paint brush cleaning
Paul Oman
I recently purchased a very expensive paint brush (hoping it would paint
the boat for me!)
Anyway, I realized I don't really know how to clean a paint brush....
I dip it in solvent a few times and use a 'brush spinner' - but don't
really know if I am doing it right. No big deal with cheap brushes, but
the $ ones need to last a while.
paul
Mungo Bulge
xylene, or tolulene) recommended by the paint manufacturer. I pour
solvent into three sealable containers, large enough to hold the
brush, clean up to the feral (pun intended). I wash a new brush the
first bath before using the brush the first time, or if its been
laying around collecting dust. When I want to clean the brush after
use, I was it in the first bath to get the worst cleaned off. I also
have a dog grooming comb (small) to work out any dried bits. Once it
is reasonably clean, I squeeze it out and pat it dry. Next I wash it
in the second bath. This cleans the remaining residue out of the
bristles. Squeeze and pat dry. Inspect and if it is clean enough, I
rinse it thoroughly in the third bath and spin dry and hang it from
the rafters. This is probably not a good place to hang them, but its
the only place I have.
I also use to use Paly-Solve sometimes, then I would use warm soapy
water and a brush conditioner.
Save your dirty solvent in a seperate container, allow it to settle
for a few days then pour off the clean thinner on top and save for
another day to use as bath one and two. The remaining sludge in the
bottom can be left open to dry out and then properly disposed of. I
evaporate everything, never flash it.
"Paul Oman" <in...@epoxyproducts.com> wrote in message
news:RweAe.20673$eM6....@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Brian Whatcott
wrote:
It is very instructive to clean up a brush used for water-based paint.
Washing it under running water brings on the realization that a brush
can release pigment for a good while after solvent (water) starts
flowing.
The same principle applies to oil-base or resin-base paint:
it takes an awful lot of solvent to lose the last vesitiges of
pigment.
Better to hold a brush in suspended animation if at all possible -
people have used water-submersion for oil-based paint brshes -
or kept them in a fridge.
Brian Whatcott Altus OK
Peggie Hall
drawer. And always putthe cardboard wrapper back on 'em after you've
cleaned 'em. Don't wait till the brush is dry to put the wrapper back
on...it needs to dry IN the wrapper...'cuz that's what keeps the
bristles "organized" so you don't have strays sticking out next time you
want to use it.
I've owned several GOOD paint brushes in assorted sizes for years, for
both oil and latex paints....they're expensive, but definitely a
worthwhile investment (so is the best quality paint). If I can't finish
a job in one "sitting," it's not necessary to clean the brush...the
important thing is to keep it from drying out. So I just wrap the
bristles in wet rag (latex) or a rag soaked in paint thinner (oil or
varnish)--not dripping wet, just damp--and put it in a ziplock till the
next day, or even the next...clean it when the job is done.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=40&cat=6&page=1
habbi
residual paint in the thinner will drain down the handle and not collect on
the bristle tips and harden. Also when doing epoxy I just put the brush in a
heavy duty ziplock with acetone, mushed the bristles a bit and left it until
I needed it again. It never dried, just shake out the acetone before using.
"Peggie Hall" <peg...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:BIhAe.75$zw4...@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
barry lawson
"Peggie Hall" <peg...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:BIhAe.75$zw4...@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
>
> I've owned several GOOD paint brushes in assorted sizes for years, for
> both oil and latex paints....they're expensive, but definitely a
> worthwhile investment (so is the best quality paint). If I can't finish
> a job in one "sitting," it's not necessary to clean the brush...the
> important thing is to keep it from drying out. So I just wrap the
> bristles in wet rag (latex) or a rag soaked in paint thinner (oil or
> varnish)--not dripping wet, just damp--and put it in a ziplock till the
> next day, or even the next...clean it when the job is done.
>
buy just leaving in the pot and putting the pot in a plastic bag full of
expired lung air. I always breath into paint tins before sealing since I
read about it here.
Lew Hodgett
>
> expired lung air has worked for me to keep a brush for a few days, sometimes
> buy just leaving in the pot and putting the pot in a plastic bag full of
> expired lung air. I always breath into paint tins before sealing since I
> read about it here.
Next timw try propane from a torch.
It is heavier than air thus driving out the air in the can.
Just don't be smoking or have an open flame around when you do it<G>.
Lew
William R. Watt
I've also used the same paint brushes over and over for years.
They can be wrapped in plastic and left overnight.
To start cleaning I wipe on newspaper, then squeeze between newspaper.
Water based brushes are just cleaned in the sink under running water. I
press them on the bottom of the sink to squeeze out the paint and hold
them upside down under the tap to get the water right up into the base
while massaging the bristles.
Paint thinner is dribbled onto the bristles of oil based brushes held
upside down a few drops at a time, to load the brush, then the bristles
are massaged. The brush is wiped on newspaper.
All brushes are cleaned and wiped dry with a rag. The rag is worked in and
around the bristles to clean and dry the interior of the bistles as well
as the outer surface. It's important to get right down to the base of the
brush, but not hard enough to spread the bristles permanantly. If the
brush is stiff I use a fork to separate the bristles.
The brushes are all stored togehter in a plastic bag.
I read that natural hair brushes should not be used with water based paint
because the water swells the hairs. I don't make a distincion for small
fast jobs, but for big jobs where the brush will be wet for a long time
I tend to stick with nylon bristles for water based paint.
Naturally I buy only the cheapest brushes but they last when taken
care of.
--
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Pete C
wrote:
>
>
Hi,
I found that a pressure washer with the nozzle at a low angle pointing
away from the handle works quite well.
cheers,
Pete.
Lew Hodgett
> I found that a pressure washer with the nozzle at a low angle pointing
> away from the handle works quite well.
I like it, thank you.
Lew
John Schultz
the cited author.]
In article <r7hld1h14mo0mhjcf...@4ax.com>,
pete...@gmail.com says...
> On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 19:19:13 GMT, Paul Oman <in...@epoxyproducts.com>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >I recently purchased a very expensive paint brush (hoping it would paint
> >the boat for me!)
> >
> >Anyway, I realized I don't really know how to clean a paint brush....
> >
> >I dip it in solvent a few times and use a 'brush spinner' - but don't
> >really know if I am doing it right. No big deal with cheap brushes, but
> >the $ ones need to last a while.
I have found that the best way to clean oil paint brushes is a lot of
small (2 - 3 oz.) rinses with solvent. Pour off the solvent into a
holding jar after each rinse. Use a brush comb with metal teeth to work
paint solids out of the heel of the brush when rinsing. Repeat as
necessary until the solvent rinses out clear. Spin dry. Use a brush
conditioner to keep the bristles in good shape. Put in its cardboard
keeper to protect the bristles.