Shimano XT cassette removal
Dennis Gorrie
on it. I noticed the cassette/hub mechanism is loose. I can
grab the cogs, and they wiggle up and down with respect to
the spokes/hub. I'd like to remove it, squirt some oil in the
mechanism, and tighten it if possible, but I have no idea how
to do this. It looks like you remove it using something
similar to a splined freewheel too, because the small cog
has splines on the inside of it.
Any suggestion how to oil this thing and tighten it would be
appreciated.
...Dennis
philip t ganderton
Dennis Gorrie <gor...@hercules.cs.uregina.ca> wrote:
>Hi. I have a Ritchey Ultra, about 6 months old, with Shimano XT
>on it. I noticed the cassette/hub mechanism is loose. I can
>grab the cogs, and they wiggle up and down with respect to
>the spokes/hub. I'd like to remove it, squirt some oil in the
>mechanism, and tighten it if possible, but I have no idea how
>to do this. It looks like you remove it using something
>similar to a splined freewheel too, because the small cog
>has splines on the inside of it.
This statement would indicate that you are not all that familiar with
cassettes, hence I would recomend that you DO NOT ATTEMPT to do this
repair yourself. If the cogs do have a substantial amount of play in
them, the hub does need to be serviced (even though a small amount of play
is within design tollerances and seems beneficial-and remember this is not
a White Industries $250 hub). If you want to know whats going on inside
your rear hub, ask the bike shop techie to let you watch as he pulls it apart.
> >Any suggestion how to oil this
thing and tighten it would be >appreciated.
>
>...Dennis
>
Good luck, and sometimes it's best to let those who know do.
Phil Ganderton, Abq, NM "gan...@polaris.unm.edu"
22-the magic number.
Rodney Brillantes
Dennis,
If the bike is still under warranty, bring it back to the shop where
purchased. Have them do the maintenance on it, sounds like it's due.
If not...
You can purchase a Shimano hyperglide lockring tool. This tool removes and
re-installs the splined lockring that holds cogs on Shimano Hyperglide freehubs.
This tool must be used in conjunction with a sprocket remover or vise to
generate opposing leverage. There are several companies that make this tool,
Shimano, and Park are the two that come to mind. Park goes for about $4-$5,
part number is #PA-FR5. A sprocket remover will run between $5 on up.
You can get more detailed information from a reputable shop (one that you trust
with your business/bike) on how to use the tools.
Good Luck! RABrillantes
David Iwatsuki
|> This [freewheel] tool must be used in conjunction with a sprocket remover
|> or vise to generate opposing leverage. There are several companies that make
|> A sprocket remover will run between $5 on up.
The sprocket-remover mentioned (a.k.a. chain whip) can be home-made. I used
some spare chain links and a piece of aluminum bar stock. Drilled a couple
of holes in the bar and used my chain tool to rivit the chain to it.
Didn't even have to use an HG chain :-)
Net cost was $0, maybe 5 minutes time.
If you want to be even klugier, wrap a length of chain around the cogs and
grab the ends with a ViseGrip. If I was doing work on a freewheel changing
individual sprockets, though, I'd want a pair of real whips instead.
The Park Whip (SR-1) is $12.99 (Colorado Cyclist price).
Nashbar version is $4.75.
I did buy a Pamir HG Cassette Cracker; used it once and put it in the bottom of
my toolbox. If I was on a trip where I needed an emergency tool, it might get
packed in the seat bag, but otherwise it was just too difficult to use...
(For those who haven't seen one: it has a splined end and a hook. You take the
rear wheel off the bike, remove the QR skewer, put the tool on the freewheel,
put the QR back in, install the wheel on the bike so the hook grabs the
chain stay, pedal the crank so the chain torques the cassette and undoes the
lockring, take the wheel off, etc, etc...).
Now I have a question:
When re-installing the lock ring, it looks like there's a torque spec
printed on it: 30 newton-cm? My local shop says they just do it finger tight, plus
a few more clicks. Any thoughts on this?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
David A. Iwatsuki Voice: (508) 898-5064
Hardware Project Manager Fax: (508) 898-5401
Data General Corporation
AViiON Systems Development Internet: d...@kevlar.webo.dg.com
4400 Computer Drive, MS E-211
Westboro, MA 01580 U.S.A.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Matt Bushore
In article <27psk2$5...@hp-col.col.hp.com>, rod...@col.hp.com (Rodney Brillantes) writes:
|>
|> Dennis,
|>
|> If the bike is still under warranty, bring it back to the shop where
|> purchased. Have them do the maintenance on it, sounds like it's due.
|>
No, its normal. The play is between the outside, moving part of the freehub,
and the inside, stationary part (in relation to the hub). I would imagine that play
allows for greater tolerances in the actual freewheeling mechanism (conjecture)
I dont think there are _any_ serviceable parts in the freehub
body. Other than oiling it, and making sure the 10mm bolt holding it on the hug
are tight, there is nothing you can do. It is also important that the lockring
is tight....looseness here usually(?) causes indexing problems.
|> If not...
|> You can purchase a Shimano hyperglide lockring tool. This tool removes and
|> re-installs the splined lockring that holds cogs on Shimano Hyperglide freehubs.
|> This tool must be used in conjunction with a sprocket remover or vise to
|> generate opposing leverage. There are several companies that make this tool,
|> Shimano, and Park are the two that come to mind. Park goes for about $4-$5,
|> part number is #PA-FR5. A sprocket remover will run between $5 on up.
|> You can get more detailed information from a reputable shop (one that you trust
|> with your business/bike) on how to use the tools.
|>
|> Good Luck! RABrillantes
All these tools do is remove the cassette from the freehub body. They cannot
remove normal play from the freehub body, nor can they reverse wear on it.
They do allow you to tighten the bolts in the cassette that sometimes come loose
and allow the cogs to float in relation to each other. They also look cool
sitting in your toolbox or hanging on your workbench :)
--
Matt Bushore
A dog, a car, and a duck walk into a bar......
--
Matt Bushore
Rodney Brillantes
> Now I have a question:
>
> When re-installing the lock ring, it looks like there's a torque spec
> printed on it: 30 newton-cm? My local shop says they just do it finger tight, plus
> a few more clicks. Any thoughts on this?
Here's my $.02 worth...
Your shop sounds correct. Eventually, over time, the torque created by the
pedalling action tightens the whole mechanism...
Matt Bushore
In article <27q4gc$4...@hp-col.col.hp.com>, rod...@col.hp.com (Rodney Brillantes) writes:
|> d...@kevlar.webo.dg.com (David Iwatsuki) writes:
|>
|> > Now I have a question:
|> >
|> > When re-installing the lock ring, it looks like there's a torque spec
|> > printed on it: 30 newton-cm? My local shop says they just do it finger tight, plus
|> > a few more clicks. Any thoughts on this?
One thought: that's bordering on too loose. I guess it depends on how
you define a few clicks. I think the torque is closer to 300 kg-cm...
Usually go finger tight, then around 3/4 turn. I imagine that they say
a 'few clicks' to keep people from over tightening these and ruining things.
|>
|> Here's my $.02 worth...
|>
|> Your shop sounds correct. Eventually, over time, the torque created by the
|> pedalling action tightens the whole mechanism...
This was true of the old, non-Hyperglide cassettes and freewheels
I don't understand anyway for lockring to tighten...there is no way that
the cogs can move it.... telekinesis is unreliable at best.
--
Matt Bushore
So the car says to the duck.....
--
Matt Bushore
Michael Gordon Weaver
not on tightly. This will allow the cogs to move a few millimeters,
mostly in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the wheel.
The cogs ride on the splines of the freehub, so even if the lock
ring is a little loose, there is not much rotational play.
The lock ring has a pretty good locking mechanism, so it should not loosen
in normal use, but it may have been put on loosely the last time it
was off.
The cassette can be removed by removing the lock ring. To remove
the lock ring, you use a splined tool (I got mine through mail
order for around $10 US), and rotate the lock ring to the left.
This requires keeping the cassette from rotating, which may
in turn require a chain-whip if the lock ring is on tight. Once you
have removed the lock ring, the cassette will lift off away from
the freehub.
I remove my cassette a few times a year in order to more easily
clean the cogs. So far, I have not felt the need to service
the freehubs on any of my bikes, so I cannot comment on that.
Peace,
Michael.
Anders Jacob Truelsen
>d...@kevlar.webo.dg.com (David Iwatsuki) writes:
>> Now I have a question:
>>
>> When re-installing the lock ring, it looks like there's a torque spec
>> printed on it: 30 newton-cm? My local shop says they just do it finger tight, plus
>> a few more clicks. Any thoughts on this?
>Your shop sounds correct. Eventually, over time, the torque created by the
>pedalling action tightens the whole mechanism...
Not true !
How could the chain possibly tighten a lock ring it never touches.
The cassette slides onto the body, and the lock ring keeps the cassette
in place.
On older (6 sp. ?) cassettes the smaller cog serves as lock ring, and in this
case it will tighten when pedalling.
--
_~o Anders Truelsen email : leg...@daimi.aau.dk
_-\_<, CS. Dept University of Aarhus phone : +45 89423358
(*)/'(*) 8000 Aarhus C fax : +45 86135725
DENMARK Priv. : +45 86188915
David Iwatsuki
|> |> >
|> |> > When re-installing the lock ring, it looks like there's a torque spec
|> |> > printed on it: 30 newton-cm? My local shop says they just do it finger
|> |> > tight, plus a few more clicks. Any thoughts on this?
|>
|> One thought: that's bordering on too loose. I guess it depends on how
|> you define a few clicks. I think the torque is closer to 300 kg-cm...
|> Usually go finger tight, then around 3/4 turn. I imagine that they say
|> a 'few clicks' to keep people from over tightening these and ruining things.
|>
I took another look at the lock-ring, and it is 300 kg-cm (talk about mixed
units for torque!)
Anyway, that computes out to 21.7 ft-lbs (or should I covert to slug-feet?).
I think the finger-tight plus 3/4 (0.75) turns is simpler. thanks!
--
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