removing black wood stain?
William R. Watt
produced when the finish wears off, the wood gets wet, and turns black.
I've tried a couple applications of a mild clorine bleach solution with
some lightening of the stain. I'm considering strengthening this to a
50/50 solution. Two other remdies I'm considering are peroxide and oxalic
acid. According to my home handyman reference library oxalic acid is good
for removing stains on oak caused by iron.
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Brian Mahaney
news:ap672i$3ka$1...@freenet9.carleton.ca...
You don't mention whether it actually is oak or not. I happen to have a
copy of Finishing: Methods of Work (Jon Richey, ed.) sitting on the desk
beside me. It says that a 20% solution of phosphoric acid should bleach out
black water stains from oak. It also says to use TSP or bicarbonate of soda
solution to neutralize the acid once you are finished. Never tried it, but
thought it might be helpful.
Brian
Glenn Ashmore
removing black stain on most woods.
William R. Watt wrote:
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Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com
Brian
black on other woods too. I've got Lauan with black stains and also Hemlock
with the same black stains...both were stored side by side here in Sunny
(haha) Oregon...
Brian
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"Brian Mahaney" <bmah...@erinet.com> wrote in message
news:3db6c3e0$0$17647$4c5e...@news.erinet.com...
sailor
satisfactory - finally replaced the teak with new - otherwise it looked like
crap. It actually goes a long way into/trhu the wood and can't be sanded off -
tried that too.
Frank Hagan
chlorine bleach isn't as strong as oxalic acid, but you might try it
at its household concentration of 5% before going for the oxalic acid.
If the household stuff seems to be working, but you'd like it a bit
stronger, go for pool chlorine (the same sodium hypochlorite, but in a
10 or 12% solution). Both of these are easier to handle (and cheaper)
than the two-part "wood bleach" kits made of oxalic acid.
There's a tendency to "pickle" the oak with the stronger solutions,
which can be countered with either staining or "fuming". Fuming is
hard to do on a boat (it involves putting the oak in a chamber with a
strong ammonia solution in the chamber, to allow the fumes to give the
oak that golden brown color).
On 23 Oct 2002 13:09:38 GMT, ag...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (William R.
Watt) wrote:
>looking for ways of cleaning black stain from wood. this is the stain
>produced when the finish wears off, the wood gets wet, and turns black.
>I've tried a couple applications of a mild clorine bleach solution with
>some lightening of the stain. I'm considering strengthening this to a
>50/50 solution. Two other remdies I'm considering are peroxide and oxalic
>acid. According to my home handyman reference library oxalic acid is good
>for removing stains on oak caused by iron.
- - -
http://www.messing-about.com
Resources for the Boat Builder, Renovator and Small Boat Skipper
Brian Mahaney
I opened my mailbox shortly after I posted this reply. I found the latest
issue of Wooden Boat there and found that it contains an article covering
various bleaches and when to use them.
Brian
Jack
Rodney Myrvaagnes
of the tannins in the oak. If that is what has happened, there may be
no fungus at all.
Brian Mahaney
Jack <Ja...@noknownaddress.com> wrote in message
news:EyUt9.7$0R2...@read1.cgocable.net...
So far I've only skimmed the article, but here is a quote referring to a
before-and-after photo of a piece of teak:
"The author prefers Te-Ka for working with teak. This piece before washing
showed weathering and staining. After stripping, treatment, and two coats
of varnish, the piece is rejuvenated. The manufacturer cautions against
using this product for any other species of wood; an experiment on weathered
Honduras mahogany turned the wood black." (Wooden Boat, #169, p31)
The article says that Te-Ka Wood Cleaner is a two-part product consisting of
sodium hydroxide and phosphoric acid.
Brian
Jack
"Brian Mahaney" <bmah...@erinet.com> wrote in message
news:3db825f3$0$1449$4c5e...@news.erinet.com...
William R. Watt
the situation involves an ancient canoe paddle of classic design found at
a church rummage sale for $1.00 Canadian (about 64 cents US). several
coats of flaking white paint were scraped off with a pocket knife. soft
varnish and soft wood underneath were scraped down with pieces of broken
glass. too soft at that point for sandpaper. followed by drying then
sanding. what is left is a mottled stained paddle which I want to lighten
as much as possible before varnishing the blade and oiling the shaft.
unfortuately they will heighten the contrast between the dark and
light wood. probably have to live with a paddle of considerable character.
judging by the convoluted grain I'd say the wood is ash, a popular wood
for canoe paddles in olden times giving rise to the paddling cry upon
entering fast water of "put the ash to 'er". the paddle has a narrow
beavertail blade and a small knob at the top, close to cree style. it has
not lost its spring. very nice. quite rare.
Brian Mahaney
If possible, post a picture. Maybe a before and after. I'd like to see how
it turns out.
Brian
William R. Watt
>
> If possible, post a picture. Maybe a before and after. I'd like to see how
> it turns out.
would have to upgrade 386SX MS-DOS 2400 baud home computer. great for
email and newsgroups. dread dealing with MS-Windows. am able to view
Internet photos at public library. let library deal with MS-Windows. from
time to time photos of a small boatlike creation go to
www.duckworksmagazine.com. if I send more will be sure to pose paddle
in one. :)
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Fred the Red Shirt
> thank you for the information.
>
> the situation involves an ancient canoe paddle of classic design found at
> what is left is a mottled stained paddle which I want to lighten
> as much as possible before varnishing the blade and oiling the shaft.
> unfortuately they will heighten the contrast between the dark and
> light wood. probably have to live with a paddle of considerable character.
>
Wood that has streaks of black or other colors in it due to fungus,
but which is not yet rotten is called spalted wood. Spalted wood
is prized by woodturners, and folks making small decorative boxes
and such. They'll rub logs with horsemanure and bury them in
leaves and all sorts of crazy stuff trying to make wood spalt.
So just tell folks it's a spalted ash paddle and be proud of it.
One thing though, the spores for fungi that attack wood are hard
to kill. Kiln drying won't kill then and it's hard to penetrate
the wood deeply enough with a funguscide to so the trick. But
the fungus goes dormant when the moisture content of the wood
drops below 20% or thereabouts. So make sure the paddle is
good and dry before you finish it, seal it well, and keep it
sealed and it should last.
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FF
last
Frank Hagan
2002 issue, number 169. There is an extensive article on bleaching
wood, including step by step instructions on using oxalic acid to
remove black wood stains in white oak. Too much to recap here, but
well worth the price of the magazine for the original poster. If you
can't find it in the bookstore, they can order it from you. If you
can't get it ordered, check at http://www.woodenboat.com for
information on buying a single copy.
On 28 Oct 2002 05:54:50 -0800, fredf...@spamcop.net (Fred the Red
Shirt) wrote:
- - -
William R. Watt
I'll wander over and take a look.
Frank Hagan (fsh...@ev1.net) writes:
> I just got my new issue of Wooden Boat Magazine, the November/December
> 2002 issue, number 169. There is an extensive article on bleaching
> wood, including step by step instructions on using oxalic acid to
> remove black wood stains in white oak. Too much to recap here, but
> well worth the price of the magazine for the original poster. If you
> can't find it in the bookstore, they can order it from you. If you
> can't get it ordered, check at http://www.woodenboat.com for
> information on buying a single copy.
--
William R. Watt
on a couple of coats and let it soak in, then stuck the paddle in a solar
oven (ie between the glass storm door and the wood inside door on the
south side of the house on a sunny day) to accelerate the process.