Re-galvanizing anchor chain.
John
Donald Jardine wrote in message <8c33ll$9k6$1...@knot.queensu.ca>...
>The problem seems to be that hot dip
>galvanizing companies have zinc kettles of maximun 25 to 40 feet, and
cannot
>accomodate a long chain.
>
Was the chain dipped originally? Might you talk to some chain
producers? They may know how it's done, or by whom. JG
Donald Jardine
galvanize a 200-foot anchor chain? The problem seems to be that hot dip
galvanizing companies have zinc kettles of maximun 25 to 40 feet, and cannot
accomodate a long chain.
Can anyone advise me on how to re-galvanize 200 feet of chain?
Thanks in advance.
--
Donald Jardine, Kingston Ont. Canada
Evan Gatehouse & Diane Selkirk
Donald Jardine <jard...@qucis.queensu.ca> wrote in message
news:8c33ll$9k6$1...@knot.queensu.ca...
> Does anyone know of a company on the east coast of USA that will hot-dip
> galvanize a 200-foot anchor chain? The problem seems to be that hot dip
> galvanizing companies have zinc kettles of maximun 25 to 40 feet, and
cannot
> accomodate a long chain.
There is a company in Richmond, VA that will do chain galvanizing. However,
the cost is about $1/lb. + an additional charge if there is significant rust
or paint that needs to be removed. Since I got a good deal on new chain
(look under "Chain" in the yellow pages) I opted for that route.
--
Evan Gatehouse
s/v Ceilydh
gcouger
"Evan Gatehouse & Diane Selkirk" <cei...@NOSPAMprodigy.net> wrote > Donald
Jardine <jard...@qucis.queensu.ca> wrote in message
> news:8c33ll$9k6$1...@knot.queensu.ca...
> > Does anyone know of a company on the east coast of USA that will hot-dip
> > galvanize a 200-foot anchor chain? The problem seems to be that hot dip
> > galvanizing companies have zinc kettles of maximun 25 to 40 feet, and
> cannot
> > accomodate a long chain.
>
> There is a company in Richmond, VA that will do chain galvanizing.
However,
> the cost is about $1/lb. + an additional charge if there is significant
rust
> or paint that needs to be removed. Since I got a good deal on new chain
> (look under "Chain" in the yellow pages) I opted for that route.
>
chain
a few miles. A sandy road is even better. If it is good and dry you can
probably
get a shine on the chain. If there is much moisture at all in the sand or
gravel
it won't work.
--
Gordon W5RED
G. C. Couger gco...@couger.com Stillwater, OK
www.couger.com/gcouger
"You miss 100 percent of the shots you never take." - Wayne Gretzky
Gary Zwissler
keep the plating from "glueing" the links together. Galvanizing chain is
normally done by tumbling the chain while in the galvanizing solution. How
this is done I have no idea. But the guy that galvanized my trailer told me
that's the way its done, and because of the special equipment its normally
done by chain manufacturers versus galvanizing companies.
Gary
Donald Jardine <jard...@qucis.queensu.ca> wrote in message
news:8c33ll$9k6$1...@knot.queensu.ca...
> Does anyone know of a company on the east coast of USA that will hot-dip
> galvanize a 200-foot anchor chain? The problem seems to be that hot dip
> galvanizing companies have zinc kettles of maximun 25 to 40 feet, and
cannot
> accomodate a long chain.
>
LDS
Everett, Massachusetts.
Bob Richardson
>> Does anyone know of a company on the east coast of USA that will hot-dip
>> galvanize a 200-foot anchor chain? The problem seems to be that hot dip
>> galvanizing companies have zinc kettles of maximun 25 to 40 feet, and
>cannot
>> accomodate a long chain.
I had 200 feet of 5/16" BBB regalvanized in Seattle and was not happy with
the results. Even with tumbling, small amounts of material accumulate on
the chain. Each of these gobules has to be knocked off or the chain will
not go through the gypsy cleanly. Considering the cost and the bad result,
it seems clear to me that purchasing new chain is the better way to go.
YMMV
jax...@together.net
When I was over in Maine a year ago, I saw a 40 foot gaff rigged
boat that had what appeared to be galvanized hardware. Chain plates,
gammon, pinltes,gudgeons, the works...all galvanized. This was an
excursion boat for tourists and the hull was steel.Not a work boat but
probably a million dollar replica of one.
What are anyone's thoughts on how long this hardware will last?
Are there different grades of galvanizing?
If the boat is steel hulled, what is the shaft and prop? Stainless?
It seems like if galvanized steel will last a while, It would be cheaper
in the long run than bronze...as long as you could re-galv it. How long
before it would have to be re-galvanized? Is there a difference if using
real WROUGHT iron over steel.
As I continue to plan my BIG boat, that homemade, self welded galvanized
hardware looks pretty good if it will outlast the 20 or so years I hope
I have left. What are your thoughts?
Also have a look at my LITTLE boat I made last fall and see if see is
as pretty as her name sake, Vanna White
http://homepages.together.net/~jaxxon/photospage/vanna.jpg
Ron
that are hot dipped will last at least 20 years. I don't see why you
couldn't expect that on deck fittings.
Steve
chain plates, bobstay, etc. She was 40 years old then and aside from some
bleeding rust from some fasteners, she held to gather pretty good.
I also helped build a planked wooden 36 ft ketch and every bolt and fastener
in her was galvanized. That was 40 years ago and I hear she is still doing
fine.
Steve
s/v Good Intentions
Everett Collier
is considerable difference between the two. For marine work, only hot
dipped galvanizing should be considered. Service life is directly related
to the thickness of the coating. Good, hot-dip galvanize fittings should
have no trouble providing a service life of 20 years plus.
If the less-than "gold-plater" look doesn't bother you, go for it!
Regards,
Ev
Bob Richardson
Capt Yes_Sir wrote in message
<3lndes0ta21talnlt...@4ax.com>...
>Where did you get it done and how much did it cost?
Near the Ballard Bridge in Seattle. It cost a little over $1.00 per pound.
>Why couldn't the co. tumble it to knock the lumps off?
They did tumble it, but not long enough.
>What happened to it? Did you use it?
For the next 80-100 times anchoring, the chain would get stuck in the gypsy.
Sometimes I would lift the chain over the rough spot, sometimes I used a
hammer and pounded the globs off...one by one. Finally, the chain is
starting to go through the gypsy moderatly well - but still not half as well
as new chain does.
All the testimonials about galvanized fittings lasting many, many years may
be true. But chain, that is dragged in he sand and rocks, gradually has the
galvanized (yes - it was hot dipped) material worn off. Far different than a
cleat that spends it time on a dock or deck.
edgar cove
>Speaking of Galvanizing...
>When I was over in Maine a year ago, I saw a 40 foot gaff rigged
>boat that had what appeared to be galvanized hardware. Chain plates,
>gammon, pinltes,gudgeons, the works...all galvanized. This was an
>excursion boat for tourists and the hull was steel.Not a work boat but
>probably a million dollar replica of one.
>What are anyone's thoughts on how long this hardware will last?
>Are there different grades of galvanizing?
>If the boat is steel hulled, what is the shaft and prop? Stainless?
>It seems like if galvanized steel will last a while, It would be cheaper
>in the long run than bronze...as long as you could re-galv it. How long
>before it would have to be re-galvanized? Is there a difference if using
>real WROUGHT iron over steel.
>As I continue to plan my BIG boat, that homemade, self welded galvanized
>hardware looks pretty good if it will outlast the 20 or so years I hope
>I have left. What are your thoughts?
>
>Also have a look at my LITTLE boat I made last fall and see if see is
>as pretty as her name sake, Vanna White
>http://homepages.together.net/~jaxxon/photospage/vanna.jpg
There is hot dip galvanising and there is zinc plating which looks
somewhat similar but is nowhere near as good. The zinc is a sacrificial
coating which protects the nearby steel or iron but if you do not have
stray electrical currents to foul up the issue 20 years is well on the
cards. I think wrought iron fittings are better than welded steel. 50
years ago one made a sketch of the required fitting, then had it made by
the local blacksmith and then had it hot dip galvanised. Such fittings
lasted a very long time.
Many people seem to get away with bronze shafts and props in steel boats
but great care must be taken with selection and positioning of anodes to
protect the hull. A steel shaft and a ductile iron propeller would be a
better solution.
--
edgar (remove nospam from return address for e-mail reply)
M.Holden
metal galvanicly and mechanically, but it's the galvanic protection that you
need to think about.
the zinc on your fittings will work just like the anodes on your hull. the
zinc will corrode away first, and when it is depleted, the steel will start
to rust.
if the zinc plating on your galvanized fittings isn't also working as
sacrificial anodes for adjacent steel, it will last a fair period of time.
in other words, a good paint scheme would be very important, or
alternatively, the galvanized fittings should be insulated from the deck /
hull.
I have had a lot of parts for various boats galvanized, both hot dip and
electroplated.
hot dip is far superior as far as protection is concerned, but the material
is heated up to about 600C. [1112F] and long or thin pieces will warp or
bend. also, the plating is thick and tends to be irregular, so for some
applications the plating gets in the way [like when a part must fit over
another]. I use hot dip preferably, though.
as far as iron verses steel, I believe it to be a myth. Iron is slightly
more noble than steel, so where they are mixed in one assembly and get wet
[even in rain water] a galvanic cell is created that destroys the steel
while leaving the iron intact. anyone seeing the result [I have] will assume
that the Iron is more resistant to rusting than the steel. ok, it is, but
only slightly when on it's own. I have several OLD steel ships [1888 to
1922], and while not built of iron [contrary to the local lore] they are
made of a steel using an older process, and the old metal is [like iron]
slightly more nobel on the galvanic scale than the modern [and otherwise far
superior] steel that I use for repair. the effect under water is dramatic.
on the next haul out after new plate has been added, the new plate is badly
corroded while the old stuff around it is untouched. I now use sacrificial
anodes [against local advise] even though the ships are in fresh water, and
now all the steel is happy.
regards, Mark Holden
Harry
galvanizing of my 200' of 5/16" chain was wearing off in places.
It was exclusively used in fresh water so corrosion was not bad yet.
I decided to have the chain plated. This is a continuous process,
rather than a batch process, so any length chain can be accommodated.
The process:
The chain is first soaked (soaked at a temperature of 2000 Fahrenheit)
to clean the surface and then an acid dip rinse. Two clear water
rinses to remove acid residue.
First plating is a solution of Potassium Chloride, Hydrochloric
acid, Boric acid, Zinc brightener & Zinc carrier.
Then 2 more rinses and a bath of nitric acid. Then it is either a blue
bright plating or the yellow dichromate (the latter was done on mine).
3 more rinses.
The yellow colour that is on my chain is used by the Transport
Industry for tie down chain and is subject to salt on the roads.
It is used because it does resist salt.
I don't know how it would stand up to salt water. Would it be a
meaningful test for me to put a couple of links in a 30% salt
solution for a few months to see that happen? Or is there something
else in seawater that would make this test meaningless. I am willing
to try, and report the results.
David Smalley
<snip excellent post, all except for:)
> The chain is first soaked (soaked at a temperature of 2000 Fahrenheit)
I rather doubt that. I don't know of any liquid (maybe mercury?) that
could withstand 2000 degrees at anywhere near atmospheric pressure.
Maybe you meant 200 degrees? 8^)
--
DAVe
(what's a zero or two between friends?)
Harry
My wife is the expert in this field. I mistook her use of the word
"soak" to mean that the chain is heat-soaked in the furnace for
annealing/tempering purposes. In actual fact the real story is:
"The "Soak2000" is the name of the chemical combination used to soak off
any debris on the chain. It is patented, and provided by the company
that supplies the plating chemicals"
Thanks for catching that.
H
David Smalley
>
> David Smalley <dr...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> * Harry wrote:
> *
> * <snip excellent post, all except for:)
> *
> * > The chain is first soaked (soaked at a temperature of 2000 Fahrenheit)
> *
> * I rather doubt that. I don't know of any liquid (maybe mercury?) that
> * could withstand 2000 degrees at anywhere near atmospheric pressure.
> *
> * Maybe you meant 200 degrees? 8^)
>
> Most metals form a liquid at 2000 degrees fahrenheit. So does glass, and
> many other minerals. While I do not see why one would want to soak a chain
> in glass, there are many possible candidate liquids for soaking at that
> temperature.
No, I don't think so. If I remember correctly at 2000 Fahrenheit steel
glows dull red, good for annealing, but not hot enough to distort the
object's shape from melting. I think steel melts somewhere around 2400F.
> * (what's a zero or two between friends?)
Details, details, always details. Maybe _you_ were thinking 20,000. 8^)
--
DAVe
neil...@gmail.com
We regalvanize chain all the time, while it is not smooth like a bumper it certainly will go thru a gypsy without problems.
Neil Mertz
Emerald Galvanizing
Seattle
Brad Brown
> Donald Jardine wrote in message <8c33ll$9k6$1...@knot.queensu.ca>...
> >galvanizing companies have zinc kettles of maximun 25 to 40 feet, and
> cannot
> >accomodate a long chain.
> >
>
> producers? They may know how it's done, or by whom. JG