Starting Yanmar
Bryon Kass
white smoke. To get complete combustion you need a 500F rise from abient
to fire. In a small engine like the 2GM you will have to have a warm up
period before you get good combustion. I would first start it at the
lowest
throttle position possible as the governor will take over. You may find
it
smokes less at a lower setting and warms quicker. You can flood diesels
cooling the combustion chambers elongating the warm up period. If you
are
getting lots of smoke after it warms ie blue you could need injectors.
New or recond injectors may eliminate the hesitating warm up as they
will
do better cold in the atomizing arena. There could also be carbon on the
nozzles contributing on the problem. If you give more detail on that
engine
performance I could be more specific on the possible problem.
Bryon Kass
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn
Timbs wrote:
>
> I have recently bought a Contessa 32 which was re-engined in 1991 with a
> Yanmar 2GM. ( I know the engine as I had one in a Jeanneau). While it runs
> smoothly, its starting performance is somewhat strange. When initially
> "fired up", regardless of where the throttle control lever is set, it just
> about ticks over, despite moving the throttle lever to max revs. However,
> after about 30 secs it starts to pick up and will race until I throttle back
> to idle. Cant seem to get any explanation. Only other possibly relevant
> factor is that when the engine is warm and then shut down and restarted, it
> starts as normal. Any ideas would be appreciated
> Thanks
> Joe Timbs, Dublin, Ireland
Timbs
Larry A. Miles
though the engine is under heavy load - so it sounds like a lack of fuel.
Your governor could intermittently stick - but that's unlikely. The most
likely thing is fuel starvation due to a small leak in your fuel supply line
allowing an air pocket to form in your fuel line and /or devices while the
engine is shut off. Sometimes diesel engines will run smoothly but firing
only intermittently or weakly until the air is purged from the fuel system.
You can test for this by putting a section of clear vinyl tubing in series
with the fuel return line and looking for air bubbles when you start the
engine. You should not have ANY air in the line if everything is 100%. You
can also crack fittings open on the pressure side of the system and watch
and listen for signs of air coming out. You can also run the engine from a
can of fuel and try duplicating the starting problem while you know your
fuel system is 100% leak free.
Good luck.
Timbs wrote in message <773ncp$87b$1...@news1.news.iol.ie>...
Larry
what color and how much smoke you see when it FIRST starts up, so we
can tell you a little more....
A diesel at startup DOES just barely run. Firing on the heat of
compression, there is very little heat to keep the fire lit when it's
cold and it has very little power until the combustion chambers warm
up.
Answer me another question.....Have you done a COMPRESSION CHECK? Low
compression caused by leaky valves or worn rings will easily create
the cold-engine symptoms you've outlined. If the engine is "leaking"
the high pressure air, especially at low idle speeds, the heat of
compression lowers. If it gets bad enough you can't start it without
ether or lots of pre-heating. As you see the rpm rise, and it starts
running better, the "leaking" has lots less time to release the air
charge. If you get it spinning fast enough, a badly worn diesel will
overcome its leaking air charge and will start.
Larry....do a compression check!!
Bud Feuless 14
why it races until you throttle back? If I understand you correctly, you
are dealing with a hard-starting problem and solving it with extra throttle.
This is a big mistake, as racing the engine prior to building up adequate
oil pressure will cause dramatic wear in the bearings of both the engine and
turbo. The hard-starting could be the result of many different factors...
but I'd like to hear more from you on what is really happening before I go
any further on what may be false assumptions. Please verify that the above
is a correct understanding of your problem.
Regards, Bud
M DeMetz
Other than the previous posts.
Would a water lift muffler that over fills with water after sitting for a while
cause the same problem until it finally purger the excess water?
Mike
************************************
jameslw...@my-dejanews.com
" Timbs" <ti...@iol.ie> wrote:
> I have recently bought a Contessa 32 which was re-engined in 1991 with a
> Yanmar 2GM. ( I know the engine as I had one in a Jeanneau). While it runs
> smoothly, its starting performance is somewhat strange. When initially
> "fired up", regardless of where the throttle control lever is set, it just
> about ticks over, despite moving the throttle lever to max revs. However,
> after about 30 secs it starts to pick up and will race until I throttle back
> to idle. Cant seem to get any explanation. Only other possibly relevant
> factor is that when the engine is warm and then shut down and restarted, it
> starts as normal. Any ideas would be appreciated
> Thanks
> Joe Timbs, Dublin, Ireland
>
who had a similar problem for a while, I'll put in two cents.
The fuel shutoff can stick mostly shut and cause this problem. After 10-20-30
seconds the vibration and the spring return convince it to open and all is
well. It doesn't stick when hot.
Try manually pushing the fuel shutoff open at the engine before starting. If
it cures the problem, clean and lube. If not, read everyone elses' post
again.
Jim
Jim
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
Roger Wollin
>The other two posts about restricted fuel are a possibility. Tell us
>what color and how much smoke you see when it FIRST starts up, so we
>can tell you a little more....
>
>A diesel at startup DOES just barely run. Firing on the heat of
>compression, there is very little heat to keep the fire lit when it's
>cold and it has very little power until the combustion chambers warm
>up.
Reminds me of a narrow boat I hired once. It would come to life one
cylinder at a time, needing at least a minute on the starter motor
before all four were firing, and in the meanwhile it would be pouring
clouds of smoke, just what you need early in the morning!
Just one small thought, do yacht diesels have glow plugs for pre-heat,
and would that have anything to do with it?
Cheers
Roger
Ron Wilson
Roger Wollin wrote:
> On Fri, 08 Jan 1999 05:19:12 GMT, fas...@new.isp (Larry) wrote:
>
> >The other two posts about restricted fuel are a possibility. Tell us
> >what color and how much smoke you see when it FIRST starts up, so we
> >can tell you a little more....
> >
> >A diesel at startup DOES just barely run. Firing on the heat of
> >compression, there is very little heat to keep the fire lit when it's
> >cold and it has very little power until the combustion chambers warm
> >up.
>
> [snip]
> Just one small thought, do yacht diesels have glow plugs for pre-heat,
> and would that have anything to do with it?
>
> Cheers
>
> Roger
Some do and some don't. I once had a sloop with a Nani diesel that had,
and needed, glow plugs. But it had at some point fallen into the hands of
a yard that didn't quite understand that, and didn't have time to read the
manual. They disconnected the plugs, and the broker just assumed that if
they cranked the engine long enough it would eventually run. True enough
in the summer, but the process fried the starter motor. A short tour of
the engine manual and a new starter solved everything.
ron wilson
John Howell
Many do.....but Yanmar have an optimistic view of life and use neither
glow plugs or cold start.....
Everything needs to be ok and yes you need to apply some throttle to
make up for the missing cold start.....Its not unusual for them to take
a while to pick up, but if difficult to start and not to old then check
the tappet clearaances havn t closed up..
Larry
wrote:
>On Fri, 08 Jan 1999 05:19:12 GMT, fas...@new.isp (Larry) wrote:
>
>>The other two posts about restricted fuel are a possibility. Tell us
>>what color and how much smoke you see when it FIRST starts up, so we
>>can tell you a little more....
>>
>>A diesel at startup DOES just barely run. Firing on the heat of
>>compression, there is very little heat to keep the fire lit when it's
>>cold and it has very little power until the combustion chambers warm
>>up.
>
>Reminds me of a narrow boat I hired once. It would come to life one
>cylinder at a time, needing at least a minute on the starter motor
>before all four were firing, and in the meanwhile it would be pouring
>clouds of smoke, just what you need early in the morning!
>
>Just one small thought, do yacht diesels have glow plugs for pre-heat,
>and would that have anything to do with it?
>
>Cheers
>
>Roger
Some do but some don't. It depends on make/model/size....
Always wanted to take a longboat around the canals of the UK...
Larry]
Larry
diesel. At one time, it had a heater to preheat the air on the intake
but it was long gone when we got it. So, I used my heat gun that I
use to shrink tubing for installations. It's like a super-hair-dryer,
really hot! Engine cranked right up on hot air. Much cheaper than
starting fluid but you had to start the engine before taking it
somewhere to use it.....I think the engine was made by Hercules.
Larry....I guess, seeing as how the intake is only air, you COULD heat
the manifold with a torch for the same effect....(c;
On Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:33:01 +0000, John Howell
<jho...@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote:
>Hi..
>
>Many do.....but Yanmar have an optimistic view of life and use neither
>glow plugs or cold start.....
>
>Everything needs to be ok and yes you need to apply some throttle to
>make up for the missing cold start.....Its not unusual for them to take
>a while to pick up, but if difficult to start and not to old then check
>the tappet clearaances havn t closed up..
>
>
Peter Kay
have silted up to the point of being un-navigable. Now if you fancied
sailing the West coast of Scotland..........
--
Regards,
Peter
Remove nospam to email
"The sky is raining fishes, it's a mutation zoo
Going down Damnation Alley? Well good luck to you"
>
Larry <fas...@new.isp> wrote in message
news:369bc9e0...@news.nations.net...
Steph
starting.
It turns out that the glow-plug solenoid wasn't properly firing, and the
plugs were getting no power. The thing that fooled me was that the voltmeter
showed about 0.5V drop when I flicked the glow-plug switch.
After some fiddling around, I noticed that sometimes the voltage drop was
over 1V. When this was the case, she always started first time.
Now, if I don't get a full 1V drop with the glow-plug switch, I just try it
again a few times until I see a proper drop, and she always fires first
time.
I should get the solenoid out and replace it I suppose, but it's at the back
of the engine and replacing it in the confines of my Ericson 32 engine
compartment would be a nightmare.
Larry wrote in message <369bc9e0...@news.nations.net>...
>On Tue, 12 Jan 1999 17:18:06 GMT, mot...@nildram.co.uk (Roger Wollin)
>wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 08 Jan 1999 05:19:12 GMT, fas...@new.isp (Larry) wrote:
>>
>>>The other two posts about restricted fuel are a possibility. Tell us
>>>what color and how much smoke you see when it FIRST starts up, so we
>>>can tell you a little more....
>>>
>>>A diesel at startup DOES just barely run. Firing on the heat of
>>>compression, there is very little heat to keep the fire lit when it's
>>>cold and it has very little power until the combustion chambers warm
>>>up.
>>
>>Reminds me of a narrow boat I hired once. It would come to life one
>>cylinder at a time, needing at least a minute on the starter motor
>>before all four were firing, and in the meanwhile it would be pouring
>>clouds of smoke, just what you need early in the morning!
>>
>>Just one small thought, do yacht diesels have glow plugs for pre-heat,
>>and would that have anything to do with it?
>>
>>Cheers
>>
>>Roger
>
>
CJ
>
> I have recently bought a Contessa 32 which was re-engined in 1991 with a
> Yanmar 2GM. ( I know the engine as I had one in a Jeanneau). While it runs
> smoothly, its starting performance is somewhat strange. When initially
> "fired up", regardless of where the throttle control lever is set, it just
> about ticks over, despite moving the throttle lever to max revs. However,
> after about 30 secs it starts to pick up and will race until I throttle back
> to idle. Cant seem to get any explanation. Only other possibly relevant
> factor is that when the engine is warm and then shut down and restarted, it
> starts as normal. Any ideas would be appreciated
> Thanks
> Joe Timbs, Dublin, Ireland
From what you describe you have an air-leak on the suction side of your
fuel system. I would:
a) Replace the fuel filter; making sure that you correctly
prime/seat/seal
the filter.
b) Check ALL the connections between your injector pump and the fuel
tank. Replace parts that are questionable.
It probably runs OK when it is restarted warm because the system had
enough time to purge all the air. The reason (I think) it is racing
when it is cold is because of the air in the system; a gasoline
engine will do the same thing. When it had a chance to sit, the
system sucked air into your input line. Your injector pump still
has some fuel in it; so it will start, but generally will run like
crap or surge until all the air is gone.
Just my $0.02.
Good luck,
CLint
Hans Paabor
that things go easiest if I leave the throttle at mininum till it starts to
tick over.
Nikki Locke
> Always wanted to take a longboat around the canals of the UK...
You wouldn't get a (Viking?) longboat up most of the canals. I would
recommend a narrowboat instead :-)
--
Nikki Locke, Trumphurst Ltd. PC & Unix consultancy & programming
ni...@trmphrst.demon.co.uk http://www.trumphurst.com/
Tom Uter
writes:
>Subject: Starting Yanmar
>From: Timbs, ti...@iol.ie
>Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 01:35:26 -0000
>>I have recently bought a Contessa 32 which was re-engined in 1991 with a
>Yanmar 2GM. ( I know the engine as I had one in a Jeanneau). While it runs
>smoothly, its starting performance is somewhat strange. When initially
>"fired up", regardless of where the throttle control lever is set, it just
>about ticks over, despite moving the throttle lever to max revs. However,
>after about 30 secs it starts to pick up and will race until I throttle back
>to idle. Cant seem to get any explanation. Only other possibly relevant
>factor is that when the engine is warm and then shut down and restarted, it
>starts as normal.
I had a '78 2GM for four years. It was a bit tired when I got
it and hard to start. The solution I worked out was as follows:
1. Crank engine for about 10 secs with throttle all the way
back in "stop" position (didn't have a separate "stop" cable).
2. After 10 secs, and while cranking, advance throttle to max
and continue to crank. Engine always started, would run slow
for a few secs and then rev and I would immediately throttle
back.
This was in San Diego where it would rarely be below 50 degF
when I cared about starting the engine. It is my theory that
step one did two things: a) got oil flowing in various places,
like preoiling; b) warmed up the interior of the cylinders so
that combustion was a little easier (no glow plugs on these
engines).
One other point. As received, the engine had no oil pressure
gauge, only a "low pressure" (around 3psi) switch and lamp. I
installed a pressure gauge and found that when cold the
pressure would be around 40-50 psi but that after 30 minutes or
so of running in gear at 2/3 throttle the pressure would drop
to 15-20 psi. I assumed the low pressure was due to main
bearing wear, but chose to ignor the problem for the four years
and four hundred runtime hours I had the boat. Use about a
quart of oil every 20 hrs. The engine was sea water cooled
which means the running temp was held to around 120 deqF.
Sandy Morton
Peter Kay <p...@nospamtesco.net> wrote:
> You have to choose your canals carefully Larry, there are quite a few that
> have silted up to the point of being un-navigable. Now if you fancied
> sailing the West coast of Scotland..........
Don't take a longboat near Largs - they burn one every September!
--
sandymillport
on the bicycle island
in the global village
Rodney Myrvaagnes
wrote:
>I have the 3GM. It also likes a long crank before starting. My feeling is
>that things go easiest if I leave the throttle at mininum till it starts to
>tick over.
>
>
Our 3GM starts on the first turn with the throttle advanced a little
past idle, at any temperature above freezing. We havent tried it much
below.
Darwin P. Hall
I have a 1985 2GM Yanmar in my Hunter sailboat. The owner's manual says
to move the throttle all the way open when starting, then back down to
idle after start. I have used this procedure for 14 years without a
problem, but not in cold weather.
Sarah & Tony Boas
Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote in message <369d6592...@news3.ibm.net>...
>On 13 Jan 1999 11:44:02 GMT, "Hans Paabor" <hpa...@globalserve.net>
>wrote:
>
>>I have the 3GM. It also likes a long crank before starting. My
feeling is
>>that things go easiest if I leave the throttle at mininum till it
starts to
>>tick over.
>>
>>
>Our 3GM starts on the first turn with the throttle advanced a little
>past idle, at any temperature above freezing. We havent tried it much
>below.
My 3GM starts best from cold with the throttle half open, then throttle
back immediately on fire up.
It is interesting that we don't all seem to be playing from the same
hand!
Tony Boas
Sadler 34 - Bold Warrior
Mike James
According to my Yanmar service manual bought at Earl's Court
the half-throttle technique is correct.
It also says if the engine needs more than 15 seconds
it suggests the engine is a little sick (compression/injection etc).
You can also get water buildups in the exhaust that then damage the valves
or worse.. one of the reasons for difficult starting.
I actually had an interesting starting fault yesterday (Sunday).
I had been playing with the injector (1GM) and then bled and ran the
engine for 30 mins battery charging on Saturday.
I stopped the engine normally.
On Sunday it wouldnt start, occasionally firing, either because I had managed
to get the engine to run with air in the fuel pipework, or I hadnt
tightened the injector fuel pipe properly when it was hot, and then
it cooled and a crack let in air.
Back on engine damage
Interestingly the nice man at Marine Power (Old Pete) told me that every
time they service an older Yanmar they have been told to check the exhaust
elbows (by Yanamr), as these can rust through and then spray water up the
exhaust as the engine is stopped.
The new part is stainless steel which corrodes more slowly. only 89 pounds+
VAT. I declined the offer, but I will take a good look when my smoky
1GM is taken apart soon.
Mike.
--
-------------------------------------------------------
-- Mike James G6IXE --
-- Using an Acorn RISC PC 600 --
-- a British, ARM Powered, Non-Intel, 32 bit machine --
-- http://www.hamble.demon.co.uk --
-- Westerly GK24 Forethought of Gosport --
-------------------------------------------------------
Bryon Kass
I have in my 11' lauch likes to run backward if not started correctly
when cold. This is a problem with water being sucked up the exhaust
into the cylinder. It also would not no load to 3600 as designed and
smokes black when I did this test. I removed the head and found the
exhaust
valve almost eroded through its stem. The seat was toast. About $150 in
machining and parts did the trick. It does start better and will no load
to designed max rpm without problems. Another problem with these small
diesels in boats is that they are not used hard enough causing buildup
of shit in the exhaust manifold choking off the piping. Rotting has not
been too much of a problem with diesel as this crap does protect the
pipes.
Checking the output should be an anual ritual by removing the exhaust
hose
and giving a look see. If anyone is having problems with their diesels
please feel free to contact me and I will do my best to help. Of course
diagnostics via cyberspace is difficult at best.
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn
> According to my Yanmar service manual bought at Earl's Court
Rich
Bryon Kass <cu...@ici.net> wrote in message news:36A40E...@ici.net...
Bryon Kass
the 1GM10. The 1GM is a lined engine with a 7.5hp@3600 output where
the 1GM10 is a 9hp unlined. They increased the flywheel mass and
did some other tweeking to prevent that backwards running that mine
experiences. The one I have is an '81. The 1GM10 is quite improved
except for the $4000 initial cost!
Bryon Kass
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn
Marc Auslander
Its design is two concentric pipes. The water is injected between the
two and joins the exhaust near the end of the elbow where the inner
pipe ends. The inner pipe was a copper material, and had worn through
where the water is injected.
We replaced it with the $100+ stainless version. Cheap compared to
the potential cost of getting water into the exhaust valves.
--
Marc Auslander <ma...@watson.ibm.com> 914 945-4346 (Tieline 862 Fax x4425)
Matt Koch
I have a little Yanmar that pre-dates the 1GM. It's a YSE8. This engine is
in a boat built in 1977. Does it suffer from similar problems as the 1GM?
Do you know of any particular problems with this engine?
Thanks
Matt Koch
PY26, Mischief
Bryon Kass <cu...@ici.net> wrote in message news:36A48D...@ici.net...
alan_...@my-dejanews.com
Bryon Kass <cu...@ici.net> wrote:
<snip>
>Another problem with these small
> diesels in boats is that they are not used hard enough causing buildup
> of shit in the exhaust manifold choking off the piping.
<snip>
> Bryon Kass
Bryon,
You raise an interesting point that I've also wondered about. I try to run my
engine with some regularity, even if just tied to the slip, since my
understanding is that *lack of use* is the biggest killer of these engines,
even more so than overuse. But you also mention here the *kind* of use. Do
you suggest a certain regimen of running the engine "hard" periodically? What
would this be? Full throttle (in gear) for so many minutes? And how often?
Personally, I tend to run my engine at perhaps 70% throttle or less most of
the time.
Any suggestions?
--Alan Gomes
Rich
28 but havn't experienced any problems starting it.
>> >to designed max rpm without problems. Another problem with these small
>> >diesels in boats is that they are not used hard enough causing buildup
Darwin P. Hall
Since I also have a 1984 2GM, I was wondering how many hours are on your
engine when the failure occurred? I have about 600 hours on mine.
Regards
Darwin Hall
Marc Auslander
the injectors rebuilt at 1000 hours and replaced one of the
pre-chambers which was burnt. We replaced the exhaust elbow at
1500, but I think we should have looked sooner. We've adjusted the
valves a few times - last time they were dead on after about 500
hours. (But the initial 500 hour valve adjustment was needed.)
We had more trouble with the transmission - rebuilt twice before it
was right - but I think that was a factory defect which was not dealt
with correctly the first time.
Geoff Blake
: The 1GM the older model suffered from various design faults. The one
: I have in my 11' lauch likes to run backward if not started correctly
: when cold. This is a problem with water being sucked up the exhaust
: into the cylinder.
Bryon,
As I am sure that you know, many diesels (except those using "Cummins style"
rail injection systems) will run quite happily(!) in reverse for a short
while.
The normal "cure" is by using anti-reversing cams in the injection pump.
These modify the cam profile and thus the injection timing (in reverse) so that injection takes place
when firing is impossible, i.e. at BDC or TDC with the exhaust/inlet valves
open.
One particular engine that ran particularly well in reverse was the Rootes
TS3 two stroke diesel. On early versions the stop control didn't work in
reverse either :-O
Of course, engines like some larger MAN, Deutz and others are designed to
run as well in reverse - the "reverse function" involves changing valve
timing by shifting the camshaft.
FWIW
Geoff
--
--
Geoff Blake ge...@palaemon.demon.co.uk linux 2.0.31
Chelmsford g8...@g8gnz.ampr.org i586
Intel create faster processors - Microsoft create slower processes
M DeMetz
acording to the owners manual or run it at just under 1/2 throttle in gear for
45 minuts. I hade temp gages on engin, water & oil, also on transmishion oil.
That was enoulf time to get them all to temp plus 15 minuts.
Mike
**********************************
Rich
connected to the head! ;->
<alan_...@my-dejanews.com> wrote in message
news:782o4m$ham$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com...
>In article <36A40E...@ici.net>,
> Bryon Kass <cu...@ici.net> wrote:
><snip>
>
>>Another problem with these small
>> diesels in boats is that they are not used hard enough causing buildup
>> of shit in the exhaust manifold choking off the piping.
>
><snip>
>
>> Bryon Kass
>
>Bryon,
>
>You raise an interesting point that I've also wondered about. I try to run
my
>engine with some regularity, even if just tied to the slip, since my
>understanding is that *lack of use* is the biggest killer of these engines,
>even more so than overuse. But you also mention here the *kind* of use. Do
>you suggest a certain regimen of running the engine "hard" periodically?
What
>would this be? Full throttle (in gear) for so many minutes? And how often?
>Personally, I tend to run my engine at perhaps 70% throttle or less most of
>the time.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>--Alan Gomes
>
Bryon Kass
for most of their life for best efficiency and longevity. Most
diesels are rated continuous at 90% of their output rpm and
saturation. To run any engine with the sufficient load to
maintain operating temperature is ideal.
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn
Bryon Kass
They
were very tough and long lasting. I had one that I installed in a 11'
launch and it lives to this day! It was a 1976 model. It does not have
the same injection system etc as does the newer ones. It did not suffer
any of the growing pains of the GM series. It is alot heavier than the
GM series for example the 8 is 240# vs 155# for the 1GM and 165# for the
1GM10. I was able to idle the YS down to about 400rpm where the 1GM
would die below 650rpm. Too bad they discontinued this series. There was
also a larger series of those engine with multiple cylinders and
upright ones.
Bryon Kass
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn
John Loomer
Can you describe "starting incorrectly when cold", are you talking about
ambient air temp or a "cold" engine? What fault in the starting
procedure contributes to the reverse rotation??
I have a 1GM in my J29 and have not experienced a startup that resulted
in the engine running in reverse. Am I just lucky?
Bryon Kass wrote:
>
> Yanmar had the 1GM from about 1980 to 1985 then redesigned it to
> the 1GM10. The 1GM is a lined engine with a 7.5hp@3600 output where
> the 1GM10 is a 9hp unlined. They increased the flywheel mass and
> did some other tweeking to prevent that backwards running that mine
> experiences. The one I have is an '81. The 1GM10 is quite improved
> except for the $4000 initial cost!
> Bryon Kass
> webmaster and
> Custom Design
> 150 Mechanic St.
> Foxboro, MA 02035
> 508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
> in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn
>
> Rich wrote:
> >
> > What age 1GM do you consider an "older model"?
> >
> > Bryon Kass <cu...@ici.net> wrote in message news:36A40E...@ici.net...
> > >The 1GM the older model suffered from various design faults. The one
> > >I have in my 11' lauch likes to run backward if not started correctly
> > >when cold. This is a problem with water being sucked up the exhaust
> > >into the cylinder. It also would not no load to 3600 as designed and
> > >smokes black when I did this test. I removed the head and found the
> > >exhaust
> > >valve almost eroded through its stem. The seat was toast. About $150 in
> > >machining and parts did the trick. It does start better and will no load
> > >to designed max rpm without problems. Another problem with these small
> > >diesels in boats is that they are not used hard enough causing buildup
> > >of shit in the exhaust manifold choking off the piping. Rotting has not
> > >been too much of a problem with diesel as this crap does protect the
> > >pipes.
> > >Checking the output should be an anual ritual by removing the exhaust
> > >hose
> > >and giving a look see. If anyone is having problems with their diesels
> > >please feel free to contact me and I will do my best to help. Of course
> > >diagnostics via cyberspace is difficult at best.
> > >Bryon Kass
> > > webmaster and
> > > Custom Design
> > > 150 Mechanic St.
> > > Foxboro, MA 02035
> > > 508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
> > > in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn
> > >
> >
--
John Loomer
Y2K Program Manager
Marketing, Sales and Service Systems
16800 Executive Plaza Drive
Mail Drop 4SW2-C
Dearborn, Michigan 48126-4207
Bryon Kass
to prevent this phenomena. What I found was that if you held the starter
longer on cold start it did not allow the engine to stop and go
backwards.
I hold the starter on until the engine starts to speed up on its own.
I hold the throttle open until it starts, reducing the throttle so as
not
to rev it up too much during cold operation. If I leave it at idle on
cold starts and only use the starter until I hear it kick it will stop
then bounce off compression starting in reverse. I did a valve job which
it
needed which reduced the ease of reverse running. It does also start
easier when cold. The older model YSB8 that I installed into another
launch
does not suffer from these peculiarities. IT does weigh 50% more.
Bryon Kass
webmaster and
Custom Design
150 Mechanic St.
Foxboro, MA 02035
508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415
in THE ENGINE ROOM http://home.ici.net/~cusdn