Engine mount Minn Kota trolling motors.
doub...@hotmail.com
and would they recommend them?? I'm thinking of using the RT80EM
mounted to a tiller attached to my Bank Dory.
2. Would there be a problem if I attached the unit upsidedown so as to
limit the amount of draft needed to get the motor in the water. The
manual says the cavitation plate needs to be 13" under the water for
the engine to work. I'm thinking of attaching it to a wooden
cavitation plate built into the tiller but attach it on the bottom of
the plate so as to lessen the draft required to get the props in the
water. The comapny sent me an email reply saying they only recommend
instalation as per the instructions. Anyone see a problem with what
I'm thinking of doing???????
drs...@volcanomail.com
When you say "mounted to a tiller" do you mean mounted to a tiller
steered outboard? My experience fishing very shallow water for
redfish with trolling motors is that there is minimum distance
underwater that the motor has to sit, it probably is close to 13" to
the cavitation plate, maybe a little less, otherwise the motor will
make a lot of noise by sucking air into the prop and scare the fish.
You need about 18" of water to use a trolling motor; less than that
get out the pushpole. An engine mounted trolling motor would not be
my first choice for shallow water fishing, due to the stealth and
finesse required. I've had the most luck with a 30# Minnkota Endura,
transom mounted, that sits next to my tiller steered outboard. I get
100 yrds or so from my quarry, kill the outboard, drop down the
Minnkota, and slide on in silently.
Ed.
doub...@hotmail.com
Thanks for the reply. Look at this link. GO down to features and click
on "Engine mount guide"
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/products/motors/detail.asp?pg=fem#
Traditionally,the motor is mounted on the cavitation plate. I'd like
to put a "fake cavitation plate" on my tiller,it's just a wooden
tiller and I was thinking of putting cleats on the sides of it as a
cavitation plate, and mount the motor upside down so I wouldn't need
to draw as much water. It really isn't a cavitation plate, just 2
cleats to mount the motor. If you look at the diagram Minn Kota
provides, the motor is mounted on the cavitation plate of an outboard
13" below the water but it sticks up off the cavitation plate a few
inches. I don't have an outboard, just a tiller. I'm thinking of
making another tiller just for when I use the motor.
TIA,
Bob
On Feb 24, 8:39 am, "drs...@volcanomail.com" <drs...@volcanomail.com>
wrote:
John C.
motor is 200 lbs thrust. Throw 2 pair under a 14 foot skiff and you'll have
a great little no-hands row boat.
<doub...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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John C.
on plane under power of the O/B. That would be too much load for the mount.
To do what you want make a mounting plate in the shape of a horse shoe.
Develop a clamping mount lock. When you want to troll drop the mount on top
of the cavitation plate lock it in and go.
<doub...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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doub...@hotmail.com
motor well. This electric motor will be the only motor for power. I'm
aware of the constraints of electric.My biggest concern was if
mounting it upside down was a problem. I think it'll work but just
wanted some more input. Basicallt it's a Bank Dory propelled by an
electric motor mounted to a tiller. It eliminates the need for a motor
well and it looks better than a trolling motor with a shaft hanging
off the bow or transom. What do you think??
Bob
On Feb 25, 8:18 am, "John C." <jcass...@optonline.net> wrote:
> If you mount them upside down they will be under water when you are running
> on plane under power of the O/B. That would be too much load for the mount.
>
> To do what you want make a mounting plate in the shape of a horse shoe.
> Develop a clamping mount lock. When you want to troll drop the mount on top
> of the cavitation plate lock it in and go.
>
> <doubl...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
John C.
mount the motors as you intended. I see no problem. You could even mount
them to the hull bottom like an inboard, use two pairs controlled separately
and you would have steerage as well. A rudder would be better but that could
me added after if allowances were left from the beginning.
<doub...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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doub...@hotmail.com
That's a good idea. The problem is that i need to beach this boat. I
also think the tiller will protect the motor when in forward and the
tiller can be removed when rowing. I also am planing on using 2
different tillers for sailing and motoring. It also allows me to take
the motor off the boat when not in use. I like the flexibility
mounting it on the tiller gives me.
Bob
On Feb 25, 10:11 am, "John C." <jcass...@optonline.net> wrote:
> Make a swim platform type plate on the transom at the necessary position to
> mount the motors as you intended. I see no problem. You could even mount
> them to the hull bottom like an inboard, use two pairs controlled separately
> and you would have steerage as well. A rudder would be better but that could
> me added after if allowances were left from the beginning.
>
Phan...@nospam.invalid
>I'm thinking of using the RT80EM
>mounted to a tiller attached to my Bank Dory.
I've been following this thread but I've been confused from the start.
Are you maybe using the term "tiller" when you actually mean "rudder"?
A "tiller" is simply a handle. Aka, "stick".
I can't quite picture how you can attach a RT80EM to a "tiller".
A "rudder" yes... a "tiller" no.
Or maybe I'm just missing something -shrug-
Rick
doub...@hotmail.com
I've always wrongly called it a tiller. Anyway, do you see any
problems with mounting the motor upside down??? Minn Kota said they
only indorse mounting it per the instructions.
Bob
Phan...@nospam.invalid
And it seems to me that mounting it per Minn Kota's instructions would
mean mounting it on the cavitation plate of an outboard or sterndrive,
which you, obviously, aren't going to do.
So as long as you're winging it anyway, I don't know why upside down
should present a problem.
Dayem, that thing is expensive. But you're set on that arrangement,
huh? If it were me, I'd be lookin' at a transom mounted trolling
motor. I don't really see what you are going to gain with all the
alteration and expense you're contemplating.
Rick
drs...@volcanomail.com
these on your rudder, vs. a simpler, cheaper, and more reliable
transom mounted trolling motor? Certainly it's not better shallow
water capability. You can't be what you can get with just the transom
mounted motor as designed.
Ed.
Phan...@nospam.invalid
>Well, I must be missing something. What's the advantage of mounting
>these on your rudder, vs. a simpler, cheaper, and more reliable
>transom mounted trolling motor?
I asked the same question and I can think of only 2 possibilities.
1) Aesthetics. He's a traditionalist and doesn't want to spoil the
"look".
......or......
2) He's into serious sailboat racing, looking for competitive
advantage, and he's up to sumthin' against the rules! ;-)
Rick
Heikki
> Well, I must be missing something. What's the advantage of mounting
> these on your rudder, vs. a simpler, cheaper, and more reliable
> transom mounted trolling motor?
I have no experience with such, but have been speculating a bit about a
similar arrangement. My reasons were
- Does not spoil traditional looks
- Steerable motor from the usual tiller arrangement (also on reverse)
- Easier to remove and hide when leaving the boat
- Easy to remove (replace rudder) when sailing, no extra drag
- The rudder would protect the engine when grounding or beaching
-H
doub...@hotmail.com
wrote:
A transom mounted trolling engine with 80# of thrust is the same price
if not more than an engine mounted one. I probably could get by with a
lot less thrust but I want to make sure the setup is efficient and
capable of being tranfered to a bigger boat if I build one. The look
is also important. Also, my transom is raked at 35 degrees. If I use a
transom mounted motor the shaft will be well away from the bottom
which I personally think looks unappealing. This engine will be the
main power source. Why not make it look as good as possible?? Also I
can build a RUDDER which pivots up if I hit something. I'm assuming
the shafts on trolling motors don't take hiting bottom or beaching
into account. Maybe I'm assuming wrong. There are tides involved where
I'm using this and the water can get real shallow. Price wise it's a
wash compared to the transom mounted one so why not go with one that
doesn't detract from the looks with all the advantages I have stated.
John C.
http://www.carlsondesign.com/sneakesy.html
Electric inboard with plenty of room for batteries and plenty of reserve
buoyancy.
<doub...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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doub...@hotmail.com
You would have many hrs on the more efficient 24V system since it
wouldn't take much to push those hulls. I'm planing on using solar
panels to charge the batteries.
On Feb 26, 7:55 am, "John C." <jcass...@optonline.net> wrote:
> They would be ideal to power something like thishttp://www.carlsondesign.com/sneakesy.html
>
> Electric inboard with plenty of room for batteries and plenty of reserve
> buoyancy.
>
> <doubl...@hotmail.com> wrote in message