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Paint problems - will not dry!

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as...@my-dejanews.com

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May 19, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/19/99
to
I just finished my Bolger's Rubens Nymph - my first boat. It looks
great, but the paint does not want to fully dry! It is not tacky, but
it is soft. I used oil based exterior (Ace's Royal house paint) paint
on top of Interlux epoxy.

I have heard it can take a long time to dry if it is humid, but it was
quite dry for the first 3 days after painting (now its rainy - 3 more
days. My questions are :

Have I screwed up and need to scrap it off and try again (I hope not!)?
Is there a way to dry it - maybe with a heater or hairdryer?
Is there anything I can paint over it (clear) to harden it?
Should I just wait it out?

I am really pleased with the way it looks so I hope I can salvage the
paint job, I am really anxious to try it out.

Thanks in advance!


--== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
---Share what you know. Learn what you don't.---

Peter Schumacher

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May 20, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/20/99
to

as...@my-dejanews.com schreef:

> I just finished my Bolger's Rubens Nymph - my first boat. It looks
> great, but the paint does not want to fully dry! It is not tacky, but
> it is soft. I used oil based exterior (Ace's Royal house paint) paint
> on top of Interlux epoxy.
>

I haven't got experience but what I'm told I can tell here. I investigated
this because I'm about to paint my rebuilt 23' coldmolded sailboat which is
also sealed with epoxy (West).People told me that painting with a
conventional paint on top of epoxy can lead to these problems. The cause
seems to be that the epoxy is not letting through the solvents while the
solvents can escape from the outer surface. This results in encapsulated
solvents in the paint layer peventing the paint to fully harden. The best
advice seems to be to wait a little longer but as far as I know you can get
bonding problems (epoxy/paint) later on. To prevent this there are several
intermediate primers on the market which also will give you a better
bonding between the finish and the epoxy. Also it's possible to use some
two part paints directly on epoxy.

Regards
Peter

jaxxon

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May 20, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/20/99
to as...@my-dejanews.com
as...@my-dejanews.com wrote:
>
> I just finished my Bolger's Rubens Nymph - my first boat. It looks
> great, but the paint does not want to fully dry! It is not tacky, but
> it is soft. I used oil based exterior (Ace's Royal house paint) paint
> on top of Interlux epoxy.
>
> I have heard it can take a long time to dry if it is humid, but it was
> quite dry for the first 3 days after painting (now its rainy - 3 more
> days. My questions are :
>
> Have I screwed up and need to scrap it off and try again (I hope not!)?
> Is there a way to dry it - maybe with a heater or hairdryer?
> Is there anything I can paint over it (clear) to harden it?
> Should I just wait it out?
>
> I am really pleased with the way it looks so I hope I can salvage the
> paint job, I am really anxious to try it out.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> --== Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ ==--
> ---Share what you know. Learn what you don't.---

I have experienced similar problems when using oil based paint over
epoxy. In hind sight it is easy for me to say that you should always
test a small area before painting the ENTIRE GODDAMN BOAT.
The paint will eventually dry. but it will not adhere well to the
surface and tend to peel. Strip it off,Sand the hull, repaint with
Interlux Brightside Polyurethane Enamel.

as...@my-dejanews.com

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May 21, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/21/99
to

Thanks Peter - I'm still hoping someone might have an idea for
salvaging the paint job, but I realize I might be scrapping. Or I might
just use it and see what happens, I guess I can always scrap later!

Thanks
gary

In article <374450DA...@bart.nl>,
Peter Schumacher <schu...@bart.nl> wrote:
>
>
> as...@my-dejanews.com schreef:


>
> > I just finished my Bolger's Rubens Nymph - my first boat. It looks
> > great, but the paint does not want to fully dry! It is not tacky,
but
> > it is soft. I used oil based exterior (Ace's Royal house paint)
paint
> > on top of Interlux epoxy.
> >
>

> I haven't got experience but what I'm told I can tell here. I
investigated
> this because I'm about to paint my rebuilt 23' coldmolded sailboat
which is
> also sealed with epoxy (West).People told me that painting with a
> conventional paint on top of epoxy can lead to these problems. The
cause
> seems to be that the epoxy is not letting through the solvents while
the
> solvents can escape from the outer surface. This results in
encapsulated
> solvents in the paint layer peventing the paint to fully harden. The
best
> advice seems to be to wait a little longer but as far as I know you
can get
> bonding problems (epoxy/paint) later on. To prevent this there are
several
> intermediate primers on the market which also will give you a better
> bonding between the finish and the epoxy. Also it's possible to use
some
> two part paints directly on epoxy.
>
> Regards
> Peter
>
>

Gary Zwissler

unread,
May 21, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/21/99
to
This problem keeps coming up every few months. I'd give your paint one
week to dry. Hopefully it will. If it dones dry, then use the boat.
If it gets messed up fix it later. If it doesn't dry, clean up the mess
and follow the steps below.

Since I've just finished painting my boat with Brightsides, and I've
chimed in on this subject several times in the past few weeks, I'll
provide my trial-by-fire, never fail, proven on my own boat, 12 step
process to complete painting success with Interlux Brightsides Enamel:

1. After your last coat of epoxy wash the boat down with TSP,
2. Water wipe down, let dry
3. Final sand
4. Fresh water wipe down, let dry
5. Wipe down with VM&P Naptha
6. Paint (roll, brush, or spray) Interlux 404 primer (high build primer)
NOTE: USE THIS STUFF - do not substitute Home Depot's, or Lowe's,
or Joe's Hardware primer no matter what the guy tells you. How many
boats has the Home Depot guy built and painted? I rest my case.
7. Lightly sand with 150 grit
8. Repeat steps 4 & 5
9. Paint first coat of Brightsides, let dry 24 hours
10. LIGHTLY scuff sand with 220 (too hard and you'll get scratches in
the final paint)
11. Repeat steps 4 & 5
12. Paint final coat of Brightsides
13. Celebrate

Most of the work is in the preparation. Using the correct primer is a
must. DO NOT paint ANY color coat over epoxy without using an
appropriate primer. To do otherwise is a roll of the dice - I've done
it with and without primer, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't,
then you get to start all over again. Face it, PAINTING IS HARD WORK.
Its one activity that produces some of the most noticeable results -
Don't take short cuts. If in doubt, do a test sample first. Don't be
tempted to take short cuts no matter what advice you get.

If you want to substitute another paint besides Brightsides that's fine.
Just use the correct primer and do all the intermediate steps. Even if
I was painting with latex house paint (ala Dave Carnell), I'd probably
still use Interlux 404 primer. Its a wonderful high-build primer and
provides an excellent tie coat for what ever goes on top of it. Good
Luck.

Gary Z.


as...@my-dejanews.com wrote:
>
> I just finished my Bolger's Rubens Nymph - my first boat. It looks
> great, but the paint does not want to fully dry! It is not tacky, but
> it is soft. I used oil based exterior (Ace's Royal house paint) paint
> on top of Interlux epoxy.
>

> I have heard it can take a long time to dry if it is humid, but it was
> quite dry for the first 3 days after painting (now its rainy - 3 more
> days. My questions are :
>
> Have I screwed up and need to scrap it off and try again (I hope not!)?
> Is there a way to dry it - maybe with a heater or hairdryer?
> Is there anything I can paint over it (clear) to harden it?
> Should I just wait it out?
>
> I am really pleased with the way it looks so I hope I can salvage the
> paint job, I am really anxious to try it out.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>

Classic Boatworks of Maine

unread,
May 21, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/21/99
to
We have warned people many times not to use house paint. You go to all this
effort and then put on a coat of cheap paint and then wonder what when
wrong.
You have to use a complete system ... primers are meant to work with
specific top coats and primers are there for just what their name implies.

as...@my-dejanews.com wrote in message <7hvbr4$n4o$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...

KernHend

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May 21, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/21/99
to
>Peter Schumacher <schu...@bart.nl>

>People told me that painting with a
>conventional paint on top of epoxy can lead to these problems. The cause
>seems to be that the epoxy is not letting through the solvents while the
>solvents can escape from the outer surface. This results in encapsulated
>solvents in the paint layer peventing the paint to fully harden.

________________

Then how come if you put the same paint on a glass bottle using a brush and a
stroke to give the same thickness, it dries?

The problem, Peter, is that some amines in some epoxy hardeners poison the
metallic dries in some alkyd based paint systems. But your advice to wait a
few days is sound because an alkyd paint film put on too thick can mimic this
same problem. Almost all one-part "oil based" paints are made with alkyd or
modified alkyd resins and oxidize to dry and polymerize. The metalic dries aid
in this process.

I hate it when I hear of this problem since it is so avoidable. Simply do a
small test patch and see if it dries properly and bonds well. I'll bet I've
said this a hundred times on this NG over the past few years, we say it in our
literature as do Gougeon Brothers and others and still people fall into this
trap.

What a mess if you have to back out of it.

W. Kern Hendricks
System Three Resins, Inc.
P.O. Box 70436
Seattle, WA 98107
Technical Support: 206/782-7976
Orders Only: 800/333-5514
e-mail: sup...@systemthree.com
website: http://www.systemthree.com

Skip Kovacs

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May 21, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/21/99
to
I agree with everything Gary says. On a similar note, I'm currently in the
early stages of building a cold molded sloop which I'd like to finish bright,

at least for the first year. This means topsides varnished over epoxy.
Since I'd just finished building the sliding doors for my boatshed I thought
I'd test a couple of varnishes I had on them -- an old can of Varathane
Spar Polyurethane (thinner based), and a new can of water-based Varathane
Spar Polyurethane. One door was finished with the old stuff, 3 coats, over 2
thick
coats of West System epoxy. The old stuff went on pretty thick, since the
doors
where on saw horses, dried clear and hard as advertised. The water-based was

incredibly thin, so I put on 5-6 coats before I finally said **** it, and
hung them.
It seemed to dry OK between coats, at least as far as clarity was concerned.
But when I hung the door several days later, the finish felt soft and could
be
easily indented with a fingernail. After several weeks it finally hardened,
but
if it had been my boat instead, I would have been bothered by the wait. It's

now 9 months later and both finishes are holding up the same. But I don't
I'll
use either on my boat, and whatever I do use I'll test first on a sample
panel.

Gary Zwissler wrote:

as...@my-dejanews.com

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May 22, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/22/99
to
So NOW you tell me!?

Ok! I learned my lesson - and the real pain is that I wasn't even that
hell bent to save money (I did buy the PREMIUM house paint, after all!)
I just didn't realize the complication of epoxy compared to polyester.
BUt I am chalking it up to experience - it is my first boat (but not my
last) and I wanted to learn the ropes!

Thanks for all the advice, I think I'll go ahead and launch it, be
careful and see how it holds up and go from there....

In article <92728052...@news.remarQ.com>,


"Classic Boatworks of Maine" <toy...@acadia.net> wrote:
> We have warned people many times not to use house paint. You go to
all this
> effort and then put on a coat of cheap paint and then wonder what when
> wrong.
> You have to use a complete system ... primers are meant to work with
> specific top coats and primers are there for just what their name
implies.
>
> as...@my-dejanews.com wrote in message
<7hvbr4$n4o$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...

Norman Messinger

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May 22, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/22/99
to
Maybe your troubles will end in a few weeks if you can wait. I'm using
System Three epoxy and Interlux system coatings on the gaff rigged cutter
I'm building. But for less serious projects I keep a scrap board handy to
test coatings. I have found only one hardware store paint that did not dry
in a reasonable time. However, in that case, I noticed when I went back to
the board for another test that it had dried. Cant say how long it took but
more than a week and less than a month. It seems as hard and tough as other
patches which dried normally. As another has advised, give it some time and
hope for the best.

Good luck. --Norm

P.S.

>BUt I am chalking it up to experience - it is my first boat (but not my
>last)

For sure! So many designs, so little time....


Bruce Nichol

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May 23, 1999, 3:00:00 AM5/23/99
to
Gooday,

At worst, you'll get a coloured slick following you around the lake!!

On Sat, 22 May 1999 14:29:39 GMT, as...@my-dejanews.com wrote:

>So NOW you tell me!?
>
>Ok! I learned my lesson - and the real pain is that I wasn't even that
>hell bent to save money (I did buy the PREMIUM house paint, after all!)
>I just didn't realize the complication of epoxy compared to polyester.

>BUt I am chalking it up to experience - it is my first boat (but not my

Regards,

Bruce Nichol
Talon Computer Services
Melbourne Australia

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