Bolger's 16' Windsprint - Have You Built It?

[Teakdeck]

I am building Boger's 16' double ended sharpie Windsprint, as it appears in the
book, Build the New Instant Boats, by Harold Payson. This will be my first
experience. What should I look out for? Any advice would be gladly received.

Thanks in advance.

Teakdeck

[SpeedCom]

>I am building Boger's 16' double ended sharpie Windsprint, as it appears in
>the
>book, Build the New Instant Boats, by Harold Payson. This will be my first
>experience. What should I look out for? Any advice would be gladly received.

Hey, teak,

There are a couple of sites with windsprint info. I've built a Teal, smaller
sister to WS. You'll have no trouble. That boat puts itself together if you'll
cut the parts correctly and shake them in a big box.
http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/boatyard.htm
http://www.friend.ly.net/user-homepages/d/dadadata/index.html
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~jkohnen/nautical.html
http://www.mims.com/maib/

Somewhere in there you will find WS, and a bunch of other nice stuff. Also try
http://www.apci.net/~michalak/#Birth+of+the+AF4

You'll have to drill back up to the main page to get it all.

I'll send you something else privately.

Cheers/

Donald Carron,

Preserve endangered species; collect a complete set

[John Bell]

teak...@aol.com (Teakdeck) wrote:

>I am building Boger's 16' double ended sharpie Windsprint, as it appears in the
>book, Build the New Instant Boats, by Harold Payson. This will be my first
>experience. What should I look out for? Any advice would be gladly received.
>

>Thanks in advance.
>
>Teakdeck

I built a Windsprint a couple of years ago. It's a pretty nice little
boat and darned easy to build.

My advice:

1) if you haven't already, spring $35 for the full sized plans. It's a
lot easier to pick up measurments off a scaled drawing than it is from
a tiny illustration in a book. It is also good form to see that the
designer gets paid for his efforts.

2) While Bolger does not show them, it is HIGHLY recommended you build
large bouyancy tanks in the ends of the hull. I suggest you use the
foward and aft molds as bulkheads for the bouyancy tanks. You will
need another sheet of plywood over the four needed for the basic hull.
Without extra floatation, the boat is nearly impossible to self rescue
after a capsize.

3) I used epoxy. Save some money, use epoxy only where it's needed
(like filleting and taping floatation tanks). Otherwise use weldwood
plastic resin glue. It's a lot cheaper and a lot less hassle than
epoxy.

4) Don't try to make the danged thing a yacht. Build it as best you
can, as fast as you can and enjoy the results. Only you will notice
the flaws, everyone else will be so amazed you built it yourself
they'll miss every imperfection, major or minor. Your next boat will
be nicer.

5) Wear a PFD at all times. A 5 gallon bucket is not a bad thing to
have aboard either.

6) Have fun.

JB

John Bell - jmb...@mindspring.com
----------------------------------------------
"Mejor que Nada"
Bolger Windsprint
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com/boatyard.htm

[Allen Majorovic]

John Bell wrote:

I built a Windsprint a couple of years ago and I agree with Mr. Bell right down the
line.

--
*************************************************************************************

Allen Majorovic
amaj...@bignet.net

*************************************************************************************

"Minutus cantorum, minutus balorum, minutus carborata descendum pantorum."
-- (A little song, a little dance, a little seltzer down your pants.)

[John Bell]

jmb...@mindspring.com (John Bell) wrote:

>2) While Bolger does not show them, it is HIGHLY recommended you build
>large bouyancy tanks in the ends of the hull. I suggest you use the
>foward and aft molds as bulkheads for the bouyancy tanks. You will
>need another sheet of plywood over the four needed for the basic hull.
>Without extra floatation, the boat is nearly impossible to self rescue
>after a capsize.

A little more incentive to build the tanks: They apparently have a
fleet of Windsprints in Nova Scotia which are raced every fall at a
wooden boat festival in Mahone Bay. Last year according to accounts I
read, there were a number of capsizes due to stronger than usual
conditions. Those who had adequate flotation were able to continue
racing without much difficulty, those without had to retire (and be
rescued) due to potentially dangerous brushes with hypothermia.

One day when I have all the time in the world to travel, I'd love to
race a bunch of Windsprints in Nova Scotia....

Best!

[Don Baldwinson]

In article <353175ca...@news.mindspring.com>, jmb...@mindspring.com
says...

>
>teak...@aol.com (Teakdeck) wrote:
>
>>I am building Boger's 16' double ended sharpie Windsprint, as it appears in
the
>>book, Build the New Instant Boats, by Harold Payson. This will be my first
>>experience. What should I look out for? Any advice would be gladly received.
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>Teakdeck
>
>
>
>I built a Windsprint a couple of years ago. It's a pretty nice little
>boat and darned easy to build.
>
>My advice:
>
>1) if you haven't already, spring $35 for the full sized plans. It's a
>lot easier to pick up measurments off a scaled drawing than it is from
>a tiny illustration in a book. It is also good form to see that the
>designer gets paid for his efforts.
>

>2) While Bolger does not show them, it is HIGHLY recommended you build
>large bouyancy tanks in the ends of the hull. I suggest you use the
>foward and aft molds as bulkheads for the bouyancy tanks. You will
>need another sheet of plywood over the four needed for the basic hull.
>Without extra floatation, the boat is nearly impossible to self rescue
>after a capsize.
>

>3) I used epoxy. Save some money, use epoxy only where it's needed
>(like filleting and taping floatation tanks). Otherwise use weldwood
>plastic resin glue. It's a lot cheaper and a lot less hassle than
>epoxy.
>
>4) Don't try to make the danged thing a yacht. Build it as best you
>can, as fast as you can and enjoy the results. Only you will notice
>the flaws, everyone else will be so amazed you built it yourself
>they'll miss every imperfection, major or minor. Your next boat will
>be nicer.
>
>5) Wear a PFD at all times. A 5 gallon bucket is not a bad thing to
>have aboard either.
>
>6) Have fun.

>John Bell - jmb...@mindspring.com

Interesting post. Could you clarify something for me? I have always wondered
how the rig goes to windward when the mast is on the "wrong" side of the sail.
Is there noticeable difference between tacks?

Don

[John Bell]

wr...@ihug.co.nz (Don Baldwinson) wrote:

>
>Interesting post. Could you clarify something for me? I have always wondered
>how the rig goes to windward when the mast is on the "wrong" side of the sail.
> Is there noticeable difference between tacks?
>
>Don
>

I don't see that much difference really. The sail used to set flatter
on the "wrong" side which sometimes seemed a little better to
windward, but I found adjusting the downhaul tension and adding
parrels to the boom and yard equalized performance on opposite tacks.

It won't scream upwind like an IMS racer but we do OK. Off the wind
and reaching are a hoot!