boatpaint
na...@mindspring.com
time was not satisfactory.
We are considering Sterling two part polyurethane, but are put off by
the expense.
Has anyone had experience using Proline two part polyurethane? Would
you recommend it?
Thanks.
Jere Lull
We have friends in the boat biz (he's a surveyor, she does boat
finishing -- including spraying gel coat) and they strongly prefer
Awlgrip to anything else for longevity. There's a new-ish (a couple of
years old) product: Interthane TopLac??? that their friends like as a
second tier product. (I'm too lazy to look it up; hope someone else will
pipe up.) Goes on fairly standardly, levels nicely, and has a good
gloss. Just doesn't hold up as well.
I used to be a cabinet maker and got pretty good with spraying lacquer,
but am finding there's a fairly steep learning curve when rolling and
tipping Awlgrip. But I'll stick with the removable pieces, then small
areas like the cockpit before I go and do the rest of the deck.
Hopefully, I'll have learned the paint's idiosyncrasies by that time.
I've seen some roll and tipped boats that looked quite good.
BTW, be sure to get your surfaces back down to solid material. The new
paint can only stick as well as the underlying substrate. We did a
quickie job with some monopoxy on the cockpit sole a season and a half
ago. It's flaking off pretty quickly now. A previous job that we had
properly prepped is holding up well.
--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 sailing from Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ annotated pics) http://members.dca.net/jerelull/BVI.html
sailor
it's 20 year old original gelcoat - with Proline LPU. I've investigated
Proline LPU thru multiple users and sources and it gets a good name from
all. I've previously used Sterling for the shower on my boat, boot
stripe, etc. so have some LPU brushing experience.
I bought some Pro-line 9 months ago as a test - did the gelcoat/FRP
shower pan in a bathroom I was remodelling - used their Y4069 high build
epoxy on the cleaned pan, sanded it and then 2 coats of the Pro-Thane
4800 LPU. This was the materials recommended to me by a shower/tub
refinisher who quoted me $250 to do the job with the same materials. I
brushed the primer and top coats, should have thinner primer more. Small
test job - worked well and still looks new after 2-3 showers per day
since - but no sun/UV exposure. Two years ago a friend did the deck of
their 54' sailboat with Pro-Thane - it's been outside in Long Beach
Marina for 2 years - looks good. He used a different primer/sealer as he
had a one part paint on the deck - seems to me the primer he used was a
water based something or other, which seemed strange to me but it didn't
lift the one part, and the LPU didn't lift it. His boat is steel so he
ground down the sanded nonskid and used some rubber chip stuff he got
from Proline for the new nonskid.
Some history - Proline was bought by Sherwin Williams some time ago (2
years??) - Sherwin Williams is one of the 3 biggest paint mfg in the
world - who would know - I thought they were old and rinky dink.
Apparently SW went on a big buying campaign some years ago and bought up
lots of paint companies - one of which was Pratt & Lambert - the premium
LPU mfg - more widely respected for yacht LPU than Imron, Sterling, etc.
PL had 2 different LPU (Jet Glo and Acry Glo) products - one acrylic LPU
and the other straight LPU. The acrylic LPU was highly favored by mega
yachts, top line boat yards, etc because it could be buffed out to reduce
resprays and create the highest gloss. Pro-Thane is some version of the
PL LPU paints - most likely the ACRY Glo. Jet Glo was mixed 1-1 and Acry
Glo mixed 1-3 - Pro-Thane is mixed 1-2 so don't know what's what here.
The Pro-Thane comes in quarts and gallons - premeasured in 2 cans each
partly filled - so you pour all of one into the other and stir - or
measure small parts out of both like I did for the shower pan. Best part
- a 1 gallon kit of paint (1/3 gal catalyst and 2/3 gal base) is only
$72. That's $18 a quart for 2 part LPU.
Proline is in San Diego 619-231-2313, also outlet in Long Beach area -
Wilmington?
Can anybody add more info or corrections ??
Lew Hodgett
>Hi, it's time to repaint and the one part polyurethane we used last
>time was not satisfactory.
>
>We are considering Sterling two part polyurethane, but are put off by
>the expense.
>
>Has anyone had experience using Proline two part polyurethane? Would
>you recommend it?
These two products are not in the same world.
Sterling makes no attempt to compete with Proline in the L/P market and
Proline recognizes their L/P can't compete with Sterling.
I use a lot of Proline for tank resin lining and interior hull surfaces,
(Actually owned by Sherwin Williams even though Proline is based in San
Diego), their store is 2 blocks from my yard, but Sterling getts my L/P
business for a hull, and yes it is about 3 times the cost.
IMHO, Awlgrip (Azko-Nobel) and Imron would die for the chance to be half the
product Sterling produces.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
sailor
Pro-Thane makes no attempt to charge the Sterling prices - why does paint cost
$300 per gallon ??
Lew Hodgett
> Something wrong here in your answer - the real issue is that Proline /SW
> Pro-Thane makes no attempt to charge the Sterling prices - why does paint
cost
> $300 per gallon ??
Maybe you need to try to re-negotiate a your deal.
As far as Proline and Sterling are concerned, they both charge a market
level price for their respective products.
Proline serves the fish boats, Sterling the yachts.
Totally different businesses.
sailor
$300 per gallon for an equivalent product ??
Glenn Ashmore
sailor wrote:
--
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com
sailor
used them both, I've seen them both on my boat and on other's boats - can somebody
bring some facts to this discussion - rather than vague hints of disaster.
My boat was done with Sterling by a top yard in San Diego 12 years ago, mast
included. I recently redid the bootstripe in brushed Sterling.
I still have 3 quarts of Sterling - that's enough to do the non-skid areas twice.
For $72 I can get a gallon of Pro-line and do the house, etc.
What's the difference between a fish boat and a yacht - except most fish boats are
in better condition than most yachts.
stevefreeman
live in Vancouver B.C. but my boat is in Mexico. I contacted Sherwin
Williams in Mexico and found they have an outlet in Puerta Vallarta BUT I
can't find pro-thane 4800. My guess is that it is only available in
commercial boat supply places in the U.S.
Any info would be great
Thanks
SteveF...@shaw.ca
"sailor" <FA...@msn.com> wrote in message news:3D7B8F13...@msn.com...
sailor
Sherwin Williams (SW) bought Pratt & Lambert (PL) and Pro-Line (Pro). The Pro
Pro-Thane LPU paint is not either of the two LPU paints that PL had - it's a
3rd that Pro produces - don't know it's genesis. PL is sold thru the SW
Industrial outlets - there's one in Sante Fe Springs, CA 562-404-9921 (LA area)
- probably many more.
Pro paints are targeted to marine, military & industrial markets. Pro outlets
are - San Diego 619-231-2313 (Main Office and Mfg plant), Long Beach, CA
310-432-7961, Sarasota FL 813-377-1585. Auth Dist - SD Marine Exchange, San
Diego 619-223-7159, Svensden's, Alameda CA 510 522-7860 (San Fran area),
Pro-line Seattle 206-788-3870, Llewellyn, Wilmington CA (LA area) 310-834-2508,
Honolulu Marine 808-537-2939
So either Settle or San Diego could work for you.
Their LPU paint comes in 27 standard colors - only white & black come in quart
kits, rest are gallon kits (2 parts make 1 gal of mixed paint).
I was told by a very experienced boat painter that priming on gelcoat is not
really necessary if the gelcoat is really clean - brush scrubbed with Comet or
Ajax. Expect to use 2 coats of gloss no matter what brand - Sterling, Pro-line,
PL, whatever as they are very thin - minimal hiding capability. I'm planning on
trying no primer on some deck areas.