Regards,
TA
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
An epoxy primer will work for sure. Sand the old epoxy with a medium
scotchbrite pad to get rid of any oils it may have on the surface from its
curing or bleeding of ingredients out to the surface, and get some from
www.rotdoctor.com. Since you have a non-porous surface, you will get easily a
thousand square feet per gallon coverage, so it should not take much. Put it
on one day, and the enamel paint (porch-and-deck enamel) the next.
good luck.
fishallnight wrote:
--
Steve Smith smi...@smithandcompany.org
www.woodrestoration.com
www.fiveyearclear.com
www.smithandcompany.org
> Hi all, I am building a small pirogue and am trying to keep it pretty
cheap
> yet somewhat durable. I have the thing almost ready to paint. I have epoxy
> on the bottom and about 4" up the sides. I read that porch paint is a
pretty
> durable finish for such a boat and still reasonably priced. My question
is:
> how should I prepare the epoxy to accept the primer, what type primer
should
> I use, and what type of paint, latex or oil? Great info on the group,
> thanks in advance for any help. If you reply to email, please reply to
> fishal...@hotmail.com
>
Hi, I finished my pirogue by cleaning and scuff sanding the cured epoxy
surface, then followed with a polyurethane (alkalyd) Porch & Deck paint. I
did not use a primer. It worked well. The finish has held up, with the only
touch-ups required on the bottom (due to dragging, beaching, etc). I just
finished a small skiff, prepping the epoxy in the same manner and using a
latex primer, followed by a semi gloss latex (100% acrylic) exterior paint.
This finish seems to be slightly softer than the polyurethane, but was
easier to apply. It seems to have finished well, but I have not used the
boat long enough for a comparison, so the jury is still out. Many people
swear by latex for boats that don't live in the water (and a few for boats
that do), and the price is right. For the price and the drying speed, and
for a craft this small, having to touch up the paint in spots once or twice
a year is no biggie. A quart of each color (i used a lighter inside, darker
out) was sufficient for a 16 ft pirogue 2 coats.
Rhett Davis
rave...@gate.net
I have never seen porch and floor in other than battleship gray, tobacco brown
and deep red. It used to have a heavy lead content. That's why it usually
comes in the traditional lead gray and red lead colors.
LDavis wrote:
--
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there
of) at: http://www.mindspring.com/~gashmore
BUT, latex cures very slowly. It dries to the touch quickly, but it
stays rather soft for several weeks, so I wouldn't use latex if you
want to paint and launch. If you can paint it and let it sit until it
gets hard ... took mine 5 weeks after putting on three coats ... then
latex is fine. Figure on touching it up a bit more often than an oil
based paint.
To launch quickly, use an alkyd enamel (if you can find one -- they
are getting rare here in California due to smog regs, I guess). The
exterior, OIL BASED paints that you see in the home center are alkyd
enamels. So are a lot of the so-called "one part polyurethane" paints
in the chandlery that cost more per quart than the gallon oil based
paints in the home centers. Use an appropriate waterbased primer
under it (find a brand that specifies a latex primer as being
acceptable -- Home Depot has one -- and you won't have to worry about
the oil paint never curing because of the interaction with uncured
amines in the epoxy.) Or do a "paint adhesion test" on a small area
(paint the stuff on, let it dry fully, then score it in a cross hatch
pattern with a razor blade and put scotch tape over it. Burnish the
scotch tape down and rip it off. If any paint is on the scotch tape,
you have a compatibility problem with the oil based paint.)
On Fri, 28 Jul 2000 03:06:10 GMT, "LDavis"
<ldav...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>I have been looking at that porch and floor paint for a few days now
>thinking it would do to paint the bottom of the Pirateer I have just coated
>in epoxy. But, I can only find one color locally, battleship gray. Then
>again I don't have anything against that color, but I prefer something else.
>About those latex paints, you mean just plain exterior 100% acrylic latex?
>My goodness, all of this means I will be able to have my boat in the water
>in about two more weeks.
>This board is saving me a lot of money and work.
>
>
Frank Hagan
fha...@vcnet.com
Building my Weekender Sailboat
http://www.vcnet.com/~fhagan/weekender.htm
LDavis <ldav...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:CM6g5.737$ZL5....@bgtnsc07-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
I painted my cheapo luan/epoxy kayak with latex house paint 8
years ago..Its just starting to need another coat.
I found a snappy Grand Banks Beige by interlux that has a real nice gloss
and some of your basic white that is well, white just like it says on the
can..
I bet you could buy a cheap can and set it on the shelf for a year and still
have no trouble with the paint...
See if your local marine store has any clearance paint you might be able to
save some dollars on...
I am all for saving a buck but your spending $65.- er $100.- bucks a gallon
on epoxy. Why not drop another twenty bucks for good marine paint...
You may even be able to find a shop that will sell you recently open left
over cans of good marine paint that they would normally leave laying around
the shop until they have to haul it to the local hazardous waist facility.
We have hazardous waste facility that sorts out all the good stuff and
offers it up "FREE" to those willing to use it. Under the condition that
they bring back the unused portions to be disposed of properly.
I have found unopened cans of marine paint and west system epoxy. Considered
myself lucky.
A neighbor wanted to paint the inside of his pole barn so he picked up five
different unopened cans of latex white. Mixed them all together in a six
gallon plastic bucket for uniform color. Painted the whole place for the
cost of the best roller cover he could buy.
Sincerely : Keith A. Lahteine
P.S. : I've even painted fiberglass boats with the, "Z-Spar", but the biggest
requirement is proper preparation . They even sell a wipe on prep. liquid which
is supposed to soften the resin so it will accept paint easily . Although this
may work okay I still like to sand before painting as a little insurance .
"Keith A. Lahteine" <audi...@netsense.net> wrote in message
news:398DA343...@netsense.net...