One of my woodworking teachers from years ago taught me, "do to the back,
what you do to the front", i.e.: apply the same coating to both sides of a
piece of wood. I've operated under this rule of thumb for years. The only
time I've had problem was when I didn't follow it (and that was when I
glassed the front side with polyester and left the backside uncoated). I
don't know if this rule of thumb applies to your situation (are you glassing
the outside?), and perhaps it may not apply to the new technologies, but if
it were me I'd follow the old rule.
Gary
Dan Bollinger <danbol...@home.com> wrote in message
news:NCS%3.26694$m64.9...@news.rdc1.il.home.com...
> I'm in the design phase for a 20' river boat. I'd like to use Greenwood's
> CCA treated 'Select Boat Panel' (it's kiln dried). I'd like to use this
> plywood for the entire boat including bulkheads, hull and deck. I plan to
> build the boat using epoxy to bond the panels and reinforce the joints with
> epoxy fillets. If I go this route, can I eliminate the plywood
> encapsulation step? Dan
Dan,
Go over to www.proboat.com get the email address and ask them about
getting the back issues on treated plywood and using plywood in 'glass
boats. Think what you probably want to do is build a plywood "core" and
then glass over it- done correctly this gets you a very strong, well
built "fiberglass" boat. Stich/glue the core (treated plywood) then
glass inside and out, finish with sprayed gelcoat or urethane paint. No
molds.
The big upside of this is the resale-ability of a fg boat. The downside
is most boats built this way use polyester or vinyl ester resin.
Getting back to your question on using treated ply and just taping it
together and maybe giving it a couple of coats of epoxy without glass
or just taping and then painting without any epoxy or glass----NoWay!
In a year or two it would be a pile of checked plywood, hell Ive seen
fir plywood check right thru epoxy and 6oz. cloth. Probably the only
plywood you can tape together and then paint is the imported mahagony
stuff. That stuff is expensive but you get what you pay for. See Harbor
Sales or Noah's.
Gary Zwissler <zwis...@home.com> wrote in message
news:nHX%3.2194$%5.3...@news1.rdc1.sdca.home.com...
> Dan,
>
> One of my woodworking teachers from years ago taught me, "do to the back,
> what you do to the front", i.e.: apply the same coating to both sides of a
> piece of wood. I've operated under this rule of thumb for years. The
only
> time I've had problem was when I didn't follow it (and that was when I
> glassed the front side with polyester and left the backside uncoated). I
> don't know if this rule of thumb applies to your situation (are you
glassing
> the outside?), and perhaps it may not apply to the new technologies, but
if
> it were me I'd follow the old rule.
>
> Gary
>
>
> Dan Bollinger <danbol...@home.com> wrote in message
> news:NCS%3.26694$m64.9...@news.rdc1.il.home.com...
mkpauls <leadb...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:271119991839133655%leadb...@hotmail.com...
> In article <NCS%3.26694$m64.9...@news.rdc1.il.home.com>, Dan
> Bollinger <danbol...@home.com> wrote:
>
> > I'm in the design phase for a 20' river boat. I'd like to use
Greenwood's
> > CCA treated 'Select Boat Panel' (it's kiln dried). I'd like to use
this
> > plywood for the entire boat including bulkheads, hull and deck. I plan
to
> > build the boat using epoxy to bond the panels and reinforce the joints
with
> > epoxy fillets. If I go this route, can I eliminate the plywood
> > encapsulation step? Dan