Anyone out there familiar with this sort of scope in this craft or a
similar one and how to resolve this elegantly with a minimum of
disruption to existing moulding?
I built a system in a 40 ft. boat (which is undoubtedly different). I
fabricated a fiberglass sump which contained the waste pump and routed
the waste line to the sink drain. To save space in the sump I used an
air pressure bilge pump switch to activate the pump.
Glued the sump to the floor of the Head compartment.
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
My experience with the usual float switches for bilge pumps has not
been good - every one I ever installed failed. I came across the air
pressure switches which are a diaphragm operated switch connected by a
hose to a small plastic cup that mounts in the bilge. As water in the
bilge rises so does pressure in the diaphragm operated switch. I've
had these installed for years without failure.
I epoxied the sump into the floor in the Head with a couple of layers
of glass tape to reinforce the joint. No problems with the joint in
something like 6 years and we spend about half our time on the boat.
The sump contains a small Rule pump that connects to a fiberglass tube
epoxied into the sump, which in turn connects to a hose to the sink
drain. The pump wires lead through a hole in the side of the sump and
are sealed with 3M 5200. Never has a leak.
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
This is what I've got in my boat
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26832|319659&id=680799
There is a flush thru hull in a molded in recess in the head floor and a
hose that leads to the drain fixture under a different section of the deck
which has a hatch board.
>I am sussing out how to fit a shower in my Hunter Horizon 26 TK. I have
Scuttle it for the insurance and buy something with everything you
want already there.I think they can hang you for barretry so don't get
caught.
Casady