Drop Bars for Mtn Bikes (LONG)
Innovative Data Design
There's been a few posts lately about putting drop bars on mtn
bikes (for touring). The following is something that I wrote
for a local club's newsletter (WARNING: It's L O N G).
Drop bars on mountain bikes are pretty rare. I've used them on
mountain bikes for nearly five years. They offer me many more
hand positions, improve my flexibility, and are easier on my upper
body than flat bars. But because mountain bikes generally have
different frame geometry than road bikes, they can be much more
difficult to set up properly with drop bars.
Stems: A properly fitting stem is the heart of a good off-road
drop bar system. Because mountain bike frames are smaller, and
have longer top tubes than road bikes, standard stems (mountain
or road) will usually not work. The ideal off-road drop bar stem
has lots of rise and very little reach. Stems that are too low
and long put you too low and close to the front wheel, sacrificing
both control and comfort. You can get a ballpark figure for a drop
bar stem's rise and reach by reversing your flat bar stem's dimensions.
For example, if your flat bar stem has 5" of reach and 2" of rise,
a drop bar stem would need approximately 5" of rise and 2" of reach.
Salsa makes off-road drop bar stems in two sizes, and will make
custom stems with nearly any dimensions. Ibis Cycles makes the
LD stem especially for use with drop bars; it's available with
different combinations of rise and reach. The smaller Tioga
(TQBone) stems can sometimes be used successfully with drop bars.
And Nitto produced the stem used on the drop bar-equipped 1987
Bridgestone MBQ1.
Some stems donUt use a conventional internal expander and may
require an expander plug or stub for your steerer tube. Also,
make sure you get a stem that fits your handlebars. Most Japanese
bars are 25.4 mm; Modolo and some (higher-quality) Japanese bars
are 26.0 mm, and Cinelli's are 26.4 mm.
Handlebars: Although you can use any drop bar off-road, you're
better off with one specifically designed for off-road use. These
bars are usually heat-treated for strength, and their shapes are
optimized for mountain bike use.
The Nitto DirtDrop (OEM on the '87 Bridgestone MBQ1) most closely
resembles a conventional road bike drop bar. The top portion is
similar to a Cinelli Model 64, and the drops flare to approximately
47 cm. It is heat-treated and has a 26.0 mm center section.
Ibis Cycles' drop bar has a curved top portion similar to Cinelli's
Model 65, with drops approximately 47 cm wide. It too is heat-treated,
and has a 26.0 mm center section.
Wilderness Trail Bikes (WTB) produces the most distinctive drop bar
available. The top portions feature a nearly 45 degree bend, and
the drops themselves flare outwards nearly 30 degrees. These are
heat-treated and have a 26.0 mm center section. These bars are all
between 41 and 42 cm wide at the curve. I've found the Nitto and
Ibis to be good all-around performing bars. The WTB's extreme bends
aren't that comfortable for general use, but their extreme outward
flare makes them excellent for downhill use (better than any flat bar,
in my opinion).
Brake and Shift Levers: Pick brake levers whose reach comfortably
matches your hands and fingers. Although they're somewhat hard to
find, the older SunTour Superbe Pro levers with their smaller-than-average
reach work beautifully. Though aero-type brake levers have pretty
much become standard issue on road bikes, their along-the-bar cable
routing can sometimes produce a cable path that generates too much
friction for smooth braking. Standard (non-aero) brake levers may
offer smoother cable routing. Also, since most frames and drop bar
brake levers aren't equipped with barrel adjusters, pick up some in-line
cable adjusters (try a motorcycle shop if need be).
For shift levers there are several choices. You can run bar-end
shifters. Both indexed and friction models are available: GripShifts
(available for flat bars too), or a WTB adapter that lets you mount a
conventional thumbshifter below that brake lever. This setup allows
you to shift and brake at the same time without having to move your
hand appreciably.
Bits and Pieces: Your stem may or may not have a cable guide/stop.
If so, youUll need to install a headset-mounted stop (available from
Fisher, WTB, or SunTour). You can cover the bars with conventional
handlebar tape. Or, for more padding without too much bulk, cut a
piece of GrabOn foam lengthwise (producing a long half-cylinder).
Place it where your palms contact the bar, then wrap over it with
handlebar tape.
Pros and Cons: Because drop bars are so rare on mountain bikes, you
can't just head to your local shop and try a bike that's equipped with
them. And if you do decide to switch over, you can spend a lot of time
and money doing it right. Is it worth it? For me it is. With drop bars
I feel like I'm riding "inside" the bike and not "on" it. Having more
than one hand position is a godsend. I can use the tops or hoods for
general riding and climbing. And my hands are cradled by the bars' "hooks"
when descending on the drops.
The only situation I've found where drop bars disappoint is cycling in
*extremely* technical terrain (such as trials-type riding). But remember
that cyclocross racers use drop bars almost exclusively. And up until
the seventies, many of the European road races featured sections held
on dirt roads (and no road racer uses flat bars).
Sorry for the length.
Mark Chandler | CIS: 76077,1022 The WELL: idddev
P.O. Box 3207 | {pacbell,hplabs,ucbvax,apple}!well!idddev
Walnut Creek, CA 94598 | idd...@well.sf.ca.us
Keith Erskine
>The ideal off-road drop bar stem has lots of rise and very little reach.
>Stems that are too low and long put you too low and close to the front
>wheel, sacrificing both control and comfort.
>Having more
>than one hand position is a godsend. I can use the tops or hoods for
>general riding and climbing. And my hands are cradled by the bars' "hooks"
>when descending on the drops.
>The only situation I've found where drop bars disappoint is cycling in
>*extremely* technical terrain (such as trials-type riding). But remember
>that cyclocross racers use drop bars almost exclusively. And up until
>the seventies, many of the European road races featured sections held
>on dirt roads (and no road racer uses flat bars).
While it is nice to have different hand positions available with drop
bars on mtn bikes, I think having to put your hands in the drops on
even a mildly technical descent is asking for trouble.
Having to use the drops to brake places your upper body forward and
down low, which makes it very easy to go over the handlebars in a
painful and unsightly face plant.
Using a stem with less reach and more rise as Mark suggested may help
with this, but by the time you position the drops so you can safely
descend in them, the other positions on the hoods and the tops may be
too close in and too high to be effective. I think a better system
positions the upper body down low and forward for climbing and flat
riding, with the upper body shifted to the rear with the brakes accessible
for descending.
Cyclocross racers can use drop bars for the same reason they can use
skinny tires - the courses used in cyclocross do not contain descents
nearly as demanding as those found in a typical mountain bike race.
I've only seen one person at a mountain bike race with drop bars, and
I've never seen a pro mountain bike racer using them, although I've seen
several pros with Scott AT-4's or Onza bar ends.
If someone is going to ride on the road most of the time and do
nothing more demanding than dirt roads, fire trails, and smooth
singletrack then drop bars (and/or a hybrid bike) are a good solution.
If you plan on doing anything more technical, I highly recommend the Scott
AT-4 bars. They offer several hand positions, including a very effective
aero position for the road, a good climbing position, a conventional
position with short reach and brakes available, and a long reach position.
The long reach position allows for better power and aerodynamics, and the
short reach position is good for technical terrain and descents.
It also helps to use a slightly shorter handlebar stem (2-4 cm shorter)
with the AT-4.
>Mark Chandler | CIS: 76077,1022 The WELL: idddev
>----------
more bs from
Keith Erskine
Harry Phinney
> Having to use the drops to brake places your upper body forward and
> down low, which makes it very easy to go over the handlebars in a
> painful and unsightly face plant.
Moving the body forward would indeed increase the chances of going over
the bars, but moving your body down has just the opposite affect.
> Cyclocross racers can use drop bars for the same reason they can use
> skinny tires - the courses used in cyclocross do not contain descents
> nearly as demanding as those found in a typical mountain bike race.
How many cyclocross races have you ridden? While I'll admit that most
don't have descents which are as fast as typical mountain bike events,
they are often every bit as difficult technically .
> I've only seen one person at a mountain bike race with drop bars, and
> I've never seen a pro mountain bike racer using them, although I've seen
> several pros with Scott AT-4's or Onza bar ends.
Pick up the latest issue of VeloNews. Interesting stories and pictures
of Tomac winning with dropped bars. His comment:
"And drop bars make it more exciting for me - it's way scarier."
He's won at least two NORBA Pro-elite races with this setup.
Harry Phinney ha...@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
Keith Erskine
>Keith Erskine writes >
>> Having to use the drops to brake places your upper body forward and
>> down low, which makes it very easy to go over the handlebars in a
>> painful and unsightly face plant.
>Moving the body forward would indeed increase the chances of going over
>the bars, but moving your body down has just the opposite affect.
I should have been more specific. Lowering the body does reduce the
chances of going over the bars, but it *increases* the chance of doing
a face plant after going over. With normal flat mtn bike bars, the
upright position makes it possible to jump over the handlebars and land
on your feet after going over the bars. This is a highly useful pain-saving
technique that I've had to rely on several times. If you're down low in the
drops, I think it would be impossible to jump over the bars during an endo.
>> I've only seen one person at a mountain bike race with drop bars, and
>> I've never seen a pro mountain bike racer using them, although I've seen
>> several pros with Scott AT-4's or Onza bar ends.
>Pick up the latest issue of VeloNews. Interesting stories and pictures
>of Tomac winning with dropped bars. His comment:
>"And drop bars make it more exciting for me - it's way scarier."
>He's won at least two NORBA Pro-elite races with this setup.
Um...er...ah... never mind. I wuz wrong. I guess I will have to subscribe
to Velo News now. If I had received that copy early enough I wouldn't
have embarrassed myself in public. I do agree with Tomac that it's
"way scarier" with drop bars. I tried a mtn bike with drop bars once
and I was terrified while descending.
BTW, trivia quiz: Who was the last finisher in the 1990 Paris-Roubaix?
Answer: John Tomac!!! I don't want to belittle the accomplishment of
just finishing this race, but I'm surprised Tomac didn't do better.
I had read that he was looking forward to Paris-Roubaix since it would
showcase his mountain biking skills. Maybe he sacrificed himself working
for Bauer or maybe he had mechanical difficulties. Maybe he did finish
so he wouldn't be harrassed by his mountain bike buddies for dropping out!
>Harry Phinney ha...@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
Innovative Data Design
Keith Erskine writes:
>I think having to put your hands in the drops on
>even a mildly technical descent is asking for trouble.
>Having to use the drops to brake places your upper body
>forward and down low, which makes it very easy to go
>over the handlebars in a painful and unsightly face plant.
Sure, *if* you're *really* too low & over the front wheel
you can endo with *any* bar (drop or flat). I'll be the
first to admit that the wrong stem with drop-bars off-road
is dangerous. My custom Salsa stem has 6" of rise & 2.5"
of reach & puts me in a safe, comfortable, efficient postion.
>Using a stem with less reach and more rise as Mark suggested
>may help with this, but by the time you position the drops so
>you can safely descend in them, the other positions on the hoods
>and the tops may be too close in and too high to be effective.
My hoods are roughly where my grips would be with flat bars.
I had a Ritchey Hi-Long stem (5" reach, 3" rise) that was a
bit too high, so I based my drops/stem around that. I wanted
positions that were both higher & lower than my flat bars & based
my stem & drop-nbars on that. Yes, the tops here kinda high & close,
but when I need to sit up to open my diaphragm I can.
>Cyclocross racers can use drop bars for the same reason they can
>use skinny tires - the courses used in cyclocross do not contain
>descents nearly as demanding as those found in a typical mountain
>bike race.
I've seen cyclocrossers ride mountain bike races & do just fine.
It the most recent RockHopper I saw a guy on a 'cross bike. This
was *not* an easy course. I saw one (sponsored) woman *walk* part
of the downhills (the 'cross guy didn't).
>I've only seen one person at a mountain bike race with drop bars
>and I've never seen a pro mountain bike racer using them
Hmmm...Charlie Cunningham, Jacquie Phelan, Gavin Chilcott, Dave
McLauglin (sp?), Casey Kunselman (sp?) use or have used drops.
Someone asked on of the top 'cross racers (Natwick?) if he like
drops off-road. He said he'd like to use 'em on his mtn bike,
but his sponsor was down on that. I suspect this is not uncommon.
You've seen the Bridgestonw ads with Pinapple Bob? He was at the
aforementioned RockHopper. Was he on an MB-0? No, on an '87
MB-1 with drops. He blazed.
>If someone is going to ride on the road most of the time and
>do nothing more demanding than dirt roads, fire trails, and
>smooth singletrack then drop bars (and/or a hybrid bike) are a
>good solution.
I ride on the road too. I even run a multipurpose tire on the
rear (CrossRoads II 1.95"). Dirt roads & fire trails are common
around here. They aren't too easy with any bar at 35+ mph. I
do just fine thanks.
Unless you've tried a *properly* setup bike, don't knock 'em.
I'll admit that there are some things that they don't do too
well (trials riding). But *every* bar is a compromise. Besides,
they look cool ;+)
Mark Chandler
idd...@well.sf.ca.us
Roland Aubin
I want to raise my handle bar but i cant. I have unscrewed the bolt
that hold the stem in place and knock on it with no success to free
it(the screw is dry and full of dirt). I was told i may have to take
apart the front section of the bicycle. Is there a better solution
any help pls.
--
Roland Aubin
afs...@cid.aes.doe.ca Environment Canada
(514)620-8587 home Canadian Meteorological Center
(514)421-4648 off. 2121 Trans-Canada
Tom Reingold
afs...@cid.aes.doe.CA (Roland Aubin) writes:
$
$ I want to raise my handle bar but i cant. I have unscrewed the bolt
$ that hold the stem in place and knock on it with no success to free
$ it(the screw is dry and full of dirt). I was told i may have to take
$ apart the front section of the bicycle. Is there a better solution
$ any help pls.
If the bolt hasn't yet gone down from your knocking on it, you must
continue to pursue this. Put a block of wood on top of the bolt (to
protect the rest of the stem) and knock progressively harder with a
hammer. If that doesn't work, use a bigger hammer. You might have a
little better luck by spraying tons of WD-40 down where the bolt is and
also between the stem and steerer tube.
Once you get the bolt knocked down, hold the wheel between your legs
and turn the handlbars side to side to dislodge the stem from the
steerer tube.
--
Tom Reingold
t...@samadams.princeton.edu
rutgers!princeton!samadams!tr
201-577-5814
"Brew strength depends upon the
amount of coffee used." -Black&Decker