Rebedding Stanchions

[rbarn...@aol.com]

During this past sailing season several of our stanchions started to leak
around the bases. We have removed all the stanchions for the winter and
will be reinstalling them in the spring.

We have teak decks on our Panda 34. I would like to have suggestions on
the best bedding compound to use when mounting the stainless steel
stanchion bases on the teak deck.

Thanks in advance

Russ
Robins Nest
Home Page: http://members.aol.com/rbarneveld/home.htm

Russ
Robins Nest
No Particular Harbor

[Tom Shilson]

I would use 3M 5200. My working at 3M has nothing to do with it.
Poke around the stanchions to make sure that there is no soft wood, rot,
or other problem. Also put goop in the bolt holes.

Tom Shilson Boat: s/v Follow Your Bliss
thsh...@mmm.com Chrysler 22
3M Website http://www.mmm.com
Opinions expressed herein are my own and may not represent those of 3M.

In article <19961231153...@ladder01.news.aol.com>

Opinions expressed herein are my own and may not represent those of my employer.

[jktho...@earthlink.com]

Tom Shilson wrote:
>
>
> I would use 3M 5200. My working at 3M has nothing to do with it.
> Poke around the stanchions to make sure that there is no soft wood, rot,
> or other problem. Also put goop in the bolt holes.
>
>

> >During this past sailing season several of our stanchions started to leak
> >around the bases. We have removed all the stanchions for the winter and
> >will be reinstalling them in the spring.
> >
> >We have teak decks on our Panda 34. I would like to have suggestions on
> >the best bedding compound to use when mounting the stainless steel
> >stanchion bases on the teak deck.
> >

the problem with 5200 is that it has very poor adhesion to S/S - there
must be a better product to use. Ordinary cheap silicone seals well to
both S/S and clean gelcoat, but not to teak. I've tried West epoxy on
the teak and silicone seals to the epoxy very well. But still, there
must be something better.

[Richard S. Philbrick]

rbarn...@aol.com wrote:
>
> During this past sailing season several of our stanchions started to leak
> around the bases. We have removed all the stanchions for the winter and
> will be reinstalling them in the spring.
>
> We have teak decks on our Panda 34. I would like to have suggestions on
> the best bedding compound to use when mounting the stainless steel
> stanchion bases on the teak deck.
>

> Thanks in advance
>
> Russ
> Robins Nest
> Home Page: http://members.aol.com/rbarneveld/home.htm
>
> Russ
> Robins Nest
> No Particular Harbor

In my experience, many caulking compounds are used inappropriately. The West Marine
Catalog has an excellent Sealant Usage Chart. The three main types are Polysulfide,
Polyurethane and Silicone. Each has its place aboard and it's good and bad points.
The most misued are the Polyurethanes such as 3M 5200 and Sikaflex. The main thing to
remember about polyurethanes is that they are also adhesives. 5200 is especially
tenacious. If you bed something with 5200 don't expect to EVER take it off. According to
the West Advisor and my experience polyurethane has "good" metal-to-wood qualities.
Also, in my experience (24 years professional marine experience as a captain and in
refitting) the best sealant to use on stanchions is a polysulfide and I have nothing but
praise for 3M's 101. The West Advisor lists polysulfides as "excellent" wood-to-metal
properties. After all, it's polysulfide that's in the seams of a teak deck.
Don't use the polys for bedding plexi or Lexan as it will "melt" it eventually
leading to leaks. This is the only place for silicones which I hate since you always
seem to get it all over everything (as you do with all sealants), you can never clean it
all up and you can't paint over it.
Also, when you reinstall the stanchions don't tighten them down immediately and
squeeze all the goop out. Use plenty of goop, and get it down in the holes, too.
Tighthen the bolts JUST until the stuff starts to ooze out around the edges and STOP!
Go away for several days and let the stuff cure THEN go back and tighten everything up
hard. I can't tell you how many times I've repaired leaks to find that the caulking was
paper thin. By letting the material cure before tightening you are in effect letting the
stuff form a gasket. Tightening everything up tight from the start you squeeze away the
stuff that's going to keep the water out.

[Bill Herrick]

rbarn...@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> We have teak decks on our Panda 34. I would like to have suggestions on
> the best bedding compound to use when mounting the stainless steel
> stanchion bases on the teak deck.
>

If you can get a copy of the December '96 issue of Cruising World there
is an article about stanchions that directly addresses your problem. In
their example they are using Life Calk and following the snug, cure, then
tighten method. Life Calk recommends using a primer for oily woods,
especially teak.

Bill

[jktho...@earthlink.com]

> This is the only place for silicones which I hate since you always
> seem to get it all over everything (as you do with all sealants), you > can never clean it
> all up and you can't paint over it.

silicones come off 100 % somewhat difficultly with tolulene and a cloth
and a rub - it takes a few minutes for the tolulene to soak into the
silicone and soften it.

[John A. Rafes]

TIP: when tightening, don't turn the bolt, turn the nut underneath. Turning the bolt
from above will remove much of the sealant from the hole.

Good Luck!
John