Swapping diesel for Atomic 4 in Alberg 30 ??
greg harms
In article <556bil$q...@news.interlog.com> fo...@interlog.com (F.Otta) writes:
>Can you provide any advice/recommendations as to what engine would be
>best to replace the Atomic 4 with? Prices? Mod.s needed?
IMHO you should repower with a Yanmar 3GM30F (they may have renamed this
series but whatever its code name, this is a good engine). I have one on my
boat (C&C 35 Mk I) and have also seen a repower with this engine on an Alberg
30. Contact your local Yanmar dealer for an idea on price. I think you are
probably looking at about $6,000 CDN installed.
greg_...@mindlink.bc.ca
s/v Terna, Vancouver, BC
Chuck Wilson
Frank,
You may want to have the Atomic 4 checked out before deciding to
trash it. They've been decent workhorses for many years. If properly
installed, they are not particularly unsafe if you follow normal
precautions. Also, consider how much you will motor versus sailing. If
you plan to sail primarily and just use a motor to get in and out of
harbors, the cost to replace the existing engine may not be cost
effective.
If you do decide to replace it, I believe Universal makes a
diesel replacement that fits right into the existing space.
Chuck
The journey's the thing. -Homer
*********************
F.Otta wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I just bought an Alberg 30 (#545) and am wary of the A4. I do not know
> it's condition other than that it is not seized and looks OK. I am
> considering changing the engine to a diesel as I plan to take a couple
> of years and head "South" from Toronto (where I currently am) for
> "part unknown". This would occur a cuople of years from present, so I
> can become accustomed to the boat, save money etc...
>
> Can you provide any advice/recommendations as to what engine would be
> best to replace the Atomic 4 with? Prices? Mod.s needed?
>
> Any tips you want to include are much appreciated.
>
> Regards
> Frank
>
> ..................
> fo...@interlog.com
> s/v Suvarov/FZR1000
> Toronto,Ontario
F.Otta
Bryon Kass
Check my site for what is available to replace the AT4. I need to
know a few things to determine how much work it will be to change
to diesel. What is the fuel tank made of, the exhaust system material.
How much room do you have above the engine. You may have to modify the
beds to take the rear flywheel and starter. The job should not be
too bad except the cost of a new engine is now about $7000 USD. Check
my pages for prices and dimensions. Used engines are available. If
you are mechanically inclined I have a 8Kw Westerbeke 3 cyl genset
engine that can be converted to prop but needs a complete rebuild and
a trans for short $$.
Bryon Kass
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://www.ici.net/customers/cusdn
Stephan Larsson
Bryon Kass <cu...@ici.net> wrote:
>Check my site for what is available to replace the AT4. I need to
>know a few things to determine how much work it will be to change
>to diesel. What is the fuel tank made of, the exhaust system material.
>How much room do you have above the engine. You may have to modify the
>beds to take the rear flywheel and starter. The job should not be
>too bad except the cost of a new engine is now about $7000 USD. Check
>my pages for prices and dimensions. Used engines are available. If
>you are mechanically inclined I have a 8Kw Westerbeke 3 cyl genset
>engine that can be converted to prop but needs a complete rebuild and
>a trans for short $$.
I replaced my Atomic 4 with a Kubota 3 cylinder 25hp diesel. It's made
to fit the same engine mountings and space, and has been very
reliable.
Engine + fitting + exhaust + new fuel tank about $9000 (Canadian)
Robert Kirk
In article <556bil$q...@news.interlog.com>, fo...@interlog.com says...
>
>Hi,
>
>I just bought an Alberg 30 (#545) and am wary of the A4. I do not know
>it's condition other than that it is not seized and looks OK. I am
>considering changing the engine to a diesel as I plan to take a couple
>of years and head "South" from Toronto (where I currently am) for
>"part unknown". This would occur a cuople of years from present, so I
>can become accustomed to the boat, save money etc...
>
>Can you provide any advice/recommendations as to what engine would be
>best to replace the Atomic 4 with? Prices? Mod.s needed?
>
>Any tips you want to include are much appreciated.
>
>Regards
>Frank
>
I wouldn't bother changing engines at all. The Atomic 4 is
repairable and overhaulable, if necessary. Parts are readily
available. If you did decide to overhaul it, it's still
considerably cheaper than a new engine. I never did buy
the argument of safety risk in a gasoline engine. And if
it's in good shape, the engine is as dependable as an old shoe.
Besides, with an Alberg as new as #545, the engine is
hardly broken in yet.
Cheers,
Bob Kirk
Isobar
Alberg 30 #181 (with a 30 year old Atomic 4)
RCA
Robert Kirk <rki...@umbc.edu> wrote in article <559b6k$b...@news.umbc.edu>...
> In article <556bil$q...@news.interlog.com>, fo...@interlog.com says...
> >Hi Bob.
In regard to the replacement of an Atomic 4 with a Diesel: I have, and do
not recommend, the small 2 lung Universal M18(?). In flat water, with a
clean bottom, it will push the boat at about 5.2-5.5 kts with the standard
prop. In WAVES, forward motion can become very difficult. Some have gone to
the 3 bladed prop to combat this problem; the results, I hear, have been
mixed. Use, if at all possible, a larger diesel. On the other hand, the
fuel consumption of the M-18 isn't bad.
R. Alley
Nevermore, 219
>
>
>
Rick Itenson
greg_...@mindlink.bc.ca (greg harms) wrote:
>IMHO you should repower with a Yanmar 3GM30F (they may have renamed this
>series but whatever its code name, this is a good engine). I have one on my
>boat (C&C 35 Mk I) and have also seen a repower with this engine on an Alberg
>30. Contact your local Yanmar dealer for an idea on price. I think you are
>probably looking at about $6,000 CDN installed.
Greg,
The list price of this engine ( Yanmar 3Gm30F ) is $8860 Cdn. An
installed price would be closer to $13000 Cdn. If you're looking for
a used diesel I've got a Volvo 2003 which would fit.
_______________________________
Rick Itenson "La Belle Aurore"
CS36 Merlin Toronto
Bill Fritz
I went to a three blade 13/5 prop (I don't race) and it
seems to have more bite....
If I can help just Email...Bill
Tom Kremer
In article <556bil$q...@news.interlog.com>,
fo...@interlog.com (F.Otta) wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I just bought an Alberg 30 (#545) and am wary of the A4. I do not know
>it's condition other than that it is not seized and looks OK. I am
>considering changing the engine to a diesel as I plan to take a couple
>of years and head "South" from Toronto (where I currently am) for
>"part unknown". This would occur a cuople of years from present, so I
>can become accustomed to the boat, save money etc...
>
>Can you provide any advice/recommendations as to what engine would be
>best to replace the Atomic 4 with? Prices? Mod.s needed?
>
>Any tips you want to include are much appreciated.
>
>Regards
>Frank
I am not any great mechanical whiz but I have succesfully worked on and
operated several Atomic 4s. I think it is a great engine and if yours
looks to be in good shape when torn down you should go with it. The only
big negative to Atomic 4s is that many of them are quite old by now and you
have to look at possible cooling water corrosion and past poor maintenance.
They are reliable and easy to maintain and gasoline engines operated by
someone with half a brain are just as safe as diesels operated by idiots.
tpk
Bill Slater
I concurr with tpk.
I have a 75 A4 that purrs like a kitten! Easy to work on (if you
disregard limited space in engine "room").
Bill
S/V Celebration C27
Jay and Rosemary Louden
I agree. I had my '60s vintage A4 rebuilt, never started it untill 4
years later, put it into my '64 Pearson Vanguard and she never takes
more than 2 or three cranks (no choke) to turn over. Runs like a top,
quietly and if you've become involved with repair/replacement of the
bolt-on items, you've really mastered the principles of its operation.
Near boats, there's almost always someone who knows the engine inside
out and good yards with parts departments can get parts. Rebuilding
certain items are available at automotive repair places. Nothing
short of major components are terribly expensive and the availability
of used parts is good - Look in Soundings - and upgrades for
electronics are also around. Unless your terrified of the fumes in
the bilge, keep one in the boat and a spare in the garage for 1/2 the
price of a diesel..
Jay Louden (van...@netaxis.com)
Stu Anderson
The gasoline fuel tank in my 19 year old Catalina 27 has developed a hole
in it (electroylis). Outside of replacing the tank, has technology come
up with a dependable repair for the tank? What would a Professional do?
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Safety is the concern here.
I would also be interested on theories on the source of the electrolyis,
as the tank is isolated, although it has a ground strap that connects to
the filler.
James A. Chamblee
It is probably advisable to replace the tank; because the hole you have
discovered may be the first of many, as elctrolysis tends to honeycomb
all that it destroys.
It may not be electrolysis. It may be salt water corrosion from tank
contact w. bilge water over the years, if your tank is low in the hull.
As for repair of leaks, my third world repair, which has worked well in
the past, is to drill out the hole, and insert a heavily washered bolt
or sheet metal screw ( depending on internal tank access), coated w.
epoxy.
Jim Chamblee
Jere Lull
Stu Anderson wrote:
> The gasoline fuel tank in my 19 year old Catalina 27 has developed a
> hole in it (electroylis). Outside of replacing the tank, has technology
> come up with a dependable repair for the tank? What would a
> Professional do?
> Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Safety is the concern here.
No repair. Replace. If you're getting either corrosion or electrolysis,
there's probably other areas that are just about to go.
Bonding to the filler tank helps keep the sparks down while filling, but
further bonding required to prevent electrolysis, to the engine
normally, but there are much better sources of information for that. DO
find out what caused whatever happened or its likely to happen again (in
another 20 years.)
--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux
'73 Tanzer 28 #4
out of Georgetown, MD