Need a 36-hole rim with a 610 mm ERD to be used with 25 to 28 mm 700c
tires.
Thanks,
Art Harris
Sun CR18.
The Sun M13II has exactly 610mm ERD. It is a little narrower and
lighter than the CR18, even less expensive, and in my opinion it is
prettier.
Chalo
Yes, I've used those in the past (actually a Nashbar branded version
called the S13 made by Sun). I didn't think they were still available,
but I checked and they are. Thanks!
The CR18 might be a good alternative, but a little wider than I'd
prefer.
Art Harris
Those smell like NOS to me. But dang are they cheap on fleabay.
>
> The CR18 might be a good alternative, but a little wider than I'd
> prefer.
I've got the Alex CR18 clones on one bike. (not the wider DM18) They
look quite boxy and muscular, but happily take a narrow 23mm
Vredestein with no drama. A 28mm tire on a CR18 is a near perfect rim/
tire ratio, IMHO.
Depends on what kind of durability you want. CR18 has a little more
meat, but still very light. Maybe one out back and the narrow up
front. Nobody would know if you got both in polish finish.
> On Aug 9, 8:47 am, Art Harris <n...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > I'm looking for a replacement for my ancient Rigida 1320 rims.
> >
> > Need a 36-hole rim with a 610 mm ERD to be used with 25 to 28 mm 700c
> > tires.
>
> Sun CR18.
A few minutes ago I measured a Sun CR18 in two different ways
and got 622 mm, then I remembered it is a ISO 630 mm rim.
Problem solved.
--
Michael Press
that'll work fine with Spoke Extendz.
The nearest LBS has a bunch of them in the polished finish. If
they're NOS (which might well be the case), they're getting blown out
forcefully. They sure don't look shopworn.
If I had known I could get such nice-looking medium-sized shiny rims
when I built my honey's road bike, I would have used M13IIs instead of
quasi-collectible MA2s.
> A 28mm tire on a CR18 is a near perfect rim/tire ratio, IMHO.
Agreed. I have a 28mm tire on a 26mm Sun Rhyno 700c, and it's
acceptable but really not the right size.
Chalo
> > A 28mm tire on a CR18 is a near perfect rim/tire ratio, IMHO.
>
> Agreed. I have a 28mm tire on a 26mm Sun Rhyno 700c, and it's
> acceptable but really not the right size.
The Rhyno/DM18 width rims both seem happy with a 30mm at least--32 is
just about right for a guy my size.
You're right about the Rhyno Lite, which measures 27.5mm outside. The
departed Sun Rhyno, primordial downhill rim and favorite of
tripletists, is heavier but narrower at 26mm, and has thicker
sidewalls to boot. It probably has about the same inside width as the
DM18.
Chalo
>>>> The Sun M13II has exactly 610mm ERD. It is a little narrower and
>>>> lighter than the CR18, even less expensive, and in my opinion it
>>>> is
>>> Yes, I've used those in the past (actually a Nashbar branded >>>
version called the S13 made by Sun). I didn't think they were >>>
still available, but I checked and they are. Thanks!
>> Those smell like NOS to me. But dang are they cheap on fleabay.
Considering how many meanings "NOS" might have, you might be kind
enough to reveal which meaning fits here:
http://www.acronymfinder.com/NOS~2.html
> The nearest LBS has a bunch of them in the polished finish. If
> they're NOS (which might well be the case), they're getting blown
> out forcefully. They sure don't look shopworn.
> If I had known I could get such nice-looking medium-sized shiny rims
> when I built my honey's road bike, I would have used M13IIs instead
> of quasi-collectible MA2s.
>> A 28mm tire on a CR18 is a near perfect rim/tire ratio, IMHO.
> Agreed. I have a 28mm tire on a 26mm Sun Rhyno 700c, and it's
> acceptable but really not the right size.
So what's the upshot? Do you recommend this rim and why?
Jobst Brandt
He means "new old stock", or unused merchandise that has been in
somebody's inventory a long time. It's what you are looking for when
you go looking for MA2s.
> > The nearest LBS has a bunch of them in the polished finish. If
> > they're NOS (which might well be the case), they're getting blown
> > out forcefully. They sure don't look shopworn.
> >
> > If I had known I could get such nice-looking medium-sized shiny rims
> > when I built my honey's road bike, I would have used M13IIs instead
> > of quasi-collectible MA2s.
> >
> >> A 28mm tire on a CR18 is a near perfect rim/tire ratio, IMHO.
> >
> > Agreed. I have a 28mm tire on a 26mm Sun Rhyno 700c, and it's
> > acceptable but really not the right size.
>
> So what's the upshot? Do you recommend this rim and why?
The Sun M13II? I recommend it as a medium-duty road rim for narrow to
medium width tires-- similar to the MA2 in that regard. The Sun CR18
is an excellent all-round rim for medium and wide tires and modestly
heavy loads, comparable to the old Module 3. The Sun Rhyno is no
longer generally available, but it is an excellent heavy-duty rim for
very heavy loads and tires of 30mm or larger width. Mavic never made
a rim of even vaguely comparable strength to that of the Sun Rhyno.
Chalo
http://www.velo-orange.com/vopari.html
It sort of looks like a MA2. Available in both 32h and 36h at a cost
of $50/rim.
http://www.velo-orange.com/vopari.html
From the picture at that URL, I notice that they have no spoke sockets
to support spoke tension, using only eyelets that put all spoke loads
on the inner diameter of the rim, a classic for rim cracking. I can't
imagine why they went to the trouble of making a rim that is destined
for failure. It isn't so much the absolute tension that causes
cracks, but rather the cyclic loading, independent of static tension.
We've seen enough cracked rims that had no sockets to spread spoke
loads over inner and outer rim walls with a large diameter bearing
area on the inner wall.
Jobst Brandt
It's not independent of static tension: it's cyclic loading at a high
average tension which causes cracks.
The cyclic loading is inevitable if you ride the bike, but doesn't cause
a problem if the average tension isn't too high.
> We've seen enough cracked rims that had no sockets to spread spoke
> loads over inner and outer rim walls with a large diameter bearing
> area on the inner wall.
And quite a few cracked rims that _did_ have sockets, although other
things being equal, they may help.
"two-piece, double wall stainless steel eyelets to prevent spoke
nipple pull through rim failure. Both eyelet pieces are stamped from
sheet stainless steel, the upper eyelet piece is cupped shaped, while
the lower eyelet piece takes the form of a hollow rivet. The upper
cupped shaped piece which has an oval seat, is inserted into the spoke
hole from the interior or tire side. The lower piece is set into the
upper cup piece, with the lower piece protruding though the spoke bed
wall. Force is applied to the top of the lower piece so a can flare
the lower piece into a smooth round blossom that holds both eyelet
pieces firmly within the cross-tie and spoke bed walls. The spoke bed
wall one of our production specimens of an MA2 showed a small amount
of distortion from this peening process. The amount of force from the
peening machine was set just a little high."
http://www.bikepro.com/products/rims/mavicroad.shtml
So, a single eyelet is insufficient to prevent cracking because there
is no way to spread spoke loads over inner and outer rim walls?
Thanks.
Rubbish, no eyelets are necessary, they are there to assist with
throughput of high production builders. With custom builds, washers
may be inserted under the nipple head to increase the length of the
outer nipple support by the rim. Oval washers are customary for this
purpose but anything will improve the nipple support. The use of
washers is not necessary on most rims, it becomes obvious when
building if a rim needs to use washers, the rim bed will already be
distorting. Unless there is evidence that the rim needs washers then
it most probably does not. The fitting of eyelets means that the
manufacturer is satisfied that the rim is adequate without washers.
Thickness of the rims inner wall and the nipple bearing diameter are
the important dimensions.
Everyone but Mavic figured out how to make strong single eyelet rims
long long ago.