Paint on fiberglass?
Bill Ramsey
I want to paint it. Which type of paint should I use?
Thanks in advance for advice, Bill Ramsey
Dave Carnell
choice).
If the surface is in reasonable condition you won't need primer.
Dave Carnell <http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell>
ncrossen
i used epoxy porch and deck paint for under the waterline and automotive
acrylic enamel for above. the porch paint is so far holding up great, with
only some minor scratches from some pretty rough bangs.
Neil
Bill Ramsey wrote in message <37471...@news4.his.com>...
macnaughton.com
Tom MacNaughton
Naval Architect
http://www.macnaughtongroup.com
ncrossen wrote in message <7ia030$k32$1...@remarQ.com>...
Nick White
>Use 100% acrylic latex exterior house paint-flat, semigloss, or gloss (your
>choice).
>If the surface is in reasonable condition you won't need primer.
>
I have a problem with this. Latex paints, in my experience, do not
bond, but simply form a skin. If they get scratched, they simply pull
away in sheets. They tend not to even "key" properly on rough
surfaces. They form a nice sun-proof surface until scratched or
penetrated.
They are also not waterproof, and provide no water protection for the
underlying material. Unless gelcoated (and even then if the gelcoat is
cracked), fglass will take up water.
I would prime definitely, and there _may_ be primers suitable for
marine use that will "take" with latex paints. I would use them. In
many casees they provide extra water protection.
Nick White HEAD:Hertz Music
nwh...@iinet.net.au
please remove ns from my header email address to reply
....damn spam
!!
<")
_/ )
( )
_//- \__/
Dave Carnell
Sears; now use Lowe's. My plywood skiff has a fiberglass epoxy butt joint that
has held the paint better than the fir plywood for ten years through the
abrasive effects of 100+mph winds of three hurricanes. My Simmons Sea-Skiff
after three years on its latex paint job had bare spots only where there had
been continual fender rubbing.
"Marine" is mostly an excuse for a higher price. In 1951 I discovered marine
oakum was $1/lb; plumbers' oakum, 5 lbs for $1.
Dave Carnell
Pat Ford
<davec...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>"Marine" is mostly an excuse for a higher price. In 1951 I discovered marine
>oakum was $1/lb; plumbers' oakum, 5 lbs for $1.
For someone who purports to have a scientific manner of looking a the
world, you certainly have an astonishing set of beliefs.
The old line "They just put a marine name on it so that they can
charge you double." is one of the corniest canards around.
Those with the least amount of knowledge of boat building and repair
know how wrong it is.
Antique and Classic Boat Society
http://www.acbs.org | My opinions only
World's Largest Classic Boat Organization
Tan
Just look at Marine Ply, the only thing marine is the name. Its neither
waterproof nor rot proof.
Pat Ford <pf...@halcyon.com> wrote in message
news:374af8b7...@news.halcyon.com...
Pat Ford
<NOSPAM...@mbox2.singnet.com.sg> wrote:
?!
Errr, true marine plywood is waterproof-according to appropriate
standards organization.
It is not rot-proof. If you can find a wood which is, I advise you to
use it exclusively.
Wood used in boats will rot; steel used in cars will rust. It is the
responsiblity of the builders to contruct cars and boats so that rot
and rust problems are lessened.
>Looking at prices of things, I think Dave's got something there.
>
>Just look at Marine Ply, the only thing marine is the name. Its neither
>waterproof nor rot proof.
>
>Pat Ford <pf...@halcyon.com> wrote in message
>news:374af8b7...@news.halcyon.com...
>> On Tue, 25 May 1999 07:01:21 -0400, Dave Carnell
>> <davec...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>> >"Marine" is mostly an excuse for a higher price. In 1951 I discovered
>marine
Frank W Gundaker
> Errr, true marine plywood is waterproof-according to appropriate
>standards organization.
>
Marine plywood is not waterproof. It will soak up water just as well
as the next piece of wood.
The glue that holds the plys together is not water soluable
(waterproof), thus making it less likely to become delaminated.
Frank
Nicholas Carey
Marine ply is waterproof, as the term is used in the appropriate
standards, which has to do with whether or not the plywood will
delaminate during certain tests performed on the plywood (eg,
boiling it for a while). The standard(s) also mandate certain
other engineering requirements -- for instance, BS-1088 (?)
doesn't allow any internal voids.
Other factors also figure into plywood engineering: the number of
veneers used, what wood the veneers are made of, the thickness of
the veneers, whether the plywood is lumber-core or veneer-core,
What kind of glue(s) are used.
All these factors (and more) go into engineering a piece of
plywood for specific purposes. Marine plywood is engineered
specifically for one type of use and environment; construction
plywood for another.
There's are reasons marine plywood cost much more than ordinary
construction plywood. Not the least of which is that materials
and labor costs are much higher. And the engineering costs must
be amortised over a much smaller base.
Nicholas
--
Frank W Gundaker
I stand by my original statement. Marine plywood is not waterproof.
The glues used do not let the plys of wood delaminate when the wood is
saturated. Marine plywood will get just as waterlogged as any other
piece of wood and sink. The plys may not come apart, but the plywood
is not waterproof.
Waterproof = no water on the inside
I will admit that the interior plys may be more water resistant if the
end grain is sealed in some way due to the barrier created by the
glue.
No matter how much you engineer wood it will still soak up water.
If you do find some waterproof wood please let everyone know about it
as we would all like to save the money spent to keep water out of the
wood on our wooden boats. :)
Frank
Nicholas Carey
You've got one definition of waterproof. Unfortunately [for you]
the standards bodys that define what marine plywood define it
differently. Their definition is "does not delaminate"; yours
appears to be "does not take up water." Nobody has *ever* said
[in this thread] that marine ply doesn't take up water. If they
have, please post the citation.
--
Tan
Its not about Marine Plywood specifications. Its about using the word
Marine to jack up prices.
Tan
Marine=$$$
Nicholas Carey <nca...@harlequin.com> wrote in message >
Frank W Gundaker
>On Thu, 27 May 1999 19:48:13 GMT, annf...@mindspring.com (Frank
>W Gundaker) wrote:
>
>> I stand by my original statement. Marine plywood is not waterproof.
>> The glues used do not let the plys of wood delaminate when the wood is
>> saturated. Marine plywood will get just as waterlogged as any other
>> piece of wood and sink. The plys may not come apart, but the plywood
>> is not waterproof.
>> Waterproof = no water on the inside
>> I will admit that the interior plys may be more water resistant if the
>> end grain is sealed in some way due to the barrier created by the
>> glue.
>> No matter how much you engineer wood it will still soak up water.
>> If you do find some waterproof wood please let everyone know about it
>> as we would all like to save the money spent to keep water out of the
>> wood on our wooden boats. :)
>
>You've got one definition of waterproof. Unfortunately [for you]
>the standards bodys that define what marine plywood define it
>differently. Their definition is "does not delaminate"; yours
>appears to be "does not take up water." Nobody has *ever* said
>[in this thread] that marine ply doesn't take up water. If they
>have, please post the citation.
>--
The standards, from what i can read, only state waterproof glue. NOT
waterproof plywood. Thats all I said in my original post.
David Porter
recently painted an almost 30 year old 17 ft f-glass speed boat using
paints from their industrial and maintenance line.
Their tech people recommended their two part acrylic paint if the boat
was going to stay in the water and said anything in their industrial
line would work if the boat was normally out of the water. Since I
trailer the boat I used $25 per gallon Duralux enamel.
I got AAA to use a tow truck to put the boat hull-side up on saw horses
I built (extra wide and extra low) and repaired all the nicks and
scratches with autobody (Bondo) products then sanded the entire hull
with a Black and Decker Mouse before painting. I used a brush because
there was too much masking top-side for the amount of painted area. I
wet sanded 3 times using progressively finer wet/dry paper and got a
finish you can shave in.
I painted the boat and trailer with less than 2 gallons .
I painted most of the interior hull with a non-skid paint from their
same product line.
I'm really pleased with the results ... both appearance and durability.
Any paint I have lost I feel I would have lost no matter what ...
hitting the dock and trailer etc causing scratches and scrapes that
removed the paint at that particular point.
The tech bulletin Im looking at gives their address as 826 W. Main,
Louisville 40202 ... but I bought mine at a local hardware store
Tan
in anything), and waterproof glue, but its not quite cutout for marine
applications as what we would like it to be.
They could have called it "Less Void, Waterproof Glue Plywood". I suppose
we wouldn't pay them very much for this type of plywood.
Tan
Marine=$$$
Ron
To get back to your question. I have used the polyurethane deck paint
from HQ (Home Quarters), it is made for them by Pittsburg paint, about
$15/gal.. I put it on my AL pontoons 3 years ago and it is holding up
well, I like the plastic look. It should work well on fiber glass. But
hurry, HQ seems to have one foot in backruptcy and the other in the
grave.
By the way, a friend of mine owns a local paint store. He was at the
factory of a major paint mfg. while they were running deck enamel down
the line. The line stopped and they change the labels to a marine paint
they were brand labeling for someone else. Same paint, new label. The
difference, 10$/gal.
Now before all you experts flame me, I know that there are things that
are truely "marine" but after many years in industry I also know a lot
of it ain't! The true test of your knowledge is knowing the difference.
Regards,
CRT
Tan
some local makes labelled as yacht paints, all cost about US$100 per gal to
about US$70 for the local makes.
The there's industrial coatings, looking at the label, its also PU, these go
for US40 per 5 litre pack.
Anyone know the difference between "industrial coating" and "yacht" PU's or
are there different types of PU's, I am not referring to quality.
Tan
Ron wrote in message <17869-37...@newsd-111.bryant.webtv.net>...
Pat Ford
wrote:
>Dave Carnell <davec...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
>>Use 100% acrylic latex exterior house paint-flat, semigloss, or gloss (your
>>choice).
>>If the surface is in reasonable condition you won't need primer.
>>
>
>I have a problem with this.
You ain't the only one. Is there a reason that marine paints bear the
name? Just guessing.
Moral to the story: On the internet anyone can be an expert.
Double-check your sources, me included.
Goodchild
choice has been in use for some time now. Most users seem to report very
good results and I have read few accounts of failures. Dave Carnell is a
retired chemist from DuPont and can reasonably be expected to know what
he is talking about. I do not think that it is the internet that has
made Dave Carnell an "expert" but rather many years of education and
real-world experience. Dave wrote a very good article in "Boatbuilder"
Magazine (a fine publication by the way) on this very subject.
There has been some reporting of the bond that latex paint seems to make
with epoxy. Some have reported that the paint has deteriorated on
non-epoxied wood surfaces and not at all on the epoxy-covered ones.
Deteriorated? Yes, as will ALL paint, including the finest marine ones.
I am painting Toad Hall with latex house paint. I'll have a much better
idea of its lasting qualities after the next few years of use.
--
PART FIVE of building TOAD HALL, "The Accommodation"
http://www.anyboat.com/toadhall.htm
For shop and building tips from TOAD HALL
http://catalog.com/bobpone/shopbuilding.htm
For reprints of out-of-print classic nautical books:
http://www.anyboat.com/books/books.htm
Ron
"marine". One is to mark up ($) an industrial coating and the other is
to mark up ($) a consumer paint. Some of this is to cover the special
distribution costs associated with the relatively small private marine
industry, and some is more profit (not a dirty word) simply because the
market will bear it.
There is no magic component in marine paint that is not found in
industrial paints and some of it is just plain paint. The trick is to
know the difference. I know for a fact that the same products are sold
to different markets because I have been in the factory when the labels
were changed. I have been using a one part urethane deck paint at
$15/gal for over three years with good results.
Having said all that, if you don't have the experience to know the
difference or you don't feel comfortable with what you read here, you
should go with the marine label.
Pat Ford
<bbla...@philly.infi.net> wrote:
>The use of latex house paint on boats has been a topic before and the
>choice has been in use for some time now. Most users seem to report very
>good results and I have read few accounts of failures. Dave Carnell is a
>retired chemist from DuPont and can reasonably be expected to know what
>he is talking about. I do not think that it is the internet that has
>made Dave Carnell an "expert" but rather many years of education and
>real-world experience. Dave wrote a very good article in "Boatbuilder"
>Magazine (a fine publication by the way) on this very subject.
Why does experience in the chemical industry make one an expert on
marine finishing?
I doubt if you will get very many persons knowledgeable in the field
that will agree with his favorite nostrums: latex house paint for
boats and dumping antifreeze in your boat to cure rot problems.
>I am painting Toad Hall with latex house paint. I'll have a much better
>idea of its lasting qualities after the next few years of use.
>
Report back at that point. Tell how the latex house paint made your
boat and your years of effort look next to other boats with a good
finish.
Proper boat finishing is a tedious, time consuming job with lots of
sanding and filling. If what you are looking for in a finish a quick
and inexpensive way to put color on a hull regardless of appearance,
go with latex house paint or whatever else suits you. I can garantee
you that your boat will look ridiculous compared to one with a good
paint job.
About thirty years ago, when I was first getting started in boat
restorationg/refinishing business, I was repeatedly frustrated when
someone would come down the dock and recommend, in a loud and
authorative voice, a dubious method to the owner. As often as not the
owner then wanted me to follow some strange method.
I called these guys dock captains. They sailed the length of the docks
prescribing cures for anyone who would listen.
What we have here is a cyber version of the same thing.
Don't believe me-ask, ask, ask.
John Lane
The right view of it is, a boat is a personal thing and one ought to do with
it whatever one wants. It's no fun otherwise. It's no fun when others
pontificate with absolute self-assurance, and in a sanctimonious and
condescending tone, to the rest of us about what is the right way to do
something. That's really what you're doing. I knew a guy a few years ago
who built a steel ketch himself and sailed it around the world, he and his
wife. That boat was painted with plain old cheapo paint, and it looked
kinda rough. But I thought it was beautiful. There are plenty of work
boats along the coast that are painted with house paint, or other cheapo
"non-marine" paints, and they do just fine, and apparently suit their owners
just fine. Makes 'em happy, and who are you to judge that?
I, too, refinish boats, and I have painted quite a few cars, as well. Like
you, I am meticulous and painstaking, a perfectionist to the point of near
mental illness. I have spent over a year perfecting the surfaces of my boat
so that when I do spray it -- with a two part poly, after numerous coats of
epoxy primer sanded with increasingly fine paper -- it will look splendid.
I understand and sympathize with that way of approaching a job. I want my
boat to look like a "proper yacht." But not everyone who messes about in
boats has that perspective, and there is no acceptable principle on earth
that says that they all should. Wander along the shore of some Italian Med
town and look at all the old wooden rowing boats lined up there, with their
colorful paint jobs. Those picturesque scenes are the subject of many a
work of art, and are part of the identity of the region. It's a beautiful
picture. And those boats serve their owners well, I presume. However, many
of them I'm sure are painted with cheap house paints. So what?
And these "dock captains" that you so scorn. . . what's the big deal? I
love marinas and boatyards, partly because of the people that hang out in
them. Who cares if their way of doing things is different from yours? I've
"taken advice" from many, many, many "passers-by" who stopped to watch one
of my restoration projects. Most of that advice was inconsistent with the
way I do things. Much of it was downright weird. But in every single case
I listened politely, nodded that I understood, and thanked the individual
for his kindness in taking a few moments to offer his thoughts, even if I
thought they were dead wrong. That's the human, decent, polite way to deal
with people who are trying to help you -- "dock captains", if you will. And
anyway, it's largely the variety of viewpoints, the many different ways of
doing things, that makes this sport so fun. Ultimately, every man is
responsible for his own actions, and you always take "advice" at your own
risk. If you don't understand that, then . . . well, caveat emptor.
I found your response to this to be a little off-putting. Maybe you didn't
mean it that way. I'm sure you didn't. But take a deep breath next time
before you take such a self-righteous view. This is just for fun, for most
of us, even those of us who take it very seriously. And fun is what you
make it. There's no "right and wrong" way (within reasonable, legal limits,
of course <g>).
Yours,
Mark Lane
Pat Ford wrote in message <37bc2cdc...@news.halcyon.com>...
MS
<mist...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
(snip)
>
>The right view of it is, a boat is a personal thing and one ought to do with
>it whatever one wants. It's no fun otherwise. It's no fun when others
>pontificate with absolute self-assurance, and in a sanctimonious and
>condescending tone, to the rest of us about what is the right way to do
>something.
(more snipping)
Here! Here! Well put, and welcome, too. My husband and I have been
restoring a 42-foot Cheoy Lee Clipper for a few years now, and I can't
tell you how many times we've heard "That's how it's done" or
"everybody does it this way" or "you can't do that." In fact, my
husband sometimes tells me we have to do this or that because
"Practical Sailor says so." I'm just as guilty when I say "but the
guys on the internet say...."
This will be our home and we'll do with it what we want. From the
paint we use to the fabrics we select (oh, how I hate Sunbrella!) this
boat will be the expression of two somewhat contradictory but
never-the-less unique individuals. We'd rather have people look at our
boat and know a little something about the owners, than to know the
shipyard that originally made her.
Hey, go with the house paint. If it gets you back in the water soon
--bravo!
Marce
Rick Morel
>On Thu, 19 Aug 1999 07:59:50 -0400, Goodchild
><bbla...@philly.infi.net> wrote:
>
>>The use of latex house paint on boats has been a topic before and the
>>choice has been in use for some time now. Most users seem to report very
>>good results and I have read few accounts of failures. Dave Carnell is a
>>retired chemist from DuPont and can reasonably be expected to know what
>>he is talking about. I do not think that it is the internet that has
>>made Dave Carnell an "expert" but rather many years of education and
>>real-world experience. Dave wrote a very good article in "Boatbuilder"
>>Magazine (a fine publication by the way) on this very subject.
>
>Why does experience in the chemical industry make one an expert on
>marine finishing?
Maybe he was in the paint division of DuPont?
I've used latex house paint on boats as well as marine paint. I think
I used some leftover oilfield industrial paint once. They all work.
Several have made the point about the work and using this or that
marine paint. I guess it depends on what you want and how much effort,
both for the paint job and the upkeep. If you want a showpiece, then
latex or even the absolute best gee-whiz marine paint, without the
hours and days of prep, ain't gonna' give it to you. If you want a
very good looking paint job when viewed from 25 feet or more, and a
nice, clean look closer, then latex, marine, auto, industrial or any
decent paint will work.
It seems the reason for flat or semi-gloss latex is to "hide" those
imprefections the owner doesn't want to take the time and effort to
sand and fill and sand and sand and sand. I'm one of those owners. I
want a neat, clean, fairly good looking and long lasting finish, but
am not interested in spending my time toweling down the hull everytime
I step aboard, nor sanding and doing touch up every time I take her
out. I'm not knocking the keep-it-looking-like-a-showpiece person,
just saying I'm not one of them.
Rick
Please remove "NOSPAM" from my email address.
* * * * * * * * * * * * **** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Rick Morel * # # # ### ### *
* Morel Research, Ltd. * # # # # # *
* New Iberia, LA * # # # # *
* * # # # # # *
* http://www.morelr.com * # # # ### ### *
* * *
* rmo...@morelr.com * *
* * Keep It Simple Stupid! *
* * * * * * * * * * **** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Pat Ford
<mist...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>You know, Pat, you're doing exactly what you accuse others of doing.
<snips>
I disagree. I said this in my post:
>>Don't believe me-ask, ask, ask.
I am _not_ asking you to believe what I say simply because I said it.
What I am recommending is when one takes on an expensive and time
consuming process like boat refinishing or restoration one should know
what you are doing, and not take the word of the first guy to come
along.
I am totally without pride when it comes to learning how to attack a
problem. I ask everyone that might have knowledge about the problem. I
assemble several opinions. A couple can usually be thrown out as they
are from "out of left field." The rest fall in some kind of spectrum.
I then choose a solution based on my own knowledge and prejudices.
It disturbs me when I see people following advice (mine included!)
without checking it out.
Terry Schell
Pat Ford wrote:
>
> On Thu, 19 Aug 1999 13:18:23 -0400, "John Lane"
> <mist...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> >You know, Pat, you're doing exactly what you accuse others of doing.
> <snips>
> I disagree. I said this in my post:
> >>Don't believe me-ask, ask, ask.
>
> I am _not_ asking you to believe what I say simply because I said it.
> What I am recommending is when one takes on an expensive and time
> consuming process like boat refinishing or restoration one should know
> what you are doing, and not take the word of the first guy to come
> along.
>
> I am totally without pride when it comes to learning how to attack a
> problem. I ask everyone that might have knowledge about the problem. I
> assemble several opinions. A couple can usually be thrown out as they
> are from "out of left field." The rest fall in some kind of spectrum.
>
But you are burdened with great pride regarding vessel appearance. If
one doesn't care what the boat's finish looks like, but just want a
paint to protect it, I don't see a compelling reason to follow the
advice of boat refinishing professionals.
If protection, not appearance, is your primary concern, I am not sure
that using exterior house paint is "out of left field." I don't have
any personal experience using it on boats, but I have talked to a couple
of people who have. It looks bad, but seems to wear/weather very well.
Other than looking dull and textured, has anyone had problems using
exterior/industrial paints on boats?
One advantage is that you don't look like an attractive target to
would-be thieves.
Al Gunther
> If protection, not appearance, is your primary concern, I am not sure
> that using exterior house paint is "out of left field." I don't have
> any personal experience using it on boats, but I have talked to a couple
> of people who have. It looks bad, but seems to wear/weather very well.
> Other than looking dull and textured, has anyone had problems using
> exterior/industrial paints on boats?
>
> One advantage is that you don't look like an attractive target to
> would-be thieves.
Hey, I wonder if anyone has tried building a boat using lath and plaster?
Maybe a brick boat, or how about adobe? I saw a car someone painted with a
brush once. I'm not sure it was house paint but it really stood out.
All jokeing aside, I think Pat had it right on his first post. If a boat
is worth the effort to build, it deserves an appropriate finish and there
is no way house paint is going to provide that. Every year I have to spend
half a day scrubbing the crud off my topsides from the oily film in the
water. (Probably from all those 2-cycle engines on the fishing boats and
PWCs.) But, because I've got a good surface, it does come clean. With
house paint, the only way to get it new looking would be to repaint it.
After a few years, it would be peeling off in ugly strips and gobs.
The same guy who would use house paint would probably keep his boat on a
mooring somewhere to save a few bucks, so no one would see it up close.
Might as well just buy an old fiberglass boat and not have to paint it at
all.
--
Al Gunther, Kingston, WA <---- 47° 48.1'N, 122° 30.0'W
John Abercrombie
>go with latex house paint or whatever else suits you. I can garantee
>you that your boat will look ridiculous compared to one with a good
>paint job.
As so many others have pointed out, it's all a matter of taste (and
effort).
As an example I consider the "50 coats of hand rubbed varnish"-
mahogany runabout school of finishing (Riva, etc) to be a completely
wierd and non-nautical excess, intended only to display the wealth of
the owner who can pay for the huge labour costs, etc...
What's "ridiculous" to one person is important to another, etc.
BTW- I can't imagine house paint performing more poorly than the
Pettit easypoxy primer/topcoat I used on the deck of my boat. It
stains easily and is flaking off after two years.
John
Ron
Porch and Deck paint made by PPg ($15/gal) on an old steel door and left
it out in the back yard for the last four years. It cleans up well and
still looks good. I sprayed the pontoons of my pontoon boat three years
ago and it looks great. I have used it on my 37' Cuttter on small
things inside and out. The locale expert that paints boats for $4000
with Imron (wait a minute, isn't that for cars?) said it would chalk in
a year. Sounded like a self serving statement then and definitely now!
HQ has discontinued their Porch and Deck paint and is now selling what
appears to be the same thing on the PPg label at $18/gal. I just bought
a gal to try.
A question for Dave Carnell or any other chem types;
The HQ paint is called polyurethane on the front label and alkyd resin
is the primary ingredient on the precautions label.
The PPg paint is called a urethane modified "acrylic?" (can is at the
shop) and the precaution label is exactly the same as the HQ brand.
I don't believe this paint is a polyurethane any more than I believe
Easypoxy is epoxy.
How about a short dissertation on what coatings fall into what resin
groups and how they are blended to enhance properties.
Ron
Dave Carnell
A paint can be an epoxy paint with two parts (hardener and resin plus
pigments, etc.) that you mix. Then they react and forma pigmented epoxy
resin coating. Or it can be a paint with some epoxy resin(cured) or other
epoxy compound.
Polyurethanes can be two-part paints, foams, etc. that react on mixing.
Polyurethane glues are another category-a reactive system that uses moisture
in the air as the catalyst to make it cure. Polyurethane resins (cured) can
also be dissolved as part of the resin of a paint or varnish. They are good
products, but not the same as a 2-part paint.
You will note that there are buzzwords, too. Many articles are described as
being made of tough "polymer". "Polymer" replaces "plastic", but means the
same thing without unpleasant connotations from the past.
The best thing to do is to read the label as to ingredients. You don't have
to be strong on chemistry to figure out the differences.
Dave Carnell
Ron
stated before. Is an alkyd resin just a way of saying "synthetic
enamel"? And how does that differ from acrylic?
Thank again.
Ron
Dave Carnell
glycol. They are not acrylics. They are synthetic resins. Many
oil-based finishes are alkyds these days.
Dave
