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StarBoard Projects and Fabrication Techniques

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Mic

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Jun 21, 2005, 11:43:50 PM6/21/05
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StarBoard Projects and Fabrication Techniques

http://www.diy-boat.com/Pages/Archives/links/storage.html

"King StarBoard is an extremely versatile material. Strong,
lightweight, never splits or warps and completely maintenance-free,
there are few wooden items on board that can't be replaced with
StarBoard. Working with it is easy, certainly no more difficult than
wood, using wood fabricating techniques and tools."

Humm.....just wondering would starboard work for a bulkhead
replacement??? And if so anything else that should be considered?

TIA

Mic

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Jun 22, 2005, 9:43:08 AM6/22/05
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Glenn Ashmore

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Jun 22, 2005, 8:17:28 AM6/22/05
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Starboard (and other marine polymer board like Seaboard) are not structural.
If the span gets to wide they sag. A bukkhead would be very expensive and
not all that strong. I built a large hatch (18x34") to go between the
forward head and the sail locker out of some 3/4" Starboard. Had to add
ribs to the back side to make it stiff enough.

I used 3M DP-8005 adheasive. Expensive but far better than 5200 and you
only use a tiny bead of it so there is little if any squeeze out.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Mic" <sp...@nospamskddjl.com> wrote in message
news:42b8de56...@news.sprint.ca...

Mic

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Jun 22, 2005, 8:55:45 AM6/22/05
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On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 08:17:28 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" <gash...@cox.net>
wrote:

>Starboard (and other marine polymer board like Seaboard) are not structural.
>If the span gets to wide they sag. A bukkhead would be very expensive and
>not all that strong. I built a large hatch (18x34") to go between the
>forward head and the sail locker out of some 3/4" Starboard. Had to add
>ribs to the back side to make it stiff enough.
>
>I used 3M DP-8005 adheasive. Expensive but far better than 5200 and you
>only use a tiny bead of it so there is little if any squeeze out.

I sort of figured that it would not be sufficient.

What is your opinion of using this material as "backing plates" for
stantions, and through hull seacocks? I have seen it used, but that
doesnt it is preferrable.

Thanks.

Glenn Ashmore

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Jun 22, 2005, 3:15:56 PM6/22/05
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Definitely do not use Starboard for backing plates. It will deform under
the constant pressure and everything will loosen up. 1/4" 5083 aluminum
plate is much better for backing plates and much cheaper too.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Mic" <sp...@nospamskddjl.com> wrote in message

news:42b95e4...@news.sprint.ca...

lbrt...@aol.com

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Jun 22, 2005, 5:12:57 PM6/22/05
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Glenn Ashmore wrote:

> Starboard (and other marine polymer board like Seaboard) are not structural.

They used it to hang the bow CQR<arrrgghhh>.

Jere Lull

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Jun 23, 2005, 12:53:59 AM6/23/05
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In article <42b8de56...@news.sprint.ca>,
sp...@nospamskddjl.com (Mic) wrote:

> Humm.....just wondering would starboard work for a bulkhead
> replacement??? And if so anything else that should be considered?

Don't use starboard for that.

Replaced our main bulkhead last year. Tip that I appreciated getting:
Put the bulkhead up as 3 pieces: the structural member and two face
sheets if you want to clear-coat it the finish.

I've been a cabinet maker and have some tools and tricks to doing such a
job, but I would have had a lot of repair work to do later.

In our case, I used the metric equivalent of 3/4, which is a little
thin, and sheets of 3 mil "veneer". I have worked with real veneer, but
this is so much easier, I'm a convert. The only problem is that I had to
shave a couple of mm off everything that butts against the bulkhead.

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