real costly but effective .
Question: do you plan to keep the boat on a trailer or in the water? If it
will be on the trailer, most modified epoxies (eg--Interlux Ultra or
Ultra-Kote, Pettit Trinidad) won't work well. They need to be in the water
within 60 days of application, and once removed and allowed to dry out,
their effectiveness is reduced substantially. Ablative paints would be best
for your boat in that case. They ablate (wear away with time and water
passage) slowly and can be dried out without damaging their effectiveness.
I used West Marine's CPP this year--so far so good. Another alternative is
VC-17m, a teflon-based paint which works okay on wood bottoms. And it won't
lose effectiveness when dried out either. If the boat is going to stay in
the water, any old bottom paint will work. Since your boat is a 30' cabin
cruiser, I would expect that you plan to keep it in the water all season
long. For that application, West Marine's Bottom Shield is a less-expensive
alternative. On the further issue of cost, ablatives are the most expensive
bottom paints, but modified epoxies simply won't work if you haul your boat
periodically. There are some cheaper, sloughing bottom paints available,
but they ususally only last one season and very soft--not really suitable
for trailering. As to application, most bottom paints are rolled on with
brush application in the areas a roller can't access. It's easy, but messy
and time-consuming. I really hate bottom painting.
Jeff
Boogie
hard to scratch ..i just dont know for sure how it will adhere or
stick to WOOD....the boats your talking about are prob fiberglass..
i know some of the raceboats use imeron paint it is a great paint for
a car too ...but i would hate to spend that kinda cash $100 per
gallon and not have it stick to my wood :))
regards
dale
On Mon, 02 Jul 2001 15:56:13 -0400, Doug Dotson <ddo...@digidata.com>
wrote:
Boogie
Awlgrip (US Paint) gets brittle and cracks .......i will skip that
kind or brand
On Mon, 2 Jul 2001 15:16:26 -0500, "Jeff" <myst...@NSmindspring.com>
wrote:
Dan
> emeron by dupont is a aircraft paint
AAAAAGH!!! In this thread, we have seen:
Immeron
emeron
Emron
Is Imron REALLY that difficult to spell?
dan
--
Anyone who considers protocol unimportant has never dealt with a cat.
Rosalie B.
>Boogie <bo...@dtgnet.com> gave me something I can root to:
>
>> emeron by dupont is a aircraft paint
>
>AAAAAGH!!! In this thread, we have seen:
>
>Immeron
>emeron
>Emron
>
>Is Imron REALLY that difficult to spell?
It is if you don't know how to spell it?
>
>dan
grandma Rosalie
Jeff
"Doug Dotson" <ddo...@digidata.com> wrote in message
> I believe Imron (or Emron, I've only heard it spoken) was pretty
> much THE preferred topside paint up until Awl-Grip appeared
> on the scene. At least this was my inpression from a guy I know
> that runs a boat maintenance business.
Dupont Imron was primarily an aircraft paint, along with US Paint's
Alumigrip, sister to Awlgrip. And you are correct--it has been used as a
topside paint. Doesn't Hatteras use it in lieu of gelcoat?
Jeff
Jeff
"Boogie" <bo...@dtgnet.com> wrote in message
> during my reseach i have found mentioned more than afew times that
> Awlgrip (US Paint) gets brittle and cracks .......i will skip that
> kind or brand
Much as I hate to admit it, the Awlgrip on our boat is cracking and chipping
in a few spots. Disappointing. Not sure I'd use it again. Of course
surface prep could have something to do with it. We bought the boat already
painted.
Jeff
HLAviation
>much THE preferred topside paint up until Awl-Grip appeared
>on the scene. At least this was my inpression from a guy I know
>that runs a boat maintenance business.
>
>Doug
Imron and other linear polyurethanes (Awl Grip, Sterling...) are good paints
over metal, glass or epoxy composites, but perform poorly in my experience on
raw wood. I've used it before and always had problems down the road with
cracking and blistering. I prefer Epiphanes or Interlux enamels. With the
Interlux, I also use the 333 brushing liquid (also use it with my build coats
of varnish) and get a very nice result.
http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/
Doug Dotson
conditions. The folks I know around that paint boats use
AwlGrip pretty much exclusively. I don't have any real
long term anecdotal evidence but I know of several boats
in my marina that were AwlGripped maybe 6 or 7 years
ago and still look fine. I may be having my boat's topsides
painted next year so this information is valuable to me as
well.
Thanks,
Doug
Doug Dotson
about Cimmeron? Sorry that was a musical group I think :)
Doug Dotson
peal and apply a barrier layer. At the time Vinyl Ester was
the in thing but at the time I could not afford to have it done
by a pro. I looked at doing it myself but first, Vinyl Ester is
very caustic and second, the working life is something like
10 minutes. The local boat yard even gave up on rolling
it on and always sprays it which is still a challenge they tell
me. I decided on Interlux Interprotect. Why, because it
was something that I could successfully apply with my
level of skill and timetable. The guy at the local boatyard
said that they had replaced many Interprotect bottoms
because they fail so often. I talked with a friend who did
his botton six years prior and was showing no signs of
trouble. The secret? Prep, prep, prep, and following the
the directions to the letter! If it says apply the next coat
in 1.5 hours, do it! Not 2 hours not 1 hour. If at says
"if you wait more than 1.5 hours, then you have to wait
a day and then sand", then that is what has to be done,
period. If it says wipe down prior to starting with
Interlux 333 then that's what it means, acetone won't
work just because that is what you happen to have
on hand. I guess it all boils down to RTFM as we
say in the computer biz :)
We are intending on preping the boat ourselves and then
have a friend shoot the boat (he's a professional boat
shooter). That way we will know it is prepped properly
to the best of our ability. If the paint fails we know where
to put the blame.
Doug
pm
>during my reseach i have found mentioned more than afew times that
>Awlgrip (US Paint) gets brittle and cracks .......i will skip that
>kind or brand
>
Awl-Grip does not get brittle or crack. But as others here have pointed out,
prep is everything, or at least 95 percent of a successful paint job.
I doubt if Hinckley Yachts would use Awl-grip if it were not one of the very
best paints for boats.
pm
Jere Lull
Imron (gosh, now you've got me looking back for the spelling) is used on FABRIC
airplanes because it's the most durable and can stand the constant exposure and
flexing. I believe that Awlgrip is essentially the same type of paint.
--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux -- '73 Tanzer 28 #4 -- out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's Pics & Specs: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI Vacation trip FAQ (250+ Annotated pics):
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