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long drill bits?
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sruyle
Sep 22, 2001, 10:29:59 PM9/22/01
to
I am looking for some very long drill bits. I need to drill through
a sternpost and keel, about 42". Can I buy a bit that will give me
a nice straight hole, or would I do better to weld a shaft onto a
bradpoint or forstner bit?
a sternpost and keel, about 42". Can I buy a bit that will give me
a nice straight hole, or would I do better to weld a shaft onto a
bradpoint or forstner bit?
thanks for any input.
Steve
Gary Zwissler
Sep 23, 2001, 12:45:55 AM9/23/01
to
It all depends on how big of hole you need to bore. If its a 2" hole for a
stern tube, then use a Milwaukee hole saw with sufficient extensions to get
the job done. If its over 3/8" use the common extensions available at Home
Depot. If its a smaller hole, buy some straight rod, flatten out on end,
grind to a triangle point, then sharpen the sides into cutting edges. Try to
mimic the design of a spade bit. I've done this for some really long 3/16"
holes (~28"). You have to run the drill motor really slow to avoid creating
a wobble that will make the bit go off course. Good luck
stern tube, then use a Milwaukee hole saw with sufficient extensions to get
the job done. If its over 3/8" use the common extensions available at Home
Depot. If its a smaller hole, buy some straight rod, flatten out on end,
grind to a triangle point, then sharpen the sides into cutting edges. Try to
mimic the design of a spade bit. I've done this for some really long 3/16"
holes (~28"). You have to run the drill motor really slow to avoid creating
a wobble that will make the bit go off course. Good luck
sruyle <steve...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b4a6da2f.01092...@posting.google.com...
Tom Bloomer
Sep 23, 2001, 6:46:42 AM9/23/01
to
In the old days, those kind of holes were made with an auger bit with a
welded-on extension using a hand powered drill (brace 'n bit). Also helps
to setup a jig to keep the bit straight. Auger bit needs to be driven slow
to allow the chips to clear. Now you can kick this around in the group for
a few days, but far as I know that's still the way it's done and for good
reasons:
welded-on extension using a hand powered drill (brace 'n bit). Also helps
to setup a jig to keep the bit straight. Auger bit needs to be driven slow
to allow the chips to clear. Now you can kick this around in the group for
a few days, but far as I know that's still the way it's done and for good
reasons:
1. Any bit style other than a auger will not be able to clear chips in a
hole that deep
you will constantly be pulling the bit all the way out to clear the
chips.
2. Using a power drill to drill a hole that deep and you have a very high
risk of
breaking the bit off inside the hole. Then what ya gonna do?
If you are using a jig with a brace 'n bit and an auger style bit, it helps
to remove the center point from the bit once the hole is started. In a
really deep hole, you will find that the bit will tend to wander with the
grain following its nose. If you want the bit to maintain the direction set
by the jig, you have to knock that little point off.
--
Tom Bloomer
Hartly, DE
"sruyle" <steve...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b4a6da2f.01092...@posting.google.com...
sruyle
Sep 23, 2001, 8:50:01 AM9/23/01
to
"Tom Bloomer" <bloomer@/"<NoSpam>"/snip.net> wrote in message news:<tqrf8p6...@corp.supernews.com>...
> In the old days, those kind of holes were made with an auger bit with a
> welded-on extension using a hand powered drill (brace 'n bit). Also helps
> to setup a jig to keep the bit straight. Auger bit needs to be driven slow
> to allow the chips to clear. Now you can kick this around in the group for
> a few days, but far as I know that's still the way it's done and for good
> reasons:
>
> 1. Any bit style other than a auger will not be able to clear chips in a
> hole that deep
> you will constantly be pulling the bit all the way out to clear the
> chips.
> 2. Using a power drill to drill a hole that deep and you have a very high
> risk of
> breaking the bit off inside the hole. Then what ya gonna do?
>
> If you are using a jig with a brace 'n bit and an auger style bit, it helps
> to remove the center point from the bit once the hole is started. In a
> really deep hole, you will find that the bit will tend to wander with the
> grain following its nose. If you want the bit to maintain the direction set
> by the jig, you have to knock that little point off.
>
> --
> Tom Bloomer
> Hartly, DE
> In the old days, those kind of holes were made with an auger bit with a
> welded-on extension using a hand powered drill (brace 'n bit). Also helps
> to setup a jig to keep the bit straight. Auger bit needs to be driven slow
> to allow the chips to clear. Now you can kick this around in the group for
> a few days, but far as I know that's still the way it's done and for good
> reasons:
>
> 1. Any bit style other than a auger will not be able to clear chips in a
> hole that deep
> you will constantly be pulling the bit all the way out to clear the
> chips.
> 2. Using a power drill to drill a hole that deep and you have a very high
> risk of
> breaking the bit off inside the hole. Then what ya gonna do?
>
> If you are using a jig with a brace 'n bit and an auger style bit, it helps
> to remove the center point from the bit once the hole is started. In a
> really deep hole, you will find that the bit will tend to wander with the
> grain following its nose. If you want the bit to maintain the direction set
> by the jig, you have to knock that little point off.
>
> --
> Tom Bloomer
> Hartly, DE
Thanks. My past experience with augers was that they always walked
uphill and to the right. That was my reason for thinking brad point.
This is a 15/32 hole, for a 7/16 rod/bolt. My thought was a 15/32 brad
point on a long 3/8 shaft, and a very slow power drill. yes, pulling
out often to clear the chips.
I have never tried an auger with the point removed. will experiement
with it.
thanks again
steve
Gary Zwissler
Sep 23, 2001, 4:06:18 PM9/23/01
to
Correction - I said hole saw when I should have said auger. Milwaukee has
their own brand but I forget the name for them (Hole Hawg?). Of course a
hole saw would be difficult as it leaves the material in the center of the
hole.
their own brand but I forget the name for them (Hole Hawg?). Of course a
hole saw would be difficult as it leaves the material in the center of the
hole.
Gary
Gary Zwissler <zwis...@home.com> wrote in message
news:7Odr7.21889$6c5.7...@news1.rdc1.sdca.home.com...
Hank Metz
Sep 23, 2001, 10:46:30 AM9/23/01
to
A shipauger bit is made for deep boring jobs like this, to get the best start since the bit will self-guide from the path the flutes
cut, use a simple straight jig from a scrap of hardwood that is bored true on a drill press.
cut, use a simple straight jig from a scrap of hardwood that is bored true on a drill press.
--
Hank Metz
"sruyle" <steve...@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:b4a6da2f.01092...@posting.google.com...
Victorious
Sep 23, 2001, 7:09:17 PM9/23/01
to
Its still the way do it....
got several auger bits (and steel bits) welded to long S/S shanks. They get
used very occasionally, but I would not part with em.
Nor would I part with My hand brace!
I am a lazy sod, so not averse to using power tools, but some jobs are still
best done with man power :)]
got several auger bits (and steel bits) welded to long S/S shanks. They get
used very occasionally, but I would not part with em.
Nor would I part with My hand brace!
I am a lazy sod, so not averse to using power tools, but some jobs are still
best done with man power :)]
www.victorious.co.uk
"Tom Bloomer /snip.net>" <bloomer@/"<NoSpam> wrote in message
news:tqrf8p6...@corp.supernews.com...
Gordon Couger
Sep 24, 2001, 4:30:00 AM9/24/01
to
> In the old days, those kind of holes were made with an auger bit with a
> welded-on extension using a hand powered drill (brace 'n bit). Also helps
> to setup a jig to keep the bit straight. Auger bit needs to be driven
slow
> to allow the chips to clear. Now you can kick this around in the group
for
> a few days, but far as I know that's still the way it's done and for good
> reasons:
>
> 1. Any bit style other than a auger will not be able to clear chips in a
> hole that deep
> you will constantly be pulling the bit all the way out to clear the
> chips.
> 2. Using a power drill to drill a hole that deep and you have a very high
> risk of
> breaking the bit off inside the hole. Then what ya gonna do?
>
> If you are using a jig with a brace 'n bit and an auger style bit, it
helps
> to remove the center point from the bit once the hole is started. In a
> really deep hole, you will find that the bit will tend to wander with the
> grain following its nose. If you want the bit to maintain the direction
set
> by the jig, you have to knock that little point off.
>
If you are going to add your own extension put a small nut on below where> welded-on extension using a hand powered drill (brace 'n bit). Also helps
> to setup a jig to keep the bit straight. Auger bit needs to be driven
slow
> to allow the chips to clear. Now you can kick this around in the group
for
> a few days, but far as I know that's still the way it's done and for good
> reasons:
>
> 1. Any bit style other than a auger will not be able to clear chips in a
> hole that deep
> you will constantly be pulling the bit all the way out to clear the
> chips.
> 2. Using a power drill to drill a hole that deep and you have a very high
> risk of
> breaking the bit off inside the hole. Then what ya gonna do?
>
> If you are using a jig with a brace 'n bit and an auger style bit, it
helps
> to remove the center point from the bit once the hole is started. In a
> really deep hole, you will find that the bit will tend to wander with the
> grain following its nose. If you want the bit to maintain the direction
set
> by the jig, you have to knock that little point off.
>
you add the extension and make the shank above the nut the weakest point on
the bit so it breaks there.
Then you can take a deep socket with a hole drilled in the side and wire
hook going in the hole so you can use the socket to go over the nut on the
bit and back it out.
Plan for accidents and it is a lot easier to recover.
--
Gordon
Gordon Couger
Stillwater, OK
www.couger.com/gcouger
Gordon Couger
Sep 24, 2001, 4:35:31 AM9/24/01
to
<Dave Fleming> wrote in message
news:nq1sqtko3f6vrujrj...@4ax.com...
> :::I am looking for some very long drill bits. I need to drill through
> WL Fullers' web site, use Google to find it.
> Deep hole boring as practiced in the yards I worked at I posted to the
> Woodenboat Forums.
> Never saw a Hole Saw used for that purpose usually pilot hole was
> drilled with standard Jobbers type metal boring drill with cutting
> edges modified for wood boring. Then a BAREFOOT auger was used.
> Barefoot augers have no screw and their cutting edges are just a bit
> different that Screw point augers. Though in a pinch a Screw auger was
> modified by removing the screw tip. Screw tip has a tendency to follow
> the soft grain in the wood and before you know it you could be looking
> at the bit coming out the side of the post/deadwood/keel/stem!
> No matter what auger used it was continuously withdrawn from time to
> time to remove chip buildup. The auger types I am referring to do not
> have a solid center, ala Irwin or Russell Jennings, they are a single
> continuous spiral and will definitely bind in the hole if not
> withdrawn to clear chips.
> Extensions were welded on to achieve necessary depths with machine
> shop doing the welding usually using lengths of drill rod and Eutectic
> type welding rod and putting 3 flats on end for Jacobs Chuck of drill
> motor.
> Air drills were preferred as the control was much better than electric
> motor drills.
> But I realize not too many folks are going to have access to a big
> compressor or Air Drill. So the slowest RPM electric motor drill you
> can find and a good jig setup to get you going straight.
> Don't use Forstner bits but rather Multi-spur Bits if that is all you
> can find and remember to withdraw the bit more often as there is no
> place for those chips to go.
> If you wish the whole posting on deep hole boring contact me off list
> and I will e-mail it to you.
>
You could make a bit that had a hollow shank and used air pressure to blow
the chips out. Making a two fluted auger bit with no screw or a replicable
screw would not be a difficult job if you have access to a lathe and band
saw. A mill would speed things up but a file will get it done.
Gordon
DLewis0163
Sep 25, 2001, 10:39:39 AM9/25/01
to
I suggest you contact US Industrial Cutting Tools of Greenville NC
1-252-757-1890. They have been supplying the boatbuilding industry for years
and supplied me with long shank bits, augers, shaft extensions, etc for my
project. Worth a call. Talk to Nancy or Jim.
Don
1-252-757-1890. They have been supplying the boatbuilding industry for years
and supplied me with long shank bits, augers, shaft extensions, etc for my
project. Worth a call. Talk to Nancy or Jim.
Don
sruyle
Sep 25, 2001, 8:42:20 PM9/25/01
to
Thank you all very much for your advice and insight.
You have been most helpful.
You have been most helpful.
Steve
rich a.
Sep 25, 2001, 9:04:16 PM9/25/01
to
I've seen 3-4 foot long bits at electrical supply establishments.......I
supposed they are used to drill through several studs to run electrical
wires??
supposed they are used to drill through several studs to run electrical
wires??
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