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TalcumPowder-Epoxy

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John Ramsay

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Jul 13, 2001, 2:58:56 AM7/13/01
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Someone suggested using talcum powder to thicken epoxy a while back.
Anyone actually tried it? It's certainly a lot cheaper than wood flour
or pellets and I have to use thickened epoxy soon.

Thanks.

Glenn Ashmore

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Jul 13, 2001, 5:34:51 AM7/13/01
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I only use wood flour for fillets and filler on wood that will be finished
bright. For that I use sanding dust from the wood I am using so it is
basically free. It is more of an extender than a thickner.

Talc makes a very smooth putty. It is a bit easier to sand but it is not as
strong as fumed silica. . It cost about 1/6 as much as silica but
requires about 7 times as much to get the same consistancy so cost is not
really a factor between the two. If it is a big project talc will add a
significant amount of weight.

"John Ramsay" <jra...@mergetel.com> wrote in message
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Tom Bloomer

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Jul 13, 2001, 6:44:51 AM7/13/01
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The other day while doing a little fabrication in the shop, I came into the
house and asked my wife for some baby powder (scented talc) . . . to thicken
some epoxy. She followed me back out to the shop to see if I was loosing my
mind ;-)

Tom Bloomer
Hartly, DE

"Glenn Ashmore" <ru...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
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Dan Bollinger

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Jul 13, 2001, 9:08:08 AM7/13/01
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Talc is a common additive in filled plastics. It is used in epoxy,
polyester and nylon formulas. It is the primary filler in plastic auto body
filler. It has a high density, contributes to compression strength, but not
to tensile strength. It sands well. I think it is hydroscopic so don't use
it for a fairing compound additive. Dan

--
Dan


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arbarnhart

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Jul 13, 2001, 9:57:52 AM7/13/01
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I used it not long ago for a minor repair in my wood canoe (a mast step
thwart ripped out, taking a layer of ply at each end). I was on vacation and
wanted to keep using the canoe for paddling, so I used some of the double
syringe epoxy from the hardware store (that claimed to be marine) and baby
powder. It did a fine job. I would not use it in bulk as a primary material
in a big project; as Glenn mentioned the cost savings are not what they
first appear to be and there is the weight to consider. I also read that
lime (the cheap stuff you spread on your lawn) does a good job but sands
lousy.

-Andy

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arbarnhart

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Jul 13, 2001, 10:04:16 AM7/13/01
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But isn't it used in high build primers specifically formulated for final
fairing of boat hulls?

"Dan Bollinger" <danbol...@home.com> wrote in message
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Ken and Clara

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Jul 13, 2001, 10:37:03 AM7/13/01
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Talc is definitely hydroscopic and can cause problems when it absorbs
moisture. I have added it to my cosmetic fillers for years to improve
spreading and sanding qualities. But I am now paying the price. Above or
below the waterline it will compromise your hard work.

Rich M

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Jul 13, 2001, 2:00:31 PM7/13/01
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I've used West System 403 micro fiber filler and it works very well with
epoxy. It adds strength and sands well. It's not too expensive and a
little goes a long way. Be fore warned - it is a severe lung irritant
and must be used with caution. Always wear a sanding respirator when
mixing or sanding.

Rich M

arbarnhart

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Jul 13, 2001, 4:27:50 PM7/13/01
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What problems has it caused for you?

Once it is sanded and painted, water should not be much of an issue. Even
before it is, water beads on the hardened mixture.

"Ken and Clara" <kru...@megabits.net> wrote in message
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Glenn Ashmore

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Jul 13, 2001, 3:30:05 PM7/13/01
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I tried an experiment with lime. It took a LOT to get any thickening at all
so the result was very heavy and sanded like 50 year old concrete. Aside
from being cheap, hard and white it has all the worst properties for an
epoxy addative.


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arbarnhart

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Jul 13, 2001, 10:25:06 PM7/13/01
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The reference to it I read was talking about using it in joints rather than
fillets. In that context, a little might go further and sanding would be
less important. According to the article, a join of wood to wood using
straight epoxy was sigificantly weaker than a join using epoxy with lime or
talc in it. I am still toiling away at little boats barely capable of
tending your cruiser and the next one I may do "pure" glued lap ply, so
joint strength will be a bigger issue to me than filling and sanding, plus
quantities will be small. So I may try some of the alternatives.

-Andy

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David Carnell

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Jul 14, 2001, 7:55:47 AM7/14/01
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It is good. It is quite sandable, strong, and somewhat thixotropic.
Private brand baby powders are a cheap source.

Dan Bollinger

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Jul 14, 2001, 9:25:25 AM7/14/01
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I believe most fairing compounds us glass micro-balloons and cab-o-sil. If
we were talking about plastic auto-body this would be called 'lite.'
Anybody in the autobody business will tell you not to drive around a car
with exposed talc-filled bondo unless you have a primer coat. I was told it
was hydroscopic.

-- Dan


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Nick White

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Jul 14, 2001, 5:27:00 PM7/14/01
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On Sat, 14 Jul 2001 11:55:47 GMT, David Carnell <davec...@att.net>
wrote something
......and in reply I say!:

PMFJJI

The thixotropic part interests me. Many fillers make the glue thick,
but will not really "hang" at all until it is too thick to use easily.
How does it compare with say, CaboSil or MBallons for thixotropicity
(??)

My building consisted of using pre-mixed epoxies (EpiGlue etc) so I
have never really worked with them in the way of experimenting with
fillers etc. EpiGlue is very gel-like and will really stay in a lump
unless it's a quite warm day, untgil you start them moving
(thixotropic! <G>). Others are not as good. I have tried ones that
were stiff, and some that were runny. So I have always wondered how
the real gel was best achieved

TIA


Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music


(please remove ns from my header email address to reply)
....damn spam


!!
<")
_/ )
( )
_//- \__/


Dan Bollinger

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Jul 14, 2001, 6:18:46 PM7/14/01
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It is not nearly as good as Cab-O-Sil which is the premier thixo other than
some very specialized gels. Add enough Cab and it will 'peak' just like
cake frosting, a consistency like grease or peanut butter.

--
Dan


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arbarnhart

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Jul 14, 2001, 7:36:10 PM7/14/01
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I am not sure it is, but a couple of people have posted that it is. If it
is, does it matter? Wood flour obviously soaks up water and is a widely used
filler. Just to make sure we are all on the same page, the poster was asking
about thickening epoxy - in other words making a slurry. This would be
painted at the very least for UV protection, so it should not get wet much
if at all. What if it does get wet? Will it swell? Pass water through?

Take this scenario:
I had a mast step thwart rip out of a wood canoe and take the top lamination
of ply from the sideboard. I decided sailing wasn't working out, so I just
repaired the tear out by putting a patch about 2" x 3/4" that is maybe 1/8"
deep, sanded and painted it. If water gets to it, will it swell up to 3/16"?
Will water pass through it? Will it soften up? I think not in all cases. I
will have to mix a small batch, let it dry and soak the resulting mass to
see what happens.

-Andy

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arbarnhart

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Jul 14, 2001, 10:19:02 PM7/14/01
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Have you tried talc?
It does this also. I am not saying it is as good or better, but I have used
it in a vertical (upright) repair and it was like peanut buter; I could have
"peaked" it like frosting.

"Dan Bollinger" <danbol...@home.com> wrote in message

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Dan Bollinger

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Jul 15, 2001, 9:07:58 AM7/15/01
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That's a good point. Clearly, there are no problems with wood/epoxy combo.
We know that polyester/talc combo is hygroscopic (my new word for the
week!). But, epoxy/talc may be just fine!

And, in the long run, it does matter if the composite material is
hygroscopic.

--
Dan


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Dan Bollinger

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Jul 15, 2001, 9:11:12 AM7/15/01
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Yes, I've tried high loadings of talc. It gets so damned heavy! I guess
I'd call it peanut butter. While high loadings of Cab is more like
(lightweight) frosting.

--
Dan


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Paul Oman

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Jul 15, 2001, 5:42:44 PM7/15/01
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> Hello everyone. Interesting thread.

We sell epoxies and thickeners, etc. So can offer a bit of insider advise
(well, sort of).

Yes, the best seems to be fumed silica (of which cab-o-sil is a brand name).
Lots of flavors of fumed silica. Some mix with water, so do not (both look the
time). suggest you test yours! (stuff we sell does not). Use fumed silica for
thickening, microspheres for easy sanding (they thicken, but act like ball
bearings - easy to sag), and micro-fibers for internal strength (we sell all
three, plus a yacht mix blend of all three). For small fixes I tell callers to
just use talc (baby powder). For something larger than a blister or two, use
the fumed silica. Usually 2 parts fumed silica to 1 part epoxy is about the
right starting point.

Better still, we have just discovered and have started selling, some fast
setting epoxy gel. Much cheaper and easier than buying the epoxy and the
thickener and thickening yourself. Only complaint we've had is fast pot life
and fast cure. Will probably have another vendor's pre thickened marine epoxy
in stock in 2-3 weeks.

paul

>
> >


--
PAUL OMAN
Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.
offering: Multi-Vendor Epoxy Solutions
48 Wildwood Drive - Pittsfield, NH 03263
603-435-7199 FAX 603-435-7182
HOURS: 10-5 Mon-Thur Eastern Time
VISA or MasterCard Accepted
EMAIL: in...@epoxyproducts.com
http://www.epoxyproducts.com

VIEW OFFICES: http://www.picturetrail.com/p.oman/289271
PRODUCTS/PRICES: http://www.epoxyproducts4u.com
FAQ: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/25points4u.html
BOATING: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html


Nick White

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Jul 16, 2001, 8:34:13 AM7/16/01
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On Sun, 15 Jul 2001 13:11:12 GMT, "Dan Bollinger"
<danbol...@home.com> wrote something
......and in reply I say!:

Thanks for this argument chaps <G>

I too find talc becomes stiff before it will really sit up high, being
simply thick, not thixotropic, whereas a thixotrpoic mix will still
move easily.

Ken and Clara

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Jul 16, 2001, 9:10:16 AM7/16/01
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Usually forms little bubbles under the paint when exposed to moisture for
long periods. Areas that were simply bonded and coated with epoxy and
cabosil do not show the same problem. I used to think I was pretty clever
adding talc to my q-cell/cabosil/epoxy fairing compound to keep the
sandpaper from loading. Well I'm not so smart afterall.

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Lew Hodgett

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Jul 16, 2001, 9:15:15 PM7/16/01
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RE: Subject

A total waste of resources, good epoxy and precious time.


--
Lew
S/A: Challenge (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for pictures
There are no problems, only varying degrees of challenging opportunity


jeandg

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Aug 1, 2001, 11:54:07 PM8/1/01
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I don't think using baby powder is a good idea, it may contain some kind of
lanolin , kind of a oily product , to protect baby skin. It better to use
some calcium carbonate, I think the brand name is Snow White. The industry
use it in the fabrication of bathroom sink , imitation of marble.,< It is
very cheap and also it have the propriety of protecting the resin again the
moisture, some boatbuider use it in small quantity in the resine .


Glenn Ashmore wrote in message ...

David Carnell

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Aug 2, 2001, 9:02:50 AM8/2/01
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Calcium carbonate is limestone and sands like a rock. Baby powder lists only
talc and fragrance as its ingredients. It sands pretty easily.

Dan Bollinger

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Aug 2, 2001, 8:00:50 PM8/2/01
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> Some baby powders are based on starch. Be careful.

Right you are, AND starch is a resin additive, too! I wouldn't recommend it
for boats, though.

>
> igor, who has a 3 mo old baby and lots of epoxy

Really? I've not heard of THAT 'Modest Proposal', baby filled epoxy.
Hmmm....

;) Dan

Nick White

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Aug 4, 2001, 6:41:22 PM8/4/01
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On Fri, 03 Aug 2001 00:00:50 GMT, "Dan Bollinger"

<danbol...@home.com> wrote something
......and in reply I say!:

They _sand_ well.....I hear, of course.....\

>
>Really? I've not heard of THAT 'Modest Proposal', baby filled epoxy.
>Hmmm....
>
>;) Dan
>
>
>
>
>

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