135mm Hub In 130mm Frame?
(PeteCresswell)
Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.
Built the wheel.
Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.
Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
the rear stays...
Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?
--
PeteCresswell
sergio
> Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
> the rear stays...
Spread it out wider.
Sergio
Pisa
Tosspot
> Old MTB.
>
> Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.
They're not?
> Built the wheel.
Excellent!
> Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.
Ah....
> Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
> the rear stays...
>
> Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?
I just know I'm going to regret this, but I was looking about myself to recover
from a similar situation which I shall not elaborate further. However;
http://jimlangley.blogspot.com/2007/11/q-cold-setting-frame-to-135mm.html
(PeteCresswell)
>
>I just know I'm going to regret this, but I was looking about myself to recover
>from a similar situation which I shall not elaborate further. However;
>
>http://jimlangley.blogspot.com/2007/11/q-cold-setting-frame-to-135mm.html
Now that you've got me going on this, I see that Sheldon left us
a page on the subject:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
--
PeteCresswell
Mark J.
Note particularly Sheldon's paragraph about merely flexing, or
"springing" the frame, as he puts it. In other words, just flex the
frame a bit and get that wheel in - assuming a steel frame. It's worked
great for me for several years now on my rain bike.
Mark J.
landotter
> Old MTB.
>
> Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.
>
> Built the wheel.
>
> Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.
>
> Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
> the rear stays...
Respace the rear, align the dropouts with a bigass wrench or have your
shop do it with the Park tool.
>
> Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?
You build mtb wheels? [theatrical shock face] Heck--I just rebuilt
B.'s double boinger this afternoon with a set of Deore/WTB/DT wheels I
got for $90 at Pricepoint. The rear DS was at least 100 kgf according
to my ear and the heads were seated perfectly in the flange. Didn't
even touch them up. Wouldda cost double for parts.
*g*
Now if ya want a good 135 spaced 622mm wheel--that's when building is
the only option.
> --
(PeteCresswell)
>Note particularly Sheldon's paragraph about merely flexing, or
>"springing" the frame, as he puts it. In other words, just flex the
>frame a bit and get that wheel in - assuming a steel frame. It's worked
>great for me for several years now on my rain bike.
I can almost "spring" it in - in a nice dry, well-lit garage....
but not quite. Probably not an option in mud/rain/whatever.
But something in Sheldon's page tripped me: "Use a ruler to
measure the distance from the string to the side of the seat tube
where they cross. Take this measurement on both sides, IT SHOULD
BE THE SAME ON EACH SIDE."
I'm getting 39mm on the drive side and 31.5mm on the other side.
Oops....
I've been riding this thing on-and-off since I bought it new in
1983. Can't recall any particularly bad crashes but it's had
it's share of knocks. Also I weigh 200+ and a spinner I am
definitely not.
Seems like three possibilities for the measurement mismatch:
1) Bad measuring
2) Bent frame from whatever
3) It's designed that way
Can I safely eliminate #3?
If so, it seems like triple-check the measurements, then correct
it at the same time as increasing the spacing to 135 ... and then
probably taking it to a shop for the drops tb checked/made
parallel.
--
PeteCresswell
(PeteCresswell)
>You build mtb wheels? [theatrical shock face] Heck--I just rebuilt
>B.'s double boinger this afternoon with a set of Deore/WTB/DT wheels I
>got for $90 at Pricepoint. The rear DS was at least 100 kgf according
>to my ear and the heads were seated perfectly in the flange. Didn't
>even touch them up. Wouldda cost double for parts.
Actually, right after toasting the freewheel, I bought a used
wheel for $15. Works OK, but it's only 30 holes, drilled for
Presta, and getting a tire on/off it is a major hassle - as in 3
tire irons and beau coups bad language. My guess is that it's a
26" road wheel.
So I blew another $30 on a Shimano Deore hub and laced it up to
the original Araya rims - which make tire changing very close to
a bare-hands operation.
$90 per *set*.... I like it.
--
PeteCresswell
landotter
Did your Deore hub need adjustment? Mine surprised me by coming with a
load of grease and properly adjusted cones this time.
>
> $90 per *set*.... I like it.
Crazy isn't it? You can pay twice as much and get gimpier hubs than a
Deore.
AMuzi
Steel bike? Change the frame to 135.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
John Thompson
Steel frame? Just spread the stays and ride it.
Al or carbon? Try to find thinner washers/locknuts or sell the wheel
and build one that fits. A couple millimeters off isn't a big deal, but
it can make changing a flat on the road a PITA, particularly in bad
weather.
--
-John (jo...@os2.dhs.org)
Chalo
>
> PeteCresswell wrote:
> >
> > Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.
> >
> > Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
> > the rear stays...
>
Seconded. I do it all the time.
Use a string or a Park FAG-2 to check your bike's alignment before you
proceed. You could easily wind up with a straighter frame than
before, just as a side benefit.
I used to use special shop tools for frame respacing, but now I just
use a two-by-four in a variation of Sheldon Brown's method. (I do it
in the stand and squeeze the board towards the head tube.)
http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
Remember to align the dropouts after you've gotten the spacing you
want.
Chalo
(PeteCresswell)
>Did your Deore hub need adjustment? Mine surprised me by coming with a
>load of grease and properly adjusted cones this time.
I don't know enough to answer the question. It's
fully-assembled. But, pending use, I don't know how it's aligned
left/right.
--
PeteCresswell
z
I think Landotter is asking if the axle was too tight (a very common
error) or had some play.
DavidR
It is possible to reduce a 135 hub by fitting thinner spacers. It's a couple
of years ago now but I think I found half a mm on the drive side and 2 or
2.5mm on the non-drive side.
AMuzi
If it's a Shimano, most models have a 5mm spacer on the
left. Remove that, adjust hub, trim axle, recenter rim and
you're 130mm.
Jobst Brandt
>>> Old MTB.
>>> Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm. Built the wheel.
>>> Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide. Is there any wiggle room here
>>> - as in thinner washers, bending the rear stays... Or should I
>>> bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?
>> It is possible to reduce a 135 hub by fitting thinner spacers. It's
>> a couple of years ago now but I think I found half a mm on the
>> drive side and 2 or 2.5mm on the non-drive side.
> If it's a Shimano, most models have a 5mm spacer on the left.
> Remove that, adjust hub, trim axle, recenter rim and you're 130mm.
That increases "dis" by 5mm or about 4% of 130mm. There is a reason
for left side spacers... to reduce dish of an otherwise badly off
center wheel. If it has only one sprocket then just get a suitable
track rim for that.
--
Jobst Brandt
DavidR
> DavidR wrote:
>> "(PeteCresswell)" <x...@y.Invalid> wrote
>>> Old MTB.
>>>
>>> Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.
>>>
>>> Built the wheel.
>>>
>>> Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.
>>>
>>> Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
>>> the rear stays...
>>>
>>> Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?
>>
>> It is possible to reduce a 135 hub by fitting thinner spacers. It's a
>> couple of years ago now but I think I found half a mm on the drive side
>> and 2 or 2.5mm on the non-drive side.
>
> If it's a Shimano, most models have a 5mm spacer on the left. Remove that,
> adjust hub, trim axle, recenter rim and you're 130mm.
I'm sure I found some flaw with that otherwise I would had done it. Maybe it
had something to do with keeping the outer dust seal.
AMuzi
>>>> Old MTB.
>>>> Foolishly assumed the rear drops were 135mm.
>>>> Built the wheel.
>>>> Nice wheel, but it's 5mm too wide.
>>>> Is there any wiggle room here - as in thinner washers, bending
>>>> the rear stays...
>>>> Or should I bite the bullet, order another hub, and re-lace?
>> DavidR wrote:
>>> It is possible to reduce a 135 hub by fitting thinner spacers. It's a
>>> couple of years ago now but I think I found half a mm on the drive side
>>> and 2 or 2.5mm on the non-drive side.
> "AMuzi" <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote
>> If it's a Shimano, most models have a 5mm spacer on the left. Remove that,
>> adjust hub, trim axle, recenter rim and you're 130mm.
DavidR wrote:
> I'm sure I found some flaw with that otherwise I would had done it. Maybe it
> had something to do with keeping the outer dust seal.
Item #12 in this drawing:
http://bernd.sluka.de/Fahrrad/Shimano/TM/FH-M737_1994.gif
Most other Shimano cassette products are similar.
(PeteCresswell)
>
>I think Landotter is asking if the axle was too tight (a very common
>error) or had some play.
Seems tb right on the money: rotates easily, no binding... yet no
play.
--
PeteCresswell
DavidR
"AMuzi" <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message
news:hfk40k$uvo$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Ah yes, that must have been it. To keep the dust seal (14), it looks as
though
item 12 needs to stay. I found a thinner 13.