Overheating Volvo MD 17C diesel
Michael Damgaard
problems. The engine is raw water cooled. I have checked and/or replaced
everything from the thru hull to the manifold. I have run saltaway, vinegar
and muretic acid through the engine. I have little white stream when I start
the engine (which runs pretty well) but it gets into the red zone after I
run it for a while developing much more white smoke. My quess is that the
cooling passageways are plugged up. Any suggestions of other things to try?
Chesley Sugg
the transmision cooling jacket , that this jacket will get clogged up. He
recommended removing the inlet hose, outlet hose, top and bottom access screws
and reaming the thing out with a wire.
Steve
reverse gear.
I have worked on or owned 4 different Volvos with overheating problems that
was traced back to the water passage around the thrust bearing on the back
of the reverse gear.
Here is what I recommended a couple days age in this news group:
" ... I should jump in here with my experience with 4 different Volvo MD
series
engines with the water cooled thrust bearing on the back of the MS model
reverse gear.
Normally your hook up will be as follows; seacock, sea water stainer (if
you have one), cooling jacket around the thrust bearing, raw water pump then
the engine it's self. In all of the overheating problems I have worked on,
the main reason for over heating was that the cooling passage around the
thrust bearing was clogged up with marine growth and scale. It is a simple
matter to clean this "loop" because there is a inlet on one side, an outlet
on the other and a plug both top and bottom. Remove all four and run a piece
of wire thru each opening and break up the blockage (and I assure you there
will be a bunch of crap in there), then hook up a garden hose and flush it
all out. This has work on all 4 engines I have worked on. The problem wasn't
in the pump, thermosat or engine block."
I hope this helps. If it does solve you problem, please get back to the
group with some feed back for future reference.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions
Florida Keyz
Take the boat out and run it at hard cruise or even full throutle. Have someone
drive while you go below and inspect the hoses.
Often times hoses will collapse when older, or kink, I have fixed this one of
two ways,
1. replace the hose with reinforced.
2. a hose clamp around the exterior of the hose to keep if from coklapsing.
sorry about the spelling.
Sterling
Larry W4CSC
<damg...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>I have a 20 year old Volvo Penta MD17C diesel engine with overheating
>problems. The engine is raw water cooled. I have checked and/or replaced
>everything from the thru hull to the manifold. I have run saltaway, vinegar
>and muretic acid through the engine. I have little white stream when I start
>the engine (which runs pretty well) but it gets into the red zone after I
>run it for a while developing much more white smoke. My quess is that the
>cooling passageways are plugged up. Any suggestions of other things to try?
>
Blown head gasket?
Capt. Mooron
Steve
equips these MD engines with a 150 F degree thermotats so they won't run hot
and scale up when you shut them down. That is when scale developes, standing
SW in on hot cast iron.
Maybe someone has put a hotter thermostat in your engine thinking it was
running too cold.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions (w/ new MD II B fresh out of the create)
Graham Frankland
Steve wrote in message ...
>Hears a thought that just occurred to me. Why is your engine scaling??
Volvo
>equips these MD engines with a 150 F degree thermotats so they won't run
hot
>and scale up when you shut them down. That is when scale developes,
standing
>SW in on hot cast iron.
>
>Maybe someone has put a hotter thermostat in your engine thinking it was
>running too cold.
I've had two of the 2 cylinder versions (MD11C) and they are prone to
scaling up the cylinders, heads & manifolds. Fortunately, they're quite
easy to strip and clear out but, if done professionally, it's an expensive
job because of the time involved.
Graham.
John Howell
dare and never get an inkling of scaling up from the water....I ve
worked an many others both physically and helping over the net and scale
has never been a problem.
I suppose you do mean salty scale.....and not rust scale...
Rust scale is a problem and is not temperature dependant...In fact rust
scale in the lower reaches of the cylinder blocks as well as mud and
sand are a more usual source of problems...Also there is a small port on
the top of the blocks on the side adjacent to the manifold which is very
important and it too is frequently obliterated with mud rust etc....and
needs a drill to clear it..
These blockages in the block are usually the reason for what seems to be
steaming though the temperature gauge doesn t support overheating...
A good wash will usually clear them aided by bits of wire poked down
from above and through the drain ports..
Opening the drain ports when the engine is still cold but running and
blasting out a good flow will reduce the silTing up in the blocks..
JOHN
--
John Howell Chaka of Birdham MFAX-7
GM4ZQH
Edinburgh Scotland
_____________/)_____________/)______________/)______________
Graham Frankland
John Howell wrote in message <393694...@netcomuk.co.uk>...
>I m also curious about this.....I run my md2b at as high a temp as I
>dare and never get an inkling of scaling up from the water....I ve
>worked an many others both physically and helping over the net and scale
>has never been a problem.
>
>I suppose you do mean salty scale.....and not rust scale...
>
>Rust scale is a problem and is not temperature dependant...In fact rust
>scale in the lower reaches of the cylinder blocks as well as mud and
>sand are a more usual source of problems...Also there is a small port on
>the top of the blocks on the side adjacent to the manifold which is very
>important and it too is frequently obliterated with mud rust etc....and
>needs a drill to clear it..
>
>These blockages in the block are usually the reason for what seems to be
>steaming though the temperature gauge doesn t support overheating...
>
>A good wash will usually clear them aided by bits of wire poked down
>from above and through the drain ports..
>
>Opening the drain ports when the engine is still cold but running and
>blasting out a good flow will reduce the silTing up in the blocks..
The bockages I've come across have been mainly silt and rust.
I'm not sure what the differences are between the MD2B & MD11C but, as you
say, the holes in the top of the cylinders get well crudded up and need
drilling out, as do the corresponding holes in the heads. I've found the
most satisfactory method is to press out the liners and completely descale
the cylinders. The heads can be cleared out quite easily with the core
plugs removed.
I think the hardest part to detect blockages in and to clear, is the
manifold as sometimes waterways to/from one cylinder will be clear, giving
the impression that all is well as water seems to be circulating. Took me a
while to find there's a blanked off drilling near the thermosat which if
drilled out, lets you insert a long drill bit to clear the long passage
that runs the length of the manifold. This may also be possible with the
17C. The rest of the passages can be poked through with welding rod or
similar.
Graham.
John Howell
Yep this is what I find and no amount of Gook from Home Depot or B & Q
will get rid of it....it needs physical removal...
> I'm not sure what the differences are between the MD2B & MD11C but, as you
> say, the holes in the top of the cylinders get well crudded up and need
> drilling out, as do the corresponding holes in the heads.
This is the only way and usually bits of soft copper wire prodded in the
right places do the job ..
> I've found the most satisfactory method is to press out the liners and completely descale
> the cylinders. The heads can be cleared out quite easily with the core
> plugs removed.
The earlier MD engines did not have liners so this isn t something we
can do.....One tip Graham....when you press back the liners rotate them
a bit so that the electroltically eroded spot oposite the drain cock is
moved...I ve seen a few of these engines wrecked cos the liner eroded
right through and got water in the sump...The hole is below piston crown
level at BDC so not seen....usually there is slight shadowing on the
liner wall in this area when it happens....as well as a lot of water
from an unexpained source in the engine...
>
> I think the hardest part to detect blockages in and to clear, is the
> manifold as sometimes waterways to/from one cylinder will be clear, giving
> the impression that all is well as water seems to be circulating. Took me a
> while to find there's a blanked off drilling near the thermosat which if
> drilled out, lets you insert a long drill bit to clear the long passage
> that runs the length of the manifold. This may also be possible with the
> 17C.
All the MD s have this core....it should be replugged if running on
seawater....if on closed loop freshwater cooling it is left open with a
higher temperature thermostat..It gives a higher flow rate with a lower
temperature rise across the engine..
The rest of the passages can be poked through with welding rod or
> similar.
Happy Poking....
John
Graham Frankland
John Howell wrote in message <393777...@netcomuk.co.uk>...
.
>
>Happy Poking....
>
Not any more I hope! Just (today) completed on a Moody 346 with a 4cyl
Thornycroft engine so hopefully more reliable & cheaper for parts when it
does go wrong. Anyone want a Westerly Berwick with an MD11C engine?
Graham.
Steve
happen to use the 'roman numerals" for some reason. After a few years around
various Volvo engines I realized that there isn't a MD eleven (11).
I have never had any major cooling system blockages from scale (except for
the thrust bearing passages noted earlier in this thread) or silt but that
maybe because I have switched back and forth from SW to FW several times.
Also, when, using SW in the colder NW, I have been draining the block in
the winter time to prevent freeze up.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions
Steve
converting the MD series engines to FW cooled and will start a know thread
on that subject.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions
Graham Frankland
Steve wrote in message ...
I
>happen to use the 'roman numerals" for some reason. After a few years
around
>various Volvo engines I realized that there isn't a MD eleven (11).
>
I'm not sure about that, the Volvo Penta manual I have in front of me
covers - MD5, MD7, MD11 & MD17 so I would suggest it's an "eleven" rather
than Roman 2.
There seem to be various differences such as these later series have wet
liners whereas I don't think the earlier ones do.
Graham.
John Howell
Not so Steve!!!!!!
The MD2 and MD 2Abc are not the same as the MD 11 (eleven)
There are many differences and the easiest to see is the cylinder head
studs...I believe the MD11 does not have the small bolts outside of the
rocker covers...the MD as Graham said earlier has liners the MD 2 does
not
You will also find the bores and the powers are different..
The MD2 had cored water passages around the cylinder surface that took
up a lot of gasket space...I believe the MD 11 has drilled passages in
the block.
You have to be carefull ordering spares to identify if it is an MD2
(MDTWO) or MD11 (MDeleven) as there are many differences.
John
Steve wrote:
>
> Just to clearify: MD2 and MD II are the same (the 2 meaning a 2 cylinder). I
> happen to use the 'roman numerals" for some reason. After a few years around
> various Volvo engines I realized that there isn't a MD eleven (11).
>
> I have never had any major cooling system blockages from scale (except for
> the thrust bearing passages noted earlier in this thread) or silt but that
> maybe because I have switched back and forth from SW to FW several times.
> Also, when, using SW in the colder NW, I have been draining the block in
> the winter time to prevent freeze up.
>
> Steve
> s/v Good Intentions
--
Steve
what happens when I "assume" something.
Sorry about that.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions
jean somerhausen
-really indestructible...)at the same peeriod. Then Volvo upped the
horspower to 25, that was the MD2B (they had no end of troubles with
valves as they had souped it up to much...). Then came the MD6 (A and B
- I think the main difference was that the A had dynastart and the B
alternator and starter); it was rated at 10 HP and later came the MD7A
(13 HP) and B (would it be 15 HP ?). That's the extent of my knowledge
on these vintage Volvo's.
john
rre...@gmail.com
rupert
rre...@gmail.com
Sir Gregory Hall, Esq�
news:0057f425-f252-482e...@googlegroups.com...
El domingo, 28 de mayo de 2000 04:00:00 UTC-3, Michael Damgaard escribi�:
> problems. The engine is raw water cooled. I have checked and/or replaced
> everything from the thru hull to the manifold. I have run saltaway, vinegar
> and muretic acid through the engine. I have little white stream when I start
> the engine (which runs pretty well) but it gets into the red zone after I
> run it for a while developing much more white smoke. My quess is that the
> cooling passageways are plugged up. Any suggestions of other things to try?
// I was suffering overheating for years. Beliveme, the only and radical
// solution for this is to take apart cylinder heads and rinse all the the
rust,
// mud et. Mine worhks AOK after doing that (a 27 years engine).Sorry
// about my english.
Right you are sir. There are a couple of copper tubs with small holes in them
that run the length of the head. The cooling water enters the ends of these
tubes and comes out the sides through some relatively small holes. This
distributes the cooling water properly throughout the length of the head.
These tubes become clogged and the only way to really cure the problem
is to remove and replace them or clean them manually if enough metal remains
to be cleaned in the first place.
--
Sir Gregory
Markus Sadeniemi
> that run the length of the head. The cooling water enters
> the ends of these tubes and comes out the sides through
> some relatively small holes. This distributes the cooling
> water properly throughout the length of the head.
> These tubes become clogged and the only way to really cure
> the problem is to remove and replace them or clean them
> manually if enough metal remains to be cleaned in the
> first place.
scratch the hole open. I do it once every three years.
Markus Sadeniemi
Sir Gregory Hall, Esq�
news:Q8l_t.1366$t02...@uutiset.elisa.fi...
sides of the soda straw along its length. It's not possible to clear the holes
in the sides of the soda straw by poking something down the length. The
crap clogging the holes is anything but soft.
--
Sir Gregory
Anonymous
Criminal, pedo, scumbag, usenet freak. Shits in his bunk.
Making sure everyone knows you have a little limp dick and a puke yellow boat that smells like shit, not to mention your lack of education.
Capt...@gmail.com
Neal D. Warren/Wilbur Hubbard/Gregory Hall
PO Box 1015
Tavernier, FL 33070
305 304-7546