Connecting a Calorifier to a Ford Dorset

[Nigel]

I have a 4cyl Ford Dorset engine and I want to connect it to the heating
coil in calorifier. I assume the aim is to have the engine cooling water
flowing through the calorifier before it reaches the bowman heat exchanger.

There is, what looks like, a 3/8" bsp plug next to the thermostat housing,
but if I take a feed from here I will effectively bypass the thermostat and
the engine would take ages, to reach it's working temperature, if at all.

If I put 2 tee pieces between the engine and the heat exchanger will the
water actually flow round that loop, the flow and return would be very close
together.

If I put a tee in the flow before the heat exchanger and the return after
it, would I risk significantly bypassing the heat exchanger.

Any ideas, suggestions? I guess the set up is fundamentally the same on any
engine.

[Bruce]

The only boat I had with a hot water heater used the existing
connections on the engine. As I remember it, it did not take an
unusual amount of time to warn up. Apparently a 3/8" connection does
not bypass a sufficient portion of the water pump output to be
noticeable.

See http://www.sailangle.com/articles/details/id/11

for additional information.
--

Cheers,

Bruce

[Nigel]

"Bruce" <brucein...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:lk3pa714kst4tkb9o...@4ax.com...

Thanks Bruce, that chimes with the majority of opinion I've had so I guess I
ought to suck it and see., I'll let you know how it goes



Cheers
Nigel

[Bruce]

In thinking about it you could plumb in a 3/8" valve at the engine
outlet and open it when you wanted to make hot water, in fact it is a
good idea..

I had a electric/calorifier hot water tank, perhaps 20 Ltr capacity
and on a cool Singapore evening I used to run the engine, probably 15
- 20 minutes to get enough water to shower in.

You probably know this but it is a proper calorifier it has an over
temperature/over pressure relief valve in it. Running my 4 cylinder
Perkins engine at say 2,000 RPM for any length of time, say 45 minutes
- 1 hour, would heat the tank enough that the over heat valve would
open and flow water down into the bilge.

--

Cheers,

Bruce

[Nigel]

<snip>

> In thinking about it you could plumb in a 3/8" valve at the engine
> outlet and open it when you wanted to make hot water, in fact it is a
> good idea..
>
> I had a electric/calorifier hot water tank, perhaps 20 Ltr capacity
> and on a cool Singapore evening I used to run the engine, probably 15
> - 20 minutes to get enough water to shower in.
>
> You probably know this but it is a proper calorifier it has an over
> temperature/over pressure relief valve in it. Running my 4 cylinder
> Perkins engine at say 2,000 RPM for any length of time, say 45 minutes
> - 1 hour, would heat the tank enough that the over heat valve would
> open and flow water down into the bilge.
>
> --
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bruce

I had thought of adding valves on both the flow and return, then if I ever
had a problem with the calorifier it wouldn't need to affect the engine.
I might see if I can source a 24v thermostatic valve that would shut off
supply to the calorifier once it had reached temperature.

The set up I currently have is a twin coil, 65lt calorifier with an electric
emersion heater. I have a Reflex diesel heater that runs a couple of
radiators plus the hot water. It takes a while buts works pretty well on a
cold evening, but most times through the summer it puts to much heat into
the cabin to be useful as a water heater.

Cheers
Nigel

[Bruce]

Good Lord, what kind of boat is this? A 65 ltr. hot water tank?

(but more seriously I think valves on inlet and outlet would be a good
idea.)

--

Cheers,

Bruce

[Nigel]

>
> Good Lord, what kind of boat is this? A 65 ltr. hot water tank?
>

<snip>

lol..... she's a Bruce Roberts 53 .. www.jassira.com (website could do
with some work as well :) )

[Bruce]

A lovely boat. I knew a bloke who had one. Bought one as a hollow
shell, in Singapore and spent years doing the interior - then sold it
:-(

--

Cheers,

Bruce

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--
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